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fsiljelof

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Everything posted by fsiljelof

  1. How about an aluminium bushing up front of single hole, fill the bow with epoxy/ chopped glass to distribute the load and a stainless back plate at the inner end. In would run a single 10mm dyneema through with a simple "celtic diamond knot" inside. The compartment is drained and already wet from the top. I have already added 20 layers of 300g glass rowing to the bow as a first layer of added strength. Is there a risk the 45 degree angle of the bobstay will still cut in to the bow? As for stainless, we sail the Baltic, much less salt and corrosion here.
  2. @money drain and @Zonker sorry, yes it's attaching the bobstay as in the title - with a glass tube, are you suggesting I go straight though the bow from side to side or just straight forward out from the bow and set a dimond knot or similar on the inside? The compartment is allready drained as it takes in water from the hatch on top. I'm thinking I could use something like https://www.upffront.com/en_US/shop/product/l-bush10-si-loop-products-bush-10-silver-8275?category=369 to reduse shafe.
  3. Does anyone know a good product to fit a bowsprit to the bow? I've added extra lamination for streangth but I need an actual fitting/chain plate/u-bolt/ bow eye .... Boat is 38ft, I'll fly a 75m2 code from it, other gear is specified to 1.5 ton of working load. I guess an Wichard U-bolt could be used, is there any alternatives?
  4. Hmm - the manual for Garmin GNX is not very detailed, I do not have a garmin plotter, do you think I can plug the SD into my vulcan B&G plotter, or do you think I need to get the Garmin network updater cable/ card reader?
  5. Perfect thank you! I'm feeding H5000 analogue wind and speed, but there is also alot of sensors on the N2K bus, GPS/ Heading/ Heel & trim/ Rudder ref etc. but if I understand you correct, selecting the H5000 processor as the source in Garmin for all values should keep the Garmin from recalculating the numbers? (Displaying TWA directly from H5000 with it's "advanced motion correction" and ignoring AWA/BSP/Leeway ....)
  6. If I use a garmin GNX 120 with a B&G H5000 system - can I feed the garmin calculated data for true wind (speed/ angle/ direction) from H5000 or will the garmin display try and make it’s own calculations? What about AWA, speed, headings and so on - will garmin read “raw” data or with H5000 calibrations applied? I would trust my H5000 to do a better job, but can garmin read the “pre calculated” data using all calibrations etc. from H5000?
  7. Thanks @LeCanard am I reading you correct that TX_A (-) and TX_B (+) should be connected to Input signal and return and if not working - try the other way around? I've tried both - TX_B (+) to Signal and TX_A (-) to Return looks like some kind of connection established, but I still get a syntax/parity error. Could it be related to H5000 sending a checksum and H2000 not understanding what a checksum is?
  8. Thanks, the H5000 is the sending side, not the the receiving one. I dont think there is a setting for checksum for NMEA 0183 in nor H2000 nor H5000 though. Garmin looks really nice, but I'd prefer to get B&G displays to be able to display targets/polar data etc. out of my H5000 Performance CPU and not rely only on Expedition to feed Garmin with data. Using my old 2020 displays would be a "temporary" fix to invest step by step ....
  9. I’m trying to link my B&G H5000 CPU to my H2000 20/20 displays via NMEA 0183 (either via the performance processor or the NMEA FFD). My H5000 CPUS has …. #1: TX_A (-) #2: TX_B (+) H2000 Performance processor has … (#21: “Ground”) #26: ”Input return” #27: ”Input signal” Alternatively NMEA FFD has …. Brown: “NMEA Input Signal” Blue: “NEMA Input Return” (Black:
  10. @MultiThom and @solosailor my spinnaker halyard is a fractional halyard (Seaqust Prima 38) the mast is pretty stiff (carbon) and I do have pretty powerfull 48:1 backstay - but still with the fractional code zero - do think the backstay along with a grinded single halyard alone (no cascade at the tackline) will give me enough tension to sai the higher angles? I'm hoping to hoist at perhaps TWA 70 in light air <6 or 8 knots of wind.
