MidPack 116 Posted June 16, 2014 Author Share Posted June 16, 2014 on my picture , the backstay was almost fully pulled. thats why the triangle is small. But yes , its maybe too small. I will make a bowline like suggested to try it out. #21 is exactly the same as arr4ws shows, we had the same issue. First time we came in under power without easing the backstay, the tiller was badly restricted on tight turns. Could it be the rigging packages (Hall?) aren't all the same lengths? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
arr4ws 89 Posted June 16, 2014 Share Posted June 16, 2014 i would contact my broker to get in touch with Jboats and ultimately Hall. Im in the process at the moment , service is great so far. My broker (sunnybrook Yacht) is great. ( little ad for him ! ) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Christian 73 Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 i would contact my broker to get in touch with Jboats and ultimately Hall. Im in the process at the moment , service is great so far. My broker (sunnybrook Yacht) is great. ( little ad for him ! ) You need your broker in order to get a few splices made.................................? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
arr4ws 89 Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 i would contact my broker to get in touch with Jboats and ultimately Hall. Im in the process at the moment , service is great so far. My broker (sunnybrook Yacht) is great. ( little ad for him ! ) You need your broker in order to get a few splices made.................................? ? Hall and J are very interested to know if everything is working like intended. If no one tell them they arent gonna fix it. I also asked them how to start the engine, hoist the mainsail and the perfect ratio of milk for my bowl of corn flakes in the morning. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill's Sock Puppet 8 Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 i would contact my broker to get in touch with Jboats and ultimately Hall. Im in the process at the moment , service is great so far. My broker (sunnybrook Yacht) is great. ( little ad for him ! ) You need your broker in order to get a few splices made.................................? Hall and J are very interested to know if everything is working like intended. If no one tell them they arent gonna fix it. I also asked them how to start the engine, hoist the mainsail and the perfect ratio of milk for my bowl of corn flakes in the morning. Feedback to jBoats about any and all deficiencies of the design and parts selection, including rigging package, is a great idea. The American j88 was marketed to "people who have sailed for a long time, have plenty of money and have time, don’t want to race, but want a good looking, fast day boat." The correct milk to cornflakes ratio is a perfect example of what answers are available from jBoats. In contrast, the Viper 830 support team has a different approach. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
arr4ws 89 Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 I think this is what will make the 88 sucessful , a great community. Here we have what? 5 confirmed owners? I talked a lot in private with insails , Operator , midpack( who actually started this thread! ) and BSP . We need to share our experience with Jboats. Its fundamental to make the 88 the best jboat. And im not talking about whining , but constructive criticism. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MidPack 116 Posted June 17, 2014 Author Share Posted June 17, 2014 I just sent a polite email with a description of the issue and a backstay pic to J/Boats and Hall Spars to see what they have to say. When I get a response, I will share it here. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill's Sock Puppet 8 Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 I think this is what will make the 88 sucessful , a great community. Here we have what? 5 confirmed owners? I talked a lot in private with insails , Operator , midpack( who actually started this thread! ) and BSP. BSP is not an owner. His insipid comments, jaded views, and idiotic remarks in no way reflect those of the owner of Deviation (hull 24) in any way, shape, or form. I appreciate the cooperative nature of this thread, and I'm happy to share any ideas we have with the class. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MidPack 116 Posted June 17, 2014 Author Share Posted June 17, 2014 I think this is what will make the 88 sucessful , a great community. Here we have what? 5 confirmed owners? I talked a lot in private with insails , Operator , midpack( who actually started this thread! ) and BSP. BSP is not an owner. His insipid comments, jaded views, and idiotic remarks in no way reflect those of the owner of Deviation (hull 24) in any way, shape, or form.I appreciate the cooperative nature of this thread, and I'm happy to share any ideas we have with the class. Midpack is not an owner either. I am very interested in a J/88 and have some access to one (several outings so far). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MidPack 116 Posted June 17, 2014 Author Share Posted June 17, 2014 Perhaps a place to start with a J/88, though I make NO claims whatsover WRT accuracy. If anyone has better numbers, I am sure many would be interested. Also ran across a reported stability index of 112.4 & an LPS of 116.9 FWIW. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
