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gkny

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Posts posted by gkny

  1. I made a very similar repair of the deck flange and used a shop vac to create a vacuum.  It was enough vacuum to create a nice tight fit to the compound curves and hold everything in place long enough for it to set up.  The one thing that you need to do is make sure that the their is a little bit of air passing through the vacuum to make sure that the motor doesn't overheat.  An small 1/8" hole is probably enough.  I have done things like screwing luan underneath a repair to hold things in place but you never get the same kind of even pressure that you get with vacuum bagging.

     Also, I might just glass over the deck flange in the area that you have cut away. 

  2. I have been thinking about rolling Perfection with cabosil.  I had some old Brightsides single part paint and tried rolling that.  Even though I mixed in enough cabosil to make it possible to have the mixing stick stand up straight and only slowly tilt over, the peaks still tended to flatten out a bit more than I would have liked.  I used a 3/8" nap roller.  I was wondering if I should let two-part paint sit for a bit before applying it.  Would that make it set up a bit faster and not flatten out quite so much?

  3. Thanks for all of your suggestions.  The design of the main cabin settee is pretty conventional.  There are two U shaped sections on each side of a folding table.  The long settees have a folding plywood lid.  The cushion extends underneath the cushions for the seat back and the sides.  To raise the lid to the rather large lockers, you have to remove four cushions and stack them on the other side.  I was trying to see if there was a way to reduce the number of cushions that needed to be removed and stored elsewhere to gain access.  I have seen this kind of design in quite a few boats and it is sort of inconvenient.

    If the cushions were older or in worse shape, I would be tempted to make the seat backs extend all the way to the plywood and have the seat cushion butt up against them.  If the lid was hinged where the seat butted up against the seat backs then maybe you could raise it enough to get fairly quick access.

  4. I always find that I have to pull all of the cushion seat backs to be able to get access to under seats in the main cabin salon.  The problem is that all of the back and side seats are secured with velcro and they sit on top of the seat cushion.  You can't raise the seat without removing all of these cushions.  I was wondering if anyone has seen better arrangments.  I have considered putting a thin sheet of luan on a piano hinge and attaching the back cushions to this piece of luan.  Has anyone devised a better solution to improve access?  thanks!

  5. Thanks for all of the good advice.  I was worried about closing the gap but there are a number of holes in the stringers that are at the front and back of the engine compartment that are from 2" to 3.5 inches so it sounds like I will be o.k.

  6. The diesel in my boat is enclosed by cabinetry which is entirely enclosed within the cabin.  In other words there is no wall that is shared with the outside of the boat into which a vent can be installed.  The back of the cabinet is at the head of the aft quarterberth and a space has been left open.  This makes the aft berth somewhat smelly and very noisy when the engine is running.

      I have looked a bit at the issue of air sources for engines and most of what I have seen are systems for very large powerboats.  Does anyone have any experience with trying to increase airflow by adding a ventilation system.  Is a fan and ducting an option?  Is there a good way to wire such a fan so that it only runs when the engine is running.  The engine is a 28hp volvo diesel.

  7. A previous posting mentions the OC Tenders.  They seem like an interesting design in that they have a number of features of inflatables.  Seating on inflatables is frequently on the sides with everyone arranged around the boat.  Stepping into an inflatable is easy if one steps on the tubes because they are higher than the floor and very stable relative to the floor.  The OC tender seems to capture these features with the narrow decking on the sides of the hull.  The decking seems like it would also provide a great deal of stiffness.

      I have been reading another thread about hard dinks and nesting dinks.  The OC tender looks quite a bit like a stitch and glue skiff but these skiffs have seating that is in the middle of the boat and they use a lumber rail to provide stiffness.  Are there designs that have seating on the gunnels and/or put seating level with the gunnels? 

  8. On July 29, 2019 at 10:42 AM, Ajax said:

    Nah, I'm not going crazy for the last 10th of a knot. Just having fun. I do want the bimini for the bow, though.

    One last(?) question-  My mainsheet simply runs through blocks on the underside of the boom. After awhile, pulling "down" to get the necessary tension is awkward and a bit fatiguing. It would be better to run the mainsheet through a tiny block down low somewhere, so that I'm pulling "up" or on the horizontal, which is more common. The centerboard trunk is in the ideal location but I'm not sure how I'd attach one of those little, metal eye-straps to the trunk. There's no way to attach the strap to the bottom of the boat without drilling holes in the hull and I'm not doing that.

    Another option is to run it forward and then down to the thwart and put a block with a cleat.  A second option is to use a ratchet block.  Both setups are used in frost biting fleets

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  9. Not the worst but the funniest.  Years ago, my folks had two college kids racing with us who were enthusiastic but green.  Just after the bottom mark, one of them starts asking where his foul weather top is.  Some searching ensued on the way to the top mark but no success.  It was breezy and when we set the chute it filled quickly and we all watched the young man's foul weather top go sailing through the air.  It seems that his buddy in his enthusiasm managed to pack his foul weather top in with the spinnaker.

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