Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hey gang,

I need to replace my propeller shaft coupling. Can anyone confirm that the output flange on the HBW-5 transmission is 4 inches across? I can't accurately get a tape measure on mine.

I've found lots of documentation on these transmissions but the size of the output flange is never listed. 4 inches seems to be an "industry standard" but I didn't want to take it for granted.

 

Thanks!

Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, yoyo said:

I see 102mm from an old manual.  Thats right near 4 inches 

Awesome.  For some reason,  I couldn't get the full image to open from the Google thumbnail. Thanks!

Link to post
Share on other sites

You could get a sewing tape around it to get the circumference and know that figure equals 2* Pi * r.   Or you could get something to use as a caliper and measure the gap... large vice grips? C clamp?  I would do that rather than go by the drawing... 

Link to post
Share on other sites

@yoyo  I hate to be a bother, but the label has long since fallen off of my transmission. I'm 99% sure it's an HBW-5, but it might also be a -10.  Apparently the Tartan 33 may have been equipped with either one.

Is the output flange the same size for the -10?

I'll try to get down there with some internet photos to identify exactly which one it is.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 4 months later...

Ok Brain Trust, my Hurth went up this morning.  I have no interest in rebuilding it. I will either replace with a new/reconditioned OR this:

https://www.twindisc.it/technodrive/italy/invertitore-marino/pdf/TMC_40P.pdf

This unit is sold by Sound Marine and Diesel. Anyone have any feedback about them? 

http://www.soundmarinediesel.com/transmissions.shtml

It does seem like a bolt-up solution. My main concern is the drop/angle of the output flange. It needs to match the old HBW-5 pretty closely. The good news is, my Sigma Drive coupling can compensate for up to 3 degrees of angle. I prefer this transmission because it uses a cone clutch instead of discs and because it'll bolt up to a Beta diesel in the event of a re-power in the future.

Thoughts?

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've had a TMC 60 for ten years. Have not given it any thought. So I suppose it is quietly doing its job very well. On a Beta 38.

The offset being different would be a concern. I don't think it is well addressed only by coupling angle capability. Better to adjust the engine up or down as much as possible.

How much is the difference?

Link to post
Share on other sites

OK, its been about a decade so my memory may be off a bit-- I think the Hurth gear I had was the HBW5.... it went out and I contacted THE guy in the Boston area who said he could rebuild it for me but then said "if it was mine, I'd just replace it with a PRM." So, that's what I did. Drop-in replacement except for the shift linkage being on the other side of the case necessitating some cable rerouting. Haven't thought about it since.... 

(all bets are off if I am remembering which Hurth I had incorrectly....(

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, El Boracho said:

I've had a TMC 60 for ten years. Have not given it any thought. So I suppose it is quietly doing its job very well. On a Beta 38.

The offset being different would be a concern. I don't think it is well addressed only by coupling angle capability. Better to adjust the engine up or down as much as possible.

How much is the difference?

I have to carefully examine the dimension spec sheets in this thread and compare. I know this- The TMC is 1.5cm shorter than the Hurth which is not an issue. I have to look at all the other dimensions.

@Anomaly2 is correct that the shift lever is on the opposite side but my cables will reach with no problem. I'm pretty sure this will drop right in, I just want to dot all of my i's and cross all of my t's before I pull the trigger.

You hit on the key point of getting the TMC-  When/if my Universal craps out, I will re-power with a Beta 25 or 28 and this transmission will bolt right up. I won't have to worry about putting an obsolete transmission with the Beta or buying a new transmission with the Beta.

Link to post
Share on other sites

In post #3 the HBW 5 is drawn with a 62mm vertical shaft offset. In post #12 the pdf drawing of the TMC 40P is 67.5mm. That is 5.5 mm (a hair less than a quarter inch in cornhusker units). Probably within range of the engine mounts to raise the engine. Or a spacer under the mounts if not.

The bell housing bolt pattern looks to be the same. And the spline.

When I did what you are doing, once, the Beta agent had me bring my transmission. As proof, they fit in in the shop for free when I went to pick it up. Since there is always some doubt in the marine industry where measuring devices are apparently quite rare.

Link to post
Share on other sites
10 minutes ago, El Boracho said:

In post #3 the HBW 5 is drawn with a 62mm vertical shaft offset. In post #12 the pdf drawing of the TMC 40P is 67.5mm. That is 5.5 mm (a hair less than a quarter inch in cornhusker units). Probably within range of the engine mounts to raise the engine. Or a spacer under the mounts if not.

