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The watch of a yachtsman? Which one...


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I'm not a watch guy, but I wouldn't be opposed to getting a fancy analogue watch to showcase my sailing prowess during those post-covid post-race parties. I don't need anything functional, my tablet/MFD already does an excellent job at actually helping me sail.

The only thing that I can think of is a Rolex Yacht Master, because I've seen it before in magazines... Or a TAG HEUER Aquaracer beacuse I mean common just look at that name.

Any suggestions? Something that is... a classic? Something new and fancy?

PS $10k+ is too much...

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3 hours ago, Floating Duck said:

I'm not a watch guy, but I wouldn't be opposed to getting a fancy analogue watch to showcase my sailing prowess during those post-covid post-race parties. I don't need anything functional, my tablet/MFD already does an excellent job at actually helping me sail.

The only thing that I can think of is a Rolex Yacht Master, because I've seen it before in magazines... Or a TAG HEUER Aquaracer beacuse I mean common just look at that name.

Any suggestions? Something that is... a classic? Something new and fancy?

PS $10k+ is too much...

I use a tattoo watch 

ultra light , low windage , waterproof ... fast on the race course 

atomic accuracy twice a day 

lifetime warranty 

87ED599F-4A53-434E-AD56-8DC288462905.jpeg

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7 hours ago, Floating Duck said:

I'm not a watch guy, but I wouldn't be opposed to getting a fancy analogue watch to showcase my sailing prowess during those post-covid post-race parties. I don't need anything functional, my tablet/MFD already does an excellent job at actually helping me sail.

The only thing that I can think of is a Rolex Yacht Master, because I've seen it before in magazines... Or a TAG HEUER Aquaracer beacuse I mean common just look at that name.

Any suggestions? Something that is... a classic? Something new and fancy?

PS $10k+ is too much...

Has to be a:

Corum Admirals Cup Challenge. You should be able to land the real thing for double your budget.

or

Corum Admirals Cup Legend 42, which looks to be available for anything from 3 to 9 grand

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The Rolex Yacht-master and Omega Seamaster are the classic answer.  But they are so heavily advertised, and technically uninteresting, that to a haute horlogerie watch snob, they are like Budweiser and Coors are to beer snob.

One of the vintage watches cataloged at http://www.regatta-yachttimers.com/ would have more cachet.

That Leonidas is actually really cool.  The pre-Heuer branding likely means it's early 60s at the latest.  I can't find any examples of a countdown timer like that.  It looks like they've taken the basic idea of the "five-dot" countdown mechanism, but instead of being entirely behind the dial, they moved the indicating part to the front, as a hand which has been split in two so it can pass through the center sweep seconds.  Must not have caught on.

Found one: Apollo_Yachting_Timer3-233x300.jpg

 

I wonder what movement is in that Leonidas.

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Wearing a 10K watch on a sailing boat or at the club is the sign of a poser / owner , sat on the boat doing nothing, not a yachtsman. It's too easy to get the watch ripped off by a rope and it goes for a swim.. (or ripped off by a mugger on shore..)

I wear the Casio equivalent of the Timex, one linked to the radio signal, the clubs use a radio linked clock for the count downs. So it's always correct, no need to mess around with start stop buttons, you just go by the appointed time.

There are half a dozen watches of mine keeping the fish awake down there..

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I own an Omega Seamaster planet ocean, its a nice watch imo, and a Raymond Weil americas cup watch, and a bunch of others, I like watches. I wear one if I'm driving and not pulling ropes, banging up a 10k watch on aluminum parts is just wreckless. 

I wear a Ronstan clear start if I'm responsible for timing anything. $100 and its works just fine, has an easy sync function.

OP , I'm not sure you could score a Yachtmaster for 10K ,  its more than that for a used one. a really used one.

