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The Mad Hatter

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72 Kiss-ass

About The Mad Hatter

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  • Location
    East of the Great Divide
  • Interests
    Boat Building
    Bike riding

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  1. My old man swore by two stroke oil. He used to wipe his tools down with it and said it stuck to them better than anything else. I can see how a wood box would work if the wood was impregnated with oil. I think I may give that a try.
  2. Over size the hole, at least 1.5 times the current dia. Micofibre and epoxy mixed and use a syringe to inject into the hole. It is best you don't drill out the other side to minimise the chance of the mix passing out the bottom , but if you do no biggy just tape over it . If there is a small hole through it will help minimise the chance of an air gap. The resin mix should be thick enough that you wont have too much of a problem. Wait for the resin to cure but still slightly green , drill a pilot hole and you can screw in the screw with out cracking and will have a permanent fix.
  3. I probably should of thought it through a little more over 40yrs ago before we were married. Her not liking sailing should of been a dead give away. I did raise that concern with my father-in-law , his advice was "don't worry women and boats are best kept apart." but the jury is still out on that one. She has supported my obsession for over 40yrs even though she doesn't sail. She even designed and bought 6 of these (sun safe) shirts for the boat. Swings and roundabouts.
  4. I got my first job at the age of 13 because I wanted to build my own boat. Since then I have built from ply , cedar strip and foam sandwich. It became a compulsion , learning with each build and knowing with what I had learnt I could still do better. 50yrs on, Mad Hatter was my last build and I promised the misses that it would be my last.
  5. Well done! Yellow looks great but is such a hard colour to use.
  6. Put a nut on the bolt after you coat the bolt in vaseline. Glue the lot in. Once cured the bolt will undo leaving the nut so you can fit the stanchion, or have the bolt on the stanchion to help position it correctly , but undone sufficiently to make sure the nut is as deep as possible in the glue . You will just have to remove enough core to make sure the load is adequately distributed.
  7. The flux on the old rods has probably past its shelf life. I was in the same position with old rods (but not that old) , new ones made a big difference.
  8. "What is a good modern material for making a new one?" Chicopee mesh
  9. If you are going to vanish and don"t want to use sawdust to make up the filler and you don"t want white bits from using Q cells you may be able to us microballoons to give a darker brown or the west microlite to give a very pale brown or fawn colour. Having said all that nothing is ideal.
  10. The nets on my tri are dyneema SK75 netting for the main nets and fishing net for the fwd nets as they are just there to stop sails from falling in the water. On the main nets that take crew weight I just looped the netting over some 8mm rope and just weaved a couple rows of 3mm cord through the mesh to lock the netting. So the lashing is boat to 8mm. I found the details on a web site that sold netting for this purpose when I was building a few years back but cant seem to find it again. On the fwd nets I used the same method but with 4mm and 2mm in place of the 8 and 3
  11. I have a scientific American magazine dated Feb 1957. On the front cover there is a pic of a car with 4 rocket engines in place of wheels and the caption, transport 10 years from now. I put this bit of CAD work in the same category.
  12. I would think that the higher the resin absorption the lower the chance of moisture absorption and the higher the compressive strength. If you do get around to testing Russell please post the results.
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