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I think that boat looks fine. I see about 4" of bottom paint showing and that's what I like.

My only change would have been 1.25" of black topsides paint below the bootstripe. I don't like the bottom paint to come up to the bootstripe.

I think the last couple coats of bottom paint creeped up with sloppy masking tape application until your " 1.25 inch " disappeared. I did that a time or two when I was younger and even dumber.

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I think that boat looks fine. I see about 4" of bottom paint showing and that's what I like.

My only change would have been 1.25" of black topsides paint below the bootstripe. I don't like the bottom paint to come up to the bootstripe.

+1 on the bottom paint not touching the boot top....

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Deck hardware continues to be placed and holes drilled for future mounting after the deck gets painted....

 

I was worried about the size of the cabin top winches as Bob specified 44's but when I ran across that close out on winches three years ago they had sold out of the 44's so I bought 46's. Well no worries as the 46's were not as big or tall as I had feared once I saw one fitted on the cabin top. (I don't recall anyone ever complaining about too much winch while sailing.....)

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Very nice boat... I'd trade mine for it if they'd move the decimal place to the left by one digit.

 

I think the pictures make it clear that one reason boats are expensive is you've got to make a lot of stuff.

 

Especially when they are one-off day-sailers.

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I'm picking thet Bob has some "rules of thumb" that he uses, and will not let on about. I'm also picking that the "rules of thumb" get adujested (sp) from boat to boat in a way that Bob himself barely understands, but works.

 

I think he has very long, fat thumbs.

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I think the pictures make it clear that one reason boats are expensive is you've got to make a lot of stuff.

 

 

That, and the incredible amount of labor that goes into a good paint job and doing things right, in general.

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Those 46's look just fine there Kim. I hate undersized winches.

 

I won't tell you the brand of boat but when they launched their 40'er and I sailed the boat I told them, "The primaries are too small."

They said, "We downsized them. The winches you spec'd are the same size we have on the 44."

I said, "Yeah, and they are too small on the 44 too!"

They said, "Oh, we downsized those too."

If I have learned one thing in 4 years of doing this it is to pay attention to the winch sizing charts in the Lewmar and Harken catalogs. They are correct. I like big winches.

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Those 46's look just fine there Kim. I hate undersized winches.

 

I won't tell you the brand of boat but when they launched their 40'er and I sailed the boat I told them, "The primaries are too small."

They said, "We downsized them. The winches you spec'd are the same size we have on the 44."

I said, "Yeah, and they are too small on the 44 too!"

They said, "Oh, we downsized those too."

If I have learned one thing in 4 years of doing this it is to pay attention to the winch sizing charts in the Lewmar and Harken catalogs. They are correct. I like big winches.

 

When I bought the electric main-sheet winch the Harken rep said: "You don't need a 53 there, a 46 will do fine......" I bought the 53 anyway and then he said: "well no one ever said 'gosh this winch is too big'...."

 

And the electric winch is right in between the two 53 primaries, so this way they match up well together.

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I know about the Parthenon's complete lack of right angles.

 

A boat in still water has a level line: the waterline. I always figured any stripe should be parallel to that line. That would mean it has to be flat and level.

 

Is the problem with stripes that if you actually make it flat and level using a laser line, it will look like it is not? If you make it diverge from the level waterline, won't that be obvious?

Think of it this way Tom: if you had a piece of plywood with a 4" horizontal stripe down the middle, and the edges of the stripes were exactly parallel, it would look like one even stripe while standing back 20'.

 

Now cut that plywood in half vertically. Move one piece of plywood back 8', and view it from the same position as before. You would see the stripe on the nearest piece of plywood as being wider than the one further back. It's perspective.

 

The same thing happens on a boat, its just not abrupt, as it is curved.

 

To further complicate things, you need to look at the boat at different angles, yet your perspective will change with each angle. Getting that boot stripe right is an art. Fortunately for Kim, Bob is an artist.

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Checking in after being out of town for a bit. Boat looks absolutely beautiful! <understatement>

 

After reading about getting the boot stripe perfect, I couldn't help but wonder what the final word on graphics was?

 

Just the name and hailing port in smallish simple font........Flag Blue in color to match the cover stripe.

 

I would encourage you to look at possibilities beyond the fonts you find on MS Word. There are some pretty cool options available, depending on what your looking for.

