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Hi All

I recently purchased a pulse 600 and have a few queries on rigging which don't appear to be in the manual. any help greatly appreciated

 

how tight should you do up the beam bolts, is there a torque setting?

 

between the compression pads and the hull meeting point should there be any gap assuming not?

 

how much shroud tension should be on when unfolded? when we rigged the boat last night and put the tension on the shrouds so the mast didn't flop around, we were unable to fold up the outriggers. we loosed the shrouds a certain amount, however the ream folding mechanism on the beams would not fold up and the outriggers were being pulled forward by the shrouds. we had to loosen the shrouds a lot before the outriggers could fold in. Will we have to leave the shrouds loose and then tighten up when unfolded for sailing?

 

we are planning to leave the boat on a dry dock in a marina. given the above we are a bit worried the mast will flop around even with the additional support wires rigged. when its windy the outriggers will also end up being pulled or forwards and backward putting pressure on the folding mechanism, is there any other attachment we can secure either the main halyard or kite halyard to on the boat to stop the rig flopping one side to the other?

 

can a code zero sail be used and if so which attachment on the bow prodder do we use for it as there are two. have you got the dimensions for such a sail and do we need to fit a bobstay from the bow eye to the bottom of the prodder to avoid it bending/snapping?

 

thanks all

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Top down will take longer (S'OK, though, you aren't racing) but will still need to have the halyard loosened some after furling before heading back upwind to keep the forestay loaded.  Be sure to clea

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My thought to fold outriggers mast up would be push the boom out to 1 side on the curved track use the topping rope and main sheet to release some tension to 1 shroud and fold

repeat other side, might work...dont pull the track of the deck I did the beam bolts up quite firm and could feel when they were i dont think you need to do them up as tight as a car

wheel nut...my compression pads did have some gaps but were still as close as possible and pressed firm to other areas i dont think you can squeeze them flat all over... remember

being a folding tri there will always be some movement no matter how tight you tension...the diagonal distance from the port stern out rigger to the starboard bow outrigger is over

7.5 metres!!!!  Keep that quiet otherwise if you store unfolded at your club i can guarantee at least 2 comittee members will want more of your money even if you give relentlessly to

the club... 

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  • 1 month later...

Sealion and Monomuncher, 

Please put some video of the boat powered up. I would like to see some more. 

This boat is still in the running as my "retired" boat.  You know, when I have time to use it. 

Cheers,

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On 7/13/2018 at 1:43 AM, sealion said:

Hi All

I recently purchased a pulse 600 and have a few queries on rigging which don't appear to be in the manual. any help greatly appreciated

 

how tight should you do up the beam bolts, is there a torque setting?

 

between the compression pads and the hull meeting point should there be any gap assuming not?

 

how much shroud tension should be on when unfolded? when we rigged the boat last night and put the tension on the shrouds so the mast didn't flop around, we were unable to fold up the outriggers. we loosed the shrouds a certain amount, however the ream folding mechanism on the beams would not fold up and the outriggers were being pulled forward by the shrouds. we had to loosen the shrouds a lot before the outriggers could fold in. Will we have to leave the shrouds loose and then tighten up when unfolded for sailing?

 

we are planning to leave the boat on a dry dock in a marina. given the above we are a bit worried the mast will flop around even with the additional support wires rigged. when its windy the outriggers will also end up being pulled or forwards and backward putting pressure on the folding mechanism, is there any other attachment we can secure either the main halyard or kite halyard to on the boat to stop the rig flopping one side to the other?

 

can a code zero sail be used and if so which attachment on the bow prodder do we use for it as there are two. have you got the dimensions for such a sail and do we need to fit a bobstay from the bow eye to the bottom of the prodder to avoid it bending/snapping?

 

thanks all

To be clear, I do not own nor have I done anything with a Pulse.  BUT, I owned an F242 for a dozen years and had similar questions and now own a SeaRail that has similar shroud system.

No torque setting on F242...probably not on a Pulse, either.  Tighten to snug, no need to grunge it in.  If going offshore single handed

The shrouds should be loosened enough for folding AND THEN retightened and secured again after folding.  There is probably a dihedral in play (like my SeaRail) so the ama actually goes "down and out" to unfold, then again, "down and in" to refold. 

If nothing else, you can secure the main and spin halyards to the folding mechanism to assist the support (mast raising) shrouds when leaving it folded.  If your boat came with hard points for lifting with a hoist, those would be ideal.  Probably should also use the mainsheet with a loop around the shrouds to keep the forestay taut when leaving folded with mast up.  If you have a roller furled jib, be best to fit a snorkel over it because I shudder to think of it becoming partially unfurled while you are away. 

You could use a code zero from either attachment, talk to your sailmaker.   If you already have a spin and a screacher, though, I'd hold off until you have more experience and know exactly what you want it for. 

 

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Hi all

Just to give an update on the Pulse for anyone interested. first race this weekend, 17-22 knots of wind, 3 up. great boat! down wind we hit 18.6kts, stuffed the bows a few times but that was expected in 1-1.5m swell, seemed to be very forgiving, much more so then my hobie tiger, sat around 16-17 knots most of the time. we only have the standard 25sqm kite which seems a little small we flew it with about 15 cm's foot line off and around 30-40cms off the halyard to get it to set correctly.