arr4ws 89 Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 My crew is racing tonight , i cant be on the boat. My girlfriend could give birth any moment to our 3rd child so i need to be available at a moment notice. I should have some neat picture cause i will go see them on the starting line. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill's Sock Puppet 8 Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 Perhaps a place to start with a J/88, though I make NO claims whatsover WRT accuracy. If anyone has better numbers, I am sure many would be interested. Also ran across a reported stability index of 112.4 & an LPS of 116.9 FWIW. jBoats j88 Owners manual lists LPS as 123-131 (STIX 28.82-31.36) As per targets: I see no provision for DDFTTW? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill's Sock Puppet 8 Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 My crew is racing tonight , i cant be on the boat. My girlfriend could give birth any moment to our 3rd child so i need to be available at a moment notice. I should have some neat picture cause i will go see them on the starting line. take some good pics, good luck with "arr4ws jr." Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sailman 412 Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 Slightly faster than the ORC numbers: Perhaps a place to start with a J/88, though I make NO claims whatsover WRT accuracy. If anyone has better numbers, I am sure many would be interested. Also ran across a reported stability index of 112.4 & an LPS of 116.9 FWIW. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
arr4ws 89 Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 Upwind in very light wind compared to a melges 24 downwind dont ask me how the race went... i do not know Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Murphness 76 Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 Perhaps a place to start with a J/88, though I make NO claims whatsover WRT accuracy. If anyone has better numbers, I am sure many would be interested. Also ran across a reported stability index of 112.4 & an LPS of 116.9 FWIW. I really thought that thing would have a bit more speed downhill than the polars show for 16 and 20 knots. also the jibe angle for 20 is just a bit offI was wondering the same thing about the jibe angles. My only thought was that at 16 you are still in displacement mode, so soaking. At 20, you can start to plane so you're sailing hotter to keep it up on the step and the faster speeds translate to better VMG... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MidPack 116 Posted June 18, 2014 Author Share Posted June 18, 2014 Were there any comments on this (published by Quantum last Fall IIRC)? Looks like conditions requiring the heavy jib and the A3 (even more so) are limited. And I can't imagine not throwing in a reef going upwind until 27 knots true, guess I'm a wimp. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill's Sock Puppet 8 Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 One reason for using the Heavy Jib in the 13-20 kt range would be to "save" the Class Jib for the light stuff, you don't want to trash the Class Jib and have nothing for the rest if the season. The j88 is somewhat tender, the Heavy Jib is slightly smaller and flatter as well so it should perform better as well. In light conditions the A3 may fly better than the A2 because of the higher angle you will be sailing and lighter total weight of the sail. The one drawback to having a brand new boat is we have no delivery sails. We are bringing an old J10'5 Spinnaker and and older Soverel 33 #4 to Block Island. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
insails 1 Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 forgot almost that i promised to put online the pictures of our inhauler, (but i got a reminder, thanks) we took of the stainles rings and replaced them with loops wich we made our selfs , they still hold after some serious sailing. And no damages to the deck Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill's Sock Puppet 8 Posted June 19, 2014 Share Posted June 19, 2014 Upwind in very light wind 10498275_10152478741057604_7230368006405468385_o.jpg 10379806_10152478741037604_4445236342291087731_o.jpg compared to a melges 24 downwind 10353436_10152478741067604_5308531663810195831_o.jpg dont ask me how the race went... i do not know great pictures, I'd think a bit less heal would be better in the spinnaker shot Quote Link to post Share on other sites
