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gkny

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Posts posted by gkny

  1. I have tried a few of the copper free paints on the rudder of my boat.  Last year, I used ePaint ZO and there was so much grass by the end of the season that I think the active ingredient must be Rogaine.  I had better luck with Petit Hydrocoat Eco but by the end of the summer it wasn't as effective as the copper ablative paint on the rest of the hull. 

  2. what about multi-wall polycarbonate?

     

    https://www.interstateplastics.com/16mm-Polycarbonate-Hurricane-And-Storm-Panel-Full-Sheet-POLCECKSW.php?kitoptionpk=7245&src=adwordspla&thisisforcallrail=1&campaignid=225228743&adgroupid=37851262274&creative=153445283219&matchtype=&network=g&device=c&keyword=sheets-POLCECKSW-kits7245&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI14yGuqOm7wIVAZ2zCh2NEA2UEAQYAiABEgIstvD_BwE&

  3. I don't have a windlass so I switched to a large Fortress.  The other thing that I did was to make up a spectra strop with a chain hook on one end and a loop for the bow cleats.  When I take up the anchor I can quickly drop the chain hook onto the chain when I am right over the anchor and power over the anchor to break it loose.  If I still need to take up a bit more chain by hand I can pull the chain to me and the chain hook is right by my hands.  I can just reach forward and drop it 3 or 4 feet farther up on the chain.

      I haven't tried a chain stopper but this is pretty easy to use if you are mostly pulling up rope until you get to the chain.

  4. I have a boat with an aluminum rudder post and a whitlock steering system with a draglink.  There are rod ends on each end of the draglink or rod connecting the pedestal to the rudder quadrant.  I bought some stainless steel replacements that had ptfe races supposedly but the bearing is not electrically isolated from the body.  I am not sure whether the whitlock replacements are isolated.  I have been pretty careful with the electronics at the pedestal but would prefer to have things isolated as well as possible.

    The rod ends thread onto the rod.  Would tefgel on the threads and a nylon washer on the locknut that locks the rod bearing work?  I am not worried about corrosion of the rod but a galvanic effect on the rudder post.  I know that I can measure for continuity but I am not sure how reliable such an approach would be over time. 

  5. 1 hour ago, slug zitski said:

    I might be impossible to align  the old deck holes with the new track holes 

    Plugging the old holes with epoxy bog then  shifting the new track clear of the old filled holes is very common 

    the use of several tall studs , three inches tall  taped into the substrate are  commonly used as alignment pins     

    Placement of the caulked track , using these alignment pins is s time , mess saver 

    many workers ... perhaps   three or four are needed 

    Dont use butyl rubber 

     

    Whether you use new or old holes (assuming original track), they need to be drilled before caulking.  I had epoxied and then redrilled the original holes and dry fit the track before I tried to caulk it. When I dry fit it, I masked the desk at the edges of the track.  I used the screwdrivers as levers and they allowed me to shift the track very small amounts in very specific locations to be able to line up the bolt that I was inserting.   Same idea as the studs but I found that I needed to tweak the adjustment in more than a couple of locations to get all of the bolts located in their holes. 

  6. You might consider using shims to help with the install.  To install a long curved Genoa track, I cut thin shims and taped them at right angles to the track on the deck.  They were just thick enough so that I could lay the track on them and it would not touch the sealant.  I had a couple of long screwdrivers that fit through the holes in the deck and track.  As I flexed the track I kept it in place with the screwdrivers.  I would then insert the bolts in the track in that section and pull a shim or two and tighten the nuts.  I then pulled the screwdrivers and flexed the next section,etc.. The shims helped to cut down on the track touching the caulk and spreading it around while I worked sections of the track in place

    • Like 1
  7. On July 16, 2020 at 1:09 PM, Ajax said:

    The Dhow has 2 thwarts. I'm going to put something under both of them. Bags, foam boards, something.  The pour-in foam sounds problematic if one is unskilled in its application and messy to replace when it degrades.  Filling the bow with a floaty bag reduces my cargo carrying capacity. I mean, if the purpose of going ashore doesn't involve bringing stuff back, that's fine.

    I should say that none of this is really a problem on the Chesapeake, I'm thinking of future, longer range cruises. We're really a fan of the Dyer these days and less so of the inflatables.

    Under the forward thwart there is a vertical support below the mast.  At the bottom, drill a 1/4 " hole.  Feed a line through the hole and tie a gallon jug on each side.  Super light, fast, and cheap. You can still put foam under each thwart as is stock for frost biting.

  8. I redid the rudder bearing on an x boat with an aluminum post.  Jeffa has bearings for many of the x boats.  Be very careful with wiring in and around the binnacle. The post on my boat had no signs of corrosion or wear

  9. On June 23, 2020 at 2:02 PM, SASSAFRASS said:

    Has anyone ever tried bagging something with a small shop vac?  Sure it's not the same as full vacuum pump but have wondered if it would be adequate for small odd sized things with thickened epoxy where you weren't concerned with clamping pressure as much as keeping the piece in place.  

    The hot glue is my approach for alot of stuff pretty hard beat but if you aren't quick it can be a PITA with alot of cleanup.

    Yes. It works well.  I put a small hole in the tubing to allow some air to flow through the shop vac.  It keeps the motor from getting too hot

  10. On June 20, 2020 at 9:37 PM, Jud - s/v Sputnik said:

    Well, that only took like 5+ hours!  On and off - with lunch in between.  Still, surprisingly difficult, with saw blade continually pinching, going off track from the very narrow gap in between the bulkheads, into a bulkhead -  nothing that a little epoxy and glass can’t fix, still a bit a annoying.  
     

    A shot through the wedged open crack between the bulkheads to take lunching pressure off the saw blade.
     

    Nests perfectly.  Solid 24k oarlocks because nothing is too good for the little yacht! :-)

    Liteally just started raining —it’s been threatening to all day— as soon as we got the boat cut in half and back in the shed.  All in all, a lot harder and took a blot more time than anticipated, but she’s “done”! :-)

    905FF1C6-9D87-435A-ACA0-37B09D6788F8.jpeg

    8421FB0E-418A-47E0-8E8E-6916E77D4CAB.jpeg

    214A4621-ECE9-45DE-8640-3FBF2B2EB2DB.jpeg

    FA789F76-EAEB-48AD-9701-6D093BAA91F2.jpeg

    I thought that if you were a really good magician the trick was to make it look like you sawed your assistant in half, boats not so much.

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