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Looking for a Corsair 31UC or.....


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Hey All,

Lurker here.  We're looking for a Corsair 31UC.  If anyone has a line on one that may be for sale, please drop me a line.  Would consider a CC as well (head, tanks).  2000-2010-ish w/ trailer.  Will travel to the ends of the Earth for the right FSBO boat (so long as the ends of the Earth are somewhere in the lower 48).  I've worn out my keyboard looking at YW, most every FB page and most forums.  Zip.  Thanks!!!

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The UC would also be my choice since the interior layout is arguably the best of the 31s.  But it is the heaviest typically of the 31s so generally not a good boat for racing unless you get a favorable rating.  Right now they are scarce since folks with family getaway boats are keeping them and others would like to getaway themselves.  Good luck in your search...you might have to wait a year or more.

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Have you been to the Fboat io site, that is the best chance of finding an unlisted barnfind or maybe-for-sale deal:  https://fct.groups.io/g/main/topics?p=recentpostdate%2Fsticky,,,20,2,20,81769034

Sounds like you are set on the UC but I think it wastes space unless you really spend a lot of time in the bathroom or really need a big shower.    The vee berth of the AC is useful for a cruising couple to store (out of the way) folding bikes, inflatable kayaks & paddleboards, and other manner of cruising toys.  Keeps the clutter down in the living area.  You can shower in the AC but we always just take a swim and rinse off with a quart or two of fresh water.  IIRC the main cabin of the UC is smaller than the cabin of the AC.

Good luck on your search

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36 would be sweet.  Do some research on that model first though.  There are a variety of opinions.  Calling Wess?

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Thanks Eric.  Wife wants a proper head, and I get that.  If a nice CC or AC comes along with one, it is certainly something I would strongly, strongly consider.  My racing days were limited to two wheels (and paying for it now -I catch myself making old man noises), so not looking for an R (and definitely not a 1D).

 

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We're both typing at the same time it seems.  The listed 36 is past the "Troubles", but what a freakin' beast.  Price is great, but logistics put it out of my budget (not to mention it's not really "trailerable", although I could manage (see attached -Although I recently downsized to a 1-ton from that monster 2-ton)).  Had a line on the 32AX, but it was painfully outside of my budget, which is a shame as that was one nice, nice ride.  I'm on the F/C group (got some leads through that, but nothing materialized).  I'm down to approx 75 days before my 1.99% financing opportunity evaporates (free money).  If the right boat isn't in my driveway by then, I will wait, boatless, until next year.  Thanks!!!

21200497_10210063996693392_9054107440927333790_o.jpg

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I'm off to work but many say that if you really like the boat (the 32AX you mentioned) just do what you need to get it.  You can't buy more time on this earth.  It will be amortized over many years and in the end you will be able to sell it for a premium price as well.  Farrier always stressed the total cost of ownership which includes your eventual sales price.  These boats hold there value so well.  I suspect I can sell mine for what I paid!

 

Good luck

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You sound like my wife (I know, I'm lucky).  She wants me to keep our wakeboard boat AND shell out the extra money for the AX.  Anyway, it's just not an option (neither are an option).  I have X dollars to spend (and it's been an astounding exercise in mission creep thus far).  I need to keep my long term financial goals intact, impressive though they are not.  If I go over my limit (my credit union imposed max limit on boats), then other things suffer (like retirement account contributions, mortgage payoff plan, etc).  Hell, I'm even working a side gig several evenings during the week for extra boat bucks.  Thanks again and I do not disagree with you (just doesn't work with my situation).  Please keep those eyes out!!

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1 minute ago, deminimis said:

Thanks.  A new build is way beyond my budget.   What a beaut though.

the exchange rate is pretty favourable right now....

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10 minutes ago, gspot said:

Anybody else find it odd that it's very well priced and only one photo?

Surprised it's not in Kansas with the owners moving to Edmonton! :P

Only one grainy pic?  Definitely.  Too big for me, but it makes me wonder if the hull is laid using the epoxy omnidirectional unicorn fart sandwich method ;-)

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definitely a pet peeve of mine that someone selling a 100k item can't even be assed to post decent photos.

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On 4/6/2021 at 10:13 AM, eric1207 said:

I'm off to work but many say that if you really like the boat (the 32AX you mentioned) just do what you need to get it.  You can't buy more time on this earth.  It will be amortized over many years and in the end you will be able to sell it for a premium price as well.  Farrier always stressed the total cost of ownership which includes your eventual sales price.  These boats hold there value so well.  I suspect I can sell mine for what I paid!