 

Go to myfonts.com

Type in Francis Lee or Bainbridge Island and see what you come up with. You can play around with it and see if anything jumps at you. They aslo have a feature that allows you to upload a sample of a font you like (but can't identify) and they will match it up.

 

fwiw

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I know about the Parthenon's complete lack of right angles.

 

A boat in still water has a level line: the waterline. I always figured any stripe should be parallel to that line. That would mean it has to be flat and level.

 

Is the problem with stripes that if you actually make it flat and level using a laser line, it will look like it is not? If you make it diverge from the level waterline, won't that be obvious?

Think of it this way Tom: if you had a piece of plywood with a 4" horizontal stripe down the middle, and the edges of the stripes were exactly parallel, it would look like one even stripe while standing back 20'.

Now cut that plywood in half vertically. Move one piece of plywood back 8', and view it from the same position as before. You would see the stripe on the nearest piece of plywood as being wider than the one further back. It's perspective.

The same thing happens on a boat, its just not abrupt, as it is curved.

To further complicate things, you need to look at the boat at different angles, yet your perspective will change with each angle. Getting that boot stripe right is an art. Fortunately for Kim, Bob is an artist.

There was no luck involved in selecting Bob to design the boat. I made a very conscious decision based on his body of work, especially his double-enders. (And the fact that I have known him for more than 20 years.)

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I know about the Parthenon's complete lack of right angles.

 

A boat in still water has a level line: the waterline. I always figured any stripe should be parallel to that line. That would mean it has to be flat and level.

 

Is the problem with stripes that if you actually make it flat and level using a laser line, it will look like it is not? If you make it diverge from the level waterline, won't that be obvious?

Think of it this way Tom: if you had a piece of plywood with a 4" horizontal stripe down the middle, and the edges of the stripes were exactly parallel, it would look like one even stripe while standing back 20'.

Now cut that plywood in half vertically. Move one piece of plywood back 8', and view it from the same position as before. You would see the stripe on the nearest piece of plywood as being wider than the one further back. It's perspective.

The same thing happens on a boat, its just not abrupt, as it is curved.

To further complicate things, you need to look at the boat at different angles, yet your perspective will change with each angle. Getting that boot stripe right is an art. Fortunately for Kim, Bob is an artist.

There was no luck involved in selecting Bob to design the boat. I made a very conscious decision based on his body of work, especially his double-enders. (And the fact that I have known him for more than 20 years.)

Perhaps fortunately was the wrong choice of words.

 

But I do stand by my artist comment, it takes a certain eye. At least I didn't call him an artist at the beginning of the project;-)

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Those 46's look just fine there Kim. I hate undersized winches.

 

I won't tell you the brand of boat but when they launched their 40'er and I sailed the boat I told them, "The primaries are too small."

They said, "We downsized them. The winches you spec'd are the same size we have on the 44."

I said, "Yeah, and they are too small on the 44 too!"

They said, "Oh, we downsized those too."

If I have learned one thing in 4 years of doing this it is to pay attention to the winch sizing charts in the Lewmar and Harken catalogs. They are correct. I like big winches.

 

 

Those 46's look just fine there Kim. I hate undersized winches.

 

I won't tell you the brand of boat but when they launched their 40'er and I sailed the boat I told them, "The primaries are too small."

They said, "We downsized them. The winches you spec'd are the same size we have on the 44."

I said, "Yeah, and they are too small on the 44 too!"

They said, "Oh, we downsized those too."

If I have learned one thing in 4 years of doing this it is to pay attention to the winch sizing charts in the Lewmar and Harken catalogs. They are correct. I like big winches.

I agree Bob. Having the correct purchase is always handy.

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I am an artist?

 

Damn, my hourly rate just went up.

Nice going CyberBob!!

Kim, just remind him that most artists are starving... unfortunately the hourly rate only goes up when you die!

 

And I see they peeled off the mast collar - I told you it wasn't stuck to the packing tape. Packing tape - the poor man's release film. I've used it when I run out of the "proper" stuff...

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I know about the Parthenon's complete lack of right angles.

 

A boat in still water has a level line: the waterline. I always figured any stripe should be parallel to that line. That would mean it has to be flat and level.

 

Is the problem with stripes that if you actually make it flat and level using a laser line, it will look like it is not? If you make it diverge from the level waterline, won't that be obvious?