 

Upwind, hiking helps massively. we needed to drive off the leeward float a fair bit for the middle hull to start lifting a little, then it pointed much higher. Very similar to a hobie 16. speeds upwind around 10-11 kts. a couple of pics attached in the light wind bits. will try and get some more photos soon.

if anyone has put a bigger kite on them, would love to hear from you

 

09de0005-52d8-483a-85df-717b616565e2.JPG

ca3b81d7-ef4f-4c03-af37-d7eeef7243b3.JPG

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Thanks for the update sealion, you need some graphics on the side.

I will post some of mine as soon as they are done, sign writer got them  back to front.

I have 2 kites, i will check sizes next time i am aboard. one is quite deep but still furls okish  havent used the other one yet

18.6 now thats going to be hard to beat but i will give it a try..

fitting new garmin plotter soon as i have the time also i use pro start.

i have put the transceiver on a short u `upside down` alum pipe and slide it into the mast support bracket on the transom,

run the wire to the cabin, mount the garmin 10 inch on the cabin door so can navigate safely in shallow water and also find fish.

just lift it out and store in cabin when im ready to race, i use a 5hp tohatsu 2 stroke but also have a 2.4hp honda 4 stroke air cooled

so will give the smaller motor a try as it will store better in the cabin when racing

12 volt lithium battery light as.. pro start has its own batteries

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thanks Monomuncher, the kite sizes will help. I'm sure we could get away with another 5-10sqm for a proper downwind VMG kite. We are not using the furling system for the current kite as prefer to keep it in the "cabin/hatch" when not in use rather then have the end shackled to the prodder. On that note, you will see from the pictures we have put a bobstay on the prodder from the bow towing eye.  Another pulse over here snapped their prodder. looked like the carbon layup was still dry and had not been made correctly so watch out for that.

All our electrics are portable. We are building a new washboard to mount a velocitek prostart on which will be on the bottom with the top open for the kite. We have a hand held GPS mounted on one of our arms for nav which works well as its always with us on the rail. The engine is a 3.3 mercury stroke, its very light and we leave it on the back when racing as it clears the water when tilted up.

how have you found racing it with 2 or 3 crew? we are going 3 up at the moment. we think its needed in heavy winds and makes sail handling that much easier. 4 people will be far to many when racing but if out for a day sail should be ample room. 2 up is also workable but only in the lighter winds.

will post some more pictures as we get them

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

looks great. we are having a think of what to put on ours.

having sailed a few times now, we'd be interested in your views on light wind performance. We found it very slow in under 10knts of breeze. we had all weight forward and to leeward but it just couldn't seem to find a groove. We are investigating a code zero for light wind work upwind/reaching to see if that would help. Does anyone have one and what size have you gone for?

thanks

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2 hours ago, sealion said:

looks great. we are having a think of what to put on ours.

having sailed a few times now, we'd be interested in your views on light wind performance. We found it very slow in under 10knts of breeze. we had all weight forward and to leeward but it just couldn't seem to find a groove. We are investigating a code zero for light wind work upwind/reaching to see if that would help. Does anyone have one and what size have you gone for?

thanks

how many people were on board? 

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4 hours ago, sealion said:

having sailed a few times now, we'd be interested in your views on light wind performance. We found it very slow in under 10knts of breeze. we had all weight forward and to leeward but it just couldn't seem to find a groove. We are investigating a code zero for light wind work upwind/reaching to see if that would help. Does anyone have one and what size have you gone for?

thanks

I had the same problem with my F242...the boat is just underpowered in under 10 (actually, it just weighed too much--which might be the case with the Pulses as well).  What I found that worked better than a code zero or screacher for going to weather in really light stuff (under 5 or 6) was a windseeker-which is just a small flat (very flat 12% camber) high clewed nylon sail.  Not useful above 6 kts breeze, though.  The windseeker was also very useful in winds above 30 on a broad reach and useful on a close reach with the jib inside cutter style.  

  

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17 hours ago, MultiThom said:

I had the same problem with my F242...the boat is just underpowered in under 10 (actually, it just weighed too much--which might be the case with the Pulses as well).  What I found that worked better than a code zero or screacher for going to weather in really light stuff (under 5 or 6) was a windseeker-which is just a small flat (very flat 12% camber) high clewed nylon sail.  Not useful above 6 kts breeze, though.  The windseeker was also very useful in winds above 30 on a broad reach and useful on a close reach with the jib inside cutter style.  

  

thanks for the info. I think we are going to go for a zero which can be a big light wind jib and then reacher as the wind pick up. under 5 knts, we will be in the YC bar instead I think!

 

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4 hours ago, sealion said:

thanks for the info. I think we are going to go for a zero which can be a big light wind jib and then reacher as the wind pick up. under 5 knts, we will be in the YC bar instead I think!

 

That is my current preference, but when racing you don't get to pick the conditions on the course.  You might want to ensure the prodder has a bobstay for going to weather with any upwind sail flown off it...there are significant forces on it. Broke the bow off my F24 on multiple occasions (prodder also broke, but the bow breaking is more dramatic!).   A couple times it was waves being prodded that caused the damage, but a couple other times it was a very close reach with screacher.  I ended up reinforcing with 1/4" stainless plate but even that bent.

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On 9/4/2018 at 10:37 PM, sealion said:

looks great. we are having a think of what to put on ours.

having sailed a few times now, we'd be interested in your views on light wind performance. We found it very slow in under 10knts of breeze. we had all weight forward and to leeward but it just couldn't seem to find a groove. We are investigating a code zero for light wind work upwind/reaching to see if that would help. Does anyone have one and what size have you gone for?

thanks

decal of dragon is 2.5mts long    x  .500mm high

I have 2 furlable spinnakers. only tried 1 so far as have only been out 2 times will try other 1 soon hope it is flat as...