 

Good luck

Eric, I tried to follow your advice, as financially unsound as it may be ;-), in terms of retirement planning.  Made the 2500 mile round trip to buy the 32AX.  Thing is, despite multiple emails, texts, and a few phone calls, he failed to mention the substantial trailering damage to a float, front beam, float/beam/net strut, nor the hole(s) in the main hull below the waterline.  Well, "hole" may not be the right term.  Circular cracks in the outer shell that penetrate to the core is more accurate.  I had some cursory training in crash reconstruction, and read those reports often.  It appears he jackknifed the trailer when backing.  Jackknifed it bad. Hull damage consistent with a tailpipe.  Front to rear and upward forces on the float (damage to bow, compression damage on float (inboard of front beam), cracks in beam to float mounting flang, and so forth. Impressive paint transfer on the float bow (visible on what's left of the bow's original finish/fiberglass).  Unf'nbelievable.  Not like I wasn't going to notice.  On the Boat-O-Meter, the needle lies closer to "Salvaged Wreck" than "Dream Boat".  Inside looked like the basement from The Blair Witch Project.  Boat has been ransacked and has been languishing in the desert sun for approx 2.5 years.  What a waste of time and money.  The fail to disclose BS is what really gets me.  None of the problems couldn't be corrected with time and money, but the fact he tried to get away with it, well, I'll just leave it at that.  If anyone hears of a Fboat for sale in the middle of the desert SW, I would suggest you run away.

So, upward and onward.  The world is upside down as it's easier to sell a boat than buy one.  My wakeboard boat sold immediately and there was, figuratively,  a line around the block (1st guy showed up with a bag of cash from the bank.  We spent more time counting the cash than showing the boat).  So, I'm probably going to be boatless this year.  

Hard to go back to wanting a 31 after nearly buying a f32.  So, think I'll focus on trying to find an early example of a 970 Cruze.  Again, probably not going to happen this year, but one can hope.  If anyone knows of one not on YW, please shout out.  Also, thanks all and I'm only teasing you Eric (I had planned on giving you a hard time after buying the boat too. -Blaming you for the kids' inability to go to college now. Alas, no need for any Ted Knight Caddy Shack memes).

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Holy Smokes! What a jerk.  Bummer about the F32 fiasco.  This forum and others have many comments on seller misrepresentation.  Some say to demand a whats up or live video walk thru of the boat with the seller or broker there to answer questions and point their camera where you ask, before you travel more than 100 miles or so for a viewing.  That sounds like good advice.    You might assure them you only want 5 or 10 minutes of their time for a walk around and poke into the cabin.  That seems reasonable especially if you are ponying up for a 2500 mile trip.  I'm sure some of them will balk, so you move on.  Unfortunately it is a sellers market so uncooperative sellers can tell you to take a hike.  MEH, move on or get someone local to look at the boat.  Some on here, the Fboat io forum, and CF have offered to do that.  If you have a good history on the forum, it would make others even more amenable.  Who doesn't like to look at boats.   I will say, regarding the above, that there seem to be several long time Corsair dealers with good reps so I'd trust their descriptions.  Though there will always be some unapparent used boat issues (minor, one hopes). 

Your comment seemed to indicate a preference for the F32 vs F31.   I don't know much about the relative differences.  A light, well built and finished F32 might be more attractive to me than a factory F31.   The F31 does basically the same thing but has a little less room than the 32AX.  However the F31 has the "advantage" of a factory build.   So its a fairly known quantity factory build vs a (usually) home build, one off.  This can be a consideration when it comes time to sell.

Keep looking, there are plenty out there and owners are always aging out, including me, hopefully in more than in a few years.

Be sure and join the FCT io forum if you haven't already.  We all hang out there.  Tons of advice and knowledge.  Happy hunting.

 

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On 4/6/2021 at 12:05 PM, eric1207 said:

36 would be sweet.  Do some research on that model first though.  There are a variety of opinions.  Calling Wess?

