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gkny

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Everything posted by gkny

  1. I have tried a few of the copper free paints on the rudder of my boat. Last year, I used ePaint ZO and there was so much grass by the end of the season that I think the active ingredient must be Rogaine. I had better luck with Petit Hydrocoat Eco but by the end of the summer it wasn't as effective as the copper ablative paint on the rest of the hull.
  2. what about multi-wall polycarbonate? https://www.interstateplastics.com/16mm-Polycarbonate-Hurricane-And-Storm-Panel-Full-Sheet-POLCECKSW.php?kitoptionpk=7245&src=adwordspla&thisisforcallrail=1&campaignid=225228743&adgroupid=37851262274&creative=153445283219&matchtype=&network=g&device=c&keyword=sheets-POLCECKSW-kits7245&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI14yGuqOm7wIVAZ2zCh2NEA2UEAQYAiABEgIstvD_BwE&
  3. If you played in a punk band and rode dirt bikes in high school then air cooled are not a problem but.... Has anyone seen attempts to muffle them?
  4. I think that it would be pretty straightforward to add coamings to a j22 for more back support and comfort sitting in the cockpit
  5. Wouldn't it just be easier to get the exact height/length right if you sleeved it. There has to be quite a bit of that mast section available to cut off a certain amount of the bottom and add back the same amount with an internal sleeve.
  6. Fish Reef is for sale!
  7. I don't have a windlass so I switched to a large Fortress. The other thing that I did was to make up a spectra strop with a chain hook on one end and a loop for the bow cleats. When I take up the anchor I can quickly drop the chain hook onto the chain when I am right over the anchor and power over the anchor to break it loose. If I still need to take up a bit more chain by hand I can pull the chain to me and the chain hook is right by my hands. I can just reach forward and drop it 3 or 4 feet farther up on the chain. I haven't tried a chain stopper but this is pretty easy to use if
  8. I did check on some plastic Igus ones and the strength is quite a bit lower. The problem that I am having is that the conductance of these joints isn't something that is specified
  9. gkny

    Bird Repellers

    But what about the osprey?
  10. I just measured for continuity from the body to the bearing that goes on the post and found that even when it was sitting flat on a table. The multi-tester indicated continuity.
  11. I have a boat with an aluminum rudder post and a whitlock steering system with a draglink. There are rod ends on each end of the draglink or rod connecting the pedestal to the rudder quadrant. I bought some stainless steel replacements that had ptfe races supposedly but the bearing is not electrically isolated from the body. I am not sure whether the whitlock replacements are isolated. I have been pretty careful with the electronics at the pedestal but would prefer to have things isolated as well as possible. The rod ends thread onto the rod. Would tefgel on the threads and a nylon w
  12. I had a spin pole that got a significant ding in the side. I cut about a foot of the same tubing and then slotted it lengthwise to make it a little smaller when closed. I slid it in and then riveted it in a couple of places. I don't know what your section looks like but if you could find a piece of the same section could you do the same thing?
  13. Just slap Espo's Charm School on the side and deduct the whole thing.
  14. Could it be rebuilt at a shop that does starters and alternators?
  15. gkny

    clueless

    Maybe the sheet was way too eased and the chute way too far out to windward for the puff
  16. Whether you use new or old holes (assuming original track), they need to be drilled before caulking. I had epoxied and then redrilled the original holes and dry fit the track before I tried to caulk it. When I dry fit it, I masked the desk at the edges of the track. I used the screwdrivers as levers and they allowed me to shift the track very small amounts in very specific locations to be able to line up the bolt that I was inserting. Same idea as the studs but I found that I needed to tweak the adjustment in more than a couple of locations to get all of the bolts located in their holes.
  17. You might consider using shims to help with the install. To install a long curved Genoa track, I cut thin shims and taped them at right angles to the track on the deck. They were just thick enough so that I could lay the track on them and it would not touch the sealant. I had a couple of long screwdrivers that fit through the holes in the deck and track. As I flexed the track I kept it in place with the screwdrivers. I would then insert the bolts in the track in that section and pull a shim or two and tighten the nuts. I then pulled the screwdrivers and flexed the next section,etc.. The
  18. Under the forward thwart there is a vertical support below the mast. At the bottom, drill a 1/4 " hole. Feed a line through the hole and tie a gallon jug on each side. Super light, fast, and cheap. You can still put foam under each thwart as is stock for frost biting.
  19. I redid the rudder bearing on an x boat with an aluminum post. Jeffa has bearings for many of the x boats. Be very careful with wiring in and around the binnacle. The post on my boat had no signs of corrosion or wear
  20. I think that there is a better keel that was designed for it that looked to be Abigail improvement
  21. Is the freeze protection good enough that you can drain the tank but skip the pink stuff?
  22. What about twin-wall polycarbonate for cabinet sliders instead of plexiglass. 6mm twin wall weights about .27 lbs per square foot. I have never worked with it so I am not sure how well it would hold up.
  23. Yes. It works well. I put a small hole in the tubing to allow some air to flow through the shop vac. It keeps the motor from getting too hot
  24. I thought that if you were a really good magician the trick was to make it look like you sawed your assistant in half, boats not so much.
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