In light winds sail it like it is a WETA!!!... use the spin as a big jib, set it in the correct position close hauled top to bottom dont backwind the main, furl the jib,  and sheet it on really hard,

even pull creases through it, you will not get a groove in light stuff!

so loosen the sheets, head down, build up speed, and sheet on, outhaul on, rotate mast back in, as you slow down repeat. this will only work in light wind as your speed increases the fuller spinnaker will start to luff so then its quicker without it as you increase your height vmg.

 

 

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I am using a huge jib on my Pulse and it does miracles in light winds. I can always get to at least wind speed, maybe even 10-20% over.

We have many days with maybe 7-10 kts winds here and it is used a lot. On the other hand it gets quite ugly sometimes, as we tend to get huge gusts with more than double wind speed every 10 to 15 minutes... But Pulse can be de-powered quite nicely, so no worries.

On the other hand I thought I could use it as an off wind sail too, but the Pulse just won't generate enough app wind sailing anything deeper than maybe 135° true...

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On 9/6/2018 at 7:01 AM, monomuncher said:

so loosen the sheets, head down, build up speed, and sheet on, outhaul on, rotate mast back in

Umm in most beach cats you let off the mast rotation when flying the spinny  as the mast is stronger in the narrow axis than the wider front to rear axis, which is counter to what you would think. Also don't release the main sheet, that's your back stay and controls the top of the mast by the tension on the sail.

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7 hours ago, silvestert said:

I am using a huge jib on my Pulse and it does miracles in light winds. I can always get to at least wind speed, maybe even 10-20% over.

We have many days with maybe 7-10 kts winds here and it is used a lot. On the other hand it gets quite ugly sometimes, as we tend to get huge gusts with more than double wind speed every 10 to 15 minutes... But Pulse can be de-powered quite nicely, so no worries.

On the other hand I thought I could use it as an off wind sail too, but the Pulse just won't generate enough app wind sailing anything deeper than maybe 135° true...

Have you got any pictures of it?

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Hi all

 

we had a little beam trouble this weekend. We saw the beam rising a little when sailing so we did the bolt up some more. This was the forward starboard side. Next thing we knew the whole beam popped up. The bolt holding the beam into the metal plate had been touching the deck underneath and just lifted the screwed down metal plate. 

After we had a slightly worrying sail back with one of us sitting on the beam the whole way we pulled it out of the water to investigate. All four bolts had made marks into the gel coat under the metal plates so the bolts will pull all the plates off as they are too long. So as a fix we are getting thicker washers for the top to put between the bolts and beam. What’s slightly more worrying is the metal plates were just screwed into the fibreglass with no bolts on the back and a little sealant. We can reach the front beams screws from the under deck water proof compartment but not the backs. Not great build quality. . Have a check on yours if you haven’t already. 

 

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2 hours ago, sealion said:

Hi all

 

we had a little beam trouble this weekend. We saw the beam rising a little when sailing so we did the bolt up some more. This was the forward starboard side. Next thing we knew the whole beam popped up. The bolt holding the beam into the metal plate had been touching the deck underneath and just lifted the screwed down metal plate. 

After we had a slightly worrying sail back with one of us sitting on the beam the whole way we pulled it out of the water to investigate. All four bolts had made marks into the gel coat under the metal plates so the bolts will pull all the plates off as they are too long. So as a fix we are getting thicker washers for the top to put between the bolts and beam. What’s slightly more worrying is the metal plates were just screwed into the fibreglass with no bolts on the back and a little sealant. We can reach the front beams screws from the under deck water proof compartment but not the backs. Not great build quality. . Have a check on yours if you haven’t already. 

 

Might help to tighten the lashings on the shrouds some more.  Once unfolded, the shrouds should keep the beams down.  

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13 hours ago, sealion said:

Should be attached 

B784965E-7B5F-409A-B24A-52BC6E2653B7.jpeg

Thats poor engineering straight from a Corsair 24, I wonder if Corsair invented that or Farrier way back when?

If the beam can move it creates a huge force, need to shim it.

I wonder how a F22 looks like in that place?
 

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5 hours ago, Sailabout said:

Thats poor engineering straight from a Corsair 24, I wonder if Corsair invented that or Farrier way back when?

If the beam can move it creates a huge force, need to shim it.

I wonder how a F22 looks like in that place?
 

My 1998 F242 (Corsair 24) did not look like that at the beam ends  Perhaps they changed it in later years.  The pivot arm was mounted under the attachment.  But the distance between the beam end and the main hull was shimmed and was critical as that was supposed to take the ama forces and transmit to the main hull.  It wasn't always successful as the pivot mechanism eventually begins leaking into the cabin after a decade or so.  Of course, though, there was little or no dihedral in the F242 design.  I see your point, though, the leeward ama has loose shrouds no matter how tight you try to get them, so the beam ends are free to move a little so the forces are transmitted to the hold down and pivot arms unless the beam end meets the hull with just a tiny clearance.  

 

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13 hours ago, Sailabout said:

Thats poor engineering straight from a Corsair 24, I wonder if Corsair invented that or Farrier way back when?

If the beam can move it creates a huge force, need to shim it.

I wonder how a F22 looks like in that place?
 

