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Bad Andy

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  • Birthday 06/03/1987

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  1. 1, If your boat was fully measured for ORR, ORC will use the same data and there is no need to remeasure. Both are pulling from the US Sailing Database and the vast majority of boats will transfer over just fine. From what I have seen from test certs and from some data shown to me by the ORC office, your rating should be a bit better under ORC. Most planing sports boats were on the right side of the normalized numbers. For other optimization run some test certificates. Test certs are $15 per test instead of $200 under ORR.
  2. He's on starboard at the moment which means he is on the good rudder. The other gybe is going to be real slow.
  3. Call Selden they will sort you out. A bobstay wouldn't hurt either.
  4. If you want to actually race with the #4 do the same as your other upwind sails with less carbon (50/50 carbon Technora is nice) and a heavy skin/taffeta. The DP triradial cloths with Lightsjin are also good like Carbon Sport. If not 10 or 11oz Dacron triradial to get a bit of shape life out of it
  5. I've done a few carbon sails in the past year with tides Marine tracks, have had zero issues. The sails are built like any other slugged sails, and the metal is so far away and isolated that it shouldn't be an issue with electrolysis.
  6. The gaff batten should not hit the backstay, its usually the next batten down. Can you post a pic? Sounds like something is wrong with the way the sail or boat is set up. Sounds like the head of the main is higher than it should be.
  7. Correct we generally will do a full carbon sail for higher end inshore racers (for example the sails that won the J111 worlds last year). These sails get custom carbon scrims, and carbon in the luff, leech and foot passes. For sails that get more abuse (genoas, heavy air, offshore, etc.) we generally will run in the 60-80% carbon range, and most of the secondary fiber (generally Technora or Twaron) will be run in the foot or horizontal passes as they have the least amount of loads but take the largest abuse when the sail flogs. For a more cruising oriented sail we will do Spectra or Vectran
  8. Without getting too deep in the weeds I'll give you a few reasons. The major one is the massive amount of customization we can do within a sail. I tried to calculate the total number of different products we can build out of the plant in Auckalnd and honestly couldn't do it because of the number of different variations we can do (without even getting to DPI). We are building every sail custom to the exact use, performance, and life expectancy that the boat needs to accomplish its goal. For example, a main, AP jib, solent, and Storm jib/staysail for the Pogo 50 will all have slightly differ
  9. If you sail in a light air venue I believe it is worth having. I do not have a number on how much of a difference it is but the mainsail looks a ton better when the boom is not weight its down. I also feel the force pushing against the vang helps stabilize the sails when it is bouncy. If you are worried about weight look at the boom kickers the small one is really light, or leave a few beers on shore when its not windy.
  10. Performance Both are going to perform within such a tight margin that most of us will never notice. I like hanks because I feel they give you a bit more range on your jib shape because you can ease scallops into the sail. Foil sails tend to have a cleaner entry which mentally makes me thing they will have a higher top speed. The difference however will be so small you wil never notice. Ease of Use Hanks are much easier to do sets and drops with. No prefeeder to worry about and the sail stays attached. I like them for short handed boats or boats with limited headsail selection. Fo
  11. Happy to help, most of the information out there on sails these days is filtered through marketing departments and they haven't a clue. I go down to NZL once a year (pre covid) to meet with the guys in the loft and the membrane plant. The guys down there know their shit and are happy to share. Fire away with any questions if you have more.
  12. I am the "Evo guy" just a few things about our sails if you have not used them before. We have a membrane plant in Auckland that was built about 6 years ago. In those 6 years we have had zero sails delaminate, yes zero, our warranty department is very bored most of the time. The first suit of sails out of the plant are still sailing in Auckland. Improvements in glue (switching from a heat set to a chemical bond), double vacuum bags, an increase in pressure on the sails and a post curing process have made an extremely tight laminate that just doe not come apart. And to be honest most of th
  13. You will be able to get plenty of tension on it without a 2:1 with the winch. Yes you can go straight to the sprit, but it will be a pain to do peels. The big advantage to that set up is the drum won't spin freely. If you feel you need a 2:1 set it up at the tack. Less line and it helps keep the furler stable. Also when you're setting up your furling line make sure you have back pressure on it with a bungie tied to a stanchion/stay/etc. This will save you a world of issues with the furler.
  14. Exactly, and its way easier. Where do you tack your spinnaker to? I'd tack the screecher there as well.
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