arr4ws 89 Posted June 19, 2014 Share Posted June 19, 2014 Two melges were luffing each other. They were steering clear from them. Last one , really shows the beauty of this design Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MidPack 116 Posted June 19, 2014 Author Share Posted June 19, 2014 re: backstay I heard from Hall and J/Boats quickly. Here's where we are so far from J/Boats: "We are working on a number of design reviews for the J/88 backstay system. It does not appear you are doing anything wrong. It is entirely possible you have cascades of improper length. We are checking all design specs against what has been made and shipped with boats. We will be able to get back with you soon with recommended lengths/design." I mentioned the discussion on this thread for reference. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill's Sock Puppet 8 Posted June 22, 2014 Share Posted June 22, 2014 AutoPilot Bracket: attachment without drilling holes, rough version 1.0. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill's Sock Puppet 8 Posted June 22, 2014 Share Posted June 22, 2014 TackTick Bracket: attachment without drilling holes Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MidPack 116 Posted June 22, 2014 Author Share Posted June 22, 2014 Great pics BSP. I can see tiller pilot in our future. QUESTION for others, I need to figure out installing 3 B&G Triton displays in a Scanstrut ScanPod. My only question has to do with the connectors on the display backs. I assume there won't be enough room to use the supplied T-connectors without kinking cables and we'll need to buy 6 elbow connecters for a clean install. Any of you ScanPod owners know? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
arr4ws 89 Posted June 22, 2014 Share Posted June 22, 2014 Midpack. I have the same Setup. Just daisy chain with the 2 feet cable , no connector needed . I will upload my plan later today. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill's Sock Puppet 8 Posted June 23, 2014 Share Posted June 23, 2014 TackTick Compass mounting on Mast Post using 10x32 Black Nylon Threaded Rod and Nuts: simple, quick, nonferrous, light weight, no holes drilled. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill's Sock Puppet 8 Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 Anybody else find adjusting the cap shrouds difficult due the the proximity of the stanchions?+1. Absolutely. Try it on a J/88 with P&S gates, even more difficult thanks to an additional fore-aft stanchion brace! This may be a possible solution ... Shroud Adjuster using modified spline torque adapter* (these are not common tools but can be purchased thru ebay pretty cheap the size and length don’t matter, it will be cut down anyway.) I used ½” drive because I had an extra one available, probably a ⅜” drive would be a better fit. Just cut it to length and grind it down to a width of 0.375” What is shown in the pics is too long, we cut this off so it swings past the other turnbuckles. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bravobravobravo 0 Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 Per picture above, tt looks like several J 88 owners are using Scar Pins in shroud turnbuckles in lie of cotter pins. Did they come standard with Hall rig package? If not, do you know what size(s) are required? thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MidPack 116 Posted June 24, 2014 Author Share Posted June 24, 2014 The J/88 I helped put together did not come with scar pins. An alternative to scar pins or 'ring-dings' (cotter rings/pins) - just use string looped through all three turnbuckle bodies and tied off. I've never had one come loose in 20 years, and it's one less sharp to catch something. YMMV Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vogel515 0 Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 And why can't you just stick the tip of a screw driver in there and do quarter/half turns? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MidPack 116 Posted June 24, 2014 Author Share Posted June 24, 2014 Anybody else find adjusting the cap shrouds difficult due the the proximity of the stanchions?