Sailabout, you are really setting yourself up here as a moron flicking mud and references to designers and brands with absolutely no idea of what you are talking about. All the websites and forums and even google have the answers you want, but here they are again for you:

 

The recess pictured looks like a F/C24 but underneath is clearly nothing like the mechanism and engineering and scantlings designed by Ian Farrier.

The F22 is nothing like that and is totally nextgen with shorter and very different beams.

 

images.jpeg

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On 9/9/2018 at 12:14 PM, sealion said:

We also found some cracks in the port forward beam. Don’t think it’s structural maybe just cosmetic?

BA81DD50-FD3D-4BDC-A982-B472FABB3CD7.jpeg

Looks like you hit something and sprung the beam.  Doesn't look cosmetic to me, but should be repairable.  

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, the man (Farrier)  has left us here on the planet alone  - but I must say, this stuff doesn't look anything like my 2008 Sprint. I have never seen a small boat so well built...I was talking to a prospective buyer the other day and stating how not a single part of the boat oil-pans or anything of the sort. It's amazing strong. The beams and all involved are way over-engineered and I can't imagine what could harm them.....small cracks on the outside of them (side flanges) must just be in the gelcoat (in my case), because it is near impossible for those arms to fail (or so it seems to this wanna-be engineer). The way this thing is built, I have no doubt it will look very much the same (crazing and gelcoat small cracks aside) in another decade. 

Maybe I have too much confidence - or maybe they perfected a lot by 2008. Either way this is a little troubling and maybe they have to make some changes. The only weak (possible) point I see in my boat is perhaps where the side stays connect to the floats - obviously the glass around there is subject to stresses and some sort of large washers or plates have to be used inside and perhaps checked (something I will do next season)....`

I'm keeping up with this thread because a Pulse is a real possibility for my Sprint replacement (it's for sale....I need to downsize). Heck, I may even go for a small Frenchie thingy without the folding amas (Astus)...if there is not a bulletproof folding system. 

I hope the Pulse in question can be repaired better than new....

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Hey Craigiri,

I do not know if you want to downsize that much, however forget the Frenchie Thingy (see Astus 16.5 thread) and consider the NewZealandie Thingy. The Weta is a great boat. Simple, fast and fun!!!!!!!!!  Did I say simple? No folding or any mechanism needed.

Every time I consider selling mine (too many toys), it takes about 30 seconds to say; Never!!!!  :)

Cheers,

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

New Pulse 600 in Texas #55 Coyote III on Lake Travis (Austin)

We owned a Melges24 for 20 years (family/PHRF racing) and were looking for an easier boat to race at 2 (empty nester).

We love it!!!!! A bit difficult under 7 knots of wind but a blast above 15 kn. Last sunday we raced with gust > 30kn and never felt overwhelmed (did not even have time to reef through the gust)

 

Pulse 2.jpg

Pulse 1.jpg

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On 9/25/2018 at 7:20 PM, vaplaya said:

Hey Craigiri,

I do not know if you want to downsize that much, however forget the Frenchie Thingy (see Astus 16.5 thread) and consider the NewZealandie Thingy. The Weta is a great boat. Simple, fast and fun!!!!!!!!!  Did I say simple? No folding or any mechanism needed.

Every time I consider selling mine (too many toys), it takes about 30 seconds to say; Never!!!!  :)

Cheers,

 

A lot depends on the water temperature.  Yes, there are a lot of weta's in SF Bay, but I never even considered a Weta as a replacement for my F242.  BECAUSE, fortunately, a friend had one and I crewed for him several times.  Had to buy a dry suit so I didn't get hypothermia from the firehose of cold water pounding into me.  Exhilarating, yes...even fun with giggles; but not to own for me. YMMV.  I'm sure the Pulse is a smaller replacement for the Sprint, but it is much the same ride as the sprint, takes as long to set up and take down...why not keep the sprint?  I'm not sorry to have sold the F242 since I then followed with a Triak and Hobie Getaway and now a SeaRail.  Every boat has nice things about them; I chose not to get another corsair simply because I wanted a different experience, not the same thing again.

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On 10/10/2018 at 10:37 AM, Ric_Roc said:

New Pulse 600 in Texas #55 Coyote III on Lake Travis (Austin)

We owned a Melges24 for 20 years (family/PHRF racing) and were looking for an easier boat to race at 2 (empty nester).

We love it!!!!! A bit difficult under 7 knots of wind but a blast above 15 kn. Last sunday we raced with gust > 30kn and never felt overwhelmed (did not even have time to reef through the gust)

 

Pulse 2.jpg

Pulse 1.jpg

 

High wind videos, pleaaaaaase!!!!!!!!!   :-)

Cheers

 

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  • 2 months later...

Happened to be in Sarasota recently and saw a Pulse in person at the Sarasota Sailing Squadron.   It is a really nice looking boat.  I was really impressed by how good it looks and it was folded on a trailer. I am sure it looks better unfolded.  It looks smaller than what I though, which BTW it is a good thing as I like small boats. 

Anyway, it is back in the running for my retirement boat. By that time, I may be able to pick a used one up at a good price :D

Cheers, 

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  • 4 weeks later...

That is pretty dry compared to my Weta unless I did not read the instructions right. Great vid, and a great training clip for the guys putting a couple of Pulses in our Surf to City yacht race in a few weeks from Southport to Sandgate via Moreton Bay. 

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Nice video.  Seems not as wet as a weta, but certainly more wet than an F242.  Dunno yet whether my SeaRail would be drier in similar wind and seas (I do know, though, that my spin is much flatter than yours (didn't know for sure, though, until I saw the video).  Doncha just hate it when the wind moves forward JUST before the finish?

