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Halyard slips in clutch?

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Ok so I replaced some halyards from 7/16" double braid to  5/16" single braid control-DPX. I suspected I may have slippage and thought I could just replace the clutches but isn't there a way to to bury line inside the 5/16" or is it on the outside..... and what exactley is the process??? New clutches are pretty pricey!

Thanks for the ideas!!

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Going from a fatter double braid to a thinner single braid consisting mainly of dyneema like DPX is a recipe for slipping. You can thicken it up by burying a line in the core but I'd also put a cover on them for the section that lives in the clutch. Both are pretty simple. Here's the cover part:


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Had that trouble on my genoa halyard which was fixed by going to a high load cam($) sized for the new line diameter, which involves complete disassembly, a hassle.  On other boats the add a cover didn't work too well;  the core still slipped a bit and bunched up the added cover, chewing it up.  No experience with bulking the core up by burying a line in it but it sounds like it'll work.

There's other options not mentioned above(?):

  • Get the right cam for the new line diameter, and get most aggressive cam for yourextra_main_halyard_clutch.jpg.df2f9d92304da749702c1885152f7207.jpg new line diameter ($). 
  • Two clutches in series ($$$).  They have to be manipulated properly so clutch #2 is doing its fair share.  Of course twice the cost but if you have racks of triples a single clutch for only the halyard is less expensive than a second triple.
  • Some sort of specialty thickening goo injected into the halyard which makes it nearly rock solid in the clutch segment.  Was on the market years ago but now I can't find it.  Was on a boat that  tried it and it worked pretty good for a few seasons until the halyard was retired because of age.
  • "No need to go aloft" halyard locks with auto release which also halve the compression load on the mast.  ($$$$$)  Involves a short wire span  or trickery at the masthead shackle end and perfection concerning design parameters.  Not worth it in a club racing/cruising environment.

I'll mention a bad habit I've seen on boats which bothers me.  Hoisting through any closed clutch at high speed is effectively sandpapering the clutch cam with every hoist, is slower because of added friction performance-wise, and can quickly make a serviceable clutch into a slipper.  As mastman I've tried to complain to the pit person that they can't keep up tailing through a closed clutch to deaf ears.  Yah, rage like a gorilla until you see/feel me start to struggle near the top of the hoist, *then* bang the clutch closed.  We'll grunt the last three feet together.  They counter it's a safety feature?

Also, cruiser friends with clutch racks on the cabintop commented they'll re-lead  high load halyards which have worn out their clutch to a sister clutch whose service has been low load/low line speed (vang/cunningham/outhaul) until the entire triple is burnt (years), then replace all the cams in one fell swoop.

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10 hours ago, silent bob said:

How many times does it have to be said that Clutches are not designed to take the full load of a Genoa halyard without slipping?  A Spinlock Jammer, yes.  Keep the halyard on the winch!

What he said.  Doubly true if you are using some silky, slippery high tech line rather than some salt-infused, sandpapery cruising line like Stayset X.  ["Oh, so that's why you racers have all those cabin top winches..."]

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On 1/8/2020 at 11:04 AM, crankcall said:

If you decide to bulk up the core, dont just do a 6" section where the clutch grabs, they work better if you do about 2-3ft, they dont bunch up in the middle.

Two meters, minimum!  Don’t think that adding a 4mm insert to a 8mm core will result in a 12mm section in the clutch, it will end up at 9mm!  It takes a 8mm insert into a 8mm core to end up with a 12mm (almost!)  cross section!  Do the math!  You have to add the surface area of the core and insert.

The diameter of the new line is the square root of (combined cores/3.14159)*2




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