+1. Absolutely. Try it on a J/88 with P&S gates, even more difficult thanks to an additional fore-aft stanchion brace! This may be a possible solution ... Shroud Adjuster using modified spline torque adapter* (these are not common tools but can be purchased thru ebay pretty cheap the size and length don’t matter, it will be cut down anyway.) I used ½” drive because I had an extra one available, probably a ⅜” drive would be a better fit. Just cut it to length and grind it down to a width of 0.375” What is shown in the pics is too long, we cut this off so it swings past the other turnbuckles. Now thats fucked up. Who wants to go through that. Along with the back stay once again J boats show that they are great at selling shit tons of boats but that is about it. You would think that shit like that would have been redesigned from the get go on boat #1 if they did not want to invest the time to design it right in the first place. Sounds like they built 50 of them before they even sailed one. Having to reverse engineer a boat that costs this much is bullshit of the highest order. Flame away On the J/88 the stanchion and braces next to the shroud bases do get in the way of adjusting the turnbuckles more than other boats I've worked on, including other J/Boats. And the backstay could be better, and will be with some very simple mods. Neither is a big deal in the broad scheme of things. I've been on other boats with problems that really couldn't be corrected, excessive helm, very poor cockpit ergonomics, generally poor build quality, etc. Those are the ones you really have to wonder about. No boat is perfect, but J/Boats seems to get way more right than wrong compared to many other makes IME. That's what sells boats when all is said and done... Flame away Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cock Zest 0 Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 And why can't you just stick the tip of a screw driver in there and do quarter/half turns? This. ^ What the fuck is that ridiculous socket wrench setup? There's a lot of over thinking going on here! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MidPack 116 Posted June 24, 2014 Author Share Posted June 24, 2014 The shroud base (and backstay) aren't big issues, owners are simply discussing the best way to address them. I don't know an owner yet who doesn't love the boat, despite a relatively few minor issues. I posted a similar pic earlier, but thought it might be helpful for non-owners who've chosen to weigh in, who may have mostly adjusted turnbuckles on inboard shroud bases (like me until the J/88), or outboard bases without a stanchion & braces nearby. The pic shows absolute worst case (not what most owners face) - with an additional fore-aft stanchion brace for P&S opening gates. Rig tuning just takes a little longer since you can't make full half turns or more, not the end of the world... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Savage 17 1 Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 will this be fixed in the later boats? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Christian 73 Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 The shroud base (and backstay) aren't big issues, owners are simply discussing the best way to address them. I don't know an owner yet who doesn't love the boat, despite a relatively few minor issues. I posted a similar pic earlier, but thought it might be helpful for non-owners who've chosen to weigh in, who may have mostly adjusted turnbuckles on inboard shroud bases (like me until the J/88), or outboard bases without a stanchion & braces nearby. The pic shows absolute worst case (not what most owners face) - with an additional fore-aft stanchion brace for P&S opening gates. Rig tuning just takes a little longer since you can't make full half turns or more, not the end of the world... Wow - that is a not the brightest placement of a stanchion right over the shroud base - somebody forgot their thinking cap Quote Link to post Share on other sites
arr4ws 89 Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 Stanchion isnt the same anymore. Ours just have one leg going straight for the middle. Also this thread is very cooperative. We all collaborate to fix certain issues we have. We do it openly. If you all prefer we will do this privately without access to our information. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MidPack 116 Posted June 25, 2014 Author Share Posted June 25, 2014 Stanchion isnt the same anymore. Ours just have one leg going straight for the middle. Also this thread is very cooperative. We all collaborate to fix certain issues we have. We do it openly. If you all prefer we will do this privately without access to our information.Actually the stanchion config has not changed. From the earlier post/picture:I posted a similar pic earlier, but thought it might be helpful for non-owners who've chosen to weigh in, who may have mostly adjusted turnbuckles on inboard shroud bases (like me until the J/88), or outboard bases without a stanchion & braces nearby. The pic shows absolute worst case (not what most owners face) - with an additional fore-aft stanchion brace for P&S opening gates. Rig tuning just takes a little longer since you can't make full half turns or more, not the end of the world... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