Think of it this way Tom: if you had a piece of plywood with a 4" horizontal stripe down the middle, and the edges of the stripes were exactly parallel, it would look like one even stripe while standing back 20'.

 

Now cut that plywood in half vertically. Move one piece of plywood back 8', and view it from the same position as before. You would see the stripe on the nearest piece of plywood as being wider than the one further back. It's perspective.

 

The same thing happens on a boat, its just not abrupt, as it is curved.

 

To further complicate things, you need to look at the boat at different angles, yet your perspective will change with each angle. Getting that boot stripe right is an art. Fortunately for Kim, Bob is an artist.

 

 

Thanks for trying, CB, but I'm afraid BP was right. This is just making smoke come out my ears. Seems to me that a perfectly level stripe of even width would help your eye see the curves, which is the point, right?

 

I still just want to see how this stripe looks with a laser line projected onto it. Not that it's really important. It's something like reason number 1,042 that I'm glad other people make boats.

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Tom:

You'll see the result soon. We will not be using a laser level to check it though. I used my eye and that may not be good enough for you but my client likes it. I have explained my process and reasons on this ad nauseum here. I don't feel compelled to elaborate further. You seem bogged down in your own methods. So, sit back, wipe the soot off from around your ears and relax.You'll see.

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I used to paint aerobatic airplanes, same issues as boats in getting stripes to look right while going around curved surfaces. I tried a laser level once. After hours of laying out a complicated paint scheme with the laser, I spent more time trying to get them to look right. Last time I ever bothered with that method.

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Tom:

You'll see the result soon. We will not be using a laser level to check it though. I used my eye and that may not be good enough for you but my client likes it. I have explained my process and reasons on this ad nauseum here. I don't feel compelled to elaborate further. You seem bogged down in your own methods. So, sit back, wipe the soot off from around your ears and relax.You'll see.

 

I never said your eye was not good enough, Bob, just said that I wonder how a line drawn by your eye would differ from one that followed a laser line. That does not imply that the laser line (or yours, for that matter) is better. I just wonder whether you bend it up or down to make it look level, and how much.

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I think that boat looks fine. I see about 4" of bottom paint showing and that's what I like.

My only change would have been 1.25" of black topsides paint below the bootstripe. I don't like the bottom paint to come up to the bootstripe.

+1 on the bottom paint not touching the boot top....

 

On a boat the size of the "Francis Lee," absolutely. I saw that detail on a Rhodes 19 and thought it was a bit much.

 

 

Nice day in Port Townsend today. There was a nice presentation on the construction of Francis Lee by Bruce from the school.

attachicon.gifIMG_0753-small.JPG

 

Those Buzzard Bay 25s are gorgeous. I saw one embarrass a J-30 several years ago. Why, however, does boat have it's class name painted on the transom?

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Tom:

You'll see the result soon. We will not be using a laser level to check it though. I used my eye and that may not be good enough for you but my client likes it. I have explained my process and reasons on this ad nauseum here. I don't feel compelled to elaborate further. You seem bogged down in your own methods. So, sit back, wipe the soot off from around your ears and relax.You'll see.

 

I never said your eye was not good enough, Bob, just said that I wonder how a line drawn by your eye would differ from one that followed a laser line. That does not imply that the laser line (or yours, for that matter) is better. I just wonder whether you bend it up or down to make it look level, and how much.

 

I googled greek columns to try and get an answer... the science was too complicated and didn't seem to answer the question.

 

It's sort of like : Why should you have more yellow than blue when you put the colours together or why Did Greek statues move away from anatomical norms?

 

Because our eye likes it and we can't work out why.

 

I'm with you Tom; I'd like to put a laser on the, soon to be christened, Francis Lee and see how Bob's art works but I'm afraid there ain't gunna be no stinking laser levels. ;)

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With a little trepidation, I'll wade into the fray.

 

It's an optical illusion due to perspective and curved surfaces. Objects in the distance appear smaller, as is clear in this picture of receding lampposts.

Lamp_Posts_by_Summertal.jpg

 

When viewed from the beam, the ends of boottop (being on the centerline) are further away from the viewer than the middle is. This means that a dead straight line would probably look like it's slightly hogged. This effect is fairly minimal on a boat like the Sliver since she's so narrow, but it's still there.

