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neuronz

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About neuronz

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  1. The recent string of records is certainly impressive. However, I think it is also worth mentioning that they circumnavigated the world via Cape of Good Hope twice in the previous years.
  2. I have used Interdeck and it was easy to apply and offered good grip, although the surface remains relatively smooth since the particles are rather small (It is a fine powder actually). However, one thing to keep in mind when considering Interdeck is that it is very difficult to remove since the particles seem to be the same that are used for sandpaper. For the above reason I would rather go with a different solution like Awlgrip Griptex particles sprinkled onto fresh paint. I have yet to try it myself, though. Then there is KiwiGrip, but it seems like people either swear by it or ab
  3. Yes, I believe some of the internals are fabricated from lighter materials to reduce weight down to 2.2kg instead of 2.9kg. I have not weighed our old winches yet, but they have substantial amounts of plastic in them and are hence fairly light. We hope to not gain to much weight with the new winches, but we view the self tailing as an upgrade that is worth a little extra weight.
  4. So we went the Antal route and ordered two ST30.2 in the lighter race version. The delivery time is a bit of a nightmare currently, but it seems that they will finally arrive after almost 8 weeks. If anyone is interested I can post pictures once I get my hands on them.
  5. Cork plugs? Drink a few bottles of wine, cut the plugs in half, trim with a sharp knife if needed and push into the holes. Remove with a wine bottle opener. If you need larger diameters sparkling wine plugs are bigger.
  6. Our mast never had halyard exits installed. Over the years the halyards started eating into the carbon. We have thus decided to add plastic exit inlets. But since they will create some pressure on the mast wall we figured we would add reinforcement patches at the exits as well as seen on most masts nowadays. We removed the paint until we started to hit carbon. Now the carbon surface does not seem to be perfectly smooth, which is why we still have filler/primer between areas of bare carbon. How far should we go with the sanding? We obviously do not want to weaken the mast. On the other hand w
  7. I am not sure if this is original. At least we do not have this on ours. Adjustment is usually done by pressing down on the whole slider. It is always a bit fiddly and we have start looking for something spring loaded. Yours looks well used and worn as well, so this would be my suggestion for the next upgrade.
  8. This reminds me of a 35ft proposal from Spain, which was marketed probably 15 years ago. The concept and interior layout were very similar. It was, before the advent of chines, a somewhat narrower boat, but had fixed an long retractable bowsprits. Unfortunately, I cannot remember the name. It had a proper toilet, though, as the marketing guys had identified this as a crucial piece of equipment for getting the wife's approval.
  9. No, not really. Especially with filament printers you have to test and optimize your print settings (temperature, speed, nozzle size, ...) if you want to achieve a good dimensional accuracy. Otherwise your parts will always differ from your design. Cooling of the parts can also have a huge influence and cause morphing and even cracking between the layers, not dissimilar to metals. Many printers have heated beds and capsules to help with this, but there is always some trial and error involved.
  10. I do not know if this has changed since they introduced elevators to stabilize foiling, but many of the french offshore trimarans had flaps on their central daggerboards. Some dinghy classes like 505 have been using automatic jibing daggerboards for a long time as well. I think the performance difference between the two will be quite small actually. One thing to consider in my opinion is that active control of the jibe or flap angle gives you more options for optimizing the settings compared to an asymmetric board. If you change the immersion of the asymmetric board to change the angle of
  11. Yes, I actually had a template milled similar to what is shown in your lower picture. It worked well, but in my case the profile was very far away from any useful section shape, so I used it mostly to get the rough shape. Afterwards it was normal sanding and filling and checking with the template. It also helped me to have solid leading and trailing edges to use as rails to guide the template. I glued a haved FRP-tube to the leading edge of my profile for this. I suggest to make the template a bit longer chordwise and extend it slightly around the trailing edge.
  12. Boatspeed makes a great tactician.
  13. As far as I know one of the reasons for using an angled board is also a rather large movement of the aerodynamic center of effort between upwind and downwind sail sets. Upwind the COE is more aft and you need the full board area. Downwind with big sails tacked far forward the COE is more forward, but you need less board so it is pulled up to maintain balance
  14. We also found last year in our 8m boat that when sailing doublehanded aggressive stacking makes a huge difference. In our case it was only two bags, a headsail and two spinnakers, but it was worth about 0.2 - 0.3 knots.
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