arr4ws 89 Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 Stanchion isnt the same anymore. Ours just have one leg going straight for the middle. Also this thread is very cooperative. We all collaborate to fix certain issues we have. We do it openly. If you all prefer we will do this privately without access to our information.Actually the stanchion config has not changed. From the earlier post/picture:>I posted a similar pic earlier, but thought it might be helpful for non-owners who've chosen to weigh in, who may have mostly adjusted turnbuckles on inboard shroud bases (like me until the J/88), or outboard bases without a stanchion & braces nearby. The pic shows absolute worst case (not what most owners face) - with an additional fore-aft stanchion brace for P&S opening gates. Rig tuning just takes a little longer since you can't make full half turns or more, not the end of the world... oh right... sorry ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MidPack 116 Posted June 29, 2014 Author Share Posted June 29, 2014 Just passing along resources as I find them http://na.northsails.com/RADUPLOADS/J88/J88_QuickTuneCard_14_F.pdf (though I may be the last to find them). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill's Sock Puppet 8 Posted June 29, 2014 Share Posted June 29, 2014 Just passing along resources as I find them http://na.northsails.com/RADUPLOADS/J88/J88_QuickTuneCard_14_F.pdf (though I may be the last to find them).Cool Thanks.Does it matter whether we use PT-2 or PT-2M? Scale is the same I think? We were not able to get more than 43 on the V1s. These are what we used last week, they seemed pretty good: Light air (less than 12 kts) V1 D1 D2 -5, -3, -1½ (off from base) 35 15 23 (on PT-2) Base (12-15 kts) V1 D1 D2 49 18 32 (on PT-2) Heavy air (18+ using #3 jib) V1 D1 D2 +8 +3 +1½ (on from base) 43 24 37 (on PT-2) (Sorry we didn't make a fancy PDF) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MidPack 116 Posted June 29, 2014 Author Share Posted June 29, 2014 I assume you meant 39 for V1 base. And I also assume the PT-2 and PT-2M are the same gauge (maybe the diameter notches are different?), with a different label. I'll probably buy a PT-2 cause they're cheaper and easier to find, and tape a copy of the metric label on the other side... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
canstead 47 Posted June 30, 2014 Share Posted June 30, 2014 One question I've never heard adequately answered - why don't people just quote the Metric tension rather than x on y gauge! When you weigh something you don't say 2 O'clock on a salter kitchen scale version 4 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill's Sock Puppet 8 Posted June 30, 2014 Share Posted June 30, 2014 Base (12-15 kts)V1 D1 D240 18 32 (on PT-2) I assume you meant 39 for V1 base. 40, not 49, changed above One question I've never heard adequately answered - why don't people just quote the Metric tension rather than x on y gauge! When you weigh something you don't say 2 O'clock on a salter kitchen scale version 4 The spring gauge is graduated from 0-50 on a dial - it does not directly say tension, you have to look that up. Also the tensions shown on the Loos Gauge is for 1x19 cable, the j88 uses Dyform 1x7 cable, ... so basically it is easier to read the needle than to read a cross reference table. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
arr4ws 89 Posted June 30, 2014 Share Posted June 30, 2014 I read 49 and was like Damn! Its already hard to get 40 with the pt2 ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MidPack 116 Posted July 3, 2014 Author Share Posted July 3, 2014 Update on backstay from J/Boats (not final): "Apologies for not having a finished spec yet. We have been deluged with commissioning/summer season issues this week. I have been telling J/88 owners to shorten/tie the existing cascades to a length that will produce the best performance for their current rig/rake set up. We are testing a third cascade to increase purchase to 48:1 in the existing space used for the 24:1. Don't have it quite right yet. With this set up, rake changes are magnified in the backstay purchase travel required. I should be able to have a system for you next week." Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill's Sock Puppet 8 Posted July 3, 2014 Share Posted July 3, 2014 Update on backstay from J/Boats (not final): "I have been telling J/88 owners to shorten/tie the existing cascades ... should be able to have a system for you next week." Who is the "I" in this quote? The same one notifying j88 owners about the Harken and Antal recalls? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Schoonerman 6 Posted July 3, 2014 Share Posted July 3, 2014 We have a new J88 available for Demo at the shop in Alameda, should anyone want a test sail. Feel free to call me 415-867-8056 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill's Sock Puppet 8 Posted July 5, 2014 Share Posted July 5, 2014 4 Already signed up for the Youngstown Yacht Club 'Can Am Challenge' (formerly Level Regatta) on Lake Ontario. (Hull's 2,11,22,29) http://www.yachtscoring.com/event_scratch_sheet.cfm?eID=969 More j88's signed up than J105's Quote Link to post Share on other sites