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Both the watches you mention are actually very well suited for not only for the party, but for actual days-on-the-boat sailing. Rugged, highly water resistant, comfortable, etc etc. I would not be surprised to hear that many watch-geek sailors here own both. I do, and I have to say the the 2014-era 500M Aquaracer is a personal fav of mine. And priced so if lost or damaged it does totally ruin your week. Despite being made by TAG, it is a paragon of understated function. A nice piece.

 

 

 

TAG-Heuer-WAK2110-portrait.jpg

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17 hours ago, See Level said:

I'll sell you mine for a LOT less than 10k and it is definitely classic

IMG_20200818_165011212.jpg

He'd need to get a better looking lanyard, but does it still work?  I have a Heuer in my dresser drawer, but it stopped maybe sometime in 1982. 

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The Yacht Master is ridiculously heavy and not easy to operate.  My wristband is hard to get opened to take it off.  I have to use the screwdriver from my Swiss Army knife to lever it open.  The Timex Ironman is simple, light, cheap, and works. 

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2 hours ago, PaulK said:

He'd need to get a better looking lanyard, but does it still work?  I have a Heuer in my dresser drawer, but it stopped maybe sometime in 1982. 

What..? Thats the original 1967 lanyard from my El Toro days on Green lake. And it still works.

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14 hours ago, The Q said:

Wearing a 10K watch on a sailing boat or at the club is the sign of a poser / owner , sat on the boat doing nothing, not a yachtsman. It's too easy to get the watch ripped off by a rope and it goes for a swim.. (or ripped off by a mugger on shore..)

This is about watch for real yachtsmen.  A mere $10k watch is only good for one sail anyway.  It needs to match your yacht shoes, ascot, and sunglasses.  And you're certainly not going to wear those a second time!

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I have a quartz TAG: A Formula One I got a few decades ago.

 It's tough, reliable  waterproof, accurate. KISS principle applies.

 It's classier than a digital but snobs know it was cheap, so no good for poseurs... which is a plus in my book.

 If you can find it, get a plain one, not one of the garish bright plastic cases they did.

Probably the second best buy I ever made, after the £5 Kenwood Chef... :-).

Cheers, 

              W.

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On 8/19/2020 at 3:41 PM, Miffy said:

Casio F-91W

I'm getting one, but wonder if the alarm is enough to wake a cruiser from a deep exhaustion sleep?

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On 8/19/2020 at 11:09 AM, JL92S said:

150E1A27-ECAE-4442-9363-A0724CE02506.jpeg.24f858918666c69a6676e9be66c0b750.jpeg

Absolutely. Divides the sailors from the posers. 

For showing off at the bar, there are so many in every price range. The guys I know tend to wear mechanical movements from the usual suspects: Rolex, Omega, Breitling, TAG Heuer, then some Ulysse Nardin, Zenith, Glashütte, ... I have a Sinn 142 with a Lemania 5100 and a nice Zeno with a Valioux 7750 but the one I really wear when travelling or messing around in boats is my trusty old Citizen Promaster Automatic with that nukeproof Miyota movement. Stands all kinds of abuse and if it someday gets crushed or stolen or falls overboard, it wasnt too expensive.

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On 8/19/2020 at 7:09 PM, JL92S said:

150E1A27-ECAE-4442-9363-A0724CE02506.jpeg.24f858918666c69a6676e9be66c0b750.jpeg

Used to have one, problem is it doesn't have secs when showing normal time. We often do pursuit starts so have to start at a specified time. Got a Timex Ironman instead, works fine.

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5 hours ago, Fleetwood said:

Used to have one, problem is it doesn't have secs when showing normal time. We often do pursuit starts so have to start at a specified time. Got a Timex Ironman instead, works fine.

The Ronstan Clearstart line show time with seconds while the start timer is up. A great racing watch, and The fact that it looks OK is a bonus. 
 

 

F5E00B10-855F-4171-B7DC-92C6D634F9C2.jpeg

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18 hours ago, Jackdaw said:

The Ronstan Clearstart line show time with seconds while the start timer is up. A great racing watch, and The fact that it looks OK is a bonus. 
 

