Jump to content

fsiljelof

Members
  • Content Count

    65
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by fsiljelof

  1. I have the Hercules/ Performance processor - I can see the polar speed/targets/optimum wind angles and so on while sailing, but I can't locate them in my FFD. I know from past experience there is a way to manually update them from the FFD, but I can´t remember how it was done. My current wifi computer setup does not let my load the polars to my computer. In order to do it I need to plug in to the RS232 and change all settings from my current ones to baud rates, parity, stop bits etc. for the cable and I'm worried I'll spend hours and hours trying to get it up and running again
  2. I'm still struggling with reading my polar in my B&G H2000, I can see I’m using table #3 in my processor, but I can’t find any info on how to manipulate or even read the actual speeds stored for each TWS/TWA can anyone remember how to calibrate it? The options under TACKING > CALIBRATE only lets me choose a polar and scale it, not read or change individual numbers. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  3. Adjust targets/ reaching/ downwind performance. And write down a copy of it to use with Expedition routing, the polars in H2000 are even if the could use some work in light wind, far better than my current Expedition polars. Typically I sail within 95-102% of my H2000 polar unless it is light, in light air we do 120-130%, polars inside H2000 are from an old owner +10 yrs ago, but still good.
  4. Thanks, I have a full license allready, I use a yachtdevice N2K wifi modul to get data to expedition and a wifi serial link to get data back to H2000 FFDs, works great but does not allow me to download the polars.
  5. Thanks (I do have the performance processor, I can use my polars, but not change them). Cal > table type as above only selects one of several tables (ours is set to 3) but it does not change the polar values. I’m looking for a way to boost my light wind polars, but keep all +10 knots values.
  6. Same for me, but I’ve read the manual up and down now and this time I can’t figure out how to do it :-(
  7. I have an old B&G H2000 Hercules system, I know the best way to access polar data is via the RS232 connection. However my current setup will not let me and I would like to change it from the FFD. I know there is a way to manually update the polars from the FFDs. But I can’t remember or find information on it, does anyone know where to change/ update the polar? My best guess would be to use calibrate with something under performance, but I can’t find it.
  8. We currently only have a fractional kite, however we’re considering a masthead one for light air. We race only double handed and would therefore not like a pole longer than we can dip gybe, what’s the largest size kite recommended for a specific pole length?
  9. Thanks @r.finn we're sailing a Prima 38, not a big boat but the boom is 5,5m and the main is 50m2, so there is more than enough sail to make us think twice about reefing. Also I was considering a lock solution to save the 3Di sail from shafe
  10. I’m abandoning my bult rope main and am fitting a mainsail track (harken with cb cars) as I’m getting a new mainsail. We race double handed only (my wife and I) with a 50m2 mainsail offshore and inshore races and are considering a better option for reefing. Sail is North 3di carbon mix ... What are your thoughts on reefing and specifically... a) Single line reefing, is it the best option for shorthanded racing and if so what is the best set up? b) Reef hooks or locks for the boom, solutions like the Karver hook or other locks similar to halyard locks. Is
  11. Sail is North 3Di raw /carbon, so I’m thinking paying for less weight in the sail and adding extra with full length glass battens seems like a waste, rig is carbon, but the Prima is no lightweighter by modern means, so for overall weight I don’t think it will have any effect what so ever - but for weight up top / in the sail - I’m thinking less weight is better ...
  12. I'm looking for a DSC and NMEA 2000 compatible Black Box VHF (must be okay under ISAF Cat 3, so minimum 25w ), they all seem very expensive compared to "normal" VHF:s, anyone know of a good alternative to the ones below? Wireles extra hand unit would be great - but not really a must. B&G v90s / Simrad Rs90 Garmin 315i Raymarine Ray91 Furuno FM4850 The Icom-IC-M400BB is a lot cheaper but can only do NMEA 0183 seems a bit dated. The Navicom RT-850 looks like it's from another and long gone era - any experience with the RT-850? Any alt
  13. Any thoughts on how a full batten main will perform with swept spreaders? We have a Prima 38 with a rig very similar to the Farr 40 rig (clearly swept spreaders). We race only shorthanded and are considering full length battens for longer sail life and ease of dousing/ flaking the main .... we've always raced her with a bolt rope luff and only the top batten being full length. However after a few hard wind ocean races we do spend too much time and energy reefing (or should I say too much time reefed/ unreefed when we should have been set up the other way around) - so we're going with a n
  14. Jib zero would be 45m2, I was recommended a 2 ton halyard lock, and to have a bowsprit that can handle the same lufftension - haven’t chosen a furler, bobstay - most likely unless you think I can do without :-)
  15. @Alcatraz5768 any idea on how much carbon you would need to get a construction like that strong enough?
  16. @serioladumerili above was obviously for you :-)
  17. @Alcatraz5768 I havn't choosen any epoxy, but an isolated box with halogen light sounds like a simple enough solution - thanks!
  18. @solosailor thank you very much, super helpfull! How did you bond the two parts togheter? What size is the boat? Would you see any problems building for a 2 ton load for a 38 ft boat flying a jib 0 from a halyard lock and 2:1 tack in the bowsprit?
  19. What’s the easiest approch to building a short carbon bowsprit similar to the one on the link? I’m after a short code 0 sprit for my Prima 38. Do I need a plug and mold approach with two halfs or can I ”simply” cover a plug with carbon and let it cure? As it will be white, any imperfections could be filled and sanded before painting. DoI need to bake it in an owen or will curing at room temperature be okay? What about fittings, do I need to integrate stainless fittings to bolt it to the bow? And if so, how is that done properly? What is the best approach to make sure it f
×
×
  • Create New...