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How to re/mark ropes?


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H

is there a way to mark ropes which is durable but can be moved? I mean I usually mark them with a permanent pen, but then you have a new setup, and so add a new mark, and so on...I thought about tapes, but i suppose they will get stuck in the jammers. Anything else?

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've got blue, red, white, and I think yellow whipping twine in my bosun box. But do a stitched whipping, not a plain one if you want it to last.

Under red night headlamps, red looks black and is hard to tell apart from blue. You can do multiple short whippings like 1, 2, 3 to mark different settings on the same rope

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You can get waxed line in all sorts of colors and sizes at west marine and most chandleries like fisheries.  Pay attention to the size smaller is better for marking.  Robeline is a cheaper one.  You can also just wax any poly sewing thread.  Bainbridge sells nice needle sets and palms.

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you can do a loose stitch with knots on the end with whipping twine which you pull inside the line. then cut it. this will create a fluff mark. if you need to reset them, pull the twine out and redo.  

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On 10/6/2020 at 7:57 PM, Slim said:

Stay away from three strand , use braided...it’s more durable , less prone to chafe and easier to work with 

 

to extend your available color combinations use bi color markings

simply thread two different colors , perhaps red/black thru the needle eye then apply a  plain whipping with the  two threads 

Heat finish the dead ends 

7CCEF1FD-952F-4280-8E56-76B2622E437A.jpeg

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Slug, do you have an option for us U.S based sailors? Liros is hard to get here. The Robline Polyester Product works fairly well, but I agree it isn't the most durable choice if running through clutches. Their dyneema whipping twine however is the bees knees, but with less available color selection: https://www.roblineropes.com/en/products/whipping-twine/product/detail/whipping-twine-dyneemar-sk78/

 

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4 hours ago, samc99us said:

Slug, do you have an option for us U.S based sailors? Liros is hard to get here. The Robline Polyester Product works fairly well, but I agree it isn't the most durable choice if running through clutches. Their dyneema whipping twine however is the bees knees, but with less available color selection: https://www.roblineropes.com/en/products/whipping-twine/product/detail/whipping-twine-dyneemar-sk78/

 

I don’t know 

 

A quick google only returned twisted twine in the USA ?

robline and gliestein   products are widely available   in Europe , every rigging shop stocks them 

perhaps gliestein ropes  are represented in the US 

 

 

A6743F4D-39B8-4618-9803-C89BE443BC15.jpeg

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Not sure why using unwaxed line is better regardless of construction.  Plain waxed poly stranded lasts years in the tropics.  I have poly siene twine servings that are still fine after several years in the sun.

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13 hours ago, SASSAFRASS said:

Not sure why using unwaxed line is better regardless of construction.  Plain waxed poly stranded lasts years in the tropics.  I have poly siene twine servings that are still fine after several years in the sun.

I typically use non wax braid

wax whipping is hard to find 

non wax braid is common and easier to heat shrink. 

You perform the whipping in a loose , soft fashion , then heat shrink the whipping with hot water or a hot air gun to tighten it up 

 

Wax has UV benefits , but I never see non wax whipping fail before the rope has reached its working life 

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  • 2 months later...

If you don't want it to snag, whip it while the line is under tension (the line will be skinnier and the whipping will be tight, below the level).

 

Braided is better. Waxed, unwaxed, not enough difference to matter much. But definitely braid. twisted tends to ... twist and tangle.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I gave up on whippings a while ago, possibly because I suck at them? To me it always seemed that it was causing imbalances between the cover and core, that it was a bumpy ride through the sheaves and it was a bit more permanent that I wanted. What I do now is just run two or three lengths of whipping twine straight through the rope and cut/melt the ends about a rope diameter from where they protrude on both sides. The net effect is like spider legs sticking out at your marked point. Probably not visible enough for night work, but for day sailing it's easy, doesn't distort the rope and if you want to move or delete them you just cut off one of the melty ends and yank it out by the other. All ready to put the mark where you REALLY need it.

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On 1/11/2021 at 5:39 PM, overdraft said:

I gave up on whippings a while ago, possibly because I suck at them? To me it always seemed that it was causing imbalances between the cover and core, that it was a bumpy ride through the sheaves and it was a bit more permanent that I wanted. What I do now is just run two or three lengths of whipping twine straight through the rope and cut/melt the ends about a rope diameter from where they protrude on both sides. The net effect is like spider legs sticking out at your marked point. Probably not visible enough for night work, but for day sailing it's easy, doesn't distort the rope and if you want to move or delete them you just cut off one of the melty ends and yank it out by the other. All ready to put the mark where you REALLY need it.

You need to have the rope stretched under load when you apply the whipping for best results. Not always, but it helps. I guess I usually do them underway.

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