 

F5E00B10-855F-4171-B7DC-92C6D634F9C2.jpeg

Mine must have been an earlier model Ronstan, good they've changed it.

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7 hours ago, Fleetwood said:

Mine must have been an earlier model Ronstan, good they've changed it.

Indeed. The original Ronstan (the huge blue one) was just a re-market of the Optimum Time device. The ClearStart range is their own and they have two lines of readout. You can get a huge one that replaces the the old Blue model, but the one I show above has the same info (with slightly smaller digits) in a much more manageable size.

 

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On 8/21/2020 at 3:50 AM, WGWarburton said:

I have a quartz TAG: A Formula One I got a few decades ago.

 It's tough, reliable  waterproof, accurate. KISS principle applies.

 It's classier than a digital but snobs know it was cheap, so no good for poseurs... which is a plus in my book.

 If you can find it, get a plain one, not one of the garish bright plastic cases they did.

Probably the second best buy I ever made, after the £5 Kenwood Chef... :-).

Cheers, 

              W.

Had one in HS, another in college..  Graduated up a bit nowdays, , but Tag has always been a friend...  Frigging awesome for every day...  YMMV

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16 hours ago, Jackdaw said:

Indeed. The original Ronstan (the huge blue one) was just a re-market of the Optimum Time device. The ClearStart range is their own and they have two lines of readout. You can get a huge one that replaces the the old Blue model, but the one I show above has the same info (with slightly smaller digits) in a much more manageable size.

 

I'll have a look at when (if) my Ironman dies.....

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Find an old Memosail - complete with mechanical count-down.  Pretty useless as you need to constantly wind it - but looks like a "yachtsman" would wear it. 

I find a Seiko "Tuna" keeps time as well as my "chronometers" as had great lume at night.  Timex for racing. 

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16 hours ago, Fleetwood said:

I'll have a look at when (if) my Ironman dies.....

They never die. Broke a band once and ordered a $5 replacement from timex. They had me read some info on the back of the watch which I had to magnify with my phone, but the new band was an exact match with the old. Installing was difficult, but it worked, but for $5 more you can send the watch to them, and they will do all the work. Didn't want to wait. Had a race coming up. Great watches.

Sand, salt, whatever, eventually make the buttons difficult to use after 10, 15 years or so, so time to invest another $35 into a new, improved model. Cool part, they always work the same, so no learning curve. Important when you missed the warning signal. 

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6 hours ago, Varan said:

They never die. Broke a band once and ordered a $5 replacement from timex. They had me read some info on the back of the watch which I had to magnify with my phone, but the new band was an exact match with the old. Installing was difficult, but it worked, but for $5 more you can send the watch to them, and they will do all the work. Didn't want to wait. Had a race coming up. Great watches.

Sand, salt, whatever, eventually make the buttons difficult to use after 10, 15 years or so, so time to invest another $35 into a new, improved model. Cool part, they always work the same, so no learning curve. Important when you missed the warning signal. 

That was the death of my Ronstan - broken band. Since it was moulded construction I didn't think of trying to get a new band. Next time.....

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I have the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Calibre S Regatta.  It is beautiful, and the five minute countdown start timer is really cool.  However like a lot of perpetual mechanical watches, including the Rolex, you can actually knock the time off a little bit if you smack your hand hard against something.  This rarely happens on a race boat... ...not!  So, I now do exactly what the OP is proposing.  I use the start timer app on my phone and don't put the watch on until I'm headed to the party.  I suggest a watch with a good quartz action if you actually want to use it racing.

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On 9/2/2020 at 2:56 AM, Varan said:

They never die.

But they get sick... The Timex Ironman that I have on my wrist right now skips the chrono mode when you push the mode button. I have no idea why this happens. Not too bad though because I only use the timer for starts.

