Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Sorry, meant to upload these much sooner but have had a bit on this year so far. The tube section came out perfect and exceeded my own expectations. She is straight and true and the finish quality should be good enough to leave in just a sanded finish. Getting it off the mandrel was easy enough and I think we peaked at only 800kgf. before she let go and started sliding out. On the much bigger sections you can see some much higher pull force numbers.  

image.thumb.png.fd8c63250dadda24f3fedb13cfbcdd74.png

image.thumb.png.b78550748c87539c8af912db94038388.png

 

image.thumb.png.88a83753c0557c0e53c6a4f8e9520fc3.png

 

image.thumb.png.329ec0ea093f99c1c956b63789c6fa08.png

 

image.thumb.png.c597ceba9f6555efd580fd0d17a41d8e.png

 

image.png.6d62b12d66103dfe1a2249738df04975.png

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 451
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

She floats and the engine runs! Was a long day transiting the Westerschelde and then navigating the canals across the island of Walcheren 

Not sure why this feels like such a monumental moment. Its just some white 545 that's gone on and now it feels totally transformed.  Really looking forward to seeing the glossy coat go on now. On

Now on to the next portion of this racing re-furb    Phase 1: deconstruction Phase 2: reconstruction  Phase 3: assembly      

Posted Images

Weight-wise she came in at 38kgs. plus or minus 100g before trimming. For now she is sitting on a rack until I can figure out what to do next. I still need to laminate the spreaders and then find some space to do the rest of the fit out. One step closer at least and having the tube is most of it.

 

image.thumb.png.41405f54419da1e4d2f9a3472dc10784.png

 

image.png.d9b7d1833b3feb823ad6db8c8885606f.png

image.thumb.png.89d275365f820a3bf56163549606efb9.png

 

image.png.a1b6a7fe986c59f7d3055a66ca4bdb4a.png

 

image.thumb.png.0b8568bd87a29c0952aa5315446614a2.png

 

image.thumb.png.39f7459a8db2133167c692d816349e20.png

 

image.thumb.png.af46018e37b8e335efbe47228ae4a29f.png

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

In the meantime at home I have been tackling a few smaller projects that need to get ticked off the list sooner or later. The pulpit needed a bit of refining and a better way to secure it to its forward mounts which are part of the headstay chain plate. Its actually a pretty smart design and is quite light all together considering. 

Anyways it was never fully finished and there was actually nothing mechanical securing the pulpit tubes into their housing. They had just been using some scrap dyneema to lash it all down. So I tried my best to get it all trued up and measured and then drilled and tapped an m6 grub screw into each side.

Technically a pan head screw should be better as the shoulder stops it from going to far but I want this surface to be as smooth as possible. I've got some vibra-tite in there which works better in this case then typical thread locker as you can remove the fasteners many times without it loosing its ability to keep the grub screws in place.

 

image.thumb.png.673c5406022dc155af58ff625a044be4.png

image.png.d56e727b0356868e179cb9649c4d8c57.png

 

image.thumb.png.3c3cbb2a1eae5fc585fef28ec7a8cb7b.png

 

image.png.43c782c8e172eed8f86e4c800c9e2d96.png

 

I also broke the handle on my favorite longboard... Some rubber toughened epoxy should do the trick

IMG_6049.thumb.jpg.332f2b266a0a7cc15530253939c1384a.jpgIMG_6050.thumb.jpg.206f852f4c9028cc164e95e507bf9fcf.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Some other side projects include these drop in boxes for reef line jammers. The idea is to mount one per side by cutting a rectangular hole the size of the lower section and then just bonding the whole thing down with glue under the flanges. Its about the tidiest way I can think of without fully putting the jammers inside the boom and then having to worry about remote tripping. Also maintenance-wise this should be easier and then having the visual indicator if its open or closed can be useful in heavy weather reefing situations. Still haven't decided exactly how far forward to mount these but I'm sure there is a sweet spot.

image.thumb.png.a94fe4614b79088407859fff581696e3.pngIMG_6110.thumb.jpg.4e53ee43d20e763901f28aa42b861a79.jpg

  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

Getting some dry fitting done on the OBE. Been a bit hectic as we're halfway through a kitchen renovation that's sucking up all our time and energy..

 

Was able to fit the outhaul and 2 reef sheave boxes. Used the Harken 310 sheave-boxes with the raised bar cover plates for off angle loading to prevent chafe. Also got the mainsheet blocks positioned and fitted. Keeping it light and simple but also bullet proof. These are the low load 57mm blocks, I just removed the red inserts because I don't like them...

Next I need to tackle the IBE, get the pin hole bored, cut out and mount the reef jammer boxes, figure out what to do for the vang tang, figure out how to exit the mainsheet mid-boom cleanly... Yeah and other stuff.

Once its all done I can strip all the hardware again and get it sanded down to 400 or so and call it good.  The white crap on the outside is just caked on metal polishing compound. I was hiding this behind our rod rigging grinder/polisher for a few months...

