MtBaldyCat

Nacra A3 rigging help

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I just bought a 2008 Nacra A3 and have a couple questions.  I raised the mast yesterday and the standing rigging all makes sense.

Is there a trick to hooking and unhooking the sail?

Also, mainsheet is set up with two triple block and someone has lashed an additional 40 on top and a 29 on the bottom, photo attached. Not sure what they are for...

New to the forum. thanks for the help!

Main with extra blocks.JPG

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Congrats on the new boat.  A's are like go carts, super fun!  

Does the boat have a halyard?  You may need to rotate the mast to hook and in hook, and if you have a halyard, the way the knot is tied to the ring makes a difference.  On my F18, the easy way is knot forward, on the starboard side.  We put a piece of tape on the mast as a reminder.  You may have to play with it a bit to figure out which way works best. 

Your mainsheet looks like it is setup for Center sheeting.  The top block is usually the last one the line goes through to lead to the front beam.  The lower block is there to give you more purchase.  Typically you want atleast 8:1, better 9:1 and some guys run 10:1 or even 12:1 (foilers).  You need to play with the Reeving to get it fair and the lower block may need to be perpendicular to the triples. 

Hopefully my descriptions make sense, but I am sure some other guys on here can help clarify.  

Cheers,

T

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Thanks for the reply. There is no halyard on this boat...   I was worried I might hook it by luck yesterday here at home and then have to flip it on its side to unhook.

My last boat was a Nacra 5.8 and as you said,  the orientation of the halyard knot, along with rotating the mast and wind direction made lowering the sail easy or nearly impossible.  First couple times out I had crew with binoculars looking at the mast trying to give me directions!

Your block suggestion makes sense. Out of the photo the line runs to a block mid boom and then will go to the block center of the tramp. I will try to reeve thru the two additional again tomorrow.

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I'd find some reeving instructions, the Nacra manual has good ones. Its not too tricky but different than what you might think at first.

There have been lots of mainsheet setups on A's over the years. Yours is setup like #10 here I bet, or like #4 but external to the boom: https://www.ronstan.com/marine/mainsheet_systems.asp

With the Decksweeper, absolutely required now if you want to race in the A competitively, I have a 40mm quad at the top and bottom, with a 20mm block on the bottom and a loop at the top. The tail is tied to the loop, then I reeve it through all the blocks, then I go from the bottom block to a 57mm autoratchet and then down to a Ronstan RF56100 swivel ratchet mounted to the deck.  This essentially gives me 11:1, but the two ratchets are absolutely critical. The combination of a Harken and Ronstan works beautifully as the release point on the Harken is sooner than the Ronstan, so when you ease the ronstan the harken is tripped, and when you sheet in the Harken engages first then the Ronstan. You might be able to eliminate a second ratchet by going to a higher holding power single ratchet on the deck like the Ronstan 60mm: https://www.ronstan.com/marine/product.asp?ProdNo=RF62100

I can probably go back down to 9:1 or 10:1 with a boom, boomless the sheet loads are very high. The top boomless sailors use a 12:1 system under the deck, tramp-under.jpg

It's a 4:1 tied to a 3:1, with the 3:1 all running through high load metal sheaves to the sail. Unfortunately this won't work for you as you have a curved traveler and different tramp layout, so staying external is best.

If it makes you feel better, locking the main on without a halyard is pretty painful IME, most folks tip the boat over a good bit. If you have adjustable diamond wires that makes a difference as well.

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Glasser had some instructions for hooking the main, but I never had much luck on my boat.  In essence Jay's instructions were to make sure the halyard lock is leaned against the mast and once you get close to the top, rotate the mast so that the ring will pass the hook.  Then straighten the mast so that the lock/hook engage.

So easy a three year old can do it, right????

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That trick works for me just fine. The real trick is to use shoe goo or E6000 to glue the ring strop on the sail into the correct position with the sail up. Otherwise it wants to flick back too much when hoisting and gets pushed off the hook.

Anyway, great boats and should be a ton of fun once sorted out!

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Images a little outdated, most new boats go for wheel with gearing now. 

And hoisting sail should be easy. Usually it's the tube inside the luff that gets too long. So undo stitches in top, pull the tube as far out as possible, stretch sail, cut tube, sew the tube again.

Some put some shockcord around the ring, others use strips along the top part of the sail, to keep the ring in position, so it hooks better.

 And good decision to buy an a-cat; it's good toy for playing with water.

 

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Only the F1x and very latest eXploder are shipping with wheel gearing on the mainsheet, and they are fiddly. Those setups are not easily retrofitted either as they generally require a center spine to work properly.

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On 6/5/2019 at 7:36 AM, Lars Schrøder d 13 said:

Some put some shockcord around the ring, others use strips along the top part of the sail, to keep the ring in position, so it hooks better.

A small block of rubber under the shackle works well.  Will correct ring angle in both directions.

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Thanks for the replies! I am headed to the lake in the morning and will bring some E6000. And also look out for the sail tube in the luff.

I am sure I will have some questions about mast rotation line routing. I will post more pics tomorrow night. Excited for the first sail( & boat righting practice)

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First day out went pretty well.... hooked the sail first run up the mast and thought I had it figured out. (HA!) Came back in after an hour and dropped it while I took a break. Then it was impossible to get it hooked again, 40 minutes of trying! So, I had to lay it over to get it hooked. But made it back out.

1042556025_A3atPerrisweb.thumb.jpeg.998bc7c0e528c24b8a491c7dcc76123a.jpeg

A few questions about the attached photo with text.  I can not figure out the mast rotation at all.  Any suggestions from my photo? I had the mast rotation block (circled yellow) on the tramp connected to what might be a boom vang - Ronstan block at mast base & forward cleat on the boom??  Whatever I did was way off...

Are the mini red blocks tied to the front of the mast base for over-rotation?

The downhaul lines seem to just sit on the tramp, any better routing suggestions?

Main sheet was only long enough to get 7:1, I will need to get another line to reeve thru the extra blocks that are tied on.

Thanks for the help!!

Mast_Base1_text.jpeg

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Your mast rotation wiring seems a little awkward. If you turn the block coming up from the trampoline the other way and follow this sketch I think it will make more sense.

About the overrotation arrangement you probably should cross the lines in front of the mast and add a line on each side, fixed in front of the Micro cheek block, through the red overrotator block, back through the cheek block and into the camcleat.

mastrot.gif

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Just take all the over rotation stuff off for now.  It processes a very minicamp return and is just complicating your life.

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Hi all,

Since we are asking A3 questions, I have one. 

I have not used my A in a while and I want to ensure that the bolts holding the beam to the hulls are tight enough. 

Is there any specific torque I should used so I to strip the threads, or can I just tight really good and that is it. 

Any insights are appreciated. 

Cheers, 

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If you know the fastener size, I would google the torque spec. "Really tight" could be overtight or not tight enough. My recommendation is to bond the beams to the hulls if you can, and leave the bolts in to ensure they won't pull out of the sockets.

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With your C-boards, SamC99us is being straight with you needing a deck sweeper, but you are some work away from being at the front of the fleet.  Race to learn right now what is wrong/needs adjustment etc.  There are a lot of ETCs.  Mast Over-rotation isn't really needed anymore.  

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