The bell housing bolt pattern looks to be the same. And the spline.

When I did what you are doing, once, the Beta agent had me bring my transmission. As proof, they fit in in the shop for free when I went to pick it up. Since there is always some doubt in the marine industry where measuring devices are apparently quite rare.

Thank you.  This is exactly what I needed to know.  I've been squinting at the diagrams all evening. 

Sound Marine is in another state.  Their disclaimer is that it is my responsibility to make sure it'll fit. 

I can dick with my engine mounts or I can buy one of their refurbished Hurths. I'll look at my mounts and see how gnarly they are and if they have 1/4 of adjustment in them. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

@El Boracho Upon closer examination, I think I may actually have the HWB-10/ZF-10M.  If I'm looking at what you looked at, the offset is still 62mm. If you look at the .pdf in post #10 upthread you'll see it. Would you mind confirming this for me?

Fortunately, the Tartan 33 owner's manual actually includes the information that the boat was built with either the HBW5 or the 10 and includes the gear ratios for both. If the boat was equipped with the HBW-5, the ratio was 2:1.  If you got the HBW-10 the gear ratio was 2.14:1.  The Technodrive is 2:1 so I'm good there.

I'm glad a holiday weekend is coming up. This will give me the opportunity to inspect and lubricate the engine mounts to see if I can get that 1/4 inch of lift.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes. Same 62 mm offset. About an inch longer. They both come in several gear ratios as listed in the tables. Note that ratios that seem numerically close actually cause a significant rpm change.

They goofed the drawing captions: with/without flange. Get the right one.

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, El Boracho said:

Yes. Same 62 mm offset. About an inch longer. They both come in several gear ratios as listed in the tables. Note that ratios that seem numerically close actually cause a significant rpm change.

They goofed the drawing captions: with/without flange. Get the right one.

I had a good, lengthy conversation with the Technodrive vendor.  He confirmed your offsets and that I need to just crank up the motor mounts 1/4 inch.

I'll need to buy some shift cable bracketry. He told me that there were 3 different damper plates used with the 5424/M30. We won't know which one I have until I take it apart.  I'm going to take some photos but it looks like I'll move forward with the Technodrive purchase.

It's definitely the smart way to go considering that a Beta 25 could be in my eventual future.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, TMC-40 is in the mail.

First- after comparing photos with the .pdf in this thread, I have an HBW-10, not a -5.  I spec'd for both, so this changes nothing.

Here's the million dollar question:  How many inches aft must I slide the transmission in order to get the splined shaft out of the engine so I can remove it?  This will mean the difference between doing the job in the water and scheduling a haul-out.

@SloopJonB I realize you have a v-drive, but you removed your Hurth about a dozen times recently. How far did you have to slide the transmission back to get it out?

The .pdf seems to say that the splined section of the shaft is 54mm or 2.13 inches. Is that how far, or should I expect to have to move it more?

Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, Ajax said:

Ok, TMC-40 is in the mail.

First- after comparing photos with the .pdf in this thread, I have an HBW-10, not a -5.  I spec'd for both, so this changes nothing.

Here's the million dollar question:  How many inches aft must I slide the transmission in order to get the splined shaft out of the engine so I can remove it?  This will mean the difference between doing the job in the water and scheduling a haul-out.

@SloopJonB I realize you have a v-drive, but you removed your Hurth about a dozen times recently. How far did you have to slide the transmission back to get it out?

The .pdf seems to say that the splined section of the shaft is 54mm or 2.13 inches. Is that how far, or should I expect to have to move it more?

That sounds about right - it wasn't far.

I didn't have the room to move it far - that bulkhead with the filters on it is glassed in place.

image.thumb.png.2f9f5a27c13a586790a957dde44f33b7.png

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

My mechanic took off our gearbox so he could helicoil the oil drain screw.

Some PO had stripped it and stuck it back in with goo. Years later, just getting ready to haul the anchor in Grace Harbour I found the transmission oil had all leaked out and then had to figure out some cunning way of keeping the oil in the tranny for the remaining 10 days of our cruise. Two thumbs up for Permatex Form-a-Gasket, which I always have on board.

Anyhow, I had to get a diver in because I had mounted the aft shaft zinc too close to the strut and he had to move it up the shaft a few inches so there was enough room for my mechanic to get the gearbox off.

That whole episode sucked balls.

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 11/25/2020 at 2:32 PM, Ajax said:

Ok, TMC-40 is in the mail.