 

image.thumb.png.48261a0cffcc791491f0fe693111efae.png

image.thumb.png.d48c67b58049d0c4eb661b64ac0bd58d.png

 

image.thumb.png.0a757ac21fec0ebf184914d866e7deca.png

 

image.thumb.png.0c4174b8f3ea133b9db63b8949b0bddb.png

 

 

 

image.thumb.png.864f17d37f08b602319ef18abf52f85e.png

 

image.thumb.png.7d43ab3fa7b14ea084b0d13a04579ab4.png

 

 

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Here is another rebuild done in NZ  this is Alcatraz that was designed with wings, now removed  .....Grant Firth design, lesser known overseas but well regarded in NZ.........

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/boats-marine/yachts/keeler/listing/3002245945?bof=SvM5JGWH

Hi guys. Having bought the boat a week and a half before easter and rushing to get it ready for our maiden cruise, (fit replacement sail drive, fit engine with new exhaust etc, glass and fair keel and antifoul part of the bottom) we found out the flywheel was incorrectly fitted on the way out of westhaven on easter thursday as it came loose and broke all of its bolts off in the crankshaft.

We pulled the engine out again and repaired the damage and decided to do a few upgrades at the same time. We built a floor and back into the engine box and fully insulated and sealed them to reduce noise, re jigged the fuel system and revised the electrics. Photos to follow.

 

The boat is a 35 foot yacht built by Brin Wilsons in 1982 with solid wings for crew weight optimisation and it seems that most of Aucklands yachting fraternity has raced on her or against her at some point so any stories would be great.

 

We just fitted a used prop, $150 off TM, as the original had been bitten by the electric mice and bought a engine driven fridge freezer to fit as a replacement to the small electric one fitted. I also made a new sail cover as the old one fell apart.

We have a new no2 on order from Rick Royden and have ordered new halyards and runners and topmast backstay as well to replace the wire.

The plan is for a new keel in 2014 and a repaint in 2015 during the winters and cruise and race in the summers.

As said before, any stories would be great.     Cheers Dave

 

https://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?/topic/155793-alcatraz/

Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry for the long period of silence! Have had a bit on and this virus and lockdown have not been helping at all. Also its been a bit cold for a while which has me spending too much time in the shed at the moment. Quietly though, things have been happening in small steps. I should have the bottom faired and barrier coated over the next few weeks. Will wait on the antifoul until we are actually close to getting wet. One the new water-line is established. I can have the vinyl guys come in and sort out the topsides once on for all. 

At home, I've been working on the mast layout design and finalizing all the hardware. Normally you would do this before actually building the mast but my situation was a bit different timing wise.

I've finally narrowed down the mast base setup. Will be an internal 45kN jack with no shims. The pump will get mounted probably on the aft side of the main bulkhead down low where its easy to operate but but out of the way from any dragging sails. I've nearly got all the pieces put together except I still need to sort out a bronze lug which will act as the bearing point between the cylinder and the mast base plate. This will also allow enough(I think..) movement for the tacking deck collar.

 

image.thumb.png.bac40a07fef959cf4b88fd232cdf7347.png

 

image.thumb.png.ec752c18677eeb7feb2200288f9d696a.png

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I've been working to get all the hardware(for mast and deck) organized and setup including the correct fasteners. This is to try and reduce as much time as possible for when it comes time to mount everything. Also, anything I can do ahead of time with regards to passivation is being done using a combination of T9 boeshield, tef-gel and green duralac depending on the requirement. 

 

image.thumb.png.e9b9565950281dde62092fd386427b3f.png

image.thumb.png.4e0f112d279b295b69c8bf454b32044e.png

image.thumb.png.f3d1d781364faeab03b3ea52278e0841.png

image.thumb.png.4e9697115a73ac70c562529161bed7ed.png

 

image.thumb.png.401375b984f5672a621cbe170332d092.png

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Also picked up a good used Adler 525i which does, straight, zig-zag and triple step which pretty much covers us for most of what we will need to do. I'm not sure yet how many sails we will make our selves yet but for sure we will slap together a few in the beginning as well as covers and other canvas work needed.

 

image.thumb.png.0f1d1afc66bf1e80211a1afdab4057d1.png

  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites
On 3/17/2021 at 7:51 AM, huey 2 said:

 

Wild Thing is definitely really cool! The mid-boom sheeting is a funny work around for the stern hung rudder though. I really would love the articulating bowsprit exactly like that on our boat. We won't ever get light enough to run in lighter air with Asyms on centerline properly and would need to go to Symmetrical kites. I'm planning for both options with the rig so it can be interchangeable depending on what sailing we're doing. 

I really don't need more projects added to the list but now you've got me thinking about some things...

 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Some new underwater bling arrived from our Danish/Italian friends. Don't know why this makes me so happy.

Honestly, having a diesel inboard and saildrive hanging out the bottom does bother me. It goes against Jim Young's design philosophy for these boats and the typical kiwi mindset for sportiest.

For us to be compliant with the racing we will be doing in the North sea and beyond, we have to drag around the extra weight of the inboard. Now at least I will sleep better knowing we've reduced on an area of major hydro drag.

 

I guess she won't stay shiny long once she's got her coating and is living underwater. Will fondle it a bit longer before I get the pins and blades out to see how she fits onto the spline shaft. 

