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Alex W

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Everything posted by Alex W

  1. Harken makes a cam cleat for this purpose. I love it on our Express 37. If you pull up it forces the cams open. It has saved my knees. https://www.landfallnavigation.com/harken-trigger-cam-cleat.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIo42h4q3W9wIV8gjnCh0NCwlfEAQYCyABEgJ0v_D_BwE Our Harken blocks were predrilled for it (the bolt pattern is wider than a Harken 150).
  2. 2QMs are old (I think the GM replaced them in the early 80s) and I think are usually or always raw water cooled. The 2GM is a reliable workhorse. Beta comes with factory installed mount adapters that will bolt right up to where your Volvo was. That probably saves money on the install, ask your mechanic.
  3. Another killer induction feature on a boat is that any additional burners not in use become useful counter space. I’ve never been on a boat with too much counter space. Of course this only helps if you have a huge battery. In our home kitchen we use this feature to put other appliances like the rice maker or waffle iron under the hood.
  4. We just moved from a house with a classic (30 years old now) Viking range to an induction range. The induction range is so much nicer to cook on. More power than the Viking when you need it, and incredibly low heat when you don’t. The only thing that I miss gas for is cooking corn tortillas over an open flame. The silicon pads mentioned are easy to find, they are sold to keep rough cast iron from scratching glass stove tops. About half of our pans were compatible, but most of our daily cooking is on cast iron which works well of course. I’ve always been skeptical of indu
  5. I've had a pair of Firefly batteries since 2016 (well, I bought one of them in 2015 and the second in 2016). They've worked great for me, but in 2022 I can't see that much of a reason to pick them over LFP. This has changed really quickly, pricing on LFP batteries is dropping about 50% every 2 years right now. I'm sad to hear that Firefly quality has gone down and pricing has gone up, that's not a good pattern.
  6. Hank-on sails worked great on my Catalina 25 tall rig and would be my choice on a 27 footer too. A forestay mounted jib bag makes them really fast to flake and store.
  7. Trying using only SeatalkNG terminators and having the Garmin attached with just the NMEA/SeatalkNG adapter. In my experience it works best to pick a single backbone and since yours is more SeatalkNG than NMEA 2000 that is the direction that I’d go in. Also chaining i70 displays isn’t recommended anymore. I’d debug with only one display before trying to make two of them work.
  8. I like to lead to the cabin top clutch farm. Then I can use a halyard winch on it if I need to and it’s easy access for the pit person.
  9. We spray the bowl with a water/vinegar solution after every use. In mild weather where I’m wearing full foulies and many layers under it can be a lot faster to stand than sit. If the boat is heeling heavily or bouncing around I always sit.
  10. The OGO looks interesting and pretty well thought out. One nice feature of the NH is that you can pee anywhere with the poop flap closed. There are drains that prevent pee from going into the solids tank and allow for standing use even on a healed boat.
  11. For us that takes months of cruising. I’ve either bagged it up and put it into the trash or have dumped it overboard when in deep enough waters.
  12. I buy coir in this big and dense block (many kg) that you break up with a pick and hammer. It’s about $20 for a multi year supply at a good hardware store. This smaller pack would probably work well with one slice per use: Coco Bliss Premium Coco Coir Brick 250g, OMRI Listed for Organic Use (10 Bricks) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07DPTWBQZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_WX7V53JNVA0DAKQR5MZW
  13. Don’t underestimate how quickly you’ll fill the pee tank. We empty the 2.5 gallon one daily when cruising (2 adults, 2 kids) and twice daily when doing long sailboat races with 8 crew. The tiny c-head pee tank always scared me away. I’ve often thought of making an external pee tank for our NH that is 6-10 gallons (or just route the pre hose directly overboard), but haven’t done it because it would be hard to hide that we do overboard discharge with it. That Ogo looks like a nice size improvement over our tall Nature’s Head.
  14. and the 3 hour runtime battery for our EPCarry is under 15lbs in its waterproof case. The raw batteries (5 year old 36v/10ah AllCell packs with Panasonic cells) are about 5lbs each, but the waterproof box that I keep them in is pretty heavy. It has been a great way to reuse some old ebike batteries.
