Sign in to follow this  
zenyatta

Moving Traveler Aft

Recommended Posts

Hi all, 

I've been considering moving the traveler aft all summer and finally got around to tackling this. Reason for the switch is while driving, I'm not able to reach the mainsheet or traveler and in it's old location it would create constant jib sheet / spinnaker sheet clusterfucks - basically too much going on up there. I want the traveler back aft so whoever is driving can worry about the main and get those controls out of the way of everything else.

Considering the cockpit seats are slightly curved I believe I'll have to construct some kind of beveled pad for the traveler to rest on - I bought a piece of G10 which I'm hoping will get the job done. My question is what's the best way to create a template / cut this stuff with the right curve to it if that makes sense??

Am I crazy for moving this? I can't really see any downsides other than the occasional bloody shin which I am fine with

Pics at link below since I couldn't get them to upload:

https://flic.kr/s/aHsmHQBVDk

Chris

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You don’t need a solid piece of G10. Just make cylinders of the right height at the bolts. Less weight, easier. All good. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Why put it right in the middle? It will still be a big pain in the ass but now it will be a pain in the shins too.

Why not put it right aft out of the way?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That pattern of track may not seal well with just spacers. And that will look agricultural as well. And ya have to fiddle with an angled end on the spacers.

Easier way if you know epoxy. Tape up the bottom of the track. Lightly bolt (2) the track in position. Mask the deck appropriately.  Make up some very thick lightweight epoxy. Lightly fillet the epoxy all around without stuffing it very far under...making a wall. Use a spatula to make it tidy. When set remove the track and fill in the middle of your epoxy wall using the top edge as a guide. Form a nice fillet at the deck with finger. Make it all pretty with sanding, fairing, paint. Fill the old holes, too. Drill and mount the track. Easy and quick except for the epoxy cure time which can be spent doing other stuff.

It will look like the boat was built that way. And no leaks. And no grime (or toes) underneath. Works well for winches, windlasses, clutches, turning blocks,, stanchion bases, etc. All the places a fool might use dead tree material....

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

^ This.

I built a lip on a cambered deck for an alloy hatch exactly that way and it looked like it came out of the mould that way.

Packing tape does well as masking and mold release on the hardware.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How will the move affect sail trim? Will it pull the leech differently?

How will the move affect crew? I can’t see the binnacle, I’m guessing there is a tiller? How is it going to work for the helm (other than the barked shins)? How does the crew cross in tacks?

Im in the ‘move it all the way aft’ peanut gallery, or maybe replace with a vang of some sort? It just seems to me that you may be replacing one problem with another, I’d think hard about it, me, before changing 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Does your tiller have an extension?  You should be able to easily reach the traveler with one. 
 

My last two boats have had the traveler where you boat originally had it and I like that location. It doesn’t break up the cockpit, gives you near end boom sheeting, and is pretty accessible.  The main downside is that the pit and main trimmer get in each other’s way on fully crewed racing (but when short handed the main can do pit too). 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah I've decided upon leaving it as is, the main reason it's an issue is the winches have been moved up forward at some point so it leaves all of the controls / spaghetti near in the same place - the jib trimmer has to maneuver sheets around the mainsheet, etc. along with the driver not being able to easily control the traveler. Since the jib sheets get piled up right near the traveler everything gets tangled up and it really is a big mess once the kite goes up if we need to use winches for the sheet/guy. At the very least I think I'll move the control lines for the traveler aft so at least those are out of the way. I suppose we'll just adapt to the boat instead of trying to turn it into a J22

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
14 hours ago, pointbreak805 said:

Yeah I've decided upon leaving it as is,

 

If you change you mind, you might want to consider anchoring the middle of the track to the cockpit floor, as you would sacrifice 6 out of 12, attachment points... having only three fixing points, either side is going to put a lot of stress on your benches, especially upwind with the car in the middle, and while gybing.

/Kpt

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You could still move the traveler controls aft. Cheek block at the end of the track, line aft along the back of the seat. Block to bring it up the coaming, cleat near the top of the coaming. Will be a pain, literally, sitting in the cockpit.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this