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For my one & only contest I drove down the Garden State to exit 63.   Long Beach Island a decent drive from J Shore.  About ‘summer ‘69 been looking for a contest way outa my neighborhood to sort ‘contest’ surfing out.   Extra draw was David Nuuhiwa (on a promo gig no doubt).

Sloppy, 1-2’ summer Jersey mush.  Paddled out my ‘contest’ board:  7’6 Hansen 50-50 pintail.  Caught nada, no one else too.   I think the judges skipped out for lunch.  Silence.   
 
Was embarrassed to watch Nuuhiwa make a go of it.   He was on top those days and rare to see west coast heavyweight on the East Coast.

Career ended I headed back to Sea Bright with some silly sheit stories and no one knew me = no shame.  What a kook:  7’6 pintail in beach break?   Prolly the only guy that summer still riding a west coast board and about a foot longer than most boards by then to boot.   Eh.  

Contests can suck so bad.  Yesterdays US Open final looked like sheity 3-4’ Huntington on a grey day no less.  Got down early to 13th St and waited.  And waited.  And bailed.   No loss.

About all i missed was that crazy ass shooting at the bathrooms.  WTF was that all about?   No dull moments @ the Pier.

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hit an afternoon session with my son on saturday after a month of wave-less busy schedules. the waves were nothing close to good, but to be honest, it didn't even matter...sharing sets with your kid r

Here's a link to the trailer for a film I have just finished mixing for Tim Bonython - Big Wave Project II. Tim is one of Australia's best known surf film makers. Shot in Nazare, Mullaghmore, Shi

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36 minutes ago, El Mariachi said:

Did you happen to catch the '86 riot there? If not...you missed out. And the 'riot' on 4th of July back in the late 70's was almost as bad. Good times.....unless you were unlucky enough to lose a torso.....

 

https://www.ocregister.com/articles/-727130--.html

I was living on Oswego in the middle of the one around ‘94/95.   That was the summer you had to have a license for your bike, no drinking in the front yard w/o fence etc etc.   They were done breaking heads and putting out couch fires in the middle of the street. Lots a plain clothes guys in black vans grabbing knuckleheads - no questions asked.

Huntington is what it is.   Meh.   Still a good town.

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17 hours ago, El Mariachi said:

It was much funner in the mid 60's thru the late 70's. Golden West & 17th Street were our go to places on week days. Barring those? It was south to the River Jetties.....

 

(One of my better daze, circa '81).....:D

FB_IMG_1586058997445~2.jpg

Yap.   Goldenwest & 17th always ck’d during day.   Weekends a crowd there so my move was up to the Gap.   Cliffs always fun.  
 

The HB routine:   Looking for corners on the usual wallbanger days.   Then turn and burn…..the 3 second ride kinda days.   Many of those!

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20 hours ago, blunderfull said:

About all i missed was that crazy ass shooting at the bathrooms.  WTF was that all about?   No dull moments @ the Pier.

Some Cholo with a gun.  Seems like he wanted to take out another Vato, or it was Suicide By Cop.  Regardless, he was one that shouldn’t have been breathing the same air as us!  

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Just came across this GFM that ended last year for surf legend Pat Curren. What a sad state of affairs...

50294314_1596942517279581_r.jpeg

Friends of Pat Curren

I had a nodding acquaintance with him back in the early 80s as he kept his work boats (Omoo and Typee) in a slip near mine in Santa Barbara, but I was just a grem and he was Pat Curren.

In following up to see if there's any further news I found this bit of bad blood in the family, but no word how they're currently doing.

Beach Grit

 

Apparently he's still shaping, or trying to...

All the best to one of the greats!

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On 12/16/2021 at 7:41 AM, Willin' said:

Just came across this GFM that ended last year for surf legend Pat Curren. What a sad state of affairs...

50294314_1596942517279581_r.jpeg

Friends of Pat Curren

I had a nodding acquaintance with him back in the early 80s as he kept his work boats (Omoo and Typee) in a slip near mine in Santa Barbara, but I was just a grem and he was Pat Curren.

In following up to see if there's any further news I found this bit of bad blood in the family, but no word how they're currently doing.

Beach Grit

 

Apparently he's still shaping, or trying to...

All the best to one of the greats!

That’s a messy situation there.   Down but not out in Paradise.   Hard to figure out if there’s a right way/wrong way to have handled that.

Know a few guys hanging in there narrowly.   I generally skip the family back stories and get to real time fixes.   Bandaids mostly but, it goes deep when you see someone spiraling down.

