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Hi All,

Has anyone removed their kelp cutter on their boat.

  1. Do you have any leaks from the kelp cutter cap on the keel top plate?
  2. I have been told that some plugs have "squirting" leaks from the cap area. Anyone had this on theirs?
  3. What are the various functions of the bolts on top of the keel plate?
  4. Are all of them functional?
  5. Are some of them guiding shafts?
  6. I realize some bolts fasten to the keel blade. What are the others.
  7. Some of the bolts appear to be stripped. Is there a remedy you have applied?
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These are super important questions - get someone who knows the boat to show you what bolts mean what.  Roughly from memory you've got 3 sets of bolts:

1. 4 at the corners that bolt the keel plate to the boat.  This is important.

2. 4 smaller bolts that don't normally go flush on the top of the keel plate - these push rods down into the keel wedges that stabilize the lower part of the keel from side to side.  If you just keep screwing these down you bend the rods and have to start over.  A wobbly keel is not a good thing.

3. x bolts that hold the top keel plate to the top of the keel, these are important and should be torqued tight.  In 9 years mine never moved or needed re-torquing.

We didn't have a kelp cutter so I can't help you with how to plug that hole.

 

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I do not have a kelp cutter either. I currently have a real cork in mine! Looks like a wine cork. It leaks. How is yours sealed? I can make something out of G10/glass/etc. , but what did you use?

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On 9/28/2020 at 7:04 PM, zks7 said:

I do not have a kelp cutter either. I currently have a real cork in mine! Looks like a wine cork. It leaks. How is yours sealed? I can make something out of G10/glass/etc. , but what did you use?

Hmm, that's weird.  We had no kelp cutter slot cut in the front of the keel, and the top hole in the keel plate for the kelp cutter was always open (for 8 seasons nothing came up).   Our keel was dry, so nothing/no water came up.  

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Where do you sail and in what kind of conditions? This is in SF Bay. Not sure if that makes a difference or not. We get some significant short steep chop. Maybe that makes a difference?

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We never had any water coming up thru the kelp cutter hole - I think you need to track that down - something isn't right. 

On #71 the keel didn't move in the keel box, but the keel box does wiggle a bit from side to side in a big chop - it's a e-glass boat so totally normal (and a bit uncomfortable to see!).

This was 9 seasons on Long Island Sound - we took it from 2 knots of breeze to 35 knots on flat water, chop, large rollers and everything in between.  We loved the boat.

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Thanks, CT.

The keel does not move. ONLY THE KEEL BOX MOVES.

Next week the plan is to raise the keel to see what the struts are doing. Some have said that those bolts may have had enough electrolysis to be compromised.

Still working on the water through the water through the kelp cutter.

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There is no kelp cutter in your boat. The kelp cutter slot has been professionally filled. That water enters (typically above 10 knots of boat speed) from the small space between the keel and the hole in the hull. The next time you haul the boat, seal that space with a bit of silicon. The cork is from a bottle of prosecco (it has been there at least 8 years...), and keeps the splashes down once the silicon is gone. 

You have a 2000 pounds bulb 7 feet under water. In short chop the top of the keel trunk (that is about 10 feet from the bulb) budges a bit left to right. Consider that, depending on how much you heel, the torque on that point probably gets up to 6,000 pounds*feet

 

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Cazza,

To make the keel Delrins tighter do you tighten the nuts clockwise - until you cannot tighten them any further? The pictures above do not show many threads. Does that mean there is no further take up?

 

Can servicing the keel box, delrins and, rods be completed in the water? Or is it a requirement to pull it out of the water, in. marina?

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They don't need to be tight, they are just pushing the  delrins down to reduce lateral movement. You are correct, the thread is only 1-2 inches long. 

 

We drysailed the boat for a few years, so you can raise the keel in the water. We never used the tripod to raise the keel though, always a hoist. 

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It's easy enough to raise the keel to service the keel wedges while the boat is floating, just be sure you do it in flat water.  You don't want the keel banging around in wind/waves.  We used the factory supplied tri-pod a few times.  Easy.

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Thanks for the advice. Is the aim to make the rods tight? That means tighten up the nuts so the fewest/no threads are showing? It would be a clockwise turn of the nuts until we run out of threads. There seemed to be little to no resistance to tightening when I did it yesterday.

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I acknowledge that the object is to push the wedges down. To do that, do you tighten or loosen the nuts? They were tightened to the maximum this weekend. It did not seem to make a marked difference.

 

Maybe the keel moves, and that is the end of it?

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