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harrygee

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About harrygee

  • Rank
    Anarchist

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  • Location
    Tasmania
  • Interests
    Sailing, paragliding, motor bikes, the usual stuff

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  1. Thrill of speed = lack of control squared.
  2. If bare poles counts as "under sail", 100+ nm in ten hours. Twice, an East Coast low and Cyclone Osea. 30ft catamaran Not happy either time.
  3. If you have room underneath, put the nuts back on flush with the end of the bolts and give them a whack with a hammer. Otherwise, if you don't mind mangling the slots, an impact screwdriver with a blade of about 1/2" will do the job. Or get hold of some big steel washers and hold one in the slot and lever it with a big shifter / wrench. More than one way to balls up a job. Cheers
  4. Anyone who is surprised at any part of this episode hasn't been paying attention. Our sport has been rotten from top to bottom for a few years. Go cruising. Or stand up.
  5. I put a similar system to the original post in my Cav 28, which has no bilge to speak of. Total cost less than A$100, about US$ 70, including the timer, which I have set to run 2 minutes in 24 hours. Initially, I had the 3mm hoses connected to the top of the electrical switch-plates, as shown in the initial post but it wasn't picking up the last dregs, so I now have the hose horizontal, flush against the hull, with the sponge clamping it down. It gets as much as I could expect, leaving just a smear of water, about the same as a manual sponge-out. The pump seems happy to run wit
  6. Thanks for that and I'm glad you found a solution. Sounds like you need to be an octopus. Cheers
  7. Well done. How about sharing your new knowledge? Cheers
  8. I wouldn't be without a digital multimeter.
  9. I'll second cyclone above. Get a steel / stainless nut that's a close fit over the top of the stud. It doesn't have to thread onto the stud. Spot weld the nut onto the stud. The heat from the weld will help removal.
  10. If you're not obsessed with detail, cheap gauges will do the job. Once you're used to checking the gauge and you know what to expect, any unexplained deviation should get your attention. Whatever you get, use the senders that come with the gauges, don't mix brands. If you use random senders, you may be lucky and get a reading of 62 C when it's actually 82 C. Maybe you could live with that. VDO senders operate in the opposite sense from, for instance, Yazaki, meaning that, stone cold, your gauge will hit the max reading and will creep back as the sender warms up, which is not
  11. Thanks for that, looks like a clever and affordable solution to the problem. I'm going to try it. Back in a while. I have timers but the rest of it, I have to get. Cheers
  12. I've used pumps similar to your original-post Amazon pump on dozens of deliveries. So I like them. Less mess than the shakers in my experience. I tie a couple of 20 ltr drums to the pushpit, within reach of the filler if possible, or add hose to suit, so that there's no need to handle drums at sea. Most of those boats were small, with minimal fuel capacity. I buy the pumps from hardware stores, average cost about $5 AUS so yours may be better quality. Or not. They have a limited life, which has never worried me, so the shakers may suit your application better.
  13. Did the pump run until now or is it a new installation? If you short-out the two brown wires (join the two brown wires where they connect to other wires), the pump should run. If not, you may not have supply to your circuit (blown fuse, remote switch etc.) Or the pump may be stuffed. Or it may be trying to run but it's full of hair etc. If it runs as above, with the two brown wires shorted, you may have an electronic switch that is polarity - specific, meaning that you should try reversing the connections to your two brown wires. That's why one of the wires has a whit
  14. ^^^ Normal. Walk in the door with a toolbox and the fridge suddenly works. You have to sneak up on gremlins.
  15. These things work ok when the engine is not running. Often inaudible when the engine is running. Get a man-size alarm warning, a motor-bike horn etc. If you have a temperature alarm switch as well as the oil switch, a couple of diodes will enable the oil / temperature lights to identify the problem. It's usually obvious anyway.
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