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The Mad Hatter

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Posts posted by The Mad Hatter

  1. Build a wood box big enough to store epoxy and put a light globe of at least 25w. That will keep the epoxy at a workable temp.

    I have used fan heaters and plastic sheeting to warm jobs before . You can adjust temp with venting to give a constant temp. I always monitor temp with  a thermometer . Pretty easy and straight forward once set up . Try to bring up to temp before applying epoxy if possible. If temp goes up after application it can expand air inside the wood and blow bubbles in the epoxy.

    BTW- I built my first boat in the living room. I had just started renovating it. Halted the renovations, built the boat and then finished off the room.

  2. I remember there was a boat in this race with a bi-plane rig but can't remember its name or designer.  I have not been able to find anything out searching the net so putting it out there....... 

    Can anyone help me out with this or just have a list of entries as that may nudge my memory. I remember taking a trip to see the boats at the wharf in Darling Harbour a day or so before the start  but that was a while back and at the time I was more interested in Steinlarger's wing mast than anytning else.

    Any info would be appreciated.

  3. I've had 20kg drums go solid. Got onto the supplier and was advised I needed to heat to 50deg C to remove all the crystals and return resin to normal without loss of properties. Good quality resins will do this if exposed to cold temps even well within their shelf life.  I've done this 3 different ways,  (!) putting in black plastic bag and in full sun on a hot day.  (2) heated with fan heater. They were metal drums so fan heater may not be a good option if in large plastic containers although  I have also returned smaller 5kg plastic containers of resin back to normal this way. (3) I also made a hot box that heater to 65deg C and used that. Just a 25- 60 watt light globe as the heat source.  Box made of 2 layers of ply with 50mm insulation between.   I think the main problem is the shelf life of the hardener and that depends a lot on how it is stored. If it absorbs moisture the strength of the resin  will be compromised. Do some tests and if in doubt I would  replace the hardener.

    • Like 1
  4. Over size the hole, at least 1.5 times the current dia. Micofibre and epoxy mixed and use a syringe to inject into the hole.

    It is best you don't drill out the other side to minimise the chance of the mix passing out the bottom , but if you do no biggy just tape over it .  If there is a small hole through it will help minimise the chance of an air gap. The resin mix should be thick enough that you wont have too much of a problem.

    Wait for the resin to cure but still slightly green , drill a pilot hole and you can screw in the screw with out cracking and will have a permanent fix.

    I have also coated the screw in vasoline and just pushed it is before cure. Depends on the specific circumstances.

    Done it many times over the last 40yrs and never had a problem. The epoxy prevents further water problems with that hole as a bonus. 

  5. 5 hours ago, SloopJonB said:

    Did you consider a new wife before you made that promise?

    I probably should of thought it through a little more over 40yrs ago before we were married.

    Her not liking sailing should of been  a dead give away.  I did raise that concern with my father-in-law , his advice was

    "don't worry women and boats are best kept apart."  but the jury is still out on that one.

    She has supported my obsession for over 40yrs even though she doesn't sail.

    She even designed and bought 6 of these (sun safe) shirts for the boat.

    Swings and roundabouts.

    No photo description available.  

  6. Put a nut on the bolt after you coat the bolt in vaseline. Glue the lot in. Once cured the bolt will undo leaving the nut so you can fit the stanchion, or have the bolt on the stanchion to help position it correctly , but undone sufficiently to make sure the nut is as deep as possible in the glue .

    You will just have to remove enough core to make sure the load is adequately distributed. 

    • Like 1
  7. If you are going to vanish and don"t want to use sawdust to make up the filler and you don"t want white bits from using Q cells  you may be able to us microballoons to give a darker brown or the west microlite to give a very pale brown or fawn colour.  Having said all that nothing is ideal.

  8. The nets on my tri are dyneema SK75 netting for the main nets and fishing net for the fwd nets as they are just there to stop sails from falling in the water.