 

 

IMG_5390.thumb.jpg.74f126e62b90490d7c7f30a2e9d6af17.jpgIMG_5391.thumb.jpg.7d68f52d3a6b004c71f5d2a095c423d3.jpgIMG_5392.thumb.jpg.4310c3ff9655414fadfc8c791d743361.jpgIMG_5393.thumb.jpg.ae74f3c594c305f656515e2e8383a27e.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

I've finally got the mast base in the house. I still might make some tweaks but this is essentially what its going to be.

What I haven't decided is if the mast heel would sit on this base when jack pressure is fully released or something else. If it would sit on top then I would cut off the upper ring so the alloy heel doesn't get damaged and has a flattish surface to bear against. The ring is only there as a safety for the mast jumping out of the pocket but I can't figure out how that could ever happen.

Once I'm happy, it will get a bit of an acid cleaning and then some paint.

The bronze bearing pin is still over sized so I need to get that turned down to fit inside the vertical bush adapter. 

 

Slowly but surely, we'll get there..

IMG_5394.thumb.jpg.9f5db7dfdda8958406835f3c80db3350.jpg

 

IMG_5395.thumb.jpg.b828a7dc7a4008669c4794cf358b57e3.jpg

 

IMG_5396.thumb.jpg.6e8dff3b53f7d08d11ca829fbe04d979.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Smoothing her out and then we start spraying the vc-tar. Will need to level her out a bit better before we can get a laser to dictate the new waterline. Onwards and upwards.

 

IMG_5423.thumb.jpg.682e35e46e909114f63a407429a4d054.jpg

 

 

IMG_5424.thumb.jpg.af015db39ef757a7567d5ea4b8461f01.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Decided to give it another go with high-build. Not really keen about the extra time and costs but there were a few to many low spots for me to sleep at night.

Should have the barrier coat on next week which means I need to make a decision for the topsides. We we planned on a wrap job, the local guy here is fairly reasonable and the quality seems okay. The other option is to have this paint shed take care of it which will cost more but also just get it done and out of the way. We will think abut it over the weekend I guess.

 

IMG_5459-1.thumb.jpg.38f6ba043fcd7e10424e7185f89bfc01.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

And in less exciting news, the output shaft from the saildrive tried to end its own life by taking a headfirst dive off the bench today.

It should be salvageable and luckily I have a guy who can fix this but still a bit annoying.. 

 

IMG_5485-1.thumb.jpg.0dd08b4c26c034e3c3929c7d828923bc.jpgIMG_5486-2.thumb.jpg.9ab4d974373af2824e2db48219dd83e1.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
On 3/31/2021 at 9:09 AM, IanA. said:

Smoothing her out and then we start spraying the vc-tar. Will need to level her out a bit better before we can get a laser to dictate the new waterline. Onwards and upwards.

 

IMG_5423.thumb.jpg.682e35e46e909114f63a407429a4d054.jpg

 

 

IMG_5424.thumb.jpg.af015db39ef757a7567d5ea4b8461f01.jpg

What's the purpose of VC Tar?  I tried it once ages ago and swore to never use it again.  I'd have to go back and look at it again but I haven't heard of anybody using it in years either.

Link to post
Share on other sites
14 hours ago, WCB said:

What's the purpose of VC Tar?  I tried it once ages ago and swore to never use it again.  I'd have to go back and look at it again but I haven't heard of anybody using it in years either.

I’m using VCtar2

Its just an epoxy barrier coat of many to choose from. This is what’s recommended to use with VC anti fouling. In my case we will be using VC17M Extra so I prefer going with manufacturer recommendations. 

On other boats we have used interprotect2000e(it has micro-plates) with VC offshore with good success. 
 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, IanA. said:

I’m using VCtar2

Its just an epoxy barrier coat of many to choose from. This is what’s recommended to use with VC anti fouling. In my case we will be using VC17M Extra so I prefer going with manufacturer recommendations. 

On other boats we have used interprotect2000e(it has micro-plates) with VC offshore with good success. 
 

 

 

Thanks for the explanation.  I'm a big fan of Interprotect2000 but I also haven't done too much with a VC bottom paint in years.  

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...
On 1/21/2021 at 4:02 AM, IanA. said:

Sorry, meant to upload these much sooner but have had a bit on this year so far. The tube section came out perfect and exceeded my own expectations. She is straight and true and the finish quality should be good enough to leave in just a sanded finish. Getting it off the mandrel was easy enough and I think we peaked at only 800kgf. before she let go and started sliding out. On the much bigger sections you can see some much higher pull force numbers.  

image.thumb.png.fd8c63250dadda24f3fedb13cfbcdd74.png

image.thumb.png.b78550748c87539c8af912db94038388.png

 

image.thumb.png.88a83753c0557c0e53c6a4f8e9520fc3.png

 

image.thumb.png.329ec0ea093f99c1c956b63789c6fa08.png

 

image.thumb.png.c597ceba9f6555efd580fd0d17a41d8e.png

 

image.png.6d62b12d66103dfe1a2249738df04975.png

This was always the worst part for me. We almost did not get the first Columbia 30 keel spar off the mandrel. I think we ended up putting the whole thing in one of our walk in freezers overnight and then used a bunch of hand held heat guns to heat the part up.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...

