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fsiljelof

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Posts posted by fsiljelof

  1. How about an aluminium bushing up front of single hole, fill the bow with epoxy/ chopped glass to distribute the load and a stainless back plate at the inner end. In would run a single 10mm dyneema through with a simple "celtic diamond knot" inside. The compartment is drained and already wet from the top.

    I have already added 20 layers of 300g glass rowing to the bow as a first layer of added strength. 

    Is there a risk the 45 degree angle of the bobstay will still cut in to the bow? As for stainless, we sail the Baltic, much less salt and corrosion here.

    350x350?unique=9bada16image.thumb.png.529ad090c74b9642d424128c143069a1.png

      image.jpeg.f8a3d0c9843b14cee9df3ddb061641e0.jpeg

  2. @money drain and @Zonker sorry, yes it's attaching the bobstay as in the title - with a glass tube, are you suggesting I go straight though the bow from side to side or just straight forward out from the bow and set a dimond knot or similar on the inside? The compartment is allready drained as it takes in water from the hatch on top. I'm thinking I could use something like https://www.upffront.com/en_US/shop/product/l-bush10-si-loop-products-bush-10-silver-8275?category=369 to reduse shafe. 

     

     20150311-230135.jpgBob Stay Addition - The J/109 Class Association Forum

  3. Does anyone know a good product to fit a bowsprit to the bow? I've added extra lamination for streangth but I need an actual fitting/chain plate/u-bolt/ bow eye ....

    Boat is 38ft, I'll fly a 75m2 code from it, other gear is specified to 1.5 ton of working load.  

    I guess an Wichard U-bolt could be used, is there any alternatives?

  4. Perfect thank you! I'm feeding H5000 analogue wind and speed, but there is also alot of sensors on the N2K bus, GPS/ Heading/ Heel & trim/ Rudder ref etc. but if I understand you correct, selecting the H5000 processor as the  source in Garmin for all values should keep the Garmin from recalculating the numbers?   (Displaying TWA directly from H5000 with it's "advanced motion correction" and ignoring AWA/BSP/Leeway ....) 

  5. If I use a garmin GNX 120 with a B&G H5000 system - can I feed the garmin calculated data for true wind (speed/ angle/ direction) from H5000 or will the garmin display try and make it’s own calculations? What about AWA, speed, headings and so on - will garmin read “raw” data or with H5000 calibrations applied? I would trust my H5000 to do a better job, but can garmin read the “pre calculated” data using all calibrations etc. from H5000? 

  6. 1 hour ago, LeCanard said:

    The NMEA input consists of an optocoupler.  See it as a LED  shining on a transistor to get galvanic isolation.

    The Signal return is simply the cathode of the LED and NOT gnd or B-. So you  connect that to the  TX-.

    The A and B thing often creates misunderstandings, as the A/B from the RS422 point is opposite to the A/B of NMEA0183.

    The pair is always eachothers compliment, so both of them can be +5V and 0V  but never at the same time. If you dont get it working, first thing is to reverse polarization. The LED inside the optocoupler will flash either way, but only one is readable.

     

    /LC

     

     

    Thanks @LeCanard am I reading you correct that  TX_A (-) and TX_B (+) should be connected to Input signal and return and if not working - try the other way around? I've tried both -  TX_B (+) to Signal and  TX_A (-) to Return looks like some kind of connection established, but I still get a syntax/parity error. 

    Could it be related to H5000 sending a checksum and H2000 not understanding what a checksum is?

     

  7. 1 minute ago, chriggel said:

    Your problem might be the missing checksum in the NMEA0183  1.x protocol. If you cannot disable the checksum check on the receiving side (H5000) you won't succeed. Do yourself a favour and get some Garmin GNX120 mast displays directly connected to the NMEA2000 backbone...

       

     

    Thanks, the H5000 is the sending side, not the the receiving one. I dont think there is a setting for checksum for NMEA 0183 in nor H2000 nor H5000 though. Garmin looks really nice, but I'd prefer to get B&G displays to be able to display targets/polar data etc. out of my H5000 Performance CPU and not rely only on Expedition to feed Garmin with data. Using my old 2020 displays would be a "temporary" fix to invest step by step .... 

  8.  

    I’m trying to link my B&G H5000 CPU to my H2000 20/20 displays via NMEA 0183 (either via the performance processor or the NMEA FFD).

    My H5000 CPUS has ….