Just saw this.  And yes we do love our C36.  We owned various multihulls including large cruising cats and an F27 (for almost 20 years) prior to getting the 36.  The 36 is by far our favorite boat.  Give me a shout of you have questions @deminimis

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8 hours ago, Wess said:

Just saw this.  And yes we do love our C36.  We owned various multihulls including large cruising cats and an F27 (for almost 20 years) prior to getting the 36.  The 36 is by far our favorite boat.  Give me a shout of you have questions @deminimis

Hi Wess.

I have great respect for the way you treated me when I was asking questions about the C36.  Convinced me to fly from Florida to Germany to look at one to keep in Europe as a second boat only to have COVID-19 mess up my plans.  Not sure when COVID-19 will wind down but I am still planning to follow through on getting a second boat.  While I love my Seawind catamaran for winter cruising I am looking for a boat out of the hurricane zone for summer cruising.  

One of the biggest reasons I like the Seawind is I can single hand it with impunity and I am wondering about your thoughts about how easy/hard it is to single hand the C36.  Also how comfortable the C36 is at anchor.

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10 hours ago, Tomfl said:

Hi Wess.

I have great respect for the way you treated me when I was asking questions about the C36.  Convinced me to fly from Florida to Germany to look at one to keep in Europe as a second boat only to have COVID-19 mess up my plans.  Not sure when COVID-19 will wind down but I am still planning to follow through on getting a second boat.  While I love my Seawind catamaran for winter cruising I am looking for a boat out of the hurricane zone for summer cruising.  

One of the biggest reasons I like the Seawind is I can single hand it with impunity and I am wondering about your thoughts about how easy/hard it is to single hand the C36.  Also how comfortable the C36 is at anchor.

Hi Tom. I don't know the Seawinds well so its hard for me to directly compare.  We did previously own a number of larger cruising cats though so will base my comments on that.  From what I do know of the Seawind I think of it as a boat that has fairly simple systems (ie not gold plated and I mean that in a good way) and is somewhere in the middle of the performance spectrum (could find both faster and slower cats).  So with that...

The C36 is cruised by my wife and I (so two old farts... well I am...) and I have frequently single-handed the boat without any issue.  If you can single hand the Seawind you can single hand the C36. The C36 is a faster and more powered up boat (I suspect) so the biggest thing is just planning and staying ahead of the boat.  Reef early.  She has simple systems and we like that a lot.  However if one wants lots of bells and whistles and gold plating this might not be your boat.  Comfort at anchor is high from our standpoint but not sure what you mean by the question. For us that means a functional galley w stove, fridge and freezer, a head with a shower and hot and cold running water, and a master stateroom, all in an interior platform that does not feel like a cave.  We do not have or want AC.  We do not have or want and inboard diesel.  Also we do have LESS space than any similar sized cruising cat (by definition) but again we see that as a good thing.  There is a second stateroom so we can have guests, but we didn't want a marina queen or floating condo.  We love to sail and we sail a lot.  Typically near 200 days a year.  

I should add that a lot of our sailing is day sailing (I still work for a living) as opposed to weekend or extended cruising though we do our fair share of that too.  But to be fair we have a bias towards a boat that SAILS well and we spent many hours focused on that.  We can be out of our slip and sailing (ie motor off) in less than 60 seconds.  Its kinda a joke and game for us.  Can we park and exit the jeep, board and rig the boat, motor out of the slip/marina, and have the main hoisted and jib set and motor back off all within 5 minutes.  And yes we can and do routinely.  And importantly once we et to this stage she as such a joy to sail that there is no rush to put her under autopilot.

Hope this helps.

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Very informative.  Thank you Wess.

However, I'm going to try and focus on finding the right 31 or a '14-'15 970 Cruze at this point.  Thanks again.

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1 hour ago, deminimis said:

Very informative.  Thank you Wess.

However, I'm going to try and focus on finding the right 31 or a '14-'15 970 Cruze at this point.  Thanks again.

Yea, I get that and both are great boats.  Heck my C36 ain't for sale at any price... I was just answering Tom's question.  These threads do have a tendency to drift.  Its an SA thing.  The one suggestion I would have for you is to work with a dealer/buyers agent be it Bob and Ira at Multihull Source, Steve at Finish Line, or Don at Windcraft.  There are others but they don't rise to the same level IMHO.  Inventory is at a historic low and these folks know the market, the boats, and may be aware of opportunities even before they hot the public market.  If you are looking to do this on the cheap... its a tough time for that and I suspect you will get what you pay for if you catch my drift!  Good luck either way.