    On the main nets that take crew weight I just looped the netting over some 8mm rope and just weaved a couple rows of  3mm cord through the mesh to lock the netting.

    So the lashing is boat to 8mm.  

    I found the details on a web site that sold netting for this purpose  when I was building a few years back  but cant seem to find it again.

    On the fwd nets I used the same method but with 4mm and 2mm in place of the 8 and 3.

    It has worked well for me but I did have to re tension a couple of times. It now seems stable. I don't think I will have to re tension again.

    However if I do it is pretty easy. Just pull the 3mm out , wrap the 8mm a couple squares   further into the net and rethread the 3mm.

    Please see  the nets in the pic if my explanation is unclear.114474314_DSC_038911737.thumb.JPG.11a8dc286207b30d82073d1b663403c2.JPG

     

    • Like 2
  9. I have a scientific American magazine dated Feb 1957. On the front cover there is a pic of a car with 4 rocket engines in place of wheels and the caption, transport 10 years from now. I put this bit of CAD work in the same category.

  10. 8 minutes ago, Russell Brown said:

    Killer ride Malolo! I recently learned that balsa (as a core material) can be infused and gain very little weight from resin absorption. The end grain only absorbs as deep as the individual cells and with infusion, the skins have very low porosity. 

    I'd like to do some testing myself.

    I would think that the higher the resin absorption the lower the chance of moisture absorption and the higher the compressive strength.

    If you do get around to  testing Russell please post the results.

  11. I have had good success with molyslip. I have it for cutting threads in stainless with a tap but works great as a release if you coat the bolt and then wiping is off as much as possible.

    Once the resin is cured the bolt screws out easy leaving a good thread.  Vasaline also works but get a better thread with the molyslip. I expect mould release would also work.

  12. 7 hours ago, Laurent said:

    The Mad Hatter, any more specific recommendation for nylon peel-ply? Weight (or thickness???) denier? etc...

     

    Thanks !

     

    Sorry but I don't really. All I know is that the stuff I used was normally used as lining fabric in garments like men's  jackets and sold as a lining fabric. I have found nylon that was even lighter but didn't like it because it would tear into bits when removing it just making it a bit of a pain. The ever so slightly heavier fabric could by removed without tearing as a sheet. I should also point out that the good nylon that I used as peel ply was still  much thinner than the normal peel ply I bought at the start of the last project and more stretchy so it would take complex shapes better than normal peel ply.  All I can suggest is get some and do some testing 

    • Like 1
  13. Russell, well said. I agree 100% in every point that you have made as long as the home builder knows what he is doing.

    I have built many timber boats for myself.   My latest build has a foam core and while It is a great boat and sturdy by foam standards  a timber cored boat would be more durable.

    Nothing to do with build quality , just the difference in properties of the materials.

  14. 5 hours ago, Raz'r said:

    It’s not a wood boat. It’s a glass boat with balsa core, not foam.

    balsa has some amazing properties, keep it dry and it’ll be fine.

    if the resell is lower, so what, you paid less, right?

    I am familiar with both duracore and end grain balsa as a core. It is using wood instead of foam as a core so I call it a wood boat. The more friendly term is composite. If it is built right it would be a great boat.  It will be heavier than a foam cored boat so if I thought the boat had been built well enough for me to consider buying I would want it weighed to quantify the  difference. Built right at a reasonable weight it would be more durable than a foam cored boat.   

    • Like 3
  15. A boat built from wood is always harder to sell. It is  the unknown capabilities and attention to detail of the builder. As far as I'm concerned saying it was "built under professional supervision " does not cut it with me. As in all professions there are good and not so good and when building from wood you need the best.  Also with the dominance of fibreglass in the industry  a lot of professional builders may have never even worked on a wood boat let alone built one. Nothing wrong with wood boats if built right but it is too easy to cut corners and someone pays the price later on.   Are you OK with the  risk?

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