It's the reason why a dead straight sheer line will look slightly hogged when viewed from the beam. Ben Seaborn's Thunderbird is an excellent example of this. The sheer is dead straight, but from many angles it looks a bit hogged. The rules of perspective are very simple and easy to define. They allow people to make detailed perspective drawings:

0002.jpg

 

And it's the same process that a computer uses to develop perspective renderings. Perspective views are helpful, but can still be misleading because they are flat surfaces, and often at a much smaller scale than the full size object.

 

The line also changes shape depending on where you're looking at it from. From below the line, it will often look hogged, from above it will appear to have healthy sheer. In both cases, this is because you see more of it's horizontal curvature in those views.

 

So my guess, is that when says he "bends the curve straight" he's adjusting the lines to the curvature of the hull so that it will appear straight from the angles he wants it to look straight from. If I'm wrong, I'm sure he'll tell me.

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Milo:

You are correct and you are also wrong. Mostly you are correct.

 

There is no "fray". This is between me and the boat.

 

I think you have a small part of this backwards. I understand the hogged effect. It happens due to the curvature oif the hull in plan view. I did HEATHER, the two tonner with a dead straight line sheer. Once on the water the sheer never looked straight. It did not looked hogged either unless you were on the weather side. From the weather side almost every sheer looks hogged. I prefer to say "reversed" not hogged.

 

But just looked at a big photo I have of HEATHER. The shot is taken from the weather side on a splin reach. The sheer does not looked hogged at all.

 

Note the dramatic non planar sheer on Garden's OCEANUS (RIP).

 

Back to the subject:

The effect I ran into on the Sliver was exactly the opposite to what you describe Milo. The boot stripe did not look hogged. It looked like a banana in the ends. It curled up in the ends.

Scott noticed this and alerted Kim. Kim called me and told me about it. I drove to Seattle and verified there was a problem. I fiddled with it. Kim looked at it. I drove back to Seattle and met with Kim and the painter. Together we made a final adjsutment to each end of the cove stripe so it looked, from a variety of angles, the way I want it to look, i.e. straight and level.

 

Am I making sense?

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Bob: Very interesting. When I was painting boats for a summer, I did a number of boot tops. My personal experience, was that the ones that looked exaggeratedly sheered on the profile drawing came out looking good on the hull. Those that looked a bit more subtle on paper had to be adjusted in real life - it was usually the ends that looked wrong. I never painted a boat as narrow as Francis Lee, (I doubt I painted a boat with a L/B ratio of more than 4) I suspect that changes things a bit. She also has a very flat sheer which might make even the slightest sheer in the boot top look a bit bananaesque. That's my tentative theory.

 

There was one boat which had two thin parallel lines above the waterline. It looked ok in the yard. But once the boat was in the water and had loaded its dinghy and windvane, and liferaft, and the dinghy's outboard motor, and jerry can, etc. onto the stern, those two straight lines made it painfully clear that she was out of trim.

 

I'm looking forward to seeing Francis Lee all painted up!

 

Also, Oceanus, has one sweet sheer.

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The rules of perspective are very simple and easy to define. They allow people to make detailed perspective drawings:

0002.jpg

 

I've been looking at Garden's perspective drawings and saying, "Wow, he was an incredible draftsman!"

 

I just read the writing carefully - 19'7' from station S (?), 12 degees off w.l?! He was plotting all his points like a computer!! No wonder it comes out so perfect!

 

I'm doubly impressed.

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Zed:

You got that right. Bill and Al Mason were the masters of the perspective lines drawing. Seems like I recall Garden laying out the process step by step somewhere. Bill like Al was a great draftsman although his style and Al Mason's were miles apart.

 

Milo:

I think what you experienced painting boats was that a curved line leaves room for error. A straight line leaves no room for error.

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Nice day in Port Townsend today. There was a nice presentation on the construction of Francis Lee by Bruce from the school.

 

attachicon.gifIMG_0799-small.JPGattachicon.gifIMG_0753-small.JPG

attachicon.gifIMG_0789-small.JPGattachicon.gifIMG_0796-small.JPG

Nice photos, Joe. Was sorry to miss the PTWBF, but after having gone for the last few years, thought I would give it a miss this time around. Played golf at a gorgeous course instead. I am certainly not going to miss it next year, when Francis Lee will be in attendance.