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  • 5 months later...

Hi all

We have changed our shrouds on the Pulse to a Colligo Marine set up so they are easier to set up from folded and adjust out on the water. We were a little bit tired of the standard fit ones jamming under themselves and then having to rerun them every few sessions as they got so tangled up. They are now much easier to pull on which makes me think about canting the rig when sailing. Just wondering if any other Pulse's have done this? and then I thought about other "enhancements" to make the boat sail faster, or to turbo it. to date we have:

got a big jib/zero we set from the bow deck eye (not at the end of the prodder so we can still set the kite) we have this shackled at the bottom and then hoist on the kite halyard. we have got a further set of sheets run inboard the shrouds for this sail. its great for light wind work or fetching in up to about 12 knots of breeze, over that its quicker with the standard jib

got a bigger VMG kite and we don't use a furler for it

fitted a bobstay from the bow eye to the underside of the prodder (another pulse snapped their prodder with just the standard kite up)

changed jib block set up to get a lower sheeting angle and close the leech of the jib

anyone done anything else to enhance the boat? I was thinking deeper rudder or float rudders, longer prodder, bigger roached main, sort traveller sheeting to could actually centre the traveller for upwind work rather then 3-4cms down which seems to be as best you can get with standard fit

 

Would be interested to see what others have done. Will post some pic's of our changes next time we are out.

 

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23 minutes ago, sealion said:

Hi all

We have changed our shrouds on the Pulse to a Colligo Marine set up so they are easier to set up from folded and adjust out on the water. We were a little bit tired of the standard fit ones jamming under themselves and then having to rerun them every few sessions as they got so tangled up. They are now much easier to pull on which makes me think about canting the rig when sailing. Just wondering if any other Pulse's have done this? and then I thought about other "enhancements" to make the boat sail faster, or to turbo it. to date we have:

got a big jib/zero we set from the bow deck eye (not at the end of the prodder so we can still set the kite) we have this shackled at the bottom and then hoist on the kite halyard. we have got a further set of sheets run inboard the shrouds for this sail. its great for light wind work or fetching in up to about 12 knots of breeze, over that its quicker with the standard jib

got a bigger VMG kite and we don't use a furler for it

fitted a bobstay from the bow eye to the underside of the prodder (another pulse snapped their prodder with just the standard kite up)

changed jib block set up to get a lower sheeting angle and close the leech of the jib

anyone done anything else to enhance the boat? I was thinking deeper rudder or float rudders, longer prodder, bigger roached main, sort traveller sheeting to could actually centre the traveller for upwind work rather then 3-4cms down which seems to be as best you can get with standard fit

 

Would be interested to see what others have done. Will post some pic's of our changes next time we are out.

 

Colligo marine setup should be standard for the boat (and for the SeaRail as well).  Anytime you have to fiddle with small diameter lines you will get frustration.  I made a similar system using Ronstan Shocks which is less expensive, but not as pretty.  

Sounds like a Pulse is a fun boat to satisfy a tinkerer's itch.  But seems like one design racing is out the window.  Same thing happened to the F242s.  I think that only Weta will have a true one design class-and even they are getting bigger sails put on them.  I guess it is a trimaran owner thing...we don't race exclusively so we want to get the most fun out of our boats that we can, and fun is subjective, so the mods are all different.

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9 minutes ago, Mizzmo said:

That's what I was thinking too, there goes One Design.

No problem. That’s what OMR is for. Very unlikely most places in the world get critical numbers for one design racing in these type of boats unmodified. 

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There is only one other pulse where we are and it doesn’t race. No others near us either so we are racing against monohulls on a handicap system which isn’t ideal but at least we can race. The local club has given us a local handicap which we can get nowhere near on under 15 knots of breeze but we can sail to it when it’s windy. Hence the turboing for lighter winds. 

If im honest I think the pulse is just too expensive for what it is to generate sufficient interest for one design fleets. It will be bought and ultimately owned by people that like simple sailing which is fast. We got ours as I had no interest in buying a racing yacht that went upwind at 6kts and downwind not much faster unless it was blowing dogs off chains. 

Coming from an f18 background a monohull just seems wrong!

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12 hours ago, sealion said:

 

1) If im honest I think the pulse is just too expensive for what it is to generate sufficient interest for one design fleets.

2)It will be bought and ultimately owned by people that like simple sailing which is fast.

3) We got ours as I had no interest in buying a racing yacht that went upwind at 6kts and downwind not much faster unless it was blowing dogs off chains. 

4) Coming from an f18 background a monohull just seems wrong!

Item 1 - Unfortunately true. 

Items 2-4 - Absolutely, totally true.  :D

Cheers, 

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Sealion; i've been very keen to discuss improvements for the Pulse too so your timing is impeccable.

Totally agree with many of the comments made. Here in Australia we have 4 Pulses, all on the East coast in the state of Queensland but spread out pretty far (some 1,800 kms). Two of these are ex demo's meaning Corsair have only sold two here. Of course both demos are now privately owned but even with the four here there's zero chance of ever having them ALL race together for one design racing :( . That said thou,  we did have three attend the Tin Can/Hervey Bay to Bay race but only two participated. I'm really keen to discuss modifications and improves to help improve against other multihulls i race under OMR and other yardsticks. I'll put together some photos/information on a separate reply

 

IMG_6525.jpg

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got a big jib/zero we set from the bow deck eye (not at the end of the prodder so we can still set the kite) we have this shackled at the bottom and then hoist on the kite halyard. we have got a further set of sheets run inboard the shrouds for this sail. its great for light wind work or fetching in up to about 12 knots of breeze, over that its quicker with the standard jib

See first photo (not the best photo - it was the end of the course and the winds were about to die) - I've added a nice screecher to the same furling system with anti-torsion line. Rear block set inside the stays which enables the Pulse to point nice and high. Given the size its only good in 10-12kts, anything above and its just too much and like you say - the jib and main alone work better without it. I run it without jib of course.