  15. I added spacers to our EPCarry clamp that let it fit over the rudder hardware. I wouldn’t want to mount the motor to the rudder hardware because it wouldn’t let you run the motor for a short period without holding onto the tiller. Rudders need to be very low friction, but motor mounts should have enough friction for hands free driving. I rowed for years and sold my old Honda 2hp outboard because it sat idle for about 3 years. I finally got the EPCarry when we had kids and needed to carry more weight. The kids also love doing after dinner harbor cruises in the dinghy to look for sea
  16. My EPCarry drives our dinghy (10’ Gig Harbor) at 3.8 knots using 240 watts. Our battery is 700wh (so close to your 600wh suggested battery) so that is a runtime of just under 3 hours and a range of over 10nm. I think that the very large diameter and low rpm prop is more efficient, but haven’t done any testing to confirm this.
  17. I played with writing some simple N2K PGNs from my Beaglebone and it wasn't that hard. I was just spoofing simple ones like speed through water transducers. I haven't seen any N2K to ethernet gateways that support 2-way traffic. They generally assume that everything is sourced from N2K and on the ethernet/wifi side that you only want to see data, not produce it.
  18. You can also splice in a sacrificial dyneema tail that sits in the sheave (I make it about 1-2 meters long). That is easier than reversing halyards and stronger than a knot. Even when I’m out of practice I can swap the tail in about 15 minutes.
  19. When I was playing with this I had a CAN board for my computer (beaglebone, would use Pi today) that had spring connectors for the CAN wires. This made it easy to use a SeatalkNG cable with bare ends. You could do the same for any flavor of n2k cable, my backbone just happens to be SeatalkNG. I powered the Beaglebone off of the 12v supply from n2k. I’d still consider doing this for a Pi but would run the display on it’s own power source. That would let you leave the Pi on all of the time, but just turn on the display when you need it.
  20. I wouldn’t delete the stern ladder. I think you’ll want something easy to deploy in a MOB. We installed one on day one as safety gear. Ours is well off center and out of the way of where a wind vane (or emergency rudder) would go. You could still add the midship one.
  21. Doesn’t Pineapple still build there? It might be worth checking in with Ballard Sails or another PNW builder since there are so many Nonsuchs up here. I’ve seen a few Ballard sails on Nonsuchs. They will build here or outsource to their design. I trust Alex (one of the owners) when it comes to sail cloth, he hasn’t steered me wrong. He also has told me when he thinks they should build it vs outsource.
  22. I had a boat done with a soft hand 1 or 1.5mm cord instead of 3mm paracord. It took someone a long time, but was really comfortable and held up for at least a decade. I’ve sailed with Paracorded wheels and this one was much more comfortable This photo is of a stove gimbal that I made, but you can see the wheel too:
  23. That’s similar to how I did it as well. Also test it externally (as shown in those photos) to verify that your lengths are all correct. it’s been a few years without any twisting. The purple line is our control line, the blue is the cascade, and the far orange line goes to the outhaul car.
  24. That is a big reason why I use an iPad in the cockpit of our boat. The ideal spot is one that folds out into the companionway. That doesn’t work well on my particular boat’s design. The other common spot is mounted into the bulkhead, but I hate cutting a custom shaped hole for an electronic device that will be out of date in a decade. I’m waiting for someone to make a lower profile plotter that can be surface mounted. It doesn’t need to be tablet thing, but under 25mm would be nice. Hopefully with a single cable for power and nmea2000.
  25. On my previous boat (which had a similar sail plan to a Catalina 30) I would keep one kite in a sock for single handed use. I would sock, jibe, unsock. That made everything really easy (but slow). I did this with both sym and asym kites. I built my sym setup with used pole and a cheap worn out kite before getting a good one. The sock worked really well on that boat (a Pearson 28-2 with swept spreaders), but hangs up in the standing rigging on my current boat (an Express 37 with inline spreaders). Same North sock design in both cases. Maybe borrow one first or buy used?
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