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We're looking at 970's as well and I am also tempted by the C36.  Our plan is to keep the boat in a slip 90+% of the time and trailer a few times per year to the great lakes (we're in Minnesota) or possibly to Florida in the winter.  Assuming an appropriate tow vehicle such as a 1-ton pickup, how "trailerable" is the C36?  I've heard it is possible to raise the mast with appropriate hardware.  Obviously over-width permits legally required.

 

Edit - I think I already know the answer... The C36 is not "trailerable" but can be trailered.

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1 hour ago, prskier17 said:

We're looking at 970's as well and I am also tempted by the C36.  Our plan is to keep the boat in a slip 90+% of the time and trailer a few times per year to the great lakes (we're in Minnesota) or possibly to Florida in the winter.  Assuming an appropriate tow vehicle such as a 1-ton pickup, how "trailerable" is the C36?  I've heard it is possible to raise the mast with appropriate hardware.  Obviously over-width permits legally required.

 

Edit - I think I already know the answer... The C36 is not "trailerable" but can be trailered.

We trailered ours from FL to MD. The mast gets put up and down via a standard hoist on a travel-lift. I know folks who have raised the mast themselves but I personally would not. The cost benefit or risk benefit vs the cost of using the travel lift crane after I drop the boat in off the trailer makes it an easy decision. It’s a freaking big mast and money ain’t cheap! And repairs of screwing up take long. 

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Planning on running the race circuit in the Great Lakes, may have room for crew.

Queen's 70391235_3053757767999575_4098491165186195456_n.jpg.9cdd464c2addbb1ae83654534a067227.jpgcup, Chicago Mac, Bay city.

 

Wild Thing, Taking no prisoners 

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On 4/23/2021 at 2:33 PM, Wess said:

We trailered ours from FL to MD. The mast gets put up and down via a standard hoist on a travel-lift. I know folks who have raised the mast themselves but I personally would not. The cost benefit or risk benefit vs the cost of using the travel lift crane after I drop the boat in off the trailer makes it an easy decision. It’s a freaking big mast and money ain’t cheap! And repairs of screwing up take long. 

Maybe the third or forth time I spoke to Steve he invited me to go sail with him on a C31 he was taking out of the water after it returned from the Bahamas.  Thing is he was in Tampa taking the mast of a C36 and putting it on a trailer and a thunderstorm hit and he had to stop doing that so had some free time to talk.  At the time I put a higher priority on getting a boat on and off the trailer than quickly and easily than the advantages a C36 has over small fboats which he said excluded a C36 since it was not an owner only job.  Thing was he also showed me a Seawind and for a long term cruising there is no contest between a Seawind and an fboat.  Which brings up another question.  More than once I have posted docking a Seawind with twin screws well forward seemed like cheating after my previous experience with boats with a single screw.  I tend to only use my engines for docking, backing down on the anchor, and stuff like that.  I would guess this goes for all fboats/Corsairs; how easy is it to motor them in those situations.  And as for anchoring I was more talking about some tris have only one ama in the water at anchor which can be annoying at times.  Another big consideration is setting and using a bridle.  I tend to set mine and sometimes adjust the length of one side of the bridle to point the nose of the boat for the best angle for the wind/wave conditions.  I am also what I call a bare minimum guy.  I can sit at home in my condo if I want AC and a freezer with ice cream.

The first fboat I looked at was a C24.  The owner towed it from his house to a ramp maybe two miles from his house and from the time we parked till he started the engine on the dock was 37 minutes which really impressed me.  Problem was again not enough cruising ability.

 

Thanks again for your insight into boats that might fit my sailing needs.  More and more I am liking the C36; just wish Europe was open and I could find one there.

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23 hours ago, Kshack said:

 

 

 

1 hour ago, Tomfl said:

Maybe the third or forth time I spoke to Steve he invited me to go sail with him on a C31 he was taking out of the water after it returned from the Bahamas.  Thing is he was in Tampa taking the mast of a C36 and putting it on a trailer and a thunderstorm hit and he had to stop doing that so had some free time to talk.  At the time I put a higher priority on getting a boat on and off the trailer than quickly and easily than the advantages a C36 has over small fboats which he said excluded a C36 since it was not an owner only job.  Thing was he also showed me a Seawind and for a long term cruising there is no contest between a Seawind and an fboat.  Which brings up another question.  More than once I have posted docking a Seawind with twin screws well forward seemed like cheating after my previous experience with boats with a single screw.  I tend to only use my engines for docking, backing down on the anchor, and stuff like that.  I would guess this goes for all fboats/Corsairs; how easy is it to motor them in those situations.  And as for anchoring I was more talking about some tris have only one ama in the water at anchor which can be annoying at times.  Another big consideration is setting and using a bridle.  I tend to set mine and sometimes adjust the length of one side of the bridle to point the nose of the boat for the best angle for the wind/wave conditions.  I am also what I call a bare minimum guy.  I can sit at home in my condo if I want AC and a freezer with ice cream.