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Zed:

You got that right. Bill and Al Mason were the masters of the perspective lines drawing. Seems like I recall Garden laying out the process step by step somewhere. Bill like Al was a great draftsman although his style and Al Mason's were miles apart.

 

Milo:

I think what you experienced painting boats was that a curved line leaves room for error. A straight line leaves no room for error.

Garden describes the process in Yacht Designs I, in the chapter on "A Coasting Schooner." My copy of the book still falls open to that page from the time I made one of these drawings, came out quite nice, but took a long time.

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Say you want a two inch stripe on the waterline. If you were to float the boat in water and mask the hull on the water line, then sink the boat exactly two inches and mask again, the only way the strip would measure 2" is if the hull side is 90 degrees to the water. The more flair in the hull the wider the stripe. The result in a boat hull would be the appearance of the stripe bending up like a banana. The only time it would look 2" is if you were to sight down it from one end. This is what happens with a laser level.

If you were to take the first masking line, done exactly on the water line, then measure on the side of the hull up 2" all the way around, the stipe would appear to bend down in the ends when viewed from above.

The only way to get it looking just right from the angle the stripe is going to be viewed at is by eyeball. Done wrong and it will look odd but hard to explain why.

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deadbeat:

Not sure I buy all your thinking on that. This is not my first bootstripe. I have done many straight and many with spring to them.

I think done as it is now, adjusted by me it will look right from any angle. That was the goal of the exersize.

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Deadbeat is probably too modest to mention his "day job", but lets just say his finish work is literally second to none... this is obviously not discounting Bob's perspective (pun intended), just demonstrating there is room for more than one way of explaining/understanding this interesting subject.

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Soup:

I could tell he knew what he was talking about and his last line:

 

"The only way to get it looking just right from the angle the stripe is going to be viewed at is by eyeball. Done wrong and it will look odd but hard to explain why."

 

I thought was spot on. God knows I sure have had a hard time explaining it.

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Soup, thanks. I just do what I do.

 

Bob

I have had the same discussions with people and it is very hard to explane what looks right and why it looks right. I was trying to show two methods of getting a two inch stripe and how they would differ from different angles. How it would get layed out would differ from project to project as I'm sure you have experienced. Straight stripes around compound curved surfaces are interesting and challenging and if there is a formula for getting it right I don't know it! But I, as you, know if its wrong.

Great job on taking time to get this special boat right, well worth the extra effort!

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Zed:

You got that right. Bill and Al Mason were the masters of the perspective lines drawing. Seems like I recall Garden laying out the process step by step somewhere. Bill like Al was a great draftsman although his style and Al Mason's were miles apart.

 

Garden describes the process in Yacht Designs I, in the chapter on "A Coasting Schooner." My copy of the book still falls open to that page from the time I made one of these drawings, came out quite nice, but took a long time.

 

Oh, I know what the process is - if you know where every point on the hull (every intersection of a station and a w/l) is in 3D, you do a little trig (or a matrix multiply) for your eyeball-placement (clam-placement?) conversion, then another to project onto the 2D surface of the page.

 

I just wouldn't want to do it for (at my count) 16 stations includin stem & stern X 9 or so waterlines.... ouch!

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Say you want a two inch stripe on the waterline. If you were to float the boat in water and mask the hull on the water line, then sink the boat exactly two inches and mask again, the only way the strip would measure 2" is if the hull side is 90 degrees to the water. The more flair in the hull the wider the stripe. The result in a boat hull would be the appearance of the stripe bending up like a banana. The only time it would look 2" is if you were to sight down it from one end. This is what happens with a laser level.

If you were to take the first masking line, done exactly on the water line, then measure on the side of the hull up 2" all the way around, the stipe would appear to bend down in the ends when viewed from above.

The only way to get it looking just right from the angle the stripe is going to be viewed at is by eyeball. Done wrong and it will look odd but hard to explain why.

Someone is going to have to explain the process to me when I finally get the energy to paint my 4KSB. :rolleyes:

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Say you want a two inch stripe on the waterline. If you were to float the boat in water and mask the hull on the water line, then sink the boat exactly two inches and mask again, the only way the strip would measure 2" is if the hull side is 90 degrees to the water. The more flair in the hull the wider the stripe. The result in a boat hull would be the appearance of the stripe bending up like a banana. The only time it would look 2" is if you were to sight down it from one end. This is what happens with a laser level.