  11. I’m getting a 65% code for next season, what is my best option to get enough luff tension? I have 2 spinnaker halyards, I’d prefer not to go to 2:1 as I use both for spinnakers, but perhaps that is my best option? If I do go 2:1 can I realistically hoist a spinnaker from it - or will that leave me with one halyard for each sail? If I go with 2:1, can I skip a tack line and just snap the furler directly to the bowsprit/ bobstay? As I have symmetrical kites I will never use the code to go downwind more than say TWA 110 I’m getting a custom 60cm bowsprit so there is an option
  12. I'll try and have a go at my hard over time, I haven’t changed it since first commissioning I have an ultrasonic speed sensor, so to me a fould paddle wheel is not the problem. @BobJ cruising speed - are sure you adjust the correct one? There is both cruising speed under "Steering > Limits > Cruising Speed" which you should be able to set at 7 and there is speed source "Steering > Speed Source > Manual" where 0 means you let the pilot select the best available source of speed input (1st BSP > 2nd SOG > 3rd Cruising speed). If you set that one to 7 you override BSP
  13. @BobJ I was recently told a typical TWA correction table to start out with was ... TWS 5 10 15 20 25 30 TWA offset -5 -2 3 5 6 7 +/- some degrees As course (not heading) is used for TWA and leeway is a factor in course, make sure you have your heeling sensor and leeway constant calibrated (along with your compass of course) before you go for tweaking your TWA any further.
  14. Still what I’m after is not numbers - it’s what to look for and how to adjust - I’m not lacking hours on the water ... but I just don’t know where to start - my boat seam to be very active on the helm and snaking more than it would stealing by hand - where do I start? Response - rudder gain - counter rudder? What’s your scheme of adjustment? Look for what - adjust what?
  15. @BobJ as this is for IMOCA 60 it’s not for us, but there is some useful info in here if you haven’t read it https://www.blur.se/images/H5000-Pilot-Advanced-User-Info.pdf
  16. @BobJ my boat is a Prima 38, 38ft, 6500kg with an L shaped fairly wide bulb keel and a fairly large spade rudder - but if you let go of the helm, she will find her own destination on the chart and turn to it very quickly. I think my drive is the T1. Pilot obviously H5000. I’m happy to share my settings but I doubt they are much help - I’ll check when I’m back In the boat.
  17. I keep reading about how the top solo sailors have an intimate relationship with their autopilots which would most likely make their wives ask them to reprioritize their time if they knew. I’m reading article after article telling me how to master the pilot, however they all seam to start with the basics and tell me very little about the advanced functions and settings in the end. Can anyone share some of their secrets to better pilot performance? Rudder gain & Counter rudder and tricks for fine tuning? Do you set it once and leave it or do you keep making changes? I’m sure there is
  18. Thanks - I reached out to Tinley a couple of years ago, by then they couldn't help me, I tried again last week, but still havn't had an answer.
  19. Thanks, I think our needs are slightly different. From what I understand you´re running H2000 as you main instrument system and you’re trying to complement it with additional data. I’m trying to scrap my H2000 processor and go to H5000. All I’d like to keep is my three mast 2020 displays. They work just fine and getting three N2K ones is £2,100 I’d like to spend on more crucial parts as a full H5000 Hercules installation will be a very expensive upgrade no matter what. I do have the a NMEA FFD as well as a Performance processor which according to the manual should primarily be used for NM
  20. The displays do not take NMEA0183 as far as I know - the old H2000 performance processor should be able to take NMEA0183 but I'm not sure which sentences it would accept. Also I would prefer tu run only one processor and remove the old H2000 and H2000 performance processor completely if possible.
  21. Thanks I have it, but it's only a one-way converter so I can use it to get N2K fram a Fastnet processor (in my case into expedition) but not to get Fastnet out of a N2K processor which would be the case if I bought the H5000 processor and kept my old Fastnet 20/20 displays.
  22. Is there still no way to convert a modern NMEA2000 signal into an old Fastnet signal? I'm considering upgrading my H2000 system to H5000 but it's really more money than I can motivate to swich everything at once. I would like to use my old 20/20 displays for bsp/TWA/AWA and Target speed/ Optimum wind angle if possible. Is there really no way to use the older displays with the new processor? I'm seeing sailmon can interface with both N2K and Fastnet, but adding a full sailmon processor on top of the H5000 Hercules seems like overdoing it. Is my only option to start from scratch?
  23. Thanks, I do have all the parts needed - before wifi I used to have a bi-directional cable with a USB-serial converter. Now I use a oneway Fastnet to N2K converter and a Yacht Devices wifi gateway to get data over wifi at much higher speed than NMEA0183 over wifi. But as it is "one way" I use a second wifi serial link to bring data from Expedition to H2000 (starting data/ layline / additional perfomance data and so on). For sailing it works very good as a two way system - but it can't transfer the polars.
  24. I know in theory how to do it with NMEA over a serial link and I do have Expedition. But I'm trying to solve it with the FFD old fashion push button style. I know I've done it in the past. My current computer to instrument set up is a Wi-Fi "one way" set up - so I can't ask B&G to send the polars via the Wi-Fi. And I know from the past, setting up the system for cable instead is a lot of changes in both H2000 and Expedition so I'm worrying I might not find my way back to the correct settings
  25. Yes - but B&G has stopped supporting H2000 since many years ago and are not really super service minded when it comes to their legacy hardware.... so no answer from B&G
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