First- after comparing photos with the .pdf in this thread, I have an HBW-10, not a -5.  I spec'd for both, so this changes nothing.

Here's the million dollar question:  How many inches aft must I slide the transmission in order to get the splined shaft out of the engine so I can remove it?  This will mean the difference between doing the job in the water and scheduling a haul-out.

@SloopJonB I realize you have a v-drive, but you removed your Hurth about a dozen times recently. How far did you have to slide the transmission back to get it out?

The .pdf seems to say that the splined section of the shaft is 54mm or 2.13 inches. Is that how far, or should I expect to have to move it more?

I'd guess just the minimum is in the spline. About an inch. Because the flex plate is normally almost against the crankshaft flange. The crank flange normally only allows a smaller pilot bearing to be inserted in applications with a clutch. But just a guess. Worth a try. But often not too difficult to slide an engine forward....heh...from 10 minutes to 10 hours...

Link to post
Share on other sites
14 hours ago, El Boracho said:

I'd guess just the minimum is in the spline. About an inch. Because the flex plate is normally almost against the crankshaft flange. The crank flange normally only allows a smaller pilot bearing to be inserted in applications with a clutch. But just a guess. Worth a try. But often not too difficult to slide an engine forward....heh...from 10 minutes to 10 hours...

My engine has a weird tri-pod engine mount setup. Not so easy to slide forward. Before I go that route, I'll motor/tow over to the yard around the corner and haul out. That way I can completely remove the coupling, shaft, log hose and stuffing box which would probably give a total of 5 inches which would be way more than enough.

First thing I'm going to do in a few minutes, is disconnect the coupling from the transmission and see if the shaft hanging in place causes any kind of leak or weep.

UPS says new transmission arrives tomorrow. So far, Sound Marine has been great to deal with.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, I removed all of the hoses for the water heater and heat exchanger,  moved the HX out of the way. Next, I cracked loose all of the bell housing bolts.  None were stuck or corroded (Amen).

Ran out of time.  We'll see if I can complete removal tomorrow. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, Ajax said:

Well, I removed all of the hoses for the water heater and heat exchanger,  moved the HX out of the way. Next, I cracked loose all of the bell housing bolts.  None were stuck or corroded (Amen).

Ran out of time.  We'll see if I can complete removal tomorrow. 

I envy your enthusiasm for attacking stuff like this, I used to have that enthusiasm. Damn, I have been fixing shit on boats for about 40 years and now sometimes I get tired.

Link to post
Share on other sites
14 hours ago, Ishmael said:

I envy your enthusiasm for attacking stuff like this, I used to have that enthusiasm. Damn, I have been fixing shit on boats for about 40 years and now sometimes I get tired.

It's not enthusiasm for fettling, it's desperately wanting to sail again and not liking it when shit's broke. It eats at me.

Ok, transmission came free from the engine with no hassle at all. However, I simply don't have enough space to twist it free from the engine and propeller shaft. The tail hangs up on the shaft coupling. I'm shy by a half inch, maybe a little more.

I can push the shaft out of the boat to near flush with the stuffing box and slip the Sigma Drive shaft coupling off. This will give me oodles of room and the transmission and bell housing will pop right out. Problem is, I have no way to push the shaft back into the boat. There won't be anything to grab hold of to pull it back in. I'd do this myself in a heartbeat except that the water is 54F degrees.

A haul out will run me over $400. A diver will run me at least $100 and I'll need him twice- once to pull the shaft out and once to shove it back in, so $200. All for the want of a half inch or so.

Link to post
Share on other sites

How about clamping a hose clamp around the tip of the shaft - you'll only lose 1/2" of clearance and it will give you something to grab to slide it back forward.

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, SloopJonB said:

How about clamping a hose clamp around the tip of the shaft - you'll only lose 1/2" of clearance and it will give you something to grab to slide it back forward.

To do that, I have to get the coupling off. To get the coupling off, I have to push it almost flush with the packing box. Nothing left to put the hose clamp on.

Link to post
Share on other sites
15 minutes ago, El Boracho said:

Stop being a snowflake. Pop the engine off its mounts. No big deal if the screws/nuts/bolts can be reached.

It weighs 450lbs. The mount is tripod style.  If it were 4 mounts evenly supported,  i could do it. 

Hmmmm... perhaps I could jack up just the aft end to clear the packing box. I'll look into that. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, Ajax said:

It weighs 450lbs. The mount is tripod style.  If it were 4 mounts evenly supported,  i could do it. 