Quote

got a bigger VMG kite and we don't use a furler for it

See second photo. I've just ordered a nice larger spinnaker for light dead downwind sailing. The standard asym kite is great for broad reaching downwind in a 10kt+ blow but useless in low/dead down wind courses. I've just added some bow tangs for this kite which i could perhaps also use with the standard asym kite. This will help bring the kite around the main. I'm yet to use these but keen to get out once I get the kite. Yet to workout the line systems too but it will likely have no furlers and retrievable to the cockpit for changing kites.

Quote

fitted a bobstay from the bow eye to the underside of the prodder (another pulse snapped their prodder with just the standard kite up)

I haven't added an actual bobstay but have added some dyneema lines to support the bow sprit. I may do this soon thou so interested to see your setup.

Quote

changed jib block set up to get a lower sheeting angle and close the leech of the jib

Keen to see what you have done here too. Its amazing that these boats cost so much yet there's been so much afterthought regarding rigging and setup. The jib could certainly be setup better.

 

Now going back to your comments about the added  Colligo Marine set up. I did have alot of issues with the overall rig and rig tension but have since realised/worked out its all in the tensioner in the forestay. I have the standard set stays, raise mast, then tension rig using the forestay adjuster above the jib furler. So far my rig tension has been great ever since adjusting each time I rig/de-rig. I've also found that I can not just unbolt one size of the Pulse and fold to then unbolt and fold the other. Both size/armas must be unbolted at the same time.

B2B19 Jules Vid Pic Pro-8556.jpg

IMG_7044.jpg

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IMG_5925.JPG.32f62f82ab917df71dc426b2e345956b.JPG

2 hours ago, SpearHead said:

Sealion; i've been very keen to discuss improvements for the Pulse too so your timing is impeccable.

Totally agree with many of the comments made. Here in Australia we have 4 Pulses, all on the East coast in the state of Queensland but spread out pretty far (some 1,800 kms). Two of these are ex demo's meaning Corsair have only sold two here. Of course both demos are now privately owned but even with the four here there's zero chance of ever having them ALL race together for one design racing :( . That said thou,  we did have three attend the Tin Can/Hervey Bay to Bay race but only two participated. I'm really keen to discuss modifications and improves to help improve against other multihulls i race under OMR and other yardsticks. I'll put together some photos/information on a separate reply

 

IMG_6525.jpg

 

IMG_5926.JPG

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Upwind in 10 kn is a blast, I am surprised about the comment on not being able to sheet in enough. in 10kn we trim the jib with ~5cm left and do not feel that trimming inside is more efficient. We found that the key to upwind speed is the jib's cunningham (stock Doyle jib).

We changed the main and the jib haylards to vectran.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hello all, my first post-I have a red 2016 Pulse in Oklahoma City. I have enjoyed reading this thread. I am not sure how to list it but I have a brand new spinaker and control system for this boat I have never used and looking to pass it on to a sailor with a bigger lake-please PM me for info. THanks

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On 7/17/2019 at 10:35 AM, Mizzmo said:

That's what I was thinking too, there goes One Design.

Yup, sigh... Tis my only nit against Corsair.  Richard Ward just doesn't get it.  Can even see that in the evolving dealer network.  Great boats though!!

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15 hours ago, Wess said:

Yup, sigh... Tis my only nit against Corsair.  Richard Ward just doesn't get it.  Can even see that in the evolving dealer network.  Great boats though!!

Corsair has sold something like 2,000 boats, probably sold more tris than all other companies combined.  Just a guess but I doubt 500 of them have been raced in an organized race (not counting laughing as they pass mononhulls  on the same course).  In general I doubt if 5% of all the sailboats have been raced.  As a kid I raced several different OD boats including a Southeaster I built.  But as I grew older racing became much less of a draw and cruising was much more so.  Not to mention how much it costs to race even in OD classes.  What he gets is staying in business.  

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I see so many 1 design fleets that have not evolved, slowly drop in numbers as newer designs take over, weta has been smart to evolve.

The New Pulse 600 is now $100,000.00 Aussie dollars with all the bells and whistles, lot of money to build a fleet so i agree with spearhead

about keeping pace to remain competitive

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It all depends on what a company's goal is. If you want to sell a lot of boats, like Hobie did with the H16, then the bulk of the market is for a multi-hull in the 16 to 18 foot range, easy to rig and de-rig, easy to trailer and that sells for under $25K. Multi-Hulls of 20 feet and longer that sell for $40,000+ will have limited appeal and low volume sales. Just depends on what market a company is targeting.

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47 minutes ago, Tom Kirkman said:

It all depends on what a company's goal is. If you want to sell a lot of boats, like Hobie did with the H16, then the bulk of the market is for a multi-hull in the 16 to 18 foot range, easy to rig and de-rig, easy to trailer and that sells for under $25K. Multi-Hulls of 20 feet and longer that sell for $40,000+ will have limited appeal and low volume sales. Just depends on what market a company is targeting.