Yeah sorry for the drop off. Our little one has been going through some health complications which has had us in out out of the hospital until recently. She's is on the mend and doing much better which is a huge relief. For obvious reasons, most everything else was put aside.

To keep things sort of on track with the, we hired out the final fairing round before going into paint. Otherwise we would miss the window for getting splashed at the end of summer. The realistic goal is to get the boat painted, deck hardware and main hatch on. Then splash and move her to the harbor essentially at the end of our street for the winter. That way we can work on the interior much easier. Also during the winter will aim to finish the mast and boom as well as sort out the standing rigging. In theory we would sail next spring. Still a lot of hurdles to get there but its possible at this stage.

 

Below photos are from 2 weeks ago, will try and check her out in the next couple of days. In theory the topsides should already have a coat or 2 of white 545. Once the bottom is done with the final fairing we will splash her for 1 night or so to find the new waterline. It wont be exact since the rig wont be in but will be a lot closer then just totally guessing. For sure it will be about 1 foot difference from the previous. 

image.thumb.png.4298ec8a0dd144166980300ed6ca603d.png

image.thumb.png.75c99942533e0d2da9a2b2487f79866b.png

image.thumb.png.ec574b421cf439d2b9493a692e7034c6.png

 

image.thumb.png.137625a0ac4974c0d431e2f07d2aaf19.png

 

image.png.a83aa03423611a92fec90f6ddf130010.png

image.thumb.png.a5ee7f15231fa932023c6a6fd3b478c6.png

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Have been tinkering around in the garage when possible and started on the center aft instrument tower/ flag pole. Will also house the stern light as well as dead end the aft lifelines from either push-pit. Also thinking to add a waterproof charging port for the deck tablet which would be in a hanging bag nearby. I'm using the top piece of a prototype Finn mast and just a bunch of scraps from other projects.

 

image.thumb.png.562c0b037abb91a079a324e81229ee5b.png

 

image.thumb.png.1142db93389cf91b8a941d748b529394.png

image.thumb.png.139752d1c8182b1bd0b15ddd7737d79d.png

image.thumb.png.1dea0244681a750c44b4a59c1eba43ff.png

image.thumb.png.02177152d957a06017ab9a8c6bbcfb39.png

 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

The whole thing will get a good sanding and clear finish once all the fitting work is done. Getting all the cables lead internally properly is a bit of a fight but doable. 

 

image.thumb.png.b05e64f674259c6c955df646040cafb6.png

 

image.thumb.png.ce00d683049b712255080d2071b4ee5d.png

 

image.thumb.png.1d027485711f0f0e251b1863a7a866b8.png

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
On 6/30/2021 at 1:25 AM, Jono said:

Bump.

Any sailing this summer? Or life getting in the way?

Thread drift. I'm doing the SSANZ on the Y88 plug. 

I think my Uncle actually built that plug as well as quite a few of the production 88's. There's some old photos in Jim's book I think from the early days of that converted plug. Is it your boat now or just using?

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Okay so timing has been pushed forward because apparently there is some big dutch labour holiday coming up and the local tractor driver has gone off fishing somewhere(and apparently took the keys with him). So splashing to get the true waterline is out of the window now as the added time to wait throws everything off.

So we went and reviewed a lot of the different photos from the boat when she was floating and from the old scum line when hauled out originally. We made a fairly educated stab at where it should be. We did have some reference points like the scum line on the transom being at the top aft edge of the rudder blade.

For the bow it was a bit more free balling but it should be about right. The boat should also float a bit higher then previously with all the useless crap pulled out. I didn't assume for that though so we should have a bit of extra margin with the height of the anitfoul to the final floating waterline. 

 

And dis-regard that higher orange taping at the back end. Our painter was sniffing a bit to much thinner with his morning coffee and lost track on which direction he was going. 

545 is going on the topsides tomorrow... and the red will be gone(but not forgotten)

 

 

IMG_6966.thumb.jpeg.d4f332405367e78036c8eb9d450ae84a.jpegddadd8ef-4a8a-40d9-857b-79952660cb2f.thumb.JPG.7200b79b23d5b286e02bd00ffc89c9bf.JPGf13d9b17-0181-492f-94d7-19c9e78954ed.thumb.JPG.314d10728dc32e0f926fe4c854e3c8d1.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Plug is called Tickled Pink. Has a small bulb and a twin spreader alloy rig with jumpers. My understanding is it is a Greg Elliott / Satterthwaite build.

Not my boat. The owner is one of the SSANZ Committee and I sailed it with his 15 year old son. Had a nice day too.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Not sure why this feels like such a monumental moment. Its just some white 545 that's gone on and now it feels totally transformed. 

Really looking forward to seeing the glossy coat go on now. Only 2 million more things to finish and then we can go sailing again!

