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Everything posted by gkny

  1. Isn't part of the problem the loop that keeps the high point above the waterline and the size of the hose. Quite a bit of water can run back down the hose and into the bilge depending on the length of the run. The small diameter hose means that very little water will return.
  2. I have an opening in the engine box that is at the head of the aft berth. Very loud if you are trying sleep. I have been trying to think of ways to close this but get sufficient air for the engine. I realize that positive pressure is a no no as it can push fumes into the cabin that you do not want. I am not sure how you increase airflow without increasing positive pressure.
  3. I am on a mooring at it is an hour to a fuel dock so I frequently fill diesel from jerry cans. I find pouring into funnels kind of messy. Has anyone had experience with this kind of pump or the battery operated ones? Are they pretty clean to use and store? https://www.amazon.com/TeraPump-TRM20-001-Manual-Handheld-Bendable/dp/B01HOXQ680/ref=asc_df_B01HOXQ680/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=319190711912&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3364826388169041113&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004173&hvtargid=pla
  4. Several years ago, I was at a house party and ran into a guy who was a cyclist. When he found out I sailed, he said that he rode with a guy who was always talking about City Island and sailing named John. He went on to describe how John tended to turn rides into competitions (e.g., getting impatient with folks who had a flat tire, etc.). He said that slowly but surely participation declined. John did some good work for EBYRA. I just don't get the need to tell people with weaker skills and lower levels of commitment that they suck. It undercuts his contributions.
  5. Mamaroneck Frostbite Association has a measurement form. I think that these measurements were developed to try to create some one-design like standardization I think that multiple dyers were measured and then these values were published. https://docs.google.com/document/d/1aMbAEe0ux_J9B39VRaQdQ9_HG-LW13ef6c3nkinL_Rk/edit
  6. I have replaced the rails in a dyer dhow with the anchorage kit as well as made a centerboard, thwarts and a few other bits. The kit suggests that you put the rails on one half at a time so that you can reuse the holes in the gunnel for the rivets. What I did was to tape the width of the rails with fiberglass tape and fill the old holes. I then got a whole lot of clamps and clamped the inside and outside rails. This allowed me to just drill once and rivet as I went. I think that this is much faster and cleaner. In terms of the rails, you don't want to sand them and the riv
  7. I find that sailing on the jib with a roller furler works really well. You can immediately adjust to any amount of sail area that you need and completely douse very very quickly even if you are pointed pretty far downwind. Pretty easy to get close with the amount of speed that you want and then glide in.
  8. I think that it would be possible to make one out of a roll-up dry bag. They come in pretty big sizes and have a round shape on the bottom. You could glue in a ring on the mouth of the bag. There are quite a few plastic hoops online or you could make something out of pex tubing to the diameter that you wanted. The dry bags are made out of a PVC material so I wonder of the glue that you use on PVC inflatables could be used to glue down a flap that was folded over the ring? The bag would be waterproof an not absorb moisture.
  9. I have a Victron MPPT charge controller and a Victron battery monitor. I have noticed that the current readings of the battery monitor are generally less than what I have seen as measured at the panel. I assume that this is because the batteries are close to fully charged. What I am curious about is what happens when there is current draw such as the refrigerator kicking on. Does the solar charge controller just regulate based on the state of the charge on the battery or does it regulate based on the additional draw on the batteries from something like the refrigerator?
  10. I have tried a few of the copper free paints on the rudder of my boat. Last year, I used ePaint ZO and there was so much grass by the end of the season that I think the active ingredient must be Rogaine. I had better luck with Petit Hydrocoat Eco but by the end of the summer it wasn't as effective as the copper ablative paint on the rest of the hull.
  11. what about multi-wall polycarbonate? https://www.interstateplastics.com/16mm-Polycarbonate-Hurricane-And-Storm-Panel-Full-Sheet-POLCECKSW.php?kitoptionpk=7245&src=adwordspla&thisisforcallrail=1&campaignid=225228743&adgroupid=37851262274&creative=153445283219&matchtype=&network=g&device=c&keyword=sheets-POLCECKSW-kits7245&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI14yGuqOm7wIVAZ2zCh2NEA2UEAQYAiABEgIstvD_BwE&
  12. I think that it would be pretty straightforward to add coamings to a j22 for more back support and comfort sitting in the cockpit
  13. Wouldn't it just be easier to get the exact height/length right if you sleeved it. There has to be quite a bit of that mast section available to cut off a certain amount of the bottom and add back the same amount with an internal sleeve.
  14. I don't have a windlass so I switched to a large Fortress. The other thing that I did was to make up a spectra strop with a chain hook on one end and a loop for the bow cleats. When I take up the anchor I can quickly drop the chain hook onto the chain when I am right over the anchor and power over the anchor to break it loose. If I still need to take up a bit more chain by hand I can pull the chain to me and the chain hook is right by my hands. I can just reach forward and drop it 3 or 4 feet farther up on the chain. I haven't tried a chain stopper but this is pretty easy to use if
  15. I did check on some plastic Igus ones and the strength is quite a bit lower. The problem that I am having is that the conductance of these joints isn't something that is specified
  16. gkny

    Bird Repellers

    But what about the osprey?
  17. I just measured for continuity from the body to the bearing that goes on the post and found that even when it was sitting flat on a table. The multi-tester indicated continuity.
  18. I have a boat with an aluminum rudder post and a whitlock steering system with a draglink. There are rod ends on each end of the draglink or rod connecting the pedestal to the rudder quadrant. I bought some stainless steel replacements that had ptfe races supposedly but the bearing is not electrically isolated from the body. I am not sure whether the whitlock replacements are isolated. I have been pretty careful with the electronics at the pedestal but would prefer to have things isolated as well as possible. The rod ends thread onto the rod. Would tefgel on the threads and a nylon w
  19. I had a spin pole that got a significant ding in the side. I cut about a foot of the same tubing and then slotted it lengthwise to make it a little smaller when closed. I slid it in and then riveted it in a couple of places. I don't know what your section looks like but if you could find a piece of the same section could you do the same thing?
  20. Just slap Espo's Charm School on the side and deduct the whole thing.
  21. Could it be rebuilt at a shop that does starters and alternators?
  22. gkny


    Maybe the sheet was way too eased and the chute way too far out to windward for the puff
  23. Whether you use new or old holes (assuming original track), they need to be drilled before caulking. I had epoxied and then redrilled the original holes and dry fit the track before I tried to caulk it. When I dry fit it, I masked the desk at the edges of the track. I used the screwdrivers as levers and they allowed me to shift the track very small amounts in very specific locations to be able to line up the bolt that I was inserting. Same idea as the studs but I found that I needed to tweak the adjustment in more than a couple of locations to get all of the bolts located in their holes.
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