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harrygee

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Everything posted by harrygee

  1. A couple of things to check first. Make sure that the lead-in of the furling line is guiding the line towards the middle or upper half of the drum, so that you're not getting multiple turns on the lower drum. Also, keep a bit of tension on the furling line as you're unrolling the sail, to prevent a build-up of slack turns on the drum. If it's a case of too much line for the drum (big overlapping genoa?), 1/4" line will fix the problem but will be hard on your hands in a bit of wind. The strength of 1/4" is unlikely to be an issue unless you're trying to strangle a 155% jib to g
  2. My heart fell when I heard that it was Hunga but this appears to be in the Ha'apai group, the middle of Tonga, well south of Hunga where I have friends. Hopefully there are few casualties and minimal damage but it looks grim for Ha'apai. Anyone in Vavau?
  3. Nature reserves the right to drop that stuff on us at 3 a.m. At 2 a.m., west of the Solomons in a 40knot blow that was about to rate a name, I put my third reef in and, shortly after, my top spreader tore away from the mast (because the halyard had flicked around it in the dark) and the spreader spun around the stay, beating everything it could reach. The situation was complicated by my estimated position (plastic sextant days), where my chart said "shoal reported 1955". I had to climb up and secure the top spreader to the lower spreader, then beat to the Solomons for a week.
  4. If that's a keel-stepped mast, look no further. You need a decent seal around the mast.
  5. Thanks for that. I'll look at them. Without holding one fitting against another, I'll need to convince myself that they're compatible. No hurry, my mast is unlikely to come down in the next week. If I was standing on deck, I wouldn't tempt fate that way!
  6. Thanks for the quick replies. I've been thinking about that solution Zonker; it would mean I could do 90+% of the job myself. I'll see if I can source Gibb T-Balls. Cheers
  7. I want to replace my 1/4" standing rigging and I prefer to do the job myself. I can get Stalok fittings for everything else and I'm familiar with Staloks but the existing caps and lowers have Gibb tee-ball termination at the top and Stalok don't have a drop-in replacement. I could do away with the tee-ball arrangement and make regular tangs but it would be heavier, more wind-resistant and not as pretty. Does anyone know of similar compression fittings that would fit the Gibb sockets, in 1/4", not metric 6mm. The Gibb sockets have a 15mm+- slot. Thanks.
  8. I wouldn't be without a sounder, it would be my first pick if I was told I could only have one instrument. In Aus (which I know, you're not), the cheapest sounders are "fish finders", which attempt to show a few other details beside depth. Sometimes not very successfully. If you can live with the smallish digits, they do the job. To find a suitable part of your hull, where you plan to glue your transducer, you should first place the transducer in a plastic bag, with enough water in the bag to cover the transducer. Hold the bag and transducer against the hull and move it around
  9. If you want a headcount of those who've quit racing because of these dickheads, count me in. I just got home from a week of cruising around Tasman Peninsular, thoroughly enjoyed.
  10. Some horrible mark roundings, rusty or maybe the mark wasn't where they expected. I like Scallywag's attitude in getting on with it after the forestay hicup. Boats have quit in the past, with less of a cluster. I'm planning on stooging around in Storm Bay for a couple of days, it looks like a light few days coming up.
  11. I haven't found the knock-offs too greedy for power. For 90 seconds, 10 amps to run the fan, pump and glow-plugs, then 0.9 amps when the glow plugs cut out. Another 10 amp cycle for 90 seconds when the glow plugs fire up for the shut-down cycle when you're done with it. They work in any conditions in which I'd want to be at sea. Installation is probably easier than any alternative; can be installed in a locker, fore and aft or athwartships, ducting to the accommodation, fuel from the supplied tank or your existing lines, exhaust through the transom or deck,(a 1" stainless tube that
  12. BUM. We all know where it goes from here. Thanks for the ride, it's been a blast. See you on the water.
  13. In the unlikely event that you have a PSS or similar dripless seal on your propellor shaft, where it exits the hull, be aware that the dripless seal will drip if you move the engine. But I'm with the others above, preaching the need to check everything you can while the engine is in place. Does the engine crank ok on the starter motor? Can you hand crank it? Fuel etc.
  14. If you haven't changed the oil in a while (because the engine hasn't been doing the hours), try changing the oil, then run it under load for an hour or so. You may have to do it twice to free-up the governor. That's one of many possibilities but it's cheap and easy.
  15. The Chinese heaters all have a fuel pump in the kit. Bleeding the lines using the pump takes a minute or so and the heater runs happily with air in the lines. Mine has the heater mounted about a metre above the 10 litre tank, uses about 1/4 litre per hour. The digital controller shows an error reading when it is unhappy, so you know you have a fuel issue, low voltage etc. The analogue controller is simple and cheaper but gives no feedback. I burn wood at home so I'm not a diesel heater obsessive.
  16. The cheap Chinese diesel heaters are hard to beat. I had a 2kw in my 24', now a 5kw in my 28', both more heat than I need but controlled. I have installed a few in other boats, with a 5% experience of faulty parts, which are readily available and cheap. If you are handy, they are a good thing. Be aware that the exhaust mufflers that come with the kit are dangerous and should not be used on a boat. Built to leak. Cheers
  17. Too late to edit. The internal connections are spade connectors. They are still a can of worms to open up.
  18. If you just want a basic autopilot, so that you switch it on and it (tries to) follow the course that you set, you only need two wires. Not a bad way to go, KISS. I'd find a two-pin plug and socket that match, with big contact surfaces and man-sized screw connections, suitable for the real world. The two wires will be; brown positive and blue negative or red positive and black negative, depending on the age. Otherwise, the suggestions above are good. Whatever has caused the damage shown may be an ongoing issue. Maybe move the socket. Soldering is not necessary, just
  19. As Slug says, be careful what you wish for. Most boats that I've delivered were "new boats" to someone, old boats to someone else. Left in the care of a busy broker for a year or two until some shiny-eyed mug came along and wants it delivered Brisbane to Hobart, out of season. The usual skills offshore will be a small part of it, you'll spend more time dealing with foul diesel, oil-less gearboxes, alternators that don't, sails that don't, the list is endless. I always took some time to understand the boat and look for problems that I had seen before, only to find there are alwa
  20. Thrill of speed = lack of control squared.
  21. If bare poles counts as "under sail", 100+ nm in ten hours. Twice, an East Coast low and Cyclone Osea. 30ft catamaran Not happy either time.
  22. If you have room underneath, put the nuts back on flush with the end of the bolts and give them a whack with a hammer. Otherwise, if you don't mind mangling the slots, an impact screwdriver with a blade of about 1/2" will do the job. Or get hold of some big steel washers and hold one in the slot and lever it with a big shifter / wrench. More than one way to balls up a job. Cheers
  23. Anyone who is surprised at any part of this episode hasn't been paying attention. Our sport has been rotten from top to bottom for a few years. Go cruising. Or stand up.
  24. I put a similar system to the original post in my Cav 28, which has no bilge to speak of. Total cost less than A$100, about US$ 70, including the timer, which I have set to run 2 minutes in 24 hours. Initially, I had the 3mm hoses connected to the top of the electrical switch-plates, as shown in the initial post but it wasn't picking up the last dregs, so I now have the hose horizontal, flush against the hull, with the sponge clamping it down. It gets as much as I could expect, leaving just a smear of water, about the same as a manual sponge-out. The pump seems happy to run wit
  25. Thanks for that and I'm glad you found a solution. Sounds like you need to be an octopus. Cheers
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