 

4dab05b2-06a7-4642-8d4a-84c87ab6dee7.thumb.JPG.1c83574ad0cd1be3c77f98bb71583223.JPG

  • Like 9
Link to post
Share on other sites
On 7/19/2021 at 7:06 PM, IanA. said:

Not sure why this feels like such a monumental moment. Its just some white 545 that's gone on and now it feels totally transformed. 

Really looking forward to seeing the glossy coat go on now. Only 2 million more things to finish and then we can go sailing again!

 

4dab05b2-06a7-4642-8d4a-84c87ab6dee7.thumb.JPG.1c83574ad0cd1be3c77f98bb71583223.JPG

Looks awesome, mate. Congratulations

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Trying to tick some things off the list at home in preparation for getting the boat back from the paint shed. September will be a big month of installation and I'm trying to get everything ready and staged so we can just run with it when the time comes.

The rudder has been collecting dust in the back of the shop for a while since she was last coated in high build primer. I installed a new smaller post inside the existing post which the tiller head could clamp to. I didnt take any pictures of this but basically the new glass tube is bonded into the top of the rudder shaft(about 250mm) with pro-set adv 175 and then a 20mm pultruded carbon rod was bonded in horizontally between all the tubes using the original tiller mounting bolt hole. Its all a bit overkill but wasn't much weight and easy to do.

 

After that I finished fairing the blade and then slapped 4 coats of some ultra 300 on her. Will wet sand when she's fully cured up.

 

IMG_5822.thumb.jpg.673ef4a6af9e6fca96a0a36193528889.jpgIMG_5823.thumb.jpg.5a56e7eb5b71839cf7fcfd43d737af7a.jpgIMG_5825.thumb.jpg.eca1d60e9fb5d2fd1dd32b99a38e4d21.jpgIMG_5826.thumb.jpg.a4011d34d7b93af9e1ef7cfe5f2d482a.jpgIMG_5827.thumb.jpg.a015cc2c166ccf0f64a0fa90c42f1f47.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Also got started on the helm foot rests. I scored some of this titanium tubing a few years ago and have been saving it for this job. I bought a cheap as shit used pipe bender that normally meant for copper plumping but it did the job just fine.

I decided to use tiller extension universals as the hinge mechanism as the seem light and practical. Not to mention it is one less thing I need to make myself. I think most boats use a parallel bracket and pin, but I find that a bit agricultural, heavy and overly custom for me. I will need to replace these rubber guys after a few years I'm sure but its a 5 minute job per sides when that time come.

I still haven't decided how to setup the rope control line for these yet. I could try get a local guy to weld some hoops on but I'm convinced there is a cooler solution that I just haven't thought of or come across yet. 

 

IMG_5828.thumb.jpg.81177cfe35389e73bcff9ff7127947aa.jpgIMG_5829.thumb.jpg.126451e0f821dd0bb0a8d2c5b89eefe3.jpgIMG_5830.thumb.jpg.9bb69a85b3de77f82da147359ad05c7e.jpgIMG_5831.thumb.jpg.3e2307000de9094065a3acec60f6b8e6.jpg

 

image.png.472a3387a47948f843d101e116ff0c97.png

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

And in a effort to having way to many projects going on at the same time...

Start working on the new tiller. To be honest the only thing i've got nailed down is what I want it to look like how it functions. The means of actually getting to that point is still up for debate. 

Anyways I've started by just bonding up pieces of 80kg foam bits I have lying around. I'm going for a more unique shape which the my wife isn't super keen on and now I'm motivated to accomplish this in order to avoid the "i told you so" if this turns into a failure. She wants something more traditional with a big handle on the front, my counter point is that our boat is way to wide to ever be able to use hand on the tiller steering. Also, I think that's hard for me to build something like that.

Anyways we'll see who is right later on,,, probably her as is usually the case. 

 

IMG_5821.thumb.jpg.2e87616c6615437ada2051e6b57511a9.jpgIMG_5833161611616.thumb.jpg.3aeab04877ff00abf8b89e72d8327887.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
On 7/29/2021 at 4:59 PM, IanA. said:

Also got started on the helm foot rests. I scored some of this titanium tubing a few years ago and have been saving it for this job. I bought a cheap as shit used pipe bender that normally meant for copper plumping but it did the job just fine.

I decided to use tiller extension universals as the hinge mechanism as the seem light and practical. Not to mention it is one less thing I need to make myself. I think most boats use a parallel bracket and pin, but I find that a bit agricultural, heavy and overly custom for me. I will need to replace these rubber guys after a few years I'm sure but its a 5 minute job per sides when that time come.

I still haven't decided how to setup the rope control line for these yet. I could try get a local guy to weld some hoops on but I'm convinced there is a cooler solution that I just haven't thought of or come across yet. 

 

IMG_5828.thumb.jpg.81177cfe35389e73bcff9ff7127947aa.jpgIMG_5829.thumb.jpg.126451e0f821dd0bb0a8d2c5b89eefe3.jpgIMG_5830.thumb.jpg.9bb69a85b3de77f82da147359ad05c7e.jpgIMG_5831.thumb.jpg.3e2307000de9094065a3acec60f6b8e6.jpg

 

image.png.472a3387a47948f843d101e116ff0c97.png

Another and probably more robust option could be to use powerjoints from windsurfing. They are designed to enable articulation of the mast so should be plenty strong.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Picked up some of the metal hardware for the mast as well as boom interface like the goosenecks and toggles as well as the forestay attachement and some halyard exit rub bars. Can't wait to start attaching all this stuff...

