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About equivocator

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  1. I suspect that the rig is off-center, and leans toward the windward side on the faster tack. Best measure from masthead to sheerline next to the mast on both sides of the boat. then re-tune the rig so it is in tune on both tacks. then mark the main sheet and jib sheets to equalize trim on both tacks and see what you see. Getting the speedo to read equally on both tacks may be a real chore because of the fact that the boat has leeway which effects the flow of water over the impeller. when you do your sailing tests, be wary of wind sheer, which can increase sail pressure on one tack or the other
  2. What Longy and gkny said, sheet is over-eased for the windy conditions, mainsail too. Driver also sailing too deep. Best to keep the pole under-squared and the sheet in a few feet to keep the spinnaker in front of the boat, so the windward luff curl of the spinnaker doesn't heel the boat to windward. Same with keeping the main in a bit in order to maintain heel to the leeward side. Bad ju-ju to lose it to windward like this. Key in this situation is to not ease the spin sheet when the boat heels to windward. Best save would be to ease the starboard spin sheet and collapse the sail, which is li
  3. It's been awhile since I gave this much thought, but things had evolved to the point where everything was rope, no wire anymore.... On the 35-footer I sailed back in the 00s, we used 12-strand for everything that had static loading, which meant the halyards and sheets. Now, I would include the tack line on A-sails in that category. The primary concern was elongation under static loading. For that reason, we used 3/8" (approx 8 mm.) for the jib, main and spinnaker halyards, with cover added in the part that will be handled by the crew. This was before dyneema hit the market, and we used low-str
  4. Don't bother with the float coat, it is bulky, stiff, too warm and ungainly, isn't waterproof, and doesn't fit well under FW gear. Plus it will float up under your arms if you wind up in the water. Lots of experienced sailors like to wear a light-weight jacket like a Patagonia puff-top under FW gear. They are light, not bulky, and breathe well. I wear a Lands End Squall jacket under my FW top, over a Patagonia capilene zip-collar base layer and lightweight fleece second layer. You will need to wear a safety harness at night or in inclement weather, and it is just as easy to wear a safety
  5. OPB, but lots of them over the decades. Nelson 43, Farr 58, Frers 82, Frers 53, SC 70, R/P 50, Peterson 43, etc. Both masthead and frac rigs.
  6. In my experience, #4 and full main is faster and more weatherly than #3 and a reef. Also, easier on the mainsail. Don't forget to use the weather sheet to cross-haul the jib, also. Once the #4 is set, you can reef away, as necessary. Use mast bend to flatten the mainsail, so you can let it twist without flogging.
  7. equivocator


    Solution for leaky boots is a plastic bag over your socks, with rubber bands around your ankle and lower leg. Think grocery store produce section or the bag your newspaper comes in on a rainy day, Works like a charm. I have a pair of poly-coated nylon gaitors from Gill, purchased from their website about a decade ago. They have heavy elastic around the bottom, with a "tie-down" that goes under the sole of your boot, and a shock-cord drawstring around the top. Never used them "in anger," but I think they'd do the job. Haven't seen them lately, though.
  8. Gary Mull also designed 58' Dora III for Lynn Williams of Chicago, and later another 58 footer, the bright orange "Famous NAMIS" ("World's Fastest Orange Ocean Racer") for Phil Watkins of Chicago. NAMIS was a great boat to sail on, and I remember one very windy 100 miler out of Chicago, when we beat the 64' S&S DORA IV boat for boat, to great surprise and jubilation. Later, he designed the 82' IOR Maxi SORCERY for Jake Woods of Los Angeles, who still races the boat. SORCERY won the MEXORC this February. He did not revolutionize yacht design in the way that Doug Peterson did with G
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