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fully open turnbuckles or remove pins on rigging


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I'm guessing you're asking about pulling the rig.  If that's right, loosen the turnbuckles until you have a bit of slack and pull the pins between the turnbuckles and chain plates.  Before you loosen the turnbuckles, it can help to mark the turnbuckle threads with tape so you can get close to the original settings when the rig goes back in.

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Shananigan, I could have been more clear but yes you are right, Going to drop the stick on Friday afternoon and this is the first time I haven't been at a yard where they did it for me. 

 

Thanks, Dan

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Loosen and pull/insert pins will be a little quicker.  No matter what you should pull pins and unthread turnbuckles fully to clean and inspect everything with the rig down.  If rig is in good tune you can use a Loose gauge to get "as found" tension settings.  Or use a micrometer/ruler measurement on the turnbuckles to get you back to a good starting point when you throw the rig back in.

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Thanks Folks, now I just have to insure I don't drop any pins in the water!

Our process has a crane arrive and then a series of boats arrive in sequence. Given the J/88 has swept spreaders, would you Guys remove the D1 and D2 in advance leaving only the V1's in place plus the forestay for the short tip from dock to crane? This to reduce the time getting everything off.  

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Help your future self and commit to a number like 5 off the D's and 10 off the V's when loosening and make it your lifetime process. (even though your D1's will be slack after 2-3) Pin your turnbuckles in their loose state after taking the mast out. Clean the lube off the threads in the fall and reapply right before it goes back in in the spring. Getting a gauge reading now as yoyo mentioned is a good idea to check yourself in the spring. 

D's can definitely come off early if it's a short trip around the yard. If your V's are hard at all then pull on some backstay and they will loosen right up. (Or use your main halyard to the trav. Can't remember how involved disconnecting the backstay is on the 88)

Mark

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Agreed with the sentiment that pulling pins is the best way.  Taping the threads is a good idea to mark your starting point for when it all goes back on.  Two things about that, 1) don't take that as a perfect tune, it's just a starting point.  2) make sure you're tuned to your base tune before you mark with the tape!

 

I'm an advocate of taking down the rig every winter and in the spring inspecting all fittings and rigging.  This is for big boats, small boats, cruisers and racers because it's just best practice boat maintenance. 

 

Most rigs I've seen go down were due to a collision, the next most frequent category is failure of a bad fitting or improper installation.  It goes without saying that most people do their best to avoid collisions, it makes me laugh that there are people who don't take equal diligence in inspecting their rig annually.  Pins, ring dings and/or cotter pins are much less than an insurance deductible.  

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While I was struggling to remove a cotter pin on the starboard side my Buddy had opened all the turnbuckles on the port side so I guess we will do the pins next year! I did tape all the turnbuckles though. 

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Another good method is to use calipers to measure the distance between the ends of the threaded studs. Even if you take the t/b's completely apart the measurement will still be accurate on re-assembly

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  • 4 weeks later...

I remove about 15 rigs a year (rigger) and this would be my method.

- Go up rig and attach slings and remove masthead gear. Have a couple of 3ft pieces of rope with a loop in one end handy at mast base.  Also attach one longer piece to mast base (or use a halyard) for tag line 

- Bring all halyards to the mast

- Mark all t/b settings

- Straighten cotter pin arms before loosening anything

- Loosen D's 2-3 turns and V's 1-2 turns, then motor to the crane. Do not touch forestay at all as it doesn't need to be loosened and at least you know your rake will be exactly the same

- Attach crane to slings.

- Loosen and remove D's, Backstay, V's  in that order, then remove forestay

- Use scrap rope to ties stays to mast and lift!!  If the boat has a furler we tie the stays and furler onto the mast with separate peices of rope as you may need to lift the mast up before you can bring the furler back to the mast.

Also we always try and lift from the front of the mast, especially if you have a fuler as it keeps the foil from dangling away from the mast.

 

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22 minutes ago, mezaire said:

I remove about 15 rigs a year (rigger) and this would be my method.

- Go up rig ... etc.

You forgot a step: Apologize to the boat owner for breaking all the mast wiring. Joking..with the one added step that is a wise procedure you provided.

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28 minutes ago, El Boracho said:

You forgot a step: Apologize to the boat owner for breaking all the mast wiring. Joking..with the one added step that is a wise procedure you provided.

I decided to leave out 2 steps that I thought were pretty obvious :)

- Remove boom

- Disconnect electrics!!!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Most years I don’t quite get to take down and  re-rig 50 masts. 
We squirt lubricant on everything that is supposed to move before we get out any tools. Generally that is done with a little spray can of something made by PB Blaster while  a rag is held behind the fitting to catch the over spray. 
 

I like to screw all the turnbuckles 100% apart and toss the parts in a STURDY plastic bag. We generally throw away all the old cotter pins. 
 

if the boat has a sink, we put the bag in that sink. 
 

 

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Assuming you aren't using a cherry pickers, how do you Guys deal with 2 and 3 spreader rigs? One of the Guys at our club creates a big loop that can be reached from the deck put over the first spreader so the crane can lift it above the balance point. 

Any cool ideas for this? 

Dan 

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On 12/15/2020 at 12:14 AM, danstanford said:

Assuming you aren't using a cherry pickers, how do you Guys deal with 2 and 3 spreader rigs? One of the Guys at our club creates a big loop that can be reached from the deck put over the first spreader so the crane can lift it above the balance point. 

Any cool ideas for this? 

Dan 

Firstly I never lift using the spreaders!!  You'd be amazed how often you get a rig out and the spreader base is loose!!

Do exactly as you said with slings but use a tie down rope from the loop of the slings around the mast, tied down to a strong point near the mast base.

SLing wise I use round 2000kg x 3m slings (continuous loops) hitched together long enough to not only reach the deck but get the crane hook above the masthead.

With deck step masts I tend to lift just above the balance point as it means there is less load on the mast base when you lay it down and if there is a heap of load the furler can be hard to keep off the ground.

If it is keel stepped I lift higher than the balance point as the furler is above the mast base so you can put a pad under the mast base as you lay it down.  It also keeos the mast more vertical (or easier to keep vertical) when you're lowering it back through the deck.

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