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Everything posted by gkny

  1. You might consider using shims to help with the install. To install a long curved Genoa track, I cut thin shims and taped them at right angles to the track on the deck. They were just thick enough so that I could lay the track on them and it would not touch the sealant. I had a couple of long screwdrivers that fit through the holes in the deck and track. As I flexed the track I kept it in place with the screwdrivers. I would then insert the bolts in the track in that section and pull a shim or two and tighten the nuts. I then pulled the screwdrivers and flexed the next section,etc.. The
  2. Under the forward thwart there is a vertical support below the mast. At the bottom, drill a 1/4 " hole. Feed a line through the hole and tie a gallon jug on each side. Super light, fast, and cheap. You can still put foam under each thwart as is stock for frost biting.
  3. I redid the rudder bearing on an x boat with an aluminum post. Jeffa has bearings for many of the x boats. Be very careful with wiring in and around the binnacle. The post on my boat had no signs of corrosion or wear
  4. I think that there is a better keel that was designed for it that looked to be Abigail improvement
  5. Is the freeze protection good enough that you can drain the tank but skip the pink stuff?
  6. What about twin-wall polycarbonate for cabinet sliders instead of plexiglass. 6mm twin wall weights about .27 lbs per square foot. I have never worked with it so I am not sure how well it would hold up.
  7. Yes. It works well. I put a small hole in the tubing to allow some air to flow through the shop vac. It keeps the motor from getting too hot
  8. I thought that if you were a really good magician the trick was to make it look like you sawed your assistant in half, boats not so much.
  9. I assume that the zinc in the picture was new
  10. Garden hose is made to sit out in the sun forever. On an old dinghy I screwed it to the rails with small washers. The dimpling around the washer protected other surfaces
  11. McMaster Carr has toro on balls for a bit less than the harken ones
  12. To provide support for thin panels, I screwed pvc threaded caps to the underside. I then threaded some pic pipe into them. The threads allowed for some adjustment
  13. Balsa core is pretty possible so close as possible sounds like balsa if you want to be one design
  14. I have been thinking about rolling Perfection with cabosil. I had some old Brightsides single part paint and tried rolling that. Even though I mixed in enough cabosil to make it possible to have the mixing stick stand up straight and only slowly tilt over, the peaks still tended to flatten out a bit more than I would have liked. I used a 3/8" nap roller. I was wondering if I should let two-part paint sit for a bit before applying it. Would that make it set up a bit faster and not flatten out quite so much?
  15. I have a 30 year old X boat and recently redid the bearings. The aluminum rudder stock was near perfect. Just keep it isolated
  16. The Oneida dust deputy run inline with a shop vac with a hepa filter is great for dust collection. It gets a high percentage of the dust out of the stream before it gets to the filter.
  17. A previous posting mentions the OC Tenders. They seem like an interesting design in that they have a number of features of inflatables. Seating on inflatables is frequently on the sides with everyone arranged around the boat. Stepping into an inflatable is easy if one steps on the tubes because they are higher than the floor and very stable relative to the floor. The OC tender seems to capture these features with the narrow decking on the sides of the hull. The decking seems like it would also provide a great deal of stiffness. I have been reading another thread about hard dinks an
  18. Another option is to run it forward and then down to the thwart and put a block with a cleat. A second option is to use a ratchet block. Both setups are used in frost biting fleets
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