Hmmmm... perhaps I could jack up just the aft end to clear the packing box. I'll look into that. 

Don't tweek stuff if you don't have too.  Most production boats have a decent amount of room on the engine beds.  I would unbolt the soft mounts from the bed and move the engine fwd to get clearance.

This is very important, whatever you do you have to redo in reverse, dissassembley with tweeks and pulling here and there can get things to come apart however it can be a whole shitshow trying to reassemble.  Whatever plan you go with make sure to take into account the going back together part.

Didn't read the whole thread but typically you can get a like for like on the transmission with at least one other brand.

A 1/4 ton come along has almost no body and can take up a very small throw, I would guess you could rig aft with a little angle to help it move fwd.

Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, Ajax said:

It weighs 450lbs. The mount is tripod style.  If it were 4 mounts evenly supported,  i could do it. 

Hmmmm... perhaps I could jack up just the aft end to clear the packing box. I'll look into that. 

A couple of basketballs and you're good.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Double success today!

I used a small pry bar and carefully pushed the shaft out of the Sigma Drive coupling. This allowed me to get the coupling off and out of the way of the transmission output flange. I did NOT have to push the shaft to the point where there was no stub left to grab. Plenty left.

A twist, a grunt and POP! Transmission and bell housing are in my lap. Weighs about 30lbs and I tossed it into the cockpit.

Next, all the damper plate allen screws came out with no problem. The damper plate was not rusted to the flywheel and fell right out.  The new transmission is shorter, which means it will all go back together easier than it came apart. The only reason I'm not installing the new transmission right now is because I need to order the damper plate.

This whole thing is a blessing in disguise, I guess. There are some hoses that I will replace, I will remove and clean out the HX, and I'll clean the engine bay up while awaiting the damper plate. The black dusty crud is the slowly degrading insulation from inside the engine cover, nothing to be concerned about. In fact, maybe I'll buy some of that reflective engine insulation and get rid of the black nasty crap.

 

 

20201128_100124.jpg

20201129_104952.jpg

20201129_111919.jpg

  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

Great news.

 

One word: paint.

Makes everything much nicer, brighter, easier to notice & track leaks etc. etc.

And this is a once in a lifetime opportunity to do it.

Link to post
Share on other sites

It'll be that clean when I put it back together but I doubt it'll stay that way for long.

Hey, I found "Universal Gold" high temp engine paint. Whodathunk it?

https://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP132-Engine-Enamel-Universal/dp/B000CPAV7U

And DupliColor:

https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-DE1604-Ceramic-Universal-Engine/dp/B00296BAZW/ref=pd_lpo_263_t_1/134-9054236-5122164?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00296BAZW&pd_rd_r=a37ed0d3-d4f5-4e38-a831-93c64cc7004f&pd_rd_w=PF3cd&pd_rd_wg=KAkYK&pf_rd_p=7b36d496-f366-4631-94d3-61b87b52511b&pf_rd_r=84KHA2Z3JS4J34W8MFTQ&psc=1&refRID=84KHA2Z3JS4J34W8MFTQ

Most of my hoses are a high quality brand and in good shape but the HX has this 3 inch section plumbed to a metal elbow to make a 90 degree turn. That little section does NOT look healthy.  When I disconnected the water heater and HX hoses, I plugged them with my wooden bungs normally reserved for emergencies. I need to buy some more of these.

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, SloopJonB said:

Then paint the engine red instead of gold.

LOL... there's no room to paint the engine. I can freshen up the bell housing. The engine itself is fairly clean (except for black dust from the insulation) and the paint is in fairly good shape.

Don't worry, when the engine dies, the transmission will match the new engine.

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 11/28/2020 at 9:48 AM, Ajax said:

I'm shy by a half inch, maybe a little more.

Arrgh. Hate it when my sarcastic prediction comes true but glad you got it apart.

I'm of the belief that all engines should be painted white. Makes oil leaks easy to spot and encourages you to keep them clean. 

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Zonker said:

I'm of the belief that all engines should be painted white. Makes oil leaks easy to spot and encourages you to keep them clean. 

That's what I did with the Perky in my old Columbia.

 

14 Engine before.jpg

15 Engine after.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah - and they had to put in quite an effort to do it.

Should have seen the bypass for the dead trans cooler.

And the plastic Christmas tree of pipe fittings that connected all four cockpit drains and the sink drain to one through hull.

That's why they're called project boats.

