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12 hours ago, woodpecker said:

I am painting a brand new engine. Want to paint it white instead of the stock green/gray
Any thought on what paint to use? Any special prep?
 

Use a 2 component system 

primer plus topcoat 

2 component  white does not yellow 

marine diesels run cool , no need for any high heat paint 

with 2 component or any  engine painting do not allow paint on lip seals ..keep the paint off drive shafts 

if the engine is still in the shop spray it 

To Develop the correct paint film thickness , use plenty of paint ..engines are full of sharp edges 

 

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2 hours ago, Dex Sawash said:

I never feel right painting a stationary engine unless I paint the belts, hoses and seals too.

This is the way.

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2 hours ago, Dex Sawash said:

I never feel right painting a stationary engine unless I paint the belts, hoses and seals too.

And don't forget to paint over the serial number / model number plates while you are at it.  Masking tape is for suckers :)

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23 minutes ago, IStream said:

This is the way.

This is the way.

OBTW, Some overspray on the sides of the engine compartment is always appreciated.

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2 hours ago, Dex Sawash said:

I never feel right painting a stationary engine unless I paint the belts, hoses and seals too.

Absolutely. It duplicates the factory finish. You don't want it to look like a repaint, do you?

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1 hour ago, Al Paca said:

Alex Seal makes a 2 part, using distilled water as a thinner.  No primmer required.  

There are several different water based 2 component paints 

I’ve never used them on an engine but I see no reason why they wouldn’t work

its to your advantage to use a  primer because it dries fast 

engines are a pain in the ass to paint , many angles , shadows behind every fastener , dead ends  ...

fast  dry  primer allows many coats to be applied in one day .. you can sneak up on the hard to paint spots and shadows 

once it’s white with a decent film thickness you can make it shiny with a topcoat 

 

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On 2/12/2021 at 12:07 PM, woodpecker said:

I am painting a brand new engine. Want to paint it white instead of the stock green/gray
Any thought on what paint to use? Any special prep?
 

You can change the colour, but it’s still a Volvo...

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8 hours ago, olaf hart said:

You can change the colour, but it’s still a Volvo...

Naw - the color defines the build. My Volvo for example is green. But the block says Perkins, a division of Caterpillar. Except it is really a Shibaura/IHI built under a joint license agreement with Perkins/Cat, marinized (and painted) by Volvo. I can buy parts for it at a New Holland (formerly Ford) tractor dealer. So I say paint it white and call it a Cummins or John Deere. They are usually white. Or red and call it a Westerbeke or Ford-Lehman. Or orange and call it a Beta or a Kubota. 

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When building Aussie rules for Greg Norman, they came in for a progress inspection and the next day we were told the MTU engines which had been installed were the wrong white.  Apparently MTU had dressed up a display engine for boat shows in a more pearlescent white and that’s what they had to have.

needless to say engines had to be stripped and repainted.

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On 2/12/2021 at 11:44 AM, yoyo said:

And don't forget to paint over the serial number / model number plates while you are at it.  Masking tape is for suckers :)

A true craftsman only paints over half the numbers and letters.  This makes it more entertaining for a future owner who is looking into the dimly lit engine compartment trying to figure out if he has, say, a Yanmar 3GM30H (American) or a Yanmar 3GM30H (European).  It provides for hours of endless fun.  #TrueStory

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On 2/13/2021 at 2:57 PM, wristwister said:

White? That's boring! 

No photo description available.

That may be the coolest A4 I've ever seen. Nice job. Way better than the universal copper (and or rust, which many of them seem to be coated with)

 

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I've been rebuilding the top end on my Yanmar, this is from the last weekend of work with my daughter. Damn store couldn't get me proper Yanmar paint in time so I went with an off the shelf high heat rattle can enamel. Primer plus 4-5 coats, all back to back then a week under the heat lamp, because I could. (Dupli-Color, New Ford Grey)

I am not relishing the work ahead cleaning up and prepping the block to paint in the boat, its a slut of a job to do properly, I hope my bilge likes acetone.

701597167_Repaintedhead.thumb.jpg.d5611a84662b2d15d073fbb487703776.jpg

692993381_Repaintedhead-02.jpg.fb6341522078ab0feaba808365a73128.jpg1921182945_Repaintedhead-03.thumb.jpg.73a31a4aae49c4a2adc59f0f548cf09b.jpg492997963_Repaintedhead-04.thumb.jpg.80cecac97099b6d67e9387905b190684.jpg

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High temp gloss rattle can paint.  Black white grey and silver are usually available.  If you want to spend a little more buy CAT rattle can.  The new ones are all white. Just make sure it's really clean and spend a bit of time prepping. Aluminum foil is great for doing a engine.  Tape hard lines foil on hoses and other bits you don't want paint on.

 

Do several light coats for the best finish.

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FWIW, I tried using the a clear high heat rattle can paint on a steel fire pit. It immediately started rusting so I figured I'd screwed it up somehow and re-did it with multiple light coats and all the recommended heat curing steps. Nope. Still rusted. 

I've never had a paint job fail so completely and I wonder if the clear stuff is meant more as an overcoat than a primary coat, though there were no such caveats on the can.

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I should've mentioned that it's a gas pit and never gets very hot. I can put my bare hand on the steel even after it's been running for an hour. I had to heat cure the paint with a heat gun.

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It degraded super fast, too fast for it to be UV damage, so I'm wondering if it was a bad batch of paint. Anyway, so much for my "stainless steel on a carbon steel budget" look. 

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