Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

About fsiljelof

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Location
    Stockholm, sweden
  • Interests

Recent Profile Visitors

624 profile views
  1. How about an aluminium bushing up front of single hole, fill the bow with epoxy/ chopped glass to distribute the load and a stainless back plate at the inner end. In would run a single 10mm dyneema through with a simple "celtic diamond knot" inside. The compartment is drained and already wet from the top. I have already added 20 layers of 300g glass rowing to the bow as a first layer of added strength. Is there a risk the 45 degree angle of the bobstay will still cut in to the bow? As for stainless, we sail the Baltic, much less salt and corrosion here.
  2. @money drain and @Zonker sorry, yes it's attaching the bobstay as in the title - with a glass tube, are you suggesting I go straight though the bow from side to side or just straight forward out from the bow and set a dimond knot or similar on the inside? The compartment is allready drained as it takes in water from the hatch on top. I'm thinking I could use something like https://www.upffront.com/en_US/shop/product/l-bush10-si-loop-products-bush-10-silver-8275?category=369 to reduse shafe.
  3. Does anyone know a good product to fit a bowsprit to the bow? I've added extra lamination for streangth but I need an actual fitting/chain plate/u-bolt/ bow eye .... Boat is 38ft, I'll fly a 75m2 code from it, other gear is specified to 1.5 ton of working load. I guess an Wichard U-bolt could be used, is there any alternatives?
  4. Hmm - the manual for Garmin GNX is not very detailed, I do not have a garmin plotter, do you think I can plug the SD into my vulcan B&G plotter, or do you think I need to get the Garmin network updater cable/ card reader?
  5. Perfect thank you! I'm feeding H5000 analogue wind and speed, but there is also alot of sensors on the N2K bus, GPS/ Heading/ Heel & trim/ Rudder ref etc. but if I understand you correct, selecting the H5000 processor as the source in Garmin for all values should keep the Garmin from recalculating the numbers? (Displaying TWA directly from H5000 with it's "advanced motion correction" and ignoring AWA/BSP/Leeway ....)
  6. If I use a garmin GNX 120 with a B&G H5000 system - can I feed the garmin calculated data for true wind (speed/ angle/ direction) from H5000 or will the garmin display try and make it’s own calculations? What about AWA, speed, headings and so on - will garmin read “raw” data or with H5000 calibrations applied? I would trust my H5000 to do a better job, but can garmin read the “pre calculated” data using all calibrations etc. from H5000?
  7. Thanks @LeCanard am I reading you correct that TX_A (-) and TX_B (+) should be connected to Input signal and return and if not working - try the other way around? I've tried both - TX_B (+) to Signal and TX_A (-) to Return looks like some kind of connection established, but I still get a syntax/parity error. Could it be related to H5000 sending a checksum and H2000 not understanding what a checksum is?
  8. Thanks, the H5000 is the sending side, not the the receiving one. I dont think there is a setting for checksum for NMEA 0183 in nor H2000 nor H5000 though. Garmin looks really nice, but I'd prefer to get B&G displays to be able to display targets/polar data etc. out of my H5000 Performance CPU and not rely only on Expedition to feed Garmin with data. Using my old 2020 displays would be a "temporary" fix to invest step by step ....
  9. I’m trying to link my B&G H5000 CPU to my H2000 20/20 displays via NMEA 0183 (either via the performance processor or the NMEA FFD). My H5000 CPUS has …. #1: TX_A (-) #2: TX_B (+) H2000 Performance processor has … (#21: “Ground”) #26: ”Input return” #27: ”Input signal” Alternatively NMEA FFD has …. Brown: “NMEA Input Signal” Blue: “NEMA Input Return” (Black:
  10. @MultiThom and @solosailor my spinnaker halyard is a fractional halyard (Seaqust Prima 38) the mast is pretty stiff (carbon) and I do have pretty powerfull 48:1 backstay - but still with the fractional code zero - do think the backstay along with a grinded single halyard alone (no cascade at the tackline) will give me enough tension to sai the higher angles? I'm hoping to hoist at perhaps TWA 70 in light air <6 or 8 knots of wind.
  11. I’m getting a 65% code for next season, what is my best option to get enough luff tension? I have 2 spinnaker halyards, I’d prefer not to go to 2:1 as I use both for spinnakers, but perhaps that is my best option? If I do go 2:1 can I realistically hoist a spinnaker from it - or will that leave me with one halyard for each sail? If I go with 2:1, can I skip a tack line and just snap the furler directly to the bowsprit/ bobstay? As I have symmetrical kites I will never use the code to go downwind more than say TWA 110 I’m getting a custom 60cm bowsprit so there is an option
  12. I'll try and have a go at my hard over time, I haven’t changed it since first commissioning I have an ultrasonic speed sensor, so to me a fould paddle wheel is not the problem. @BobJ cruising speed - are sure you adjust the correct one? There is both cruising speed under "Steering > Limits > Cruising Speed" which you should be able to set at 7 and there is speed source "Steering > Speed Source > Manual" where 0 means you let the pilot select the best available source of speed input (1st BSP > 2nd SOG > 3rd Cruising speed). If you set that one to 7 you override BSP
  13. @BobJ I was recently told a typical TWA correction table to start out with was ... TWS 5 10 15 20 25 30 TWA offset -5 -2 3 5 6 7 +/- some degrees As course (not heading) is used for TWA and leeway is a factor in course, make sure you have your heeling sensor and leeway constant calibrated (along with your compass of course) before you go for tweaking your TWA any further.
  14. Still what I’m after is not numbers - it’s what to look for and how to adjust - I’m not lacking hours on the water ... but I just don’t know where to start - my boat seam to be very active on the helm and snaking more than it would stealing by hand - where do I start? Response - rudder gain - counter rudder? What’s your scheme of adjustment? Look for what - adjust what?
  15. @BobJ as this is for IMOCA 60 it’s not for us, but there is some useful info in here if you haven’t read it https://www.blur.se/images/H5000-Pilot-Advanced-User-Info.pdf
  • Create New...