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 11/30/2020 at 7:39 PM, gewoon ik said:

Scania color

 

On 11/30/2020 at 8:44 PM, Ajax said:

LOL... there's no room to paint the engine. I can freshen up the bell housing. The engine itself is fairly clean (except for black dust from the insulation) and the paint is in fairly good shape.

Don't worry, when the engine dies, the transmission will match the new engine.

Scania, nice.

Seems overkill for a sailboat but hey

Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh, so much FUN!

I ran RidLyme through the HX for a few hours. I peeked inside, squeaky clean!

Then, I screwed the new pencil zinc in and the bung cracked. Now the HX is useless. No, I'm not getting it welded or brazed. I'm not fucking around here.

Mr. Cool to the rescue with an identical HX to the tune of $356. Just great.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds kinda like the time I was up at a friend's place at Huntington Lake about 30 years ago. I'd just replaced the turbocharger in a used Saab I'd bought and this was the first long shakedown after the repair. Those old Saabs didn't have any liquid cooling for the turbo, so they tended to generate bits of coke if run hard and put away wet and this car had most definitely been abused before I got it.

It got really cold at night in those mountains and a piece of coke dislodged from somewhere in the oil system and lodged itself in the oil pump's pressure relief valve. It'd probably been there for a long time or at least since I'd replaced the turbo weeks earlier but the oil never got cold/thick enough to cause the valve to open until that trip. Once it opened, it jammed open so just as we were about to head back down the mountain following a great weekend I found that I had no oil pressure. After some frantic troubleshooting, I figured out what the problem was and managed to clear the valve by pulling the remote oil filter fitting off the engine. I didn't even have to drop the pan! I was so proud of my troubleshooting and shade tree mechanic skills that I held that piece of coke up to the sun like Simba the Lion King, beamed at my then-girlfriend, and told her we were home free. Hell, if we got lucky with traffic we might not even be late! All I had to do was put everything back together...

Well, in my rush to get back on the road I managed to over-tighten one of the oil lines leading to the filter fitting and put a nice radial crack in the cast aluminum fitting. After much scrambling, borrowing of cars, driving down the mountain 20 miles to the nearest hardware store, etc. I was able to score some JB Weld and a 100W work lamp. I spread the crack open using the same flare fitting that broke it in the first place, jammed it full of JB, and set the lamp on it to cure overnight. 

The next day I spent the longest 5 hours of my life to that point driving home with my eyes glued to the oil pressure gauge, worried that the JB Weld would let go, drain all my oil on the freeway and leave us stranded by the side of the road. Anyway, we made it.

The next day I got a replacement fitting and saw that they'd redesigned it with 3X more meat around the female threads. Go figure. Later that year, my girlfriend married me despite my hubris and she hasn't mentioned it since.

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm pretty sure the pencil zinc has been wasted for years before I bought the boat, hence the weak bung.

I did think about JB Welding it or some similar solution but I just don't want the constant doubt and worry every time I take the boat out. I realized last night that I finally make enough money that I was able to buy a new transmission without blinking and I can also afford a new heat exchanger.

On top of the cracked bung, the HX has always had a rather deep dent in the casing that I didn't like the look of. I'm reasonably certain that a couple of tubes are kinked or crushed under this dent. The engine has always run within normal temps so I didn't sweat it but it's just one more reason to replace the HX.

I'm just mad because I have to wait for this shit to come in the mail. Thanks to covid, inventory and shipping are all askew and I don't know how long it'll take to arrive.

Link to post
Share on other sites
19 hours ago, Blitz said:

I have the same hx on my M25.  Had the small bundle hx before and always ran warm. MrCool is the larger bundle hx, temp guage is rock solid now where it should be.

Mr. Cool is who I purchased from. I appreciate the information.

I never had overheating problems. Sure, it ran a little warmer when run hard or run for a long time during the peak of summer when the water is 91F degrees, but still well within norms. Now it'll be even better, I reckon.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Fookin' vendors.

HX will arrive today, 2 days early. Prompt, automatic email with tracking number. Fellow on the phone was polite and answered all of my questions.

Damper plate is MIA, vendor is radio silent and has my money in his pocket. No email, no tracking. I realize it's a pandemic. A simple "it's on backorder" or "I'm having personal difficulties, please stand by"  would go a long way with me.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The new HX is BEEFY. It's also painted with primer so the owner can paint it to match their engine. Universal Gold to the rescue!

I finally got through to Sound Marine and got a tracking number from them. He sent it USPS this time. It should arrive tomorrow and if it doesn't, at least I can track it down now.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, mine doesn't have the glitter.

