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The Mad Hatter

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Everything posted by The Mad Hatter

  1. I've had 20kg drums go solid. Got onto the supplier and was advised I needed to heat to 50deg C to remove all the crystals and return resin to normal without loss of properties. Good quality resins will do this if exposed to cold temps even well within their shelf life. I've done this 3 different ways, (!) putting in black plastic bag and in full sun on a hot day. (2) heated with fan heater. They were metal drums so fan heater may not be a good option if in large plastic containers although I have also returned smaller 5kg plastic containers of resin back to normal this way. (3) I also mad
  2. My old man swore by two stroke oil. He used to wipe his tools down with it and said it stuck to them better than anything else. I can see how a wood box would work if the wood was impregnated with oil. I think I may give that a try.
  3. Over size the hole, at least 1.5 times the current dia. Micofibre and epoxy mixed and use a syringe to inject into the hole. It is best you don't drill out the other side to minimise the chance of the mix passing out the bottom , but if you do no biggy just tape over it . If there is a small hole through it will help minimise the chance of an air gap. The resin mix should be thick enough that you wont have too much of a problem. Wait for the resin to cure but still slightly green , drill a pilot hole and you can screw in the screw with out cracking and will have a permanent fix.
  4. I probably should of thought it through a little more over 40yrs ago before we were married. Her not liking sailing should of been a dead give away. I did raise that concern with my father-in-law , his advice was "don't worry women and boats are best kept apart." but the jury is still out on that one. She has supported my obsession for over 40yrs even though she doesn't sail. She even designed and bought 6 of these (sun safe) shirts for the boat. Swings and roundabouts.
  5. I got my first job at the age of 13 because I wanted to build my own boat. Since then I have built from ply , cedar strip and foam sandwich. It became a compulsion , learning with each build and knowing with what I had learnt I could still do better. 50yrs on, Mad Hatter was my last build and I promised the misses that it would be my last.
  6. Well done! Yellow looks great but is such a hard colour to use.
  7. Put a nut on the bolt after you coat the bolt in vaseline. Glue the lot in. Once cured the bolt will undo leaving the nut so you can fit the stanchion, or have the bolt on the stanchion to help position it correctly , but undone sufficiently to make sure the nut is as deep as possible in the glue . You will just have to remove enough core to make sure the load is adequately distributed.
  8. The flux on the old rods has probably past its shelf life. I was in the same position with old rods (but not that old) , new ones made a big difference.
  9. "What is a good modern material for making a new one?" Chicopee mesh
  10. If you are going to vanish and don"t want to use sawdust to make up the filler and you don"t want white bits from using Q cells you may be able to us microballoons to give a darker brown or the west microlite to give a very pale brown or fawn colour. Having said all that nothing is ideal.
  11. The nets on my tri are dyneema SK75 netting for the main nets and fishing net for the fwd nets as they are just there to stop sails from falling in the water. On the main nets that take crew weight I just looped the netting over some 8mm rope and just weaved a couple rows of 3mm cord through the mesh to lock the netting. So the lashing is boat to 8mm. I found the details on a web site that sold netting for this purpose when I was building a few years back but cant seem to find it again. On the fwd nets I used the same method but with 4mm and 2mm in place of the 8 and 3
  12. I have a scientific American magazine dated Feb 1957. On the front cover there is a pic of a car with 4 rocket engines in place of wheels and the caption, transport 10 years from now. I put this bit of CAD work in the same category.
  13. I would think that the higher the resin absorption the lower the chance of moisture absorption and the higher the compressive strength. If you do get around to testing Russell please post the results.
  14. I have had good success with molyslip. I have it for cutting threads in stainless with a tap but works great as a release if you coat the bolt and then wiping is off as much as possible. Once the resin is cured the bolt screws out easy leaving a good thread. Vasaline also works but get a better thread with the molyslip. I expect mould release would also work.
  15. Sorry but I don't really. All I know is that the stuff I used was normally used as lining fabric in garments like men's jackets and sold as a lining fabric. I have found nylon that was even lighter but didn't like it because it would tear into bits when removing it just making it a bit of a pain. The ever so slightly heavier fabric could by removed without tearing as a sheet. I should also point out that the good nylon that I used as peel ply was still much thinner than the normal peel ply I bought at the start of the last project and more stretchy so it would take complex shapes better than
  16. Russell, well said. I agree 100% in every point that you have made as long as the home builder knows what he is doing. I have built many timber boats for myself. My latest build has a foam core and while It is a great boat and sturdy by foam standards a timber cored boat would be more durable. Nothing to do with build quality , just the difference in properties of the materials.
  17. I am familiar with both duracore and end grain balsa as a core. It is using wood instead of foam as a core so I call it a wood boat. The more friendly term is composite. If it is built right it would be a great boat. It will be heavier than a foam cored boat so if I thought the boat had been built well enough for me to consider buying I would want it weighed to quantify the difference. Built right at a reasonable weight it would be more durable than a foam cored boat.
  18. A boat built from wood is always harder to sell. It is the unknown capabilities and attention to detail of the builder. As far as I'm concerned saying it was "built under professional supervision " does not cut it with me. As in all professions there are good and not so good and when building from wood you need the best. Also with the dominance of fibreglass in the industry a lot of professional builders may have never even worked on a wood boat let alone built one. Nothing wrong with wood boats if built right but it is too easy to cut corners and someone pays the price later on. Are you
  19. My solution is similar to Scarecrow, I spliced and eye in one end and half hitches with a couple of stitches with whipping twine the other end. If I need to adjust I will cut the stitches and undo the half hitches , tighten and redo.
  20. I replaced my ply washboards with ones I made from corecell foam, carbon and glass. The edge was solid glass for around 1/2 an inch so it wouldn't get damaged when not in position. This just edged 6mm M80 foam and all sheaved in carbon to make sure it was stiff enough for the task. There are two and below is a pic of the top one.
  21. I made a whole set from diff diameter knitting needles. Cut the end off and drilled a hole down the centre to take the line to be spliced.
  22. For anti pitch you are putting them on the wrong end of the boat. Better off modifying the rudders.
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