Jump to content

Recommended Posts

My lovely and longsuffering wife decided to surprise me for Christmas this year with a new set of sails for our trusty little Wasabi, through Dave at Bellingham Sails and Repair. Since we'd put quite a lot of miles on Wasabi in the last 3 years, I figured it was time for a more critical look at things. I'm sure everyone reading this knows how the next bit went on a 45 year old boat. Since I'd picked up a thing or two during my stint at the boatyard a few years back, I thought this would be a great opportunity to get some work done that would simply not be worth paying someone else to do. I don't have $500k yacht finish carpentry skills, but San Juan 24? All day and twice on Sunday.

Some of the problems:

Now that I've learned a bit about what I'm looking at, this is a bit of a mess:

2mCFoP7.jpg

The keel stringers had rotted and detached from the bilge, allowing a bit of keel wiggle:

wr3aMTA.jpg

nqMjS5x.jpg

The port chainplate was totally glassed over, making inspection impossible:

YG66A6X.jpg

And the starboard chainplate gusset/cabinet side was wet and soft:

hnJMkuI.jpg

YEDHxJQ.jpg

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I started by cutting a new teak compression post, flared at the top to at least look like it's trying to support the mast foot:

HaKEIBV.jpg

Then a new bilge cover from 1/2" teak veneer plywood with epoxy over teak oil:

yiOTEKr.jpg

6 layers of glass cloth wetted with epoxy onto the port chainplate anchor gusset, which will double as part of a future cabinet:

6InxVAT.jpg

And epoxy on the starboard chainplate anchor gusset. Also here I'm in the middle of oiling the compression post.

rPG2TXo.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

The old chainplates has tiny scratches I couldn't polish out, so I assumed they were cracks and made new ones from 316l. I also made proper beefy backing plates for them to help spread the load.

Uka2ktY.jpg

ANATWTj.jpg

G0QoOE3.jpg

fDcXUhO.jpg

 

I know, they have tool marks on them. I don't give a shit, they look great installed and they're 3 times stronger than they were when new.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I put in a temporary 2x2 compression post and pulled the old one, and the old shitty bulkhead:

ByNx7PF.jpg

There was a notch cut into the bulkhead to accommodate a deck organizer bolt, so I relocated the deck organizer, plugged the old hole and cut the new bulkhead cleaner.

61JHWiV.jpg

Here's the old port side chainplate gusset. Not all the way rotten, but definitely not sound:

K3OO2xS.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Installing the port side chainplate and anchor, filleted in with West epoxy thickened with colloidal silica. It got tabbed in with glass cloth and epoxy after it cured.

shNG570.jpg

Now's when I started wondering what to do about the V-berth (and whether to just sink the boat and call it a day):

iRwkJVx.jpg

SJ24 life hack: cardboard patterns.

HdB6BdH.jpg

May as well take a look under the bow cap too, right?

SDIrXGu.jpg

Cutting all this bullshit out SUCKED but I was glad it got done:

UkmVNQ7.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

While I was at it, I built a new table from 3/4" marine plywood with a nice looking teak veneer. I ripped new battens (I know that's not the right word) from teak strips left over from the compression post and rounded the edges on the router table. The resulting effect was nice.

M27lZFd.jpg

zWrv7Ag.jpg

RCjuOXW.jpg

After much measuring and many many dry-fits, I cut the new plywood bulkhead and oiled it according to the excellent instructions in Rebecca Whitman's book:

RQHJUtU.jpg

4IqIiIX.jpg

This also seemed like the time to varnish the old oak tiller:

7xiz8kk.jpg

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Cleaning the V-berth wasn't as bad as I thought it would be, it took about 4 hours total:

vffsTQb.jpg

q5pI7Mc.jpg

I just wiped it down with some 202 and went right over the bare weave with a nice semi-gloss marine enamel. It looks amazing, for a San Juan 24.

krKVrcG.jpg

Putting it all back together was really fun:

rkNovRz.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Meanwhile, she got a new masthead and new sheaves on the base:

yXYmgZW.jpg

New antenna and wire, new jib halyard restrainer plus new cap shrouds, forestay and backstay with proper toggles from Kent at Northwest Rigging:

UADVGUn.jpg

New wire lifelines too. Not sure about these yet, we'll see how well they hold up.

0hI7xhf.jpg

FINALLY

zi4H1sN.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

I just had time to take her out once before leaving for overseas work. Luckily it was a great day and I got to really put little Wasabi through her paces. The new sails are really different, I can see a few things I was doing with the old shagged sails that don't work as well. It's gonna be a great year for Wasabi and us, and she has a new lease on life.