Agree, plus the market is shrinking since sailing fast is what attracted people to cats and tris...now fast is possible with small monohulls, kiteboards, and of course , the new kid on the block, foiling.  Spearhead is right, as well, folks spend a lot less time racing than other things to do with their boats, so making them more fun is the rule, rather than the exception.  

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Maybe you folks don’t remember back when the Corsair F28s were an OD fleet in KWRW. That sold me and many other on Corsair. And those same customers moved up and bought multiple boats from them as we went cruising. I could name many. But then Corsair stopped supporting it and the fleet went PHRF and you ended up with tinkerers and engineers who kept tweaking boats. OD folks all left. If Corsair embraced and supported true OD racers in one of their smaller boats they could do what J70s do. But that ain’t who buys Corsairs anymore. Not my circus and not my monkeys. 

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What electronic installations are people using on their Pulses? I'm keen to install something which measures depth and speed. I've been looking at the Raymarine series but i'm not set on anything just yet. Currently using Navionics on an iPad in waterproof casing.

Concerns are: my Pulse sits on a flatbed type trailer and also cutting into hulls - obviously current access is aft (too far back) and the storage under the cuddy.

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I use a garmin i have a lithium battery i store in the cabin, mount the garmin on the cabin door, i made an aluminum pipe to go into the mast support with the transponder 

on the pipe kinda like an upside down U and just run the cable back to the cabin, the transponder bracket just lifts in and out of the mast support tube, chuck the whole thing in the

cabin when u dont need it.

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we use a Velocitek prostart. Its currently on a fabricated bottom wash board however it gets in the way there, we are thinking about putting it on a bracket behind the traveller facing forwards as it wont get in the way there. we don't have a log. we also use Garmin GPS watches which are very hand for looking at speed, distance to mark, VMG etc when on the "rail"

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On 8/18/2019 at 5:15 AM, Wess said:

Maybe you folks don’t remember back when the Corsair F28s were an OD fleet in KWRW. That sold me and many other on Corsair. And those same customers moved up and bought multiple boats from them as we went cruising. I could name many. But then Corsair stopped supporting it and the fleet went PHRF and you ended up with tinkerers and engineers who kept tweaking boats. OD folks all left. If Corsair embraced and supported true OD racers in one of their smaller boats they could do what J70s do. But that ain’t who buys Corsairs anymore. Not my circus and not my monkeys. 

true
I said to Richard before the pulse was released you need one design rules posted if you want the pulse to be a continuing success but nothing...
The other models need the same

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Holy Crap! If MONOMUNCHER is correct ( and I have no reason to doubt him ) then at today's conversion ( .68 ) the Pulse, loaded, tips the scales at approx 68K U.S.  That number should be a clear indication of the problem. Everything else mentioned just makes it worse. Are we all , in different ways, killing the sport we have loved for so long? 

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10 minutes ago, xonk1 said:

Holy Crap! If MONOMUNCHER is correct ( and I have no reason to doubt him ) then at today's conversion ( .68 ) the Pulse, loaded, tips the scales at approx 68K U.S.  That number should be a clear indication of the problem. Everything else mentioned just makes it worse. Are we all , in different ways, killing the sport we have loved for so long? 

Ya..... fucking boatbuilders don't need to eat or pay bills.

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1 hour ago, xonk1 said:

Holy Crap! If MONOMUNCHER is correct ( and I have no reason to doubt him ) then at today's conversion ( .68 ) the Pulse, loaded, tips the scales at approx 68K U.S.  That number should be a clear indication of the problem. Everything else mentioned just makes it worse. Are we all , in different ways, killing the sport we have loved for so long? 

100k is alittle exaggerated, $75,000 AUS is closer. I was quoted this 16mths ago???

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i was quoted that price several weeks ago from multihull australia as i am listing my pulse with them soon as 

hamilton is done, i guess they would know what they sell them for as they are the agents, the weak aus/us dollar

may be the cause, they are built in Vietnam could be another reason.

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12 hours ago, Sailabout said:

true
I said to Richard before the pulse was released you need one design rules posted if you want the pulse to be a continuing success but nothing...
The other models need the same

I don't know that they all do.  Doubt it actually as so many of their customers are engineer hippie cruisers (no judgement intended or implied) and like tweaking and have no interest in OD.  But one class.  A day sailor that doubles as an OD racers.  Focus on NOODs in US.

Oh and they are near $50K in the US per this:  https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/2019/corsair-pulse-600-3163995/?refSource=enhanced listing

I think you are paying similar for a J70 but of course that comes with an OD fleet and J boats commitment to the acing side of the sport.

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1 hour ago, Wess said:

You might still get a SeaRail (similar size, similar performance (actually a little faster in lighter breezes), prettier (IMO)) for 30K US or so.  Made in Ho Chi Minh city just down the road from the Corsair manufactory.  Of course, there are so few SeaRails that OD is not possible (I think there might be 15 in the world) and that isn't the niche SeaRail is aiming for in any event, each production run introduced some change (mine was the first to fold).  SeaRail mantra is "performance by design".   Basketcase is a little off, we want boatbuilders to eat, just don't want them to be rich on our dimes.  The fact that SeaRail can sell for 20K less than a Corsair Pulse tells you that the profit margin for Corsair boats is much bigger.  Especially since Corsairs have "no name" sailplans and "no name" boat designs while SeaRail has Randy Smyth sailplans and Nigel Irens boat design.   

