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Found 6 results

  1. Been on the hunt for a neat solution for rig adjustment across multiple boats with varying bottlescrew sizes. Trying to avoid carrying a full set of spanners around if possible (even double open ended). Has anyone ever used one of these things on rigging before? ie turns off turns on Vs Ds and Forestay? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Multi-Function-Adjustable-auto-ratcheting-Combination-Gear-Wrench/dp/B07F35ZQXQ Any other suggestions/hacks are welcome. Failing this is might go for a set of double open ended spanner and get an extension bar for leverage if needed.
  2. I am in charge of building a new mainsheet for a 52' offshore race boat (think TP52), with a "German/Admiral's Cup" mainsheet system (a la Farr 40) The old mainsheet was somewhere between 2/3 and 3/4 of an inch, very stiff and inflexible, and almost too big to ease through the line tunnel under the deck. What is the appropriate line diameter for this application? The Harken calculator with my ballpark numbers at 45kt said the boom loading would be somewhere around 17000lb. If that is doubled up then do I look for a MWL around 9k, or have the redundant safety margin of 18-20k? The dif
  3. Considering carbon standing rigging for my Pogo 12.50, but wondering if investment is worth it on a variety of levels. Anyone have any experience on the rating hit or thoughts on durability? Wondering also why carbon fiber rigging has taken off in high-performance big boats, but not so much in our size range (40 ft)... is it just price prohibitive or am I missing something?
  4. Hey all, This has probably been asked before but I can't find anything posted about it. In maybe 2-3 different places on my standing rigging (1x19 5/32'' wire; backstay @ pigtail, shrouds @ spreaders) there are small bends in the wire. These are like little kinks where the wire is not fully straight - probably due to a previous twist/bend when the mast was down (and the rigging was all over the place). I'm not too worried about the small bends - there are likely other places that are more prone to failing. Note: I am not sure the current age of the standing rigging - no obvious probl
  5. My partner and I recently purchased a Jay Benford designed 40ft motor sailor named K'AN. Typical of boats built in the early 1980's, everything is overbuilt (the hull is 2" thick solid C-Flex). She has a Gardner Diesel for power and a tree trunk of a mast. Surprisingly for such a heavy boat K'AN sails really well. She won't point but instead falls down to her sweet spot and trucks along at hull speed. K'AN is a masthead sloop with a permanently affixed baby stay. Would someone be able to point me in the right direction to figure out how necessary the baby stay is? We have been toying
  6. Hi Everyone, My brother and I continue to having fun getting our Melges 24 (USA041) ready. This forum has been very helpful in the past, so figured I would give it another shot. We are rigging up our Jib, we purchased a new forestay (old style) from Melges and we have the Harken furler drum. From reading the manual (Devoti) we understand that: 1. Jib should go clockwise around the forestay. 2. Furler line (in the drum) should go the counterclockwise. Where we are a bit confused is that the forestay has two small wire blocks (picture attached), any insight on rigging th
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