 

IMG_5853.thumb.jpg.b6bcf82277d7656b27a6de2f4cb7d18b.jpgIMG_5854.thumb.jpg.07bcb6916b95895590036d95df192288.jpgIMG_5856.thumb.jpg.05342adff8364b2d34ec3ce27052ed9e.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Also dropped by the boat quickly to measure a couple things and check on the progress. The 545 is sanded back now and they're just doing some touch up filling this week. Looks like top coat will happen shortly. And then for the bottom its just another layer of VCtar2 before the antifoul. 

Step by step...

 

 

 

IMG_5848.thumb.jpg.6294532bdad03e0cc5261c3af95c56ae.jpgIMG_5849.thumb.jpg.fd0b0446d7a66bd575f02463dc6d0839.jpgIMG_5850.thumb.jpg.e94c2c6c35f12773dc619c8132fb742a.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
11 hours ago, IanA. said:

Now on to the next portion of this racing re-furb 

 

Phase 1: deconstruction

Phase 2: reconstruction 

Phase 3: assembly

 

9e48d52f-33e3-4d66-aaa4-ceeaa18b8ae9.thumb.JPG.4dac57f0b94c8c9d357bc3700cea6424.JPG

 

 

4629255a-e1ae-4105-b399-7a1b9930f997.thumb.JPG.edd60181fae5f02cd69f263ae5d27d09.JPG

Looks amazing...

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Speaking of assembly...

 

I've been quietly preparing all the deck hardware to go on, sorting out the fasteners and making sure everything is ready to go on as quickly and easily as possible.

 

 

 

image.png.5cf5963fc90976b62df9c6e453eb88b3.png

 

IMG_6048.thumb.jpg.b8c9906d418c7f4efd3978eeef26333b.jpg

 

IMG_6049.thumb.jpg.8449a261d396d420834f2a4b89b3d946.jpg

 

image.thumb.png.e997ed3d1961d337df9c6246eb9d5f2a.png

  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

Also managed to wrap up the aft antenna pod/tower thing. The wires weigh more then anything else but we're leaving them long until we get everything ran inside.

I still need to tack on the carbon pad eyes for the rear life line but I don't know what the heights are until the pushpits are mounted. 

Personally i'm not the biggest fan of the big scanstrut thru-deck gasket as its heavy and looks a bit cruisy.  Ultimately its way more waterproof then trying to run them fully hidden inside the tower. Will let this one slide for now..

 

image.thumb.png.ccaa5e9873c9e28693c3dce07d18968c.png

 

image.thumb.png.71b9ba63090b56970ae88e21034f1b19.png

 

image.thumb.png.52a24d4126fe08c822104928216c16e5.png

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites
15 hours ago, longy said:

Your wiring will be much happier if you keep it inside the strut all the way thru deck

Do you mean for U.V. or chafe maybe? I was thinking to just make a little sunbrella wrap around that covers the wires and the deck gasket.

As for the cables rubbing on the exit of the tower, I think this will be okay since this isn't a mack truck or airplane and hopefully the excessive vibrations will be minimal. Also it will be easy to inspect as part of routine maintenance since they area is visible. 

The ultimate reason for going this route is for waterproofing purposes. The only way I could see to run the wires fully inside would require a bit of blind gooping around the cables going through the deck and also making future upgrades or changes even more difficult.

Down the road I would like to add a waterproof charging socket for the deck nav gear and possibly the external antenna for the iridium go to get better range then the built in..

 

I'm trying to tiptoe the line of light, sleek and cool and then also robust, easy to maintain and future proof.

Open to better suggestions though if I am missing something here, I'm pretty keen to do this only once and the right way.

 

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Getting the IBE of the boom sorted. Bonded in some g-10 plate as spacers to center the toggle which is just snug enough now with a thin flat nylon washer on each side to hopefully help with rubbing off the black anodizing. 

The pin itself is to long to will need to cut down an re-thread one side.

IMG_6062.thumb.jpg.bf8e24452b620c27d07cb48868893877.jpg

 

IMG_6063.thumb.jpg.9ba55f511c521e37b4822d72464ba7d8.jpg

IMG_6065.thumb.jpg.9b0ba44de5217519feb3f694f6e773a9.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Got the new gori racing prop on as well as re-filling the transmission/SD leg with oil. Also changed the oil on the engine and hooked up the diesel lines to the tank in its new position on centreline. I just need to sort out the batteries and install the new throttle but otherwise the engine should hopefully start up after 2 years idle.

 

Target launch date is mid November. The goal at this point is to sort out the companion way hatch and install as much deck gear as possible before that time. Anything left undone will have to be taken care of with the boat on the water. It seems strange to launch the boat sans mast for the winter but being able to have the boat floating 5 minutes by foot away from the work shop/house should mean I can work more efficiently.