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Yeah, shame on me for thinking all those old guys retired billionaires like Hobie did. Like aging folk musicians, they just keep plodding along quietly doing their thing until they're an obit.

Maybe there should be an old surfers home!

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Sitting on the bluff I see a swimmer about 400 yards offshore powering thru a tough northern current.   No spotter. Solo.   Goes past Tower 20 and I lose sight.   Get the binos and scan.   He’s not there.  ??

Call the guards and ask if they can truck by and take a look.  They oblige and take a few passes and then leave and wave at me as they head south.

Called HQ today to see what, if anything, came if it.   No call back.

What would you do?   
 

These days it’s rare to see open water swimming, especially in winter.   Waters about 54-56 now.   And solo, way outside the lineups.   Guy was strong as bull.

Projecting my fears?   Doing the right thing?

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On 1/11/2022 at 12:40 AM, blunderfull said:

Sitting on the bluff I see a swimmer about 400 yards offshore powering thru a tough northern current.   No spotter. Solo.   Goes past Tower 20 and I lose sight.   Get the binos and scan.   He’s not there.  ??

Call the guards and ask if they can truck by and take a look.  They oblige and take a few passes and then leave and wave at me as they head south.

Called HQ today to see what, if anything, came if it.   No call back.

What would you do?   
 

These days it’s rare to see open water swimming, especially in winter.   Waters about 54-56 now.   And solo, way outside the lineups.   Guy was strong as bull.

Projecting my fears?   Doing the right thing?

Ya done good mate. Even if there was no one reported missing or found awash in the lineup. Thanks!

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1 hour ago, Willin' said:

Ya done good mate. Even if there was no one reported missing or found awash in the lineup. Thanks!

Yea.   I’d do it again.   It’s sharky around here now and knowing how cold that water is - can’t hurt to get involved.

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19 hours ago, Rasputin22 said:

 

We caught a day similar to that at Raglans, NZ once. The swell linked 3 points and there were minute long rides. Almost better to paddle in and walk back up the beach. Not quite as warm or clear though.

 

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3 minutes ago, Rasputin22 said:

May be a closeup of outdoors and text that says 'CHAWAI'

Wow, are those tubes wave cavitation? That's an awesome shot.

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

On my bucket list for this summer, Got up a couple of times briefly as a kid. Have spent years swimming/ skim boarding/body-surfing relished all, only imagine that next level on a board.

Right coaster, easy access to beaches of VA/NC and know the beaches of the outer banks. 

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2 hours ago, 00seven said:

Cool Stuff

No, nay, never! Not even in my fit and exuberant youth!

  That inner jaw is about to trip him up and swallow him whole. I've seen very few successfully navigate that inner ledge at Shipsterns and why risk a broken neck?

Never, says I!

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On 4/7/2022 at 6:30 AM, Willin' said:

No, nay, never! Not even in my fit and exuberant youth!

  That inner jaw is about to trip him up and swallow him whole. I've seen very few successfully navigate that inner ledge at Shipsterns and why risk a broken neck?

Never, says I!

As far as ride quality, what’s the best wave height at Shipsterns?    
 

Looks like it somehow detonates late when it’s big+ and goes psycho in a hurry.   Makes for great scary af pics tho.

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Extended stay in San Diego, heard Huntington Beach had some of the best surf on the west coast, drove to Huntington Beach to see for myself, a swim, some beverages and back to SD. Love to go back for some of that great ocean vibe and the food.

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On 3/1/2022 at 10:55 AM, blunderfull said:

 

Roughly how long does it take to grow a set and be able to hang in there with the confidence there's an escape at the bottom of your plunge?

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9 minutes ago, Iain A said:

Extended stay in San Diego, heard Huntington Beach had some of the best surf on the west coast, drove to Huntington Beach to see for myself, a swim, some beverages and back to SD. Love to go back for some of that great ocean vibe and the food.

Hit Bolsa Chica towers  21 & 22.   Two Beach clubs nearby  with live bands.   Chill vibes.

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20 hours ago, Iain A said:

Extended stay in San Diego, heard Huntington Beach had some of the best surf on the west coast,

When you were in SD you already were near some of the best surf spots on the west coast, Wind and Sea, Blacks, Cardiff Reef, Swamis and nothing against Huntington I grew up there and surfed the pier for decades but it doesn't hold a candle to Blacks when it going off.

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57 minutes ago, oldsurfer said:

When you were in SD you already were near some of the best surf spots on the west coast, Wind and Sea, Blacks, Cardiff Reef, Swamis and nothing against Huntington I grew up there and surfed the pier for decades but it doesn't hold a candle to Blacks when it going off.

TY!