    #1:                       TX_A (-)

    #2:                       TX_B (+)  

    h5000.PNG

     

    H2000 Performance processor has …

    (#21:                   “Ground”)

    #26:                    ”Input return”

    #27:                    ”Input signal”

     perf.PNG

     

    Alternatively NMEA FFD has ….

    Brown:               “NMEA Input Signal”

    Blue:                   “NEMA Input Return”

    (Black:                “Ground”)

     nmeaFFD.PNG

     

     

    I’m guessing the H5000 is NMEA 0183 v2.x or 3.x but H2000 is only NMEA 0183 v1.x (with the signal/ground connection rather than the newer +/- connection)

    From what I understand I should connect "NMEA +/A" to "In" and "Shield" to "G", but nothing in the above manuals really corresponds to that.

    nmea2to1.PNG

    What is the correct way to wire these together? All I get from H2000 is Err.3 “Syntax or parity error on received NMEA data.” 

    I’m simply sending VTG (Track made good and speed over ground) at 1hz 4800 Baud from H5000 trying to show SOG or COG on the display – but all I get is Error. 

    I’ve tried both input 1 and 2 on the performance processor, calibrating NMEA MDE accordingly and using the NMEA FFD for the connection.

  9. @MultiThom and @solosailor my spinnaker halyard is a fractional halyard (Seaqust Prima 38) the mast is pretty stiff (carbon) and I do have pretty powerfull 48:1 backstay - but still with the  fractional code zero - do think the backstay along with a grinded single halyard alone (no cascade at the tackline) will give me enough tension to sai the higher angles? I'm hoping to hoist at perhaps TWA 70 in light air <6 or 8 knots of wind.  

  10. I’m getting a 65% code for next season, what is my best option to get enough luff tension? I have 2 spinnaker halyards, I’d prefer not to go to 2:1 as I use both for spinnakers, but perhaps that is my best option? If I do go 2:1 can I realistically hoist a spinnaker from it - or will that leave me with one halyard for each sail?
     

    If I go with 2:1, can I skip a tack line and just snap the furler directly to the bowsprit/ bobstay?  As I have symmetrical kites I will never use the code to go downwind more than say TWA 110 
     

    I’m getting a custom 60cm bowsprit so there is an option for 2:1 or more in the tack line/ bobstay - if this is the better way, what’s a smart design? I’m seeing many different solutions. 
     

    The boat is a Prima 38 (with symmetrical spinnakers) the code will be 75m2 and hoisted at 15.5m the sailcloth will be Maxikote polyester as laminates will be costly in our rating system.

    Current halyard is Dyneema 10mm SK75   do I need something with even less stretch?

    Appreciate any hints as I’ve never had any code sails onboard.

  11. 16 hours ago, BobJ said:

    Peter G (blur.se) suggested using a higher cruising speed during Autotune than B&G recommends (B&G recommends using 1/2 of normal cruising speed).  Unhappy with my initial results, I tried this and did it twice - once upwind and once downwind due to wave effects - under power at 7 knots.  I'm leaving "Adapt" on so it can keep learning.  Gust Response, TWS Response and Heel Compensation are turned off for now.

     Hard-over time turned out to be a major adjustment.  Slowing it down to 12 seconds really settled the pilot down.  I also found out the hard way that if your speed paddlewheel is fouled, your boat will wander under autopilot like a '62 Chevy Impala with bad shocks.  The Cruising Speed value is supposed to take over in this situation.  I keep re-setting it to 7 knots but each time I turn on the pilot it has set itself back to zero.

     I know there are some of you lurking out there who have been through this process.  Help a couple sailors out.

    I'll try and have a go at my hard over time, I haven’t changed it since first commissioning 

    I have an ultrasonic speed sensor, so to me a fould paddle wheel is not the problem.

    @BobJ cruising speed - are sure you adjust the correct one? There is both cruising speed under "Steering > Limits > Cruising Speed" which you should be able to set at 7 and there is speed source "Steering > Speed Source > Manual" where 0 means you let the pilot select the best available source of speed input (1st BSP > 2nd SOG > 3rd Cruising speed). If you set that one to 7 you override BSP and SOG if they are available. 

  12. 16 hours ago, BobJ said:

    Some of the advanced settings are tied to True Wind readings.  Will Oxley says it takes about an hour per TWS to gather that data.  This assumes you have an hour of steady breeze at each wind speed and are efficient at it.  Any suggestions to shorten the process, enough to get a workable TWA/TWS table input, to use those autopilot features?  For example, are TW adjustment tables available for various kinds of boats, which can then just be tweaked for observed errors?