Also the winter shed storage costs aren't exactly government subsidized in the Netherlands.... So I will have to do some shit in the rain this winter but I'll have a spare boat buck or two to spend on the boat at least.

 

 

 

IMG_6082.thumb.jpg.934d344650590f763cb3e3c2c5af87a3.jpg

 

IMG_6083.thumb.jpg.8285a18748a51422533d66a50ca51458.jpg

 

IMG_6085.thumb.jpg.4bef8e8c74ba87c7ab566679800bcd9f.jpg

 

 

 

IMG_6086.thumb.jpg.731ac846ef8327ee9fe985ed1e742867.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

And the main traveller is ready to rumble. Managed to source some injection moulded plastic spacers with just the right dimensions which saves having to hole saw these out of some sheet plastic which i've done before on jobs and didn't look forward to on mine. This will be the same setup for the athwartships jib tracks assuming they ever actually show up..

 

IMG_6088.thumb.jpg.77e4ed636f718a81fe72905c350fd48a.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Finally decided on which direction to go with the main hatch. Plexi-glass for the slider is ordered and just need to get this all down to the boat to pre-fit and trim the track length's down to the final length. Will also need to splash a quick template off the coach roof to build the forward flange that will seal the front edge down.

Re-building this hatch system has been a bit of a saga but finally feel like we're making headway. I guess that's what having a launching deadline does for you. 

 

IMG_6090.thumb.jpg.55de9b94f918f6faadae9563111cd3cd.jpg

 

IMG_6091.thumb.jpg.bdca44886eccef83c5390c6e78a9c50d.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Antenna wires - when they exit the post/mast whatever & then go into a deck gland, they are subject to UV & physical damage from getting kicked/whatever. Plus it doesnt look very good. Well worth the effort to keep all the wiring internal down thru the deck

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
On 9/23/2021 at 5:53 PM, IanA. said:

Open to better suggestions though if I am missing something here, I'm pretty keen to do this only once and the right way.

I can see things getting caught in the space 'tween wires , tower and deck . Just feels bad :( .

Gotta vote with longy on straight down , maybe mouse in an extra for your future planned upgrades ?

Link to post
Share on other sites

I guess I meant "open to other suggestions with realistic possibilities".

It's probably easy to say that its well worth the effort if the effort is not fully understood.

In our case it would mean delaying the launch that's in less then 2 months to start over. It means we lose our window for getting out for the shed. Being stuck in the shed means many boat bucks more in costs not to mention the hour of driving each way.

It also means no reliable waterproof path for the cables into the transom. It means having water build up in a very inaccessible place. All this because of the way it looks and someone "might" kick it. The UV argument is not an argument because A_ it has a cover and B_ we're in Holland.

Personally I think anyone doing any project on their boat is already making an effort. Just because some part of it is different then what you do on your sport boat restoration doesn't mean there isn't maximum effort already being applied. 

 

I'm open to any help of course! The list of remaining works is based on a fixed amount of labour hours per week boxed in by a hard fast launch and eventual sailing date. If we can increase the amount of man hours available then we can definitely look to tackle more complex projects.

Happy to host anyone that can wield a guard-less angle grinder and mix epoxy. Beer fridge is always kept at a reasonable minimum stock level.

 

 

 

 

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Got the carbon tracks bonded onto the new hood yesterday. Took a bit of checking and re-checking the design to make sure we're on target. Next is to take it down to the boat and pre-fit. I left the tracks long for now and will trim in place. The acrylic piece that will use as the sliding portion should arrive this week and will need to fit that as well. 

It all looks a bit rough now but once it gets a good sand up and some non-skid it should blend onto the cabin top well enough. 

image.thumb.png.bf5a4c80dbc1835060e5c45f9a6c49f3.png

 

image.png.21ac0e684af152708bc5e43d7c02d28b.png

 

IMG_6094.thumb.jpg.5a223d47850eb44cc38baf2db36fe720.jpg

 

image.thumb.png.a5bd43c5d51f25f3f1d9c3b2edeb678d.png

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...

Managed to borrow the in-laws boat for a couple weeks to do some cruising up in the Frisian islands. Seemed better then staying home and working…

401639BE-572B-4E33-8A55-B592ACE9419A.thumb.jpeg.06f9a568cbb17d6537ddc85dec29841b.jpeg


 

Back at it though, drilled the first hole in the new paint which felt like a big moment and then quickly moved on to drilling a bunch more holes. Figured I start with the stanchions and pushpits  so I could at least get some semblance of safety working up on the deck. The pulpit is essentially ready but I’m fighting with the bow light cable which needs to snake through all the tubing and then down below. The forestay tang is mounted so I’ve just run the temporary lifelines through there. It maybe doesn’t look like a whole lot but it was a pretty tedious job getting into all the different corners inside for nut tightening.  A lot of the other hardware to mount should be more accessible from down below and go a bit faster.  Just happy I did all the work back filling and mounting backing plates a year ago so now I just have to drill, seal and mount.