If you were to take the first masking line, done exactly on the water line, then measure on the side of the hull up 2" all the way around, the stipe would appear to bend down in the ends when viewed from above.

The only way to get it looking just right from the angle the stripe is going to be viewed at is by eyeball. Done wrong and it will look odd but hard to explain why.

Someone is going to have to explain the process to me when I finally get the energy to paint my 4KSB. :rolleyes:

Just fly Bob out for a visit.......

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Olaf:

Lyman's are very famous old runaboats here. I imagine they ride just fine. I would guess that model was built in the early 60's.

 

Mr. Bitches:

When the time comes for you to paint your boot stripe I'll walk you through the process. It's very easy. In the case of FRANCIS LEE the slenderness of the hull just added some excitement.

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How far out is keel attachment day?

 

Let's not get ahead of ourselves, Hobot. This bootstripe horse is only mostly dead.

 

(and as we all know, when something is only mostly dead, it's still slightly alive)

 

Resume the beating.

When trying to get a thread's path to turn 45 degrees I'll usually ask for a random recipe....

 

 

 

ummm, I'm thinking a basic dinner for the girls and I...any help with cooking up some beef tips?

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Swiss steak works for me but it's a bit warm for that dish and you need mashed spuds with it. And NOT out of a box!

 

My kids are carnivores, time spent with Dad is time away from Tofurkey and other misadventures into soy based products fed to them.

 

Swiss Steak, smashed potatoes and steamed veggies it is!

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Hobs:

Recipe sent via pm.

 

You need to stir it once and a while. Like every ten minutes or so. Don';t turn your stove down so low that the meat won;t continue to cook. You can't really overcook this dish= as long as you start with a cheap cut of steak. The cheap cuts have all the flavor. You just need to be patient with them.

 

Whenever I serve this the meat eaters go wild. It's a manly dish but I think you girls will appreciate it.

Put on some Mahler while you dine.

 

This is my son Max's favorite dinner. I think it is working. He's a healthy 6'5".

post-2980-0-54721000-1378769126_thumb.jpg

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It's not very fair to make me that hungry and not share the recipe! Would it dilute the charm of the dish to post the recipe for all to see? I don't think I've had swiss steak for over 20 years.

 

 

 


 

Hobs:

Recipe sent via pm.

 

You need to stir it once and a while. Like every ten minutes or so. Don';t turn your stove down so low that the meat won;t continue to cook. You can't really overcook this dish= as long as you start with a cheap cut of steak. The cheap cuts have all the flavor. You just need to be patient with them.

 

Whenever I serve this the meat eaters go wild. It's a manly dish but I think you girls will appreciate it.

Put on some Mahler while you dine.

 

This is my son Max's favorite dinner. I think it is working. He's a healthy 6'5".

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Shit Soup. I didn't know you were hungry. Here you go.

 

 

Buy some steak. I buy tri-tip sirloin but any sirloin will do. Round steak will also do. You do not want an expensive steak for this dish. It will fall apart.

 

ALLOW 2 HOURS COOKING TIME!

 

Buy a can of Muir Glen tomato sauce, buy two cans.

But one packet of Knorr "Brown gravy mix". Tghis is optional but recommended as it adds "body".

 

Cut steak into one portion size strips or chunks. Nice, biggish pieces.

 

Brown the steak in oil in a deep fry pan.

When steak is bowned dump in your can of tom sauce. Stir.

Tirn stove down to "low"

Add salt, pepper (lots) and stir.

Mix the brown gravy mix in a small dish, go easy on the water and add this to the sauce in the fry pan.

 

I likie to add some Worchestershire Sauce, a few drips and drabs.

For the adventurous a table spoon of Vegemite just to,,,,,well just too,,,give it some kick.

 

That's fucking it!

 

Now you let it simmer on the stove for about 1.5 to 2 hours.

The longer you cook it the more tender the steak will be and the richer the sauce will be.

If the sauce gets too thick just add some water.

 

This is Max's favorite dinner. It's a perfect way to scoop up mashed spuds.

It is really good left over and re-heated.

Yeah, you need to stir it about every ten minutes or so.

 

Bob P.