Oyo6qfK.jpg

cgXCxmO.jpg

KB0GXoW.jpg

LZXGNnP.jpg

  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

Keel stringers I replaced with 4 of these made out of oak from Lowe's:

5uxyuhB.jpg

Filleted in with epoxy and colloidal silica:

DpbRBWV.jpg

Then tabbed in with glass cloth wetted with epoxy resin:

wTmA4xu.jpg

 

I cleaned up under the bow cap and sealed the tiny separations and screw holes with epoxy resin:

WdvALZ4.jpg

I cleaned, inspected and re-bedded the forestay tang with new hardware and cleaned up and repaired the bow cap before replacing it. 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, T and J Racing said:

Keel stringers I replaced with 4 of these made out of oak from Lowe's:

5uxyuhB.jpg

Filleted in with epoxy and colloidal silica:

DpbRBWV.jpg

Then tabbed in with glass cloth wetted with epoxy resin:

wTmA4xu.jpg

 

I cleaned up under the bow cap and sealed the tiny separations and screw holes with epoxy resin:

WdvALZ4.jpg

I cleaned, inspected and re-bedded the forestay tang with new hardware and cleaned up and repaired the bow cap before replacing it. 

One suggestion before buttoning it up... I know there is very little room under the cabin sole, but putting a T or hat section over the top of those bilge sump stringers (they would more properly be called "floors" as structural members IMHO) will really strengthen the whole area of the keel root. This is one of the weak points of any fin keel boat and these are no exception.

Last thing, have you already, or are you considering, a new improved rudder blade design? The SJ-24 is a fun little boat but it's a classic broach coach.

FB- Doug

Link to post
Share on other sites
8 minutes ago, Steam Flyer said:

 (they would more properly be called "floors" as structural members IMHO)

No opinion about it - transverse members are floors.

Stringers are longitudinal.

Link to post
Share on other sites
5 minutes ago, SloopJonB said:
10 minutes ago, Steam Flyer said:

(they would more properly be called "floors" as structural members IMHO)

No opinion about it - transverse members are floors.

Stringers are longitudinal.

Gimme a break, I'm tryna be nice.

Don't get me started, you know what I can be like............

FB- Doug

Link to post
Share on other sites

Great work and impressive skills. Awesome. One note: I have not had luck epoxying red oak (also purchased from a big box store). Not sure what type of oak you used for your transverse-stringers-floor-beams. Might keep an eye on them over time, esp if they are red oak. I had a beautiful tiller I laminated from strips of red oak and pine delaminate on me on a stormy day. Again- beautiful work.

Snubs

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, snubber said:

Great work and impressive skills. Awesome. One note: I have not had luck epoxying red oak (also purchased from a big box store). Not sure what type of oak you used for your transverse-stringers-floor-beams. Might keep an eye on them over time, esp if they are red oak. I had a beautiful tiller I laminated from strips of red oak and pine delaminate on me on a stormy day. Again- beautiful work.

Snubs

Red oak has no place on a boat - it rots easily.

Even white oak is problematic in that it blackens and stains - far less prone to rot but it ain't teak.

Link to post
Share on other sites
57 minutes ago, SloopJonB said:

Red oak has no place on a boat - it rots easily.

Even white oak is problematic in that it blackens and stains - far less prone to rot but it ain't teak.

Good stuff, thanks for the input. The oak floors are a problem for me and I plan to keep an eye on them and replace them next year anyway, lessons learned and all. Aside from using different wood, I made them with sharp corners on top, which of course the glass cloth did not like. I'll spend the year re-thinking the approach with a different material, physical profile and anchoring method in mind. Meanwhile it has improved pointing and the combination of factors has allowed me to tack through 90 degrees with the jib for the first time. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Bad news: Looks like I just lost my job in offshore oil & gas installation (no surprise really). 

Good news: We have an SJ24 that costs about $25 for 3 days of sailing & camping in the San Juans, plus we're paid up for a year of racing with our local YC. 

Also good news: my current hitch overseas will likely end next week instead of late September.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
On 4/1/2020 at 3:07 AM, T and J Racing said:

Bad news: Looks like I just lost my job in offshore oil & gas installation (no surprise really). 

Good news: We have an SJ24 that costs about $25 for 3 days of sailing & camping in the San Juans, plus we're paid up for a year of racing with our local YC. 

Also good news: my current hitch overseas will likely end next week instead of late September.

Sorry to hear about the first part. Good luck!

Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, T and J Racing said:

Thanks. It's fine, I'm actually thinking of starting my own company so I don't have to live and die by oil prices and OPEX budgets. 

One word: plastics.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
15 hours ago, T and J Racing said:

Thanks. It's fine, I'm actually thinking of starting my own company so I don't have to live and die by oil prices and OPEX budgets. 

Excellent idea. Time to get off that roller coaster. I did it for 30 years. It was a great job in the good old days but the bean counters and now the green movement have fucked it. There is life outside the patch. Enjoy sailing your lovely boat when this virus lets up.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...