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J/111 twin tackline sprit end


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Which do you prefer?  Floppy fairleads or fixed fairleads? Seems obvious to me but what do I know? 

I really like that picture in the lower right, my 3d printer aches to make it, and the drill can stay in the toolbox where it belongs.

In case you were wondering what the rules of the game are, you may only use the drill on pop-rivets.  Drilling out carbon fiber is strictly prohibited.

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Today we run the code from 1 meter out on the sprit, and a typical scenario is going back and forth between code and A3.

With a new Helix Code that is run from the end of the sprit, we want to perform the same sequence: Hoisting an A3 outside and just furling the code - unfurling the code and dropping the kite. Plus that the furling works much better on a 2:1 tackline (see photo above for dead-ended port tackline).

Additional benefits would be the ability to do proper peels (today we use a short peeling strop and move the tackline before tripping the strop) and also as a backup if something breaks. The downside is more complexity and added weight.

j111-blur-code0-2.jpg

 

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Blur,

Do you put the peeling stop at the inboard end of the pole or tacked somewhere else?  I am guessing the operation is something like this for the tackline:

Hoist new kite inside old tacked to a strop at the bow.

blow the tack of the old kite (use a martingale to blow the tack shackle)

retrieve tackline from pole end using martingale line and attach to new kite.  Release the strop from the new kite and grind the tackline down.  
 

thanks,

T

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50 cm peeling strop from the bow or the "code loop" on the sprit (that you can reach).

We just open the tackline jammer & bowman retrieves it directly from the sail and runs forward to connect. Key thing is to get the old kite down cleanly and the new one to fill, so plenty of time for the bow to do his thing.

We've been talking about different ways to trip the tackline, but ended up with a very basic setup. Things tend to get tangled up in 24 knots at 03:00 AM :o

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