    @BobJ I was recently told a typical TWA correction table to start out with was ...

    TWS 5 10 15 20 25 30

    TWA offset -5 -2 3 5 6 7

    +/- some degrees

    As course (not heading) is used for TWA and leeway is a factor in course, make sure you have your heeling sensor and leeway constant calibrated (along with your compass of course) before you go for tweaking  your TWA any further.  

  13. Still what I’m after is not numbers - it’s what to look for and how to adjust - I’m not lacking hours on the water ... but I just don’t know where to start - my boat seam to be very active on the helm and snaking more than it would stealing by hand - where do I start? Response - rudder gain - counter rudder? What’s your scheme of adjustment? Look for what - adjust what?

  14. @BobJ my boat is a Prima 38, 38ft, 6500kg with an L shaped fairly wide bulb keel and a fairly large spade rudder - but if you let go of the helm, she will find her own destination on the chart and turn to it very quickly. I think my drive is the T1. Pilot obviously H5000. I’m happy to share my settings but I doubt they are much help - I’ll check when I’m back In the boat.

     

  15. I keep reading about how the top solo sailors have an intimate relationship with their autopilots which would most likely make their wives ask them to reprioritize their time if they knew. I’m reading article after article telling me how to  master the pilot, however they all seam to start with the basics and tell me very little about the advanced functions and settings in the end. Can anyone share some of their  secrets to better pilot performance?

    Rudder gain & Counter rudder and tricks for fine tuning? Do you set it once and leave it or do you keep making changes? I’m sure there is much room for improvement from my first commissioning – but what should I look for to fine tune?

    Auto trim – I keep reading about auto trim to keep a balanced weather helm, but I can’t find a way to change the auto trim in the H5000 pilot (or the manual), is there something I’m missing? If you know where to find it, how do think around adjusting it?

     

    Response – how do think on response in different conditions

    Gust respons – do you turn it on, if so what decides the min value, response rate and TWA window?

    TWS respons – do you turn it on, if so what decides the response rate?

    Bear away max – how do you come up with the right angle?

     

    Auto response – do you let the pilot handle response by choosing Economy, Normal or Sport, if so when do you go eco and when do you go sport? Or do you prefer to set your own response rate?

    Recovery – do you turn it on? What are your thoughts on narrow/medium/wide?

     

    Heel compensation – Do you turn it on, if so how do you decide on response rate?

    Tack time & tack angle – do you change it? How do you come up with the numbers?

     

    What else am I missing? What are key settings for success and what can be left to default?

    • Like 1
  16. 16 hours ago, micha571 said:

    I recommend asking Tinley Electronics if they have some sort of converter. They do a lot of converters NMEA/N2K/Fastnet, have a look at their site:

    https://www.tinleyelectronics.com/products.htm

     

    14 hours ago, Robc said:

    Tinley electronics will have options...ld consider www.aandtinstruments.com....

    Started with Tinley, they are brilliant and the processor is designed to do exactly what you want, dual fuel so you don’t need to rewire everything!

    brilliant support, on a lot of bigger boats now and a very viable alternative to sailmon.

     

    Thanks - I reached out to Tinley a couple of years ago,  by then they couldn't help me, I tried again last week, but still havn't had an answer. 

  17. 3 hours ago, Hadlock said:

    This was covered in these two threads recently

     Since you can't be bothered to use the search function I'll repeat it again here

     You'll need to find out which of your FFD displays are NEMA capable. It'll be the one with the blue and red wires, probably attached to your GPS's NMEA0183 output. This is spelled out in grotesque detail in the manual, which is freely available online in PDF format. From there you can wire in any number of NMEA0183 to NMEA2000 multiplexer fun time devices ranging from $150 to $250. There is a remote possibility that someone shelled out $$ boat bucks for a Hydra 2000 but not also wire it up to a GPS, in which case it is possible that yours does not have NMEA0183 on at least one of the FFD.

     Works great on mine. Best of luck.

    Thanks, I think our needs are slightly different. From what I understand you´re running H2000 as you main instrument system and you’re trying to complement it with additional data. I’m trying to scrap my H2000 processor and go to H5000. All I’d like to keep is my three mast 2020 displays. They work just fine and getting three N2K ones is £2,100 I’d like to spend on more crucial parts as a full H5000 Hercules installation will be a very expensive upgrade no matter what.