insails 1 Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 Great fun a J88 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MidPack 116 Posted July 6, 2014 Author Share Posted July 6, 2014 Great fun a J88 Excellent. Did anyone note a top speed just for fun? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
krvisser 0 Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 Great fun a J88 Excellent. Did anyone note a top speed just for fun? The velocitek recorded a max speed of 22.5 ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster 0 Posted July 10, 2014 Share Posted July 10, 2014 4 Already signed up for the Youngstown Yacht Club 'Can Am Challenge' (formerly Level Regatta) on Lake Ontario. (Hull's 2,11,22,29) http://www.yachtscoring.com/event_scratch_sheet.cfm?eID=969 More j88's signed up than J105's 5 J/88's now. Hoping to get a couple more. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MidPack 116 Posted July 11, 2014 Author Share Posted July 11, 2014 Who is the "I" in this quote? The same one notifying j88 owners about the Harken and Antal recalls?We haven't heard about the Harken & Antal recalls, can you elaborate? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MidPack 116 Posted July 11, 2014 Author Share Posted July 11, 2014 We're about to install a ZG100 GPS antenna/ecompass. I've seen at least two J/88s that put it flush deck aft stbd, and that looks pretty good to us. Anyone else with another good idea? We don't want it up in the rail FWIW. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Streetwise 74 Posted July 11, 2014 Share Posted July 11, 2014 Not a J/88 answer, but I installed a GPS antenna just under the top of the companionway instrument row on a C&C 99. I used some double-sided sticky stuff to just stick it there and it got a clean signal without drilling any holes at all. You might want to see if you can get signal from somewhere underneath before you drill more holes. Cheers, jason Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster 0 Posted July 11, 2014 Share Posted July 11, 2014 We're about to install a ZG100 GPS antenna/ecompass. I've seen at least two J/88s that put it flush deck aft stbd, and that looks pretty good to us. Anyone else with another good idea? We don't want it up in the rail FWIW. Did you run into any interference issues with the magnetic compass and the stern pulpit? That's my only concern mounting an antenna so close to metal. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sailman 412 Posted July 11, 2014 Share Posted July 11, 2014 The pulpit is non-ferrous We're about to install a ZG100 GPS antenna/ecompass. I've seen at least two J/88s that put it flush deck aft stbd, and that looks pretty good to us. Anyone else with another good idea? We don't want it up in the rail FWIW. Did you run into any interference issues with the magnetic compass and the stern pulpit? That's my only concern mounting an antenna so close to metal. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MidPack 116 Posted July 11, 2014 Author Share Posted July 11, 2014 Not a J/88 answer, but I installed a GPS antenna just under the top of the companionway instrument row on a C&C 99. I used some double-sided sticky stuff to just stick it there and it got a clean signal without drilling any holes at all. You might want to see if you can get signal from somewhere underneath before you drill more holes. Cheers, jason Good thought, I may experiment with locations down below. We may only use it as our HDG compass anyway, we intend to use a Garmin handheld for GPS duty as we didn't see a need for a Zeus (and we can always add one later if we want it). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gracious 3 Posted July 11, 2014 Share Posted July 11, 2014 Hey MIdPack I guess you got a J88 what hull #? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MidPack 116 Posted July 12, 2014 Author Share Posted July 12, 2014 Hey MIdPack I guess you got a J88 what hull #?See post #1323... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Daimond 5 Posted July 12, 2014 Share Posted July 12, 2014 ^ To funny. A simple NO would have answered his question. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill's Sock Puppet 8 Posted July 13, 2014 Share Posted July 13, 2014 this is going down as one of our all time greatest finishes ... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sailman 412 Posted July 14, 2014 Share Posted July 14, 2014 STELLAR! this is going down as one of our all time greatest finishes ... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
