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Penetrating epoxy or something else?


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Hi all.

I have a boat with teak decks that were laid down (epoxied) over a a fiberglass substrate. Think teak over fiberglass then screwed to a solid fiberglass deck. This was a total re-teak decking project.

After a number of years in the tropics, there is one section, about 1 foot by 6 inches that has lifted from the fiberglass deck. I was thinking of drilling 2-3 screw holes through the deck and injecting some penetrating epoxy and then secure with screws and new bungs.

Any thoughts?

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No, penetrating epoxy is super thin and intended as a sealer or prep coat for filling.  Injecting west 105 then putting an bunch of weight on it would be better.  There may be a better epoxy but west seems to be pretty good all around.  Best case would be to drill some holes tape and bag it and leave vacuum pump on to dry out.  Then inject and use bag for clamping.  Might not be practical though.  If you can't get dry would wait for another opinion, maybe gflex in a tube or just 4200. Due to moisture.

 

 

 

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Really hard to see because the lift is maybe 3/16". It is in the area where the bung is missing. Bagging is out. The boat is in Mazatlan and I'm going down at the end of March. I'm hoping that all will be dry there. Mazatlan gets about 12" of rain per decade.

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Maybe reading it wrong thought it was just the teak that had lifted, but probably more to find under it in any case.  As a over probably not too spendy to have the local Mazatlan wood butcher just pull the teak up and see what's what and out back down.  Can use a multi tool and shorten and stager so you don't need to pull full lenghts.

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It is a teak deck placed on a thin fiberglass aminat and the whole shebang is screwed here an the to the boat. Not a traditional every plank is cut and screwed in place. I just need to get this one section re attached.

 

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Use the missing bung hole to investigate - is the teak detached from the deck or is the deck de-lammed? If just separated from deck, use that hole & create another to flood epoxy into void (in on until it comes out the other) Than weight the deck down flat, & capture the excess resin that will come out both holes,.

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If you have a deck fill somewhere close you might pull it out to verify construction. If the teak was laminated to a frp panel then to the existing deck, which it sounds like you are describing, doing as longy suggested might show what's what.  Pull a screw and bung, carefully drill full bung size with a forstner bit thru wood and sub panel if needed.  Should be able to see what separated.

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is there an epoxy filled space between the teak strips? if there is you can use that space to work around the loosened strips without making new holes then use screws and fender washers in the gap to hold everything down when you epoxy again. The undersides of the lifted strips are probably contaminated but something like G-flex may get is to stick for a while if you decide not to pull the strips up completely.

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On 3/13/2021 at 9:31 PM, Ishmael said:

Shoot it full of black 5200 and put some batteries on it. Try to avoid laminating the batteries to the deck.

given it might be wet, etc in there? Yep.

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On 3/14/2021 at 6:48 AM, SASSAFRASS said:

If you have a deck fill somewhere close you might pull it out to verify construction. If the teak was laminated to a frp panel then to the existing deck, which it sounds like you are describing, doing as longy suggested might show what's what.  Pull a screw and bung, carefully drill full bung size with a forstner bit thru wood and sub panel if needed.  Should be able to see what separated.

I watched it get re-decked a number of years ago. It is as I described.

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Then just west 105 and slow hardener mix small batches two pumps ish inject with a syringe. Probably tape all the teak off in the area, several holes. Inject till it comes out the open holes and put a weight like Ish said a battery would be good. Not a perfect fix but should seal the area and prevent further delamination.  I would stick a shop vac on the holes and verify flow between before starting.

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  • 1 month later...

If you use epoxy, I’d start with pure epoxy to get max penetration in the narrow gaps and follow with increasing the thickness by adding the filler of your choice and injecting it. Maybe figure out a way to lift the deck a little  to suck the goop in. Pumping it up and down a few mm should help a lot. Then add weight and drink beer till cured. 

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2 hours ago, Kenny Dumas said:

If you use epoxy, I’d start with pure epoxy to get max penetration in the narrow gaps and follow with increasing the thickness by adding the filler of your choice and injecting it. Maybe figure out a way to lift the deck a little  to suck the goop in. Pumping it up and down a few mm should help a lot. Then add weight and drink beer till cured. 

Some of us are never going to be cured. But I'll keep trying.

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