    I do have the a NMEA FFD as well as a Performance processor which according to the manual should primarily be used for NMEA input if available. But I thought they both required me to keep running the main processor for the H2000 system. Do you say an NMEA input to the FFD could be wired directly to the 2020s with no main processor? I thought contrary the manual stated that an NMEA input to the FFD might very well only show on the NMEA FFD.

    From the manual I read ...

    "A NMEA Full Function Display (FFD) can be used to interface NMEA 0183 data to a Hercules system. The Performance Processor can also be used as an interface for NMEA 0183 data to the Hercules System. The Performance Processor has two NMEA inputs and outputs, (one of which is disabled if the RS232C interface is required). In the case of multiple NMEA inputs and outputs it should not be assumed that data input to one device will be available for output from any other device,. E.g. Inputting Latitude and Longitude to the NMEA FFD will not ensure it is output from the performance unit. If the Performance Processor is installed on the system it should be used as the primary NMEA input."

    My "best case scenario" would be to scrap everything but my three 2020 displays.  Apart from the extra power consumed from running both H2000 and H5000 I'm worried I have to bother with multiple calibration values for both H5000 and H2000 for TWD/TWA for example. But perhaps I can set H5000 to send calibrated values and set H2000 to read them with no further calibration. 

    The “B&G H5000 Fastnet Interface” reversed would be ideal – but NMEA0183 to Fastnet would be fine as I can easily go from N2K to 0183. As Sailmon processors take N2K input and output Fastnet to old B&G displays – I’m looking for the exact same function but without paying for all the extra benefits of a Sailmon processor.

     

     

  18. 1 minute ago, Alaris said:

    Can’t fastnet accept 0183 inputs? Maybe the new computer can output in that format?

    The displays do not take NMEA0183 as far as I know - the old H2000 performance processor should be able to take NMEA0183 but I'm not sure which sentences it would accept. Also I would prefer tu run only one processor and remove the old H2000 and H2000 performance processor completely if possible.

     

    • Like 1
  19. 33 minutes ago, Chucky said:

    Go and check out the B&G website or contact your local B&G supplier There is a Fastnet to 2000 converter available which is only around $200.

    Thanks I have it, but it's only a one-way converter so I can use it to get N2K fram a Fastnet processor (in my case into expedition) but not to get Fastnet out of a N2K processor which would be the case if I bought the H5000 processor and kept my old Fastnet 20/20 displays.

  20. Is there still no way to convert a modern NMEA2000 signal into an old Fastnet signal? I'm considering upgrading my H2000 system to H5000 but it's really more money than I can motivate to swich everything at once. I would like to use my old 20/20 displays for bsp/TWA/AWA and Target speed/ Optimum wind angle if possible. Is there really no way to use the older displays with the new processor? I'm seeing sailmon can interface with both N2K and Fastnet, but adding a full sailmon processor on top of the H5000 Hercules seems like overdoing it. Is my only option to start from scratch?

     

     

  21. On 8/27/2020 at 4:02 AM, BobC said:

    Having supported H2000 In the US for a long time, a long time ago, something tells me that even though everyone remembers doing it they could not. 
      

    There are so many benefits to having a bi-directional link from expo to your processor that if you plan to keep it it’s worth jumping through the interface hoops to achieve. The parts you need are cheap.
      

     Try A&T in Lymington UK or B&G Service in Ft Lauderdale FL for advice and possibly parts. Once serial ports disappeared on laptops I used the Sealevel USB to serial link for years with no issues
      

    good luck.

    Thanks, I do have all the parts needed - before wifi I used to have a bi-directional cable with a USB-serial converter. Now I use a oneway Fastnet to N2K converter and a Yacht Devices wifi gateway to get data over wifi at much higher speed than NMEA0183 over wifi. But as it is "one way" I use a second wifi serial link to bring data from Expedition to H2000 (starting data/ layline / additional perfomance data and so on). For sailing it works very good as a two way system - but it can't transfer the polars.  

  22. 17 hours ago, Itsabimmerthing said:

    Just guessing here: to update polars you need to use HLink? Maybe you could find the answer at Expedition forum?

    I know in theory how to do it with NMEA over a serial link and I do have Expedition. But I'm trying to solve it with the FFD old fashion push button style. I know I've done it in the past. My current computer to instrument set up is a Wi-Fi "one way" set up - so I can't ask B&G to send the polars via the Wi-Fi. And I know from the past, setting up the system for cable instead is a lot of changes in both H2000 and Expedition so I'm worrying I might not find my way back to the correct settings :( 

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