B2419E94-044D-42C1-B767-D76C15B08703.thumb.jpeg.3164de684be58b67e3a6c219ada7942e.jpeg

  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

This should hopefully be the final test fit for the main hatch. I need to order some different size plastic runners as I under estimated the camber of the cabin top. The runners are intentionally left long and will be one of the last things trimmed. I’m still not set on the exact fore/aft position and will probably decide that in the moment when it comes time to mounting.  

 

F5D369D6-D7C2-4A1A-B365-F80CA727936A.thumb.jpeg.764fb7eef71ae1bb39d7df425ac76162.jpeg
 

 

13863EDC-2E2E-4291-84D4-B6703368A04B.thumb.jpeg.8e34054c0c44b2d60ca534e00f9fc6c7.jpeg

  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

Had to go to Spain last week which didn't fit well into the boat assembly schedule. Was able to steal some time back on sunday and got to work installing the Lewmar deck hatches as well as the mainsheet traveller and some other things. 

Its a pain in the ass and time consuming doing this solo. Happy with the results so far. Only the boat is covered in someone else's antifoul dust so looing forward to getting outside and giving her a good rinse. Will try and put in some good hours this coming weekend and keep plugging along.

 

IMG_0043.thumb.jpg.4a89a2f1e1f7d6d87904f95c58a13020.jpg

 

IMG_0070.thumb.jpg.869f295f903b9dc6efe627d0373ae090.jpg

 

IMG_0044.thumb.jpg.284171a736ba9dc3e83f88b17619b87c.jpg

 

IMG_0068.thumb.jpg.4d85652657690b08a2870f4ba78e4309.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Was able to get the instrument mast mounted as well as the cables and deck flange. Pretty happy with the way it came out and will be nice having the rear lifelines deflect behind it as its free's up a bit more deck space behind the traveller.

 

image.thumb.png.4df9a711bd44e4017d30d9f3eb384cdf.png

 

image.thumb.png.d80427f0c94fa9c136da49ccfee47007.png

 

image.thumb.png.7f1e5079eab7cd249e97d374f472e3f1.png

image.thumb.png.8485ac0c6d397505757917f4ced2f2d3.png

 

image.thumb.png.3b0ac7f3eef1269e6fd867cc1ce7a29b.png

 

image.thumb.png.8248c5733f92ca2ec3ad6f2a257c0d96.png

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Panic is starting to set in. Lost my help for this weekend and starting to run out of things I can do without someone on the other side holding the wrench.

Still plenty to struggle with and I just have to focus on one step at a time.

 

Auto ratchets for the spin sheet are in...

IMG_0001.thumb.jpg.50167e7117773cc05d982ca9395b1bee.jpg

 

IMG_0005.thumb.jpg.46a51e9613f42267a6f4db53b3027036.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

After a lot of swearing and broken mouse-lines, I managed to get the bow light wires out the right way to be led down below.  The back legs still need to be bolted down but it is essentially in position now. I was able to take measurements for the lifelines as well and started splicing those last night.

I'm waiting on some new plastic for the runners on the main hatch as we decided to switch from black to white to better blend into the cabin top. 

Name and logo decals have been measured for and just need to be cut. Bunch of other stuff still needs to happen as well...

 

image.thumb.png.5e33489ebfe82ac980f38cc5560e18fe.png

 

image.thumb.png.9024d8bba243468e827c7f59b9ca79fa.png

 

image.png.453e20310e0170831f4836e511ebd790.png

 

image.thumb.png.3ebd2580a0573d3d28c693f2c2408ccb.png

 

image.thumb.png.bc3ca858d5829b74dd4fca62e654a852.png

 

image.thumb.png.1db718fe4a289dde027c48e80dfe5e33.png

  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking good. You may want to add some support struts to the stanchions to beef up the area in the hiking zone. Easier on your deck joint. Maybe include the new rear lifeline support as well in case somebody leans against it too hard.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Finished with the pulpit and got the wiring led down below cleanly. Also the padeye for the jib tack is in place. Pretty happy with all the structure work we did in the bow earlier on, rock solid now.

Also managed to get the new throttle control hooked up and installed. The gear shift cable is actually pretty seized up so will probably need to replace. It shifts, but not as nice as you would want for a new throttle.

Also marked and drilled the holes for the primary winches. Only drilled through the top skin and reamed out the core which was then back filled with pro-set. Should make for a good connection. 

IMG_0029.thumb.jpg.ba2e5ddb8a82b4fa3032fd8196d99036.jpg

 

 

IMG_0032.thumb.jpg.5353ca8a242718750a5d09e07b7696e8.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
1 hour ago, IanA. said:

time to get this boat on the road
 

1563CF09-DE9A-49D3-B684-05EACEFDBFDF.thumb.jpeg.da4f94bcedd88bdbdcf520658abd7bc0.jpeg
 

81FC84FC-B9A3-4AC0-9F26-B7102A37766C.thumb.jpeg.ccbcab906c81770cb37dd50c96b14776.jpeg

 

724F5458-F70E-4D60-9E29-80EC30EA3984.thumb.jpeg.5a4f4855b1ebeba35763494ce8bdb7d6.jpeg

How are you going to get it out of there now?  Or is the plan to keep it parked in there a while longer?

Looks amazing by the way

Link to post
Share on other sites