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svein99

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About svein99

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  1. This thread has become somewhat heated and short of ideas after over one month. It's clear that the dealer is inexperienced which does not help nor a somewhat incomplete description is the problem. One of the first ideas suggested was to change the clamping to the type that puts an even pressure on the stuffing box (believe me - they work!) - assuming the stuffing box has not been damaged by overtighening the original clamps as shown in the original post and that the engine side does not leak then it seems logical that the leak is between the stuffing box gland and the propshaft (the OP's desc
  2. This is indeed a superior clamping system - not cheap, but highly recommended for stuffingbox sealing.
  3. I agree - propshaft sealing is not new. You should have a stuffing box to allow shaft rotation without a water leak. There are many types to choose from - perhaps you only need to lubricate it if you have the rubber seal type?
  4. Slightly off-topic, but it's been recommended to use a UV protective wax on clear coated carbon parts such as masts and booms. One such is Hempel Wax Tec (https://www.hempelyacht.com/en-GB/products/hempels-wax-teccel-69034). Is there any real world experience with this or similar products?
  5. Try a temporary installation and take it for a calibration sail - see the manual. If it calibrates ok you can install it properly.
  6. There is an older post (see link) that deals with jib furling on the J111. I wondered with the passage of time if the horizontal roller battens are still popular and if the design has improved to give better leech furling and durability? To my knowledge there are 3 manufacturers (RBS, C-Tech and Rutgerson - do you have any preferences and why? Are many using the Ubi Maior flat deck furler with the Jiber head locking mechanism and is it any better than the conventional that only furls from the tack?
  7. Composite wood construction would be less work and give you many finishing opportunities. I recommend a web search on balsa core (ex: Jamestown Dist) and 1/16 or 1/8 aircraft grade ply sheet (Wicks etc). Make a sandwich from the above and it would be light and strong with a minimum of refinishing work. It can also be shaped into relatively complex shapes.
  8. I want to avoid making changes to the jib except for changing batten pockets to accomodate horizontal flexible battens. The jib is on soft hanks so it should furl ok. I'm aware that the Ubi Maior is for larger boats, somewhat expensive and will require a rod or composite head stay, but its design is great. I think I need a system where the head swivel locks when furling as the line of the halyard from swivel to mast sheave will be a little less than 10 degrees (otherwise I'm afraid the top will not furl properly).
  9. Did you order a Flow 19?

     

  10. What is feasible: I like to make shorthanded sailing easier and reduce amount of sails carried in the cabin on my 27ft sportsboat. I currently have a J1 and J2 - both hanked on. The J1 (with soft hanks) can be reefed on the luff so with a good system I can leave the J2 off the boat when not racing. What I like to do: Convert my fixed forestay to a flat deck furling system by: ○ Installing a flat deck continuous structural furler like the Bartels or Ubi Maior which has a shuttle head system that locks to the forestay when
  11. svein99

    Facnor FP

    Some Facnor positive comments here: http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?/topic/199939-fecnor-flat-deck-furler/
  12. svein99

    Facnor FP

    It's been used on the Seascape 27 since 2014 and I'm not aware of any issues or complaints. Personally I'm favoring using hacked-on jibs which means I have to use a continuous flat deck structural furler. There are many out there (Bartels, Facnor, Karver, Ubi-Maior etc - all similar, but with differences so I'm still trying to decide which one better fits my needs.
  13. Don't look at the US tow numbers for cars as they are just those recommended by the maker. In Europe it is a fixed number based on design. Most of the time it's higher than for the same US model. The CRV is listed at 1500kg (braked) in Europe which is about 3300lb. It is normally recommended that you don't exceed 85% of rated load which works out at about 2500lb so you would need a light trailer to use the CRV or get the diesel version which tows up to 2000kg. For longer distances a diesel is a better option due to its better torque and fuel range. The Flow could of course be trailered b
  14. That's a nice looking boat. As for the SSC18/24/27 they are all trailerable and the 18 and 24 easily slip launched. I've trailered all of them. My current 27 require a more powerful car with some tongue loading capability, but the 18 and 24 should be tow-able by most mid-sized cars.
  15. At the low cost range I recommend the Wavefront Tiller Clutch (http://wavefrontmarine.com) which you can install in the middle of the crossover tube (with handle pointing forward mounted on an adapter) between the two rudders. You can also use a standard tiller pilot from Raymarine or B&G (Simrad). I also hear good things about the Pelagic AP. In my own experience the B&G's work OK, but not in choppy waves - the Raymarine Evolution may be better here as it has a better sensor system. For overnight cruising you might want wind/speed instruments and there is now a choice of wireless sys
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