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I wear a Garmin Descent.  It does have some OK nav stuff; but a whole lot more.  Measures you heart rate, how you sleep, tons of other stuff when you are connected to the phone.  But it is also a first tier dive watch so you can plan both SCUBA and CCR dives.  Runs from a grand to a grand and a half depending.
 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

I used to rock an atomic synched solar titanium Casio Oceanus 

https://www.japan-onlinestore.com/OCW-T200S-1AJF?language=en&currency=USD&gclid=CjwKCAjww5r8BRB6EiwArcckC9p8c11mTP1jjUV0gmaTD7YrpdmpzkhR6wG6L02htZhrQNftIOTZtRoCLZkQAvD_BwE

Now I have an Apple Watch. If I was retired I’d go back to the Casio.  

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On 9/14/2020 at 4:02 PM, Tomfl said:

I wear a Garmin Descent.  It does have some OK nav stuff; but a whole lot more.  Measures you heart rate, how you sleep, tons of other stuff when you are connected to the phone.  But it is also a first tier dive watch so you can plan both SCUBA and CCR dives.  Runs from a grand to a grand and a half depending.
 

 

Garmin smartwatches are great. I have the Fenix 6 Pro. I also had a 5x before (and Motorola, Huawei & Tag Heuer Android watches... addict). I see nothing replacing my current Garmin. Not touchscreen, and has a learning curve and it’s big-ish, but 14 day battery life which is critical on a boat and is spectacularly visible in the sun without backlighting. Excellent GPS and most of the boating apps are pretty good, again with a bit of learning curve. I was going to buy their Quatix boating specific version but the Fenix does all the same stuff, just not preloaded with the boat apps, comes in black, and cost less.As you can see from this picture the altimeter feature is shit and I haven’t gotten off my ass today since I put it on.

B868A063-4A21-4CA8-8B0C-1C815D915AF6.jpeg

FDC457A0-2F73-4D88-B5F6-F35375255B8B.jpeg

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The altimeter seems to be one thing that is goofy about the Garmin watches. I had read that before I bought my Fenix 5 and I just try to remember to calibrate it with GPS before I do anything where it might be useful. 

I don't know if other brands loose calibration so easily, but it's not that big of a deal. Love the watch though. It does a lot of things well. 

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 10/15/2020 at 6:52 AM, loneshark64 said:

Garmin smartwatches are great. I have the Fenix 6 Pro. I also had a 5x before (and Motorola, Huawei & Tag Heuer Android watches... addict). I see nothing replacing my current Garmin. Not touchscreen, and has a learning curve and it’s big-ish, but 14 day battery life which is critical on a boat and is spectacularly visible in the sun without backlighting. Excellent GPS and most of the boating apps are pretty good, again with a bit of learning curve. I was going to buy their Quatix boating specific version but the Fenix does all the same stuff, just not preloaded with the boat apps, comes in black, and cost less.

Non-touchscreen is better for sailing - Garmin touchscreens get really wonky if the screen and/or your finger is wet.

If you race, get a Garmin watch and the RaceQs smart watch app. In addition to a start timer (with a GPS-pinged start line) and basic speed/direction info, you can upload your marks and course charts into it. One of my favorite features is a prediction of TWD on upcoming legs of the course. You have to do a little mental math to translate that into AWA but it's super useful especially on random leg courses.

It will also now automatically upload your track and marks to RaceQs, saving several steps in being able to play back your race.

