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Captain Jack Sparrow

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79 Kiss-ass

About Captain Jack Sparrow

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    Somewhere in the Caribbean Sea

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  1. Planning for offseason projects. I have an old (1994) TPI J/80. Soft spot with delam in cockpit floor just ahead of the port side scupper, maybe 1' x 1' area. There are a couple areas on the deck aft of the chainplates that look like they may be having issues in the near future (they sound out solid still). Does anyone know the balsa thickness used in the construction of the decks of these boats? I know the hull is 3/8". Is the deck and cockpit sole the same thickness? In the event nobody knows, I'll just cut it open and measure, but I am hoping to have the new material here before I
  2. Hall Spars made the rigs for the U.S boats for a while, then Sparcraft (Charleston Spar in the U.S) became the supplier. Apparently AG+ now is the class supplier, though if you buy a replacement rig in the U.S. it will be the Sparcraft section. I've never heard of John Mast rigs on J/80's as factory supplied, but maybe there are a few boats out there with replacement rigs from them.
  3. Some J/boats run the tack line straight through the bail, some insert a low-friction ring inside the bail, and some lash a low-friction ring to the bail (on top of it). All are simpler, cleaner solutions than having a turning block banging around off the end of the sprit.
  4. Too bad there aren’t any available used to build a fleet with. They are in high demand with Worlds happening in Newport in ‘22 and of the few that have come to market in the last few months they have been snapped up extremely quickly.
  5. The ClubSwan 80 is a retractable sprit- https://www.nautorswan.com/news/2020/09/clubswan-80-born-to-change-the-maxi-yachts-world/ "Retractable Carbon Sprit". There certainly is a bit of engineering and man hours in implementing a bowsprit, but I would think that based on the size of these sprits (10+ feet) that adding the equivalent length of hull wouldn't be an attractive proposal at all. Nobody in this market is looking for a bargain on engineering or man hours (or they wouldn't be buying a new 80 foot racer-cruiser) and in any case, the added wetted surface caused by adding
  6. @Hitchhiker If they were laminated ribs, I'd agree 100%. And there certainly isn't any reason to go poking holes all over the ribs. Most O'Day Rhodes 19's have white oak ribs that aren't encapsulated or sealed in any way. If a blade or even dull flat screw driver sinks into the wood, its pretty indicative of ribs being in poor shape, even if they aren't visibly falling apart. We had one R19 locally have the keel start to separate from the hull, even though the ribs that the keelboats fastened through appeared to be whole. Turns out you could sink a knife easily into the tops of the ribs holdi
  7. It’s possible they aren’t a disaster if they are originals but it is unlikely. Especially if there has been movement at the hull joint, saltwater can get in there and eat away at the bolts. New ones can be sourced from Stuart Marine in Maine. They’re expensive but if you do it correctly you only have to do it once. I redid the bolts and ribs on O’Day R19 #1852 a couple years ago. That was a late 60’s hull I believe, so it was around 50 years old with the original bolts.
  8. Check ribs. Stab them with a knife or flathead screwdriver. Make sure they are tabbed in well. Check the keel/hull joint. If that isn’t separated you’re in good shape with sag. Keel bolts should be checked. Hopefully they aren’t originals.
  9. They aren’t that heavily laid up. It’s pretty common that they have wavy bottoms or indentations from stands if not balanced properly. Is the boat being looked at an O’Day or a Stuart hull?
  10. There is a slight irony to you criticizing my screen name and talking about my ego in a paragraph immediately after talking up your contributions to SA of J/boat renderings. Thanks for taking the time to expound upon your position though. Do you think the new J/9 will satisfy the seemingly many looking for used j/100’s? There was a local 100 just shipped across the country to San Francisco. It was pretty well set up for racing..wonder if the west coast guys will see her out there.
  11. The first J/100's came out in 2005..before the market crash. There was plenty of money going around, hence the arrival of the Morris M36, Hinckley Daysailer 42, Friendship 40, at the same time. They were all meant to be simple boats that could be handled easily and had the minimum creature comforts (a head) and huge, comfortable cockpits. Deck layouts ensured that nobody would have to leave the cockpit. The J/100 at an asking price of around $140k in 2005 dollars was much more affordable than the others in the luxury daysailer market and the best performing by a longshot. Absolutely agree
  12. It was designed as a daysailer, as a somewhat cheaper (relative) option to the Morris and Hinckley options that were coming to market around the same time in ~2004. It was not intended to compete with their weekender/racer in the 105. Also, it may be barely faster than the 29 boat for boat (ratings would suggest otherwise) but it can sail to its rating upwind with only 2 people on board. Try 2 people on a J/29 upwind and see if it sails to it's rating. The J/100 is a perfectly good boat for what is what intended to do, which is daysail. Owners may race it, and the boat happens to be rea
  13. The fairlead ring on the sprit seems to be the best solution (whether lashed to the U-bolt or inserted into it, as shown above). Cost effective, and simple. That being said, any of the mentioned solutions may not solve the issue, which may be a "software" (crew) problem rather than hardware problem. If the crew work is the issue, I'd suggest 1) making sure the sprit is oriented correctly (unlikely thats the culprit), 2) on the hoist, keeping some tension in the tackline as the sail goes up (also probably not the issue), and 3) on gybes, take any slack out of the tack line. #3 is
  14. One has to kick the mainsheet UP to release it when sailing at certain heel angles or when the traveler is cranked up to weather In the diagram you posted from Harken, picture that the traveler is dropped slightly to leeward. Look at the angle of the sheet and geometry of the block labeled 2680 on the swivel base. Now picture what that block will do if the traveler car goes all the way to the windward side (port side), but the swivel is still be sheeted in the same position. The base block leans over to bind up with the cam cleat, and makes it very difficult to release without pulling nearly d
  15. I’ve never seen a j/80 without the basic traveler/swivel cam base arrangement.. I’m pretty sure it is mandated by class rules/build specifications. https://www.j80.org/images/pdf/J80-Standard-Building-Specifications.pdf https://www.j80.org/images/pdf/J802018_CR29012018.pdf Perhaps putting an angled shim under the cam cleat in the swivel base would make it easier to release? Or maybe taking the captive fairlead off the top of the cam cleat so the line can be flicked out of the cam easier. I know exactly the problem you mention. Definitely don’t want to be relying on
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