Know that now and did experience all I could get to including, the small spot @ OB pier, my first experience in the Pacific, water temperature was a shock. Surfers donning neoprene should of been my first clue!

An Oceanside cliff down the road from the beach there that begs out of town morons, drunks (my case X2) to dive off, still have a scar on my hip to prove it. Other than a brush with some potential ugly, had a blast.

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21 hours ago, Iain A said:

Extended stay in San Diego, heard Huntington Beach had some of the best surf on the west coast, drove to Huntington Beach to see for myself, a swim, some beverages and back to SD. Love to go back for some of that great ocean vibe and the food.

 

1 hour ago, oldsurfer said:

When you were in SD you already were near some of the best surf spots on the west coast, Wind and Sea, Blacks, Cardiff Reef, Swamis and nothing against Huntington I grew up there and surfed the pier for decades but it doesn't hold a candle to Blacks when it going off.

 

23 minutes ago, Iain A said:

TY!

Know that now and did experience all I could get to including, the small spot @ OB pier, my first experience in the Pacific, water temperature was a shock. Surfers donning neoprene should of been my first clue!

An Oceanside cliff down the road from the beach there that begs out of town morons, drunks (my case X2) to dive off, still have a scar on my hip to prove it. Other than a brush with some potential ugly, had a blast.

@ least you didn't bother trying to go sailing

Don't forget to tell everyone when you get home

DAGO SUCKS !!!!!!!!

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On 4/10/2022 at 4:13 PM, Rasputin22 said:

That was awesome! A long time ago I was working for a spell out of Fortaleza, Brazil and would frequently see young kids surfing on pieces of scrap plywood along the harbor jetty. Not shaped or curved , just rectangles of old construction material.

Maybe not as well as that grom, but they, and by they I mean we, even though I had almost no Portuguese, had a ball and became great friends for that week.

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Raza does Wedge.

Blair C is sick.

You guys skim?    Curious.   On a flat day we’d break the skims out.   I’m talking late ‘60s here -  1/4” ply and wax.   Hella good times.   City kooks laughed then came back next time with their ‘customs’.   Haha…everyone having cheap fun.

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20 hours ago, Rasputin22 said:

Snapper Rocks

D-Bar ? Twweed River Wall 

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Cloudbreak 2018

I started this at the wave, the first 1 1/2 minutes is a tow in driver Spicolying.

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7 hours ago, 00seven said:

Teahupoo

Nah, Tavarua!  Open the Youtube to read the description.

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Here's a link to the trailer for a film I have just finished mixing for Tim Bonython - Big Wave Project II. Tim is one of Australia's best known surf film makers.

Shot in Nazare, Mullaghmore, Shipsterns, Tahiti, Fiji, Mavericks, Peahi etc. It's currently being shown around Australia on the big screen.

Tim regularly posts other films on his channel: Surfing Visions. He also has a TV series called Swell Chasers - each episode was at a different Big Wave location.

Kind of funny that I am not a surfer, I'm a sailor, but I have mixed a number of surf films, and also regularly work for Surfing Australia. If you haven't seen it, look out for Thundercloud, it's all about the year Cloudbreak in Fiji went off. They cancelled the Tour event, and they all went big wave surfing! It was a bit of a turning point.

 

Sorry - I see now that Willin' has posted a Tim Bonython clip from Cloudbreak.

 

 

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35 minutes ago, mccroc said:

Here's a link to the trailer for a film I have just finished mixing for Tim Bonython - Big Wave Project II. Tim is one of Australia's best known surf film makers.

Shot in Nazare, Mullaghmore, Shipsterns, Tahiti, Fiji, Mavericks, Peahi etc. It's currently being shown around Australia on the big screen.

Tim regularly posts other films on his channel: Surfing Visions. He also has a TV series called Swell Chasers - each episode was at a different Big Wave location.

Kind of funny that I am not a surfer, I'm a sailor, but I have mixed a number of surf films, and also regularly work for Surfing Australia. If you haven't seen it, look out for Thundercloud, it's all about the year Cloudbreak in Fiji went off. They cancelled the Tour event, and they all went big wave surfing! It was a bit of a turning point.

 

Sorry - I see now that Willin' has posted a Tim Bonython clip from Cloudbreak.

 

 

I surfed a fair bit with Tim as youngster. Well before he went into films. (he was knee boarder back then but we coaxed him into standing up)

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On 5/10/2022 at 10:06 PM, Willin' said:

Nah, Tavarua!  Open the Youtube to read the description.

Not Tavarua, it’s Cloudbreak, only a few miles from Tavarua but cops and holds heaps bigger swell than Tavarua.

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