RQW2.png.ea467eb979d1e91be43dbbf466622c73.pngRQW1.PNG.27b677b9d3b14e79d4dd7342c6d6d7cf.PNG561985727_pastedimage0.png.626a1c753d55d6bbd230991f356db6fb.png

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Anyone with more dollars than sense can run out and buy a Rolex for those parties. A friend of mine bought one because his wife liked the colors, and then he phoned me up to ask "is this thing useful" and "what does it do?" He does not wear it, decided he does not like it, so I offered to take good care of it for him, but it's not with my collection, yet. Anyhow, a more interesting piece would be the Lemania or some such. I found an older Seiko yacht timer and it didn't even cost me what a main and a jib would. Yeah it's quartz but its still cool. Not very common but you can find one, and Seiko will still service it. I use my Garmin Fenix 6 on board, but you asked about a watch for the post race parties... 

http://www.regatta-yachttimers.com/brands/seiko/

http://www.regatta-yachttimers.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Seiko_Manual6M37_Eng.pdf

 

 

IMG_1773.jpg

IMG_1774.jpg

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 8/19/2020 at 3:27 AM, The Q said:

Wearing a 10K watch on a sailing boat or at the club is the sign of a poser / owner , sat on the boat doing nothing, not a yachtsman. It's too easy to get the watch ripped off by a rope and it goes for a swim.. (or ripped off by a mugger on shore..)

I wear the Casio equivalent of the Timex, one linked to the radio signal, the clubs use a radio linked clock for the count downs. So it's always correct, no need to mess around with start stop buttons, you just go by the appointed time.

There are half a dozen watches of mine keeping the fish awake down there..

Watches are indeed expensive fish fertilizer.  A very kind uncle bought this nascent Jacques Cousteau a Rolex Submariner when I graduated high school.  A few years later, on an oceanographic training cruise, we were letting out trawls.  I of course was wearing the Rolex.  It's made for tough marine use, right?

with the trawl just finished the deployment, a net mesh snagged the bracelet catch and, somehow without snagging or catching anything, the watch flew of my arm and overboard.   I REALLY thought about diving over and trying to grab it (in the opaque, winter water), but the net pulling behind us at 6 knots sunk into even my juvenile brain.  

The next year they added the backup catch to the Rolex bracelets.  I've apologized to my uncle a hundred times in the ensuing 45 or so years.  Guess I was too caught up in the image of the watch as a rugged go anywhere tool.

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I recently snagged this one off eBay. It's a Citizen C050, I think from the late 80s/early 90s. I like analog watches, this is my first "ani-digi."

It has a start timer with chimes at appropriate intervals, with options for rolling starts or countdown/countup. The only thing it's missing is a sync feature. The bezel is kind of interesting - I guess it's for keeping track of shifts but I don't know how useful it is.

I have a bad habit of leaving my Clearstart (the gigantic model, not the wrist-sized one) at home on race nights, so this is a neat watch with some history that I can wear to work and to the Tuesday night race after. We'll see how it goes.

unnamed (1).jpg

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10 hours ago, Sisu3360 said:

I recently snagged this one off eBay. It's a Citizen C050, I think from the late 80s/early 90s. I like analog watches, this is my first "ani-digi."

It has a start timer with chimes at appropriate intervals, with options for rolling starts or countdown/countup. The only thing it's missing is a sync feature. The bezel is kind of interesting - I guess it's for keeping track of shifts but I don't know how useful it is.

I have a bad habit of leaving my Clearstart (the gigantic model, not the wrist-sized one) at home on race nights, so this is a neat watch with some history that I can wear to work and to the Tuesday night race after. We'll see how it goes.

unnamed (1).jpg

I am wearing the same watch and strap at the moment. There are a couple of manuals online that can be found with a quick google search that seem to explain the bezel function, I look forward to using mine on the racecourse next summer. 

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On 12/9/2020 at 9:14 PM, fj95 said:

I am wearing the same watch and strap at the moment. There are a couple of manuals online that can be found with a quick google search that seem to explain the bezel function, I look forward to using mine on the racecourse next summer. 

I used to race J/24's with one of these back in the 90's. IIRC, you set the bezel at 3 and 9 o'clock to be the headings for the start line. Then 12 o'clock is the wind direction for a true line (in the picture above this would be 0 degrees). Anything other than 12 o'clock represents the favored end of the line. 

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