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11 Whiner

About OCS

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  • Location
    Geelong Australia
  • Interests
    sailmaking, sailing

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  1. That sail's life is over, you can repair it with tape, quick fix etc. But IMHO a waste of time and money. Plus don't ever put yourself in a position where you need to rely on it!!!
  2. I am another C Breeze fan, a good silver plus cloth! Suitable for a lot of applications. This is one of my faves, appears to my trained eye to be a sail that utilises the lighter fabric in the higher load areas. Concept is right but back the front.
  3. Not much difference in performance in the TP52s, the traditional film membranes more than hold their own.
  4. Recutting a Dacron sail does help but just retards the problem for a while, not a long term solution.
  5. Makes sense, best of both worlds, full battens up high with most of the benefits of an FB main and shorter battens low to avoid chafe which occurs on monohulls ( usually ok on multis with apparent wind further forward in decent breeze). sailmaker of 40+ years
  6. Limited view but some things stand out even in little bit we can see! Full batten it! Too much roach on batten in view/ bottom batten is too short and maybe others.. something funny going on at tack, wrong cut back? Get sailmaker to look. foot is too long for boom, it is maxing out! Easy fix may be to put some extender plates at gooseneck if possible rather than new boom or sail recut. release the luff , looks like it has shrunk, unpick the hand stitching at tack and let it go up into sail. and please get your sailmaker to put a small reinforcement on leech between th
  7. Daysailing and coastal cruise- longevity, handling, reliability, reasonable performance and cost are probably the requirements. cross cut Dacron of a mid to top end quality from Dimension, Contender, Challenge or Bainbridge would suffice, just avoid the real budget cloths that are hidden under misleading monikers like High Performance, Premium Plus or Supercruise.
  8. Or you can get a Hydranet panelled sail or Spectra Membrane with far superior fibres for cruising for less than a 3DI polyester sail.
  9. My apologies for not being clearer, in a traditional woven fabric the cloth is engineered so the fill ( across the roll ) threads are stronger either in number or denier, as well as the being laid flat ( the warp threads along the roll are crimped around the fill threads). This is reversed in warp orientated cloth for radial construction and evened out both ways in balanced cloth. Balanced cloth is the norm now for low aspect sails rather than mitre cut. But a traditional fill orientated cloth suits a mitre cut sail as the load is aligned. The issue with mitre cut is that pesky joining s
  10. Cross cut cloths are the right cloth for a mitre cut sail. It’s like building 2 joined cross cut sails.one addressing leech load the other foot loads. you are right, it is not as critical with today’s more stable Dacron. When I first started sailmaking 40+ years ago, it was all mitre cut Genoa’s. Hell we still do the odd one if it suits the sail configuration better. http://bullsails.blogspot.com/2016/04/back-to-70s-mitre-cut-sails.html ps Mack Sails seem a pretty good operation.
  11. Agree, completely! If some wanker tried that. Hand the money back and “ don’t let the door hit you on the arse on the way out!”
  12. Sailmaker of 40 years The Ullman option in DP looks the best value! Nice cloth! The performance cruise (ugh) and super cruise are budget cloths, the Marblehead and DP LA are good top end and the high modulus in the middle ( as the price suggests)
  13. Best to look at independent testing if available as well. Sometimes the numbers are a bit misleading when done in-house. Use a sailmaker with first hand knowledge of making sails in that cloth.
  14. Interesting from FB Fake news? Recently, a customer brought our attention to the North Helix Code Zero sail, which was claimed to reduce the loading on the bowsprit and the rig up to 50%, compared to a normal Code with an anti-torsion cable in the luff. The Doyle "Cableless" would function similarly. As this would appear to defy logic, how would distributing the load from the torsion cable into the sail reduce the loads in the corners? After all, the Code Zero is still supported flying from its corners, by the tack line, halyard and sheet only with cable in the luff or wi
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