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Hobs:

Recipe sent via pm.

 

You need to stir it once and a while. Like every ten minutes or so. Don';t turn your stove down so low that the meat won;t continue to cook. You can't really overcook this dish= as long as you start with a cheap cut of steak. The cheap cuts have all the flavor. You just need to be patient with them.

 

Whenever I serve this the meat eaters go wild. It's a manly dish but I think you girls will appreciate it.

Put on some Mahler while you dine.

 

This is my son Max's favorite dinner. I think it is working. He's a healthy 6'5".

 

Awesome stuff! I'll know I scored a hit when they go silent and all I'll hear is them eating.

 

Mahler you say? They both remember being told about certain Composers by some tall guy.

 

020-3.jpg

 

 

Now, whens Kims keel getting attached? I'd like to watch that.

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Thanks for that! It's safe to assume that I am pretty much always hungry.

 

 

 

 

Shit Soup. I didn't know you were hungry. Here you go.

 

 

Buy some steak. I buy tri-tip sirloin but any sirloin will do. Round steak will also do. You do not want an expensive steak for this dish. It will fall apart.

 

ALLOW 2 HOURS COOKING TIME!

 

Buy a can of Muir Glen tomato sauce, buy two cans.

But one packet of Knorr "Brown gravy mix". Tghis is optional but recommended as it adds "body".

 

Cut steak into one portion size strips or chunks. Nice, biggish pieces.

 

Brown the steak in oil in a deep fry pan.

When steak is bowned dump in your can of tom sauce. Stir.

Tirn stove down to "low"

Add salt, pepper (lots) and stir.

Mix the brown gravy mix in a small dish, go easy on the water and add this to the sauce in the fry pan.

 

I likie to add some Worchestershire Sauce, a few drips and drabs.

For the adventurous a table spoon of Vegemite just to,,,,,well just too,,,give it some kick.

 

That's fucking it!

 

Now you let it simmer on the stove for about 1.5 to 2 hours.

The longer you cook it the more tender the steak will be and the richer the sauce will be.

If the sauce gets too thick just add some water.

 

This is Max's favorite dinner. It's a perfect way to scoop up mashed spuds.

It is really good left over and re-heated.

Yeah, you need to stir it about every ten minutes or so.

 

Bob P.

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Shit Soup. I didn't know you were hungry. Here you go.

 

 

Buy some steak. I buy tri-tip sirloin but any sirloin will do. Round steak will also do. You do not want an expensive steak for this dish. It will fall apart.

 

ALLOW 2 HOURS COOKING TIME!

 

Buy a can of Muir Glen tomato sauce, buy two cans.

But one packet of Knorr "Brown gravy mix". Tghis is optional but recommended as it adds "body".

 

Cut steak into one portion size strips or chunks. Nice, biggish pieces.

 

Brown the steak in oil in a deep fry pan.

When steak is bowned dump in your can of tom sauce. Stir.

Tirn stove down to "low"

Add salt, pepper (lots) and stir.

Mix the brown gravy mix in a small dish, go easy on the water and add this to the sauce in the fry pan.

 

I likie to add some Worchestershire Sauce, a few drips and drabs.

For the adventurous a table spoon of Vegemite just to,,,,,well just too,,,give it some kick.

 

That's fucking it!

 

Now you let it simmer on the stove for about 1.5 to 2 hours.

The longer you cook it the more tender the steak will be and the richer the sauce will be.

If the sauce gets too thick just add some water.

 

This is Max's favorite dinner. It's a perfect way to scoop up mashed spuds.

It is really good left over and re-heated.

Yeah, you need to stir it about every ten minutes or so.

 

Bob P.

Sounds great, Bob. I'll give it a try.

 

A tip for mashed potatoes. Just before you mash 'em with lots of salted butter and a dash of milk, try adding half a very finely chopped clove of raw garlic. It's delicious.

 

I've a great recipe for slow-cooked lamb shanks which goes with these spuds too.

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++1 on the garlic. I use cream instead of milk.

 

Bob, do you use a laser level to male sure the spoon is just the right depth in the sauce?

 

Jose, what a silly question. If Bob used a laser level it would of course turn out perfectly but (also of course) would never look (taste?) exactly right. He'd just have to go back and fiddle with it and fiddle with it until it finally came out right.

