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The Mad Hatter

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Everything posted by The Mad Hatter

  1. The flux on the old rods has probably past its shelf life. I was in the same position with old rods (but not that old) , new ones made a big difference.
  2. "What is a good modern material for making a new one?" Chicopee mesh
  3. If you are going to vanish and don"t want to use sawdust to make up the filler and you don"t want white bits from using Q cells you may be able to us microballoons to give a darker brown or the west microlite to give a very pale brown or fawn colour. Having said all that nothing is ideal.
  4. The nets on my tri are dyneema SK75 netting for the main nets and fishing net for the fwd nets as they are just there to stop sails from falling in the water. On the main nets that take crew weight I just looped the netting over some 8mm rope and just weaved a couple rows of 3mm cord through the mesh to lock the netting. So the lashing is boat to 8mm. I found the details on a web site that sold netting for this purpose when I was building a few years back but cant seem to find it again. On the fwd nets I used the same method but with 4mm and 2mm in place of the 8 and 3
  5. I have a scientific American magazine dated Feb 1957. On the front cover there is a pic of a car with 4 rocket engines in place of wheels and the caption, transport 10 years from now. I put this bit of CAD work in the same category.
  6. I would think that the higher the resin absorption the lower the chance of moisture absorption and the higher the compressive strength. If you do get around to testing Russell please post the results.
  7. I have had good success with molyslip. I have it for cutting threads in stainless with a tap but works great as a release if you coat the bolt and then wiping is off as much as possible. Once the resin is cured the bolt screws out easy leaving a good thread. Vasaline also works but get a better thread with the molyslip. I expect mould release would also work.
  8. Sorry but I don't really. All I know is that the stuff I used was normally used as lining fabric in garments like men's jackets and sold as a lining fabric. I have found nylon that was even lighter but didn't like it because it would tear into bits when removing it just making it a bit of a pain. The ever so slightly heavier fabric could by removed without tearing as a sheet. I should also point out that the good nylon that I used as peel ply was still much thinner than the normal peel ply I bought at the start of the last project and more stretchy so it would take complex shapes better than
  9. Russell, well said. I agree 100% in every point that you have made as long as the home builder knows what he is doing. I have built many timber boats for myself. My latest build has a foam core and while It is a great boat and sturdy by foam standards a timber cored boat would be more durable. Nothing to do with build quality , just the difference in properties of the materials.
  10. I am familiar with both duracore and end grain balsa as a core. It is using wood instead of foam as a core so I call it a wood boat. The more friendly term is composite. If it is built right it would be a great boat. It will be heavier than a foam cored boat so if I thought the boat had been built well enough for me to consider buying I would want it weighed to quantify the difference. Built right at a reasonable weight it would be more durable than a foam cored boat.
  11. A boat built from wood is always harder to sell. It is the unknown capabilities and attention to detail of the builder. As far as I'm concerned saying it was "built under professional supervision " does not cut it with me. As in all professions there are good and not so good and when building from wood you need the best. Also with the dominance of fibreglass in the industry a lot of professional builders may have never even worked on a wood boat let alone built one. Nothing wrong with wood boats if built right but it is too easy to cut corners and someone pays the price later on. Are you
  12. My solution is similar to Scarecrow, I spliced and eye in one end and half hitches with a couple of stitches with whipping twine the other end. If I need to adjust I will cut the stitches and undo the half hitches , tighten and redo.
  13. I replaced my ply washboards with ones I made from corecell foam, carbon and glass. The edge was solid glass for around 1/2 an inch so it wouldn't get damaged when not in position. This just edged 6mm M80 foam and all sheaved in carbon to make sure it was stiff enough for the task. There are two and below is a pic of the top one.
  14. I made a whole set from diff diameter knitting needles. Cut the end off and drilled a hole down the centre to take the line to be spliced.
  15. For anti pitch you are putting them on the wrong end of the boat. Better off modifying the rudders.
  16. HW, Thanks, The oven I made to heat the M80 Corecell foam when building my boat will easily do that . I found the foam liked 105 to 106 deg C to bend evenly when placing in the mould. 112 was too hot as the edges would scallop and 100 was not hot enough causing it to bend in a series of flats and curves rather than I nice even fair curve . I heated that oven with two ceramic fan heater modules purchased from ebay log time back. I may give that a go next time I need a carbon tube, just to see . It is always good to have options.
  17. HW, What temp do you heat the oven? I have make the bag just from flat plastic and packing tape. You have to also make up ends for the mould so the bag only provides a seal and the mould has all the structural strength. I have also used lay flat plastic tubing and just sealed the ends. As long as the bag you use when fully inflated would be larger than the inside dia of the tube you are making and the mould takes the load when you pump it up, it all works fine. I just connect up the compressor set up to continue to provide 35psi which I found to be optimum . I have made tubes using
  18. By far the best exterior finish I've got is when I make the tube with the split alloy tube lined with packing tape for release and inflating a bag. They come out like a length of shiny black glass. When I do it on an alloy mandrel once it has been spun I wrap it in 2inch wide strips of peel ply and then duct tape all while spinning the tube. The laminate is so tight and compact there is no way I could release by pouring ice water down. (I tried that over 20yrs ago when I made my first carbon tube.) The carbon can still be post cured once it has been released. The thinner tubes I've mad
  19. If you want to start the project with a carbon tube, I have made carbon tubes 3 different ways. The one I made to act as a socket for my pole to slide into was made over a male mandrel of plastic poly pipe. I set it up so I could spin it on an axle with a cordless drill. The mandrel was made to collapse to release once the carbon cured . It was surprisingly easy to do. Being able to spin the tube allows one to compress the laminate a surprising amount. If you have an alloy mandrel you can just coat it in candle wax and pour boiling water down once cured and the alloy
  20. Boats built from wood in rising temps without a vacuum are eventually prone to problems. If prep work is done while temp is going up and laminating when temp is going down or if a vacuum is applied it will easily outlast the builder. Not such an issue with foam cored boats because the closed cells of the foam limit the moisture migration.
  21. One can have a problem with exotherm and bubbles in a very thick application of resin that cures too quickly, but if the days temp is not falling at the time any rise in ambient temp causes air in the core to expand and this can blow bubbles in even very thin resin applications. The ambient temp is usually not a problem as long as it has started to fall and continues to fall. From my own experiments I have found that once the ambient temp starts to fall there is a bit of a lag before the air in the core stops expending. The real down side of the bubbles is that they can also provide a path
  22. That face is a really cool touch !
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