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13 minutes ago, MultiThom said:

You might still get a SeaRail (similar size, similar performance (actually a little faster in lighter breezes), prettier (IMO)) for 30K US or so.  Made in Ho Chi Minh city just down the road from the Corsair manufactory.  Of course, there are so few SeaRails that OD is not possible (I think there might be 15 in the world) and that isn't the niche SeaRail is aiming for in any event, each production run introduced some change (mine was the first to fold).  SeaRail mantra is "performance by design".   Basketcase is a little off, we want boatbuilders to eat, just don't want them to be rich on our dimes.  The fact that SeaRail can sell for 20K less than a Corsair Pulse tells you that the profit margin for Corsair boats is much bigger.  Especially since Corsairs have "no name" sailplans and "no name" boat designs while SeaRail has Randy Smyth sailplans and Nigel Irens boat design.   

Do you argue with your mechanic charging you $120 an hour to work on your car?

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On 7/17/2019 at 4:00 PM, sealion said:

Hi all

We have changed our shrouds on the Pulse to a Colligo Marine set up so they are easier to set up from folded and adjust out on the water. We were a little bit tired of the standard fit ones jamming under themselves and then having to rerun them every few sessions as they got so tangled up. They are now much easier to pull on which makes me think about canting the rig when sailing. Just wondering if any other Pulse's have done this? and then I thought about other "enhancements" to make the boat sail faster, or to turbo it. to date we have:

got a big jib/zero we set from the bow deck eye (not at the end of the prodder so we can still set the kite) we have this shackled at the bottom and then hoist on the kite halyard. we have got a further set of sheets run inboard the shrouds for this sail. its great for light wind work or fetching in up to about 12 knots of breeze, over that its quicker with the standard jib

got a bigger VMG kite and we don't use a furler for it

fitted a bobstay from the bow eye to the underside of the prodder (another pulse snapped their prodder with just the standard kite up)

changed jib block set up to get a lower sheeting angle and close the leech of the jib

anyone done anything else to enhance the boat? I was thinking deeper rudder or float rudders, longer prodder, bigger roached main, sort traveller sheeting to could actually centre the traveller for upwind work rather then 3-4cms down which seems to be as best you can get with standard fit

 

Would be interested to see what others have done. Will post some pic's of our changes next time we are out.

 

Hi. Could you pLease send me pictures of your Colligo shrouds and the link to this product? I‘m looking for an adjusting system. Thx

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8 minutes ago, basketcase said:

Do you argue with your mechanic charging you $120 an hour to work on your car?

No, he's gotta eat, but he lives down the road from me in a similar house.  And he doesn't get the whole 120 an hour, he gets paid about 1/3 of that.  Another 1/3 goes to the infrastructure (shop, consumables...) and the final 1/3 to corporate overhead (the top guy is the guy who is rich).

 

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11 minutes ago, fastsailor600 said:

Hi. Could you pLease send me pictures of your Colligo shrouds and the link to this product? I‘m looking for an adjusting system. Thx

https://www.colligomarine.com/products/terminator-11-13mm-black

I think the Pulse uses the smallest terminators.  You can make your own but they aren't as pretty by simply looping some dyneema through larger Ronstan shocks http://smalltrimarans.com/blog/follow-up-to-fiber-rigging-post/

 

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1 hour ago, fastsailor600 said:

Hi again and thx. Is there also a system for quick release?

I only know of Hifield levers for that.  (https://www.strictlysailinc.com/product/shroud-extender-quick-release-hyfield-lever-14-holes/)  Mebe someone invented a non metal system that does the same thing (you could do with rings and snapshackles--but I'd be leery of snapshackles holding up the rig).   Hyfields only adjust a couple inches and I think you need something longer for complete release.   Switching to the colligo will make tensioning and detentioning quicker since the lines won't bind as you tension/detention--but you do have to tie/untie the knots each time.  

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18 hours ago, monomuncher said:

i was quoted that price several weeks ago from multihull australia as i am listing my pulse with them soon as 

hamilton is done, i guess they would know what they sell them for as they are the agents, the weak aus/us dollar

may be the cause, they are built in Vietnam could be another reason.

Just looked at your profile and realised who you are - 'hey mate' we've spoken before as I put a NSW chap Scott in contact with you to possible buy your Pulse. Sorry it hasn't worked out and that your listing with Multihull Solutions. I bought from them and they hold the Corsair sales here so good choice. Fingers crossed it sells quickly and to somebody who will race with the other Pulses here in SEQ. From memory my Pulse new back in 2017 was US$35,900 brand new - about $53,000 in todays conversion. Our dollar has certainly dropped more since then.  

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18 hours ago, Wess said:

I don't know that they all do.  Doubt it actually as so many of their customers are engineer hippie cruisers (no judgement intended or implied) and like tweaking and have no interest in OD.  But one class.  A day sailor that doubles as an OD racers.  Focus on NOODs in US.

Oh and they are near $50K in the US per this:  https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/2019/corsair-pulse-600-3163995/?refSource=enhanced listing

I think you are paying similar for a J70 but of course that comes with an OD fleet and J boats commitment to the acing side of the sport.

the difference is you can buy one and do what you like but IF there are one design rules there is a good chance a race fleet will grow at least it can grow.

Whats the cost of the builder writing down one design rules? Can pass that to a class association as soon as there is one, thats a common road to go down.
There is some history in the USA a few years ago re lack of one design rules ( I was not there but its all on here) for the 24 which drove a few people away as you would expect.

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