 

Bob of course just skips the laser level step and does it by eye the first time and it comes out perfectly. Years of experience here... :D

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I'll "third" garlic int he mashed spuds. You can also bake a whole garlic bud in aluminum foil for 30 - 45 minutes, cut off the top, squeeze out the gooey goodness inside and add that to the spuds. Great flavour and a bit more subtle than raw garlic.

 

I tried to sneak this past the mother in law (who hates garlic), one family dinner but failed. Ever since then I'm being supervised when we cook for an extended family dinner. :angry:

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++1 on the garlic. I use cream instead of milk.

 

Bob, do you use a laser level to male sure the spoon is just the right depth in the sauce?

 

Jose, what a silly question. If Bob used a laser level it would of course turn out perfectly but (also of course) would never look (taste?) exactly right. He'd just have to go back and fiddle with it and fiddle with it until it finally came out right.

 

Bob of course just skips the laser level step and does it by eye the first time and it comes out perfectly. Years of experience here... :D

 

 

He only uses spoons with planar sheers.

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Silly me, I thought my boom was going to be cream color.........

 

 

 

 

 

 

OK, so it is the zinc oxide or something like that.......



Meanwhile they keep spraying more paint on the deck just so they can sand it all off again.........

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post-8115-0-28483600-1378827707_thumb.jpg

post-8115-0-15310200-1378827710_thumb.jpg

post-8115-0-83379100-1378827774_thumb.jpg

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Yeah, I asked Tim how much weight was going to be added by the paint and he said: "Don't worry, we are going to sand it all off after we put it on....."

 

Does this make sense?

 

It sure does after you see the results of the topside paint job!!

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my dad worked for a long while as an autobody man. I used to help him paint cars at our home garage, where he moonlighted on the side for friends and family. Most folks have no idea how much work hard labor is involved in a good paint job. My arms still wince a little when I see a sanding block next to a 5 gallon bucket.

 

They're doing it right. Thanks again for sharing the build here and letting us live vicariously through the construction of Francis Lee. She's going to be immaculate in every sense of the word.

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my dad worked for a long while as an autobody man. I used to help him paint cars at our home garage, where he moonlighted on the side for friends and family. Most folks have no idea how much work hard labor is involved in a good paint job. My arms still wince a little when I see a sanding block next to a 5 gallon bucket.

 

They're doing it right. Thanks again for sharing the build here and letting us live vicariously through the construction of Francis Lee. She's going to be immaculate in every sense of the word.

 

Yeah, but now I realize I will spend most of my time in retirement cleaning her because after all of the effort they are putting into her appearance I will have a high standard to maintain!

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Silly me, I thought my boom was going to be cream color.........

 

 

 

 

 

 

OK, so it is the zinc oxide or something like that.......

Probably zinc cromate as a primer.
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my dad worked for a long while as an autobody man. I used to help him paint cars at our home garage, where he moonlighted on the side for friends and family. Most folks have no idea how much work hard labor is involved in a good paint job. My arms still wince a little when I see a sanding block next to a 5 gallon bucket.

 

They're doing it right. Thanks again for sharing the build here and letting us live vicariously through the construction of Francis Lee. She's going to be immaculate in every sense of the word.

 

Yeah, but now I realize I will spend most of my time in retirement cleaning her because after all of the effort they are putting into her appearance I will have a high standard to maintain!

 

Indeed you will! In 3 to 5 years when you start thinking about a good wax 'n buff, don't hesitate to get a recommendation from the paint guys at the yard. There are a lot of amateurs out there with electric buffing wheels that are eager to ruin a good paint job for a small fee.

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my dad worked for a long while as an autobody man. I used to help him paint cars at our home garage, where he moonlighted on the side for friends and family. Most folks have no idea how much work hard labor is involved in a good paint job. My arms still wince a little when I see a sanding block next to a 5 gallon bucket.

 

They're doing it right. Thanks again for sharing the build here and letting us live vicariously through the construction of Francis Lee. She's going to be immaculate in every sense of the word.

 

Indeed. A top quality job on a car can have 1000 hours in it - 100 hours just to sand each coat of primer.

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ST winches!!

 

Does WHL know about this??

 

;)

 

 

???

I have no pre-concieved notions on ST versus non-ST. The relative value of either is purely related to the context they'e used. In Kim's case, ST's are the right answer.

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