left hook 5 Posted July 14, 2014 Share Posted July 14, 2014 Bill and the Deviants had the boat totally hooked up this weekend. Holy Cow! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Drake 0 Posted July 14, 2014 Share Posted July 14, 2014 Funny thing is Bill, you regularly beat about half those boats on Thursdays. Keep this up and some might think you are sandbagging to protect your rating! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill's Sock Puppet 8 Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 Funny thing is Bill, you regularly beat about half those boats on Thursdays. Keep this up and some might think you are sandbagging to protect your rating! There was a slight error in the scoring entry and we acquired an extra hour in the process. I figured we'd just take it as a throw-out and use it later as proof that we need a 174 phrf rating. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill's Sock Puppet 8 Posted July 22, 2014 Share Posted July 22, 2014 You will need: Ronstan PNP256 S/S lined Pushfitting ... $10 1" PVC hose plug (Lasco or equivalent) ... $1 Also you will need: Razor blade to clean up old sealant, drill and 3/4" drill bit, to drill out PVC hose fitting some 3M 4200, some gloves to make a big mess with 4200, some MEK and paper towels to clean up big mess, about 20 minutes Quote Link to post Share on other sites
arr4ws 89 Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 Wow Bill! Very nice ! I will do this! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill's Sock Puppet 8 Posted July 24, 2014 Share Posted July 24, 2014 Wow Bill! Very nice ! I will do this! The problem with the jBoats supplied Push-Fit Bushing is three fold: • the fitting is “all plastic” and pulling the line once in any angle but square will cut thru the fitting • the fitting has a 1” (25.4mm) cutout thru the bulkhead • the line size is 5/16” (8mm) so any aperture larger than that may allow addition water down below. I had trouble finding a replacement Thru-Deck Bushing with a metal liner with a 1” cutout and a 5/16” aperture: The largest cutout “push-fit” fittings were from RWO 9/16”, Holt-Allen 5/8”, Ronstan 25/32”. RWO, Holt-Allen and Ronstan make larger “screw down” type fittings with larger apertures but they would require drilling more holes into the bulkhead. Colligo Marine makes some very nice custom polished titanium deck pass thru’s just the right size, since the price was not listed, i did not want to ask. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jesposito 181 Posted July 24, 2014 Share Posted July 24, 2014 Wow Bill! Very nice ! I will do this! The problem with the jBoats supplied Push-Fit Bushing is three fold: • the fitting is “all plastic” and pulling the line once in any angle but square will cut thru the fitting • the fitting has a 1” (25.4mm) cutout thru the bulkhead • the line size is 5/16” (8mm) so any aperture larger than that may allow addition water down below. I had trouble finding a replacement Thru-Deck Bushing with a metal liner with a 1” cutout and a 5/16” aperture: The largest cutout “push-fit” fittings were from RWO 9/16”, Holt-Allen 5/8”, Ronstan 25/32”. RWO, Holt-Allen and Ronstan make larger “screw down” type fittings with larger apertures but they would require drilling more holes into the bulkhead. Colligo Marine makes some very nice custom polished titanium deck pass thru’s just the right size, since the price was not listed, i did not want to ask. Is it class legal? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Schoonerman 6 Posted July 27, 2014 Share Posted July 27, 2014 Sailed a beercan Friday night against a well sailed Elan 40 that rates the same 69 as the J88 does locally. That is one hard boat to beat in non-planing conditions, especially with the 12 foot spot. Convincing the owner to go do the argument at the local PHRF rating meeting. He should get some relief...thought not sure. This is the same PHRF committee that has the Wabbit Wule banning any boat from PHRF NorCal racing that doesn't have a minimum of 400 lbs of lead. We shall see. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
arr4ws 89 Posted July 27, 2014 Share Posted July 27, 2014 69... Thats harsh Quote Link to post Share on other sites
left hook 5 Posted July 27, 2014 Share Posted July 27, 2014 Very close to a J/109 rating. Yikes! I think that 75-78 would be a good # for the boat. 69 no way! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gracious 3 Posted July 27, 2014 Share Posted July 27, 2014 84 in Eastern Long Island 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