I now have all of my necessary parts. All that's missing is the motivation to climb into the cold, dark engine space and put it all together.

Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Ajax said:

Well, mine doesn't have the glitter.

I now have all of my necessary parts. All that's missing is the motivation to climb into the cold, dark engine space and put it all together.

Drag a couple of 500W quartz work lights down there with you. Fixes cold and dark at the same time.

May as well take a first aid kit too.

Link to post
Share on other sites

OK,  damper plate installed.  Bell housing mounted to transmission. Transmission test fit to engine. 

I need to run a tap into a couple of mounting holes to clean up the threads. 

The flange alignment is very very close.  Only a minor adjustment will be needed. 

The final coat is applied to the HX and it's mount and is drying. 

 

received_873839320028688.jpeg

  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

A few installation notes:

Aluminum is soft and I am fearful of it. The holes tapped in the transmission case were not clean and I ran a tap to ensure that I didn't cross thread or rip out any threads.

On the damper plate and the transmission/bell housing bolts, I used just a dab of red Locktite. I used the red stuff because of the heat and major vibrations but I didn't go nuts with it. A brief hit with a heat gun or torch should soften up the Locktite if (God forbid) I ever need to take this apart again.

The Sigma Drive came with small...leveling blocks for lack of a better word. You slip these in to ensure that the CV joint is perfectly straight. Then you perform your standard engine alignment and connect the Sigma Drive coupler to the transmission. Although the Sigma Drive can accommodate up to a 3 degree misalignment in any direction, it obviously works better and puts less wear on the Sigma Drive if you get everything lined up as close as you can.

Right now, the transmission is just hung in place on the guide pins without any bolts. I'm going to back it out and paint the input shaft with a bit of waterproof grease (as per the instructions).  Then I'll perform the final bolt-up with small dabs of red Locktite and fill the transmission with Dex-III fluid. Next, I'll perform the final alignment and mate up the shaft and connect the shift cable and make the necessary adjustments per the manual (60-70mm total travel). Finally, I'll mount the new HX and reconnect the hoses.

Then it's test time.

Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, SloopJonB said:

Are you in the water or did you haul?

In the water.  

Alignment complete,  all mechanical connections made.  Now on to the HX. Wrestling with stiff,  tight hoses.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, just to wrap this up-

All hoses connected this morning. Ran the engine and chased a pesky air bubble trapped in the water heater. Finally burped it out and whoosh...nice and cool with the new HX.

I ensured that the throw of the shift lever is within 60-70mm as per the manual. Tested the transmission against the docklines, adjusted the gland seal, checked for lose hardware, unwanted vibrations, etc.

Next, we set off for a test run. Holy shit, super smooth and QUIET. I had no idea how much noise and vibration the old transmission was causing. I thought it was all caused by the diesel. 

I am still in the process of cleaning up the engine compartment after this orgy of grease, coolant, water and other fluids.

Photos- the guy shipped the wrong shift cable bracket. It works, but I'm going to call him and get the right bracket. The hose routing is a nightmare, trying to keep them away from moving parts, hot parts and sharp parts.

The little blue wedges are used to align the Sigma Drive to the output flange. As you can see, I was off about 1/2 stud thickness. Then I cranked up the mounts and it slipped right in.

20201213_131449.jpg

20201212_104426.jpg

20201213_131432.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Great thread @Ajax. So very nice to read about your project rather than do it myself. Well done. That broken damper plate would have really made a racket. It may slowly return if you do a great amount of slow motoring.

Critique: Did those flange studs fully engage the (hopefully new) locking nuts?

Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, El Borracho said:

Great thread @Ajax. So very nice to read about your project rather than do it myself. Well done. That broken damper plate would have really made a racket. It may slowly return if you do a great amount of slow motoring.

Critique: Did those flange studs fully engage the (hopefully new) locking nuts?

Yes, they barely engaged. I had to zip the ends off the studs off when I bought the Sigma Drive. They were too long and hit the transmission case and would also have hit the case of the new transmission. This made for a minimum contact situation with the locking nuts. I'm monitoring them carefully.

I try not to do a great deal of any kind of motoring. ;)

Link to post
Share on other sites
11 minutes ago, Elegua said:

That Sigma drive looks to have saved a lot of headache. 

Originally all I cared about was the ability to more easily pop the shaft out vs. the old one-piece coupling that required pressing the shaft out. It's been a blessing in areas of smoothing out vibration and ease of alignment as well.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...