arr4ws 89 Posted July 27, 2014 Share Posted July 27, 2014 87 phrf-lo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dolphinmaster 166 Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 Dr. laura and gang took a 69 and beat up on the 109's and 105's out west in the Sb to Kh race. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Crash 1,007 Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 According to the mythical FP, that was a very light air race, so the 88 ought to have an advantage over the 109 and 105 in those conditions... One of the challenges of a single number system. 88 should do well in the light or when it can plane, so 69 ish maybe not too far off...but in more moderate breezes, where waterline matters, and the 88 can't plane, 84ish seems not to far off... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flaming 72 Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 Very close to a J/109 rating. Yikes! I think that 75-78 would be a good # for the boat. 69 no way! FYI, under IRC J109 in OD trim rates circa 1.029. The J88 is 1.036. From what I've seen racing against both fairly often I'd say that was about right. Certainly a rating slower than a 109 when the breeze is up would be a gift. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
first run 0 Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 entering Buzzards Bay Regatta with my new 88 this weekend-- New England rates it an PHRF 81 -- boats name is YONDER -- 28 signed up for the race-- Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MidPack 116 Posted July 28, 2014 Author Share Posted July 28, 2014 entering Buzzards Bay Regatta with my new 88 this weekend-- New England rates it an PHRF 81 -- boats name is YONDER -- 28 signed up for the race-- Good luck! I notice the regatta shows your rating of 87, similar to several other regions. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
first run 0 Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 that was incorrect-- it was a Narragansett bay rating-- 81 is the new England rating -- Quote Link to post Share on other sites
arr4ws 89 Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 whats your hull number first run? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
first run 0 Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 sailboat 35 ! sail # 8835 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Schoonerman 6 Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 NorCal PHRF's argument was "The J88 HAS to be faster then the J105 (78) so we rated it accordingly" Ok, if it's faster give it a 75.....69 is damn hard to sail to without some loooooong downwind planing legs to offset the uphill battle. The boat owner will make the argument. Still building results data. Dr. Laura had a VERY high talent level on her boat..probably not representative of the boats 'normal' sailing capabilities. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
first run 0 Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 why does the 88 have to be faster then the 105's -- new design ?-- its much smaller Quote Link to post Share on other sites
first run 0 Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 in my race group Saturday there are all j-boats-- 5 -- 105's, 4 --109's, and 1 --- 120 -- Quote Link to post Share on other sites
first run 0 Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 the j 105's are rated 90-- the 88-- 81 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MidPack 116 Posted July 29, 2014 Author Share Posted July 29, 2014 The J/88 will probably be quicker off the wind than a J/105, but hard to believe the J/88 will keep up with a J/105 upwind except maybe when it's really light air. I assume the J/105 will be stickier in light air, but then it's a 22 year old design. Time will tell... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
arr4ws 89 Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 No j105 , but we had very good results vs 36.7 upwind in light air. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster 0 Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 5 88's on the line at this past weekend's CanAm Regatta in Youngstown NY. Good pics here: http://www.timwilkes.com/search.php?searchoption=all&searchtext=CA14+Night%20Owl&searchtype=all Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Schoonerman 6 Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 Well, truth is we beat two J120's last friday night at the beercans. Both 120''s went the wrong way on a Bay tour course. The Elan 40 is sort of a gift rating at 69 (as everyone gives them shit about it...the owner is a great guy who happens to sail the boat quite well). Having said that, the 88 won't sail to a 69 on the Bay with average sailors aboard. I'm thinking 75 is doable. Have to get the owner to make the arguments and stick with it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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