The first fboat I looked at was a C24.  The owner towed it from his house to a ramp maybe two miles from his house and from the time we parked till he started the engine on the dock was 37 minutes which really impressed me.  Problem was again not enough cruising ability.

 

Thanks again for your insight into boats that might fit my sailing needs.  More and more I am liking the C36; just wish Europe was open and I could find one there.

This thread is all over the place which is fun and fine. But we are off cruising and will forget about this when we get back. So if there is something I can help w shoot me a PM. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Never posted up a pic.  It was a long-arse drive from Ft. L all the way back to OR (at 60mph or less (often much less)) due to horrible trailer setup. Left on a Tuesday at 6pm E and showering at home on Friday at 9PM W).  Lots of deferred maintenance.  Hope to splash it July 4th weekend.  Furler damaged during shipping (among other things).  Fixed furler (Unit 1).  Tackling the wood laminate flooring in the cabin now (removing it to install spaghetti mat).  Will upgrade the trailer as everything attached to it is crap (UK/Euro spec, 13" wheels, 50mm coupler) IF my state agrees to issue title for it (imported into the US, but I have all the paperwork, so nothing DMV can really argue to deny me).  Beefy frame, just underwhelming axles, coupler, no proper tongue, etc. All easily doable.  Also, isn't it high time for a Corsair/Farrier Anarchy thread???

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197059596_10219535349111283_413934052232777544_n.jpg

198867798_10219535350151309_8079226921289476867_n.jpg

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39 minutes ago, garland823 said:

How necessary do you think the HD truck is to pull the boat?

I have pulled two different F31s with my 1/2 ton GMC Yukon XL (Suburban) and it was OK.  But the 5.3l Vortec didn't have enough power for me to drive comfortably at over 60 mph.  I could not use the cruise control at all and cross winds made towing a bit of a white knuckle affair. 

I upgraded to a Ram 2500 diesel (about the same wheelbase and turning radius ad the Yukon but significantly heavier).  Now I can tow as fast as I am comfortable (about 70 mph) and use the cruise control and cross winds are not really a issue at all.

I would strongly recommend an HD truck if you are going to be doing any significant amount of towing.

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1 hour ago, garland823 said:

How necessary do you think the HD truck is to pull the boat?

That's a 3500 (1-ton).  I tow a lot.... A lot.  Believe it or not, you can go too big (last truck was a 5500 Ram = too big (fuel costs, parking hassles)), but generally, go as big as you can afford if you tow.  I'm a 1-ton guy, but I've down-sized to a single rear wheel.  Me likes.

 

Too Big (but I do miss the huge tool boxes): 

 

o8.jpg

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53 minutes ago, deminimis said:

 

That's a 3500 (1-ton).  I tow a lot.... A lot.  Believe it or not, you can go too big (last truck was a 5500 Ram = too big (fuel costs, parking hassles)), but generally, go as big as you can afford if you tow.  I'm a 1-ton guy, but I've down-sized to a single rear wheel.  Me likes.

 

Too Big (but I do miss the huge tool boxes): 

 

o8.jpg

Ha! I'm currently in a diesel Colorado and dreaming of a Corsair 880. Not sure if that's gonna work and was not really planning on upgrading the truck if I don't have to.

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6 minutes ago, garland823 said:

Ha! I'm currently in a diesel Colorado and dreaming of a Corsair 880. Not sure if that's gonna work and was not really planning on upgrading the truck if I don't have to.

Depends on how far and how often you're planning on towing it. 

Around town or shorter regional trips the Colorado Diesel is probably just fine. 

If you're planning on towing it down to Mexico or across the country every year you might want something a bit bigger.

 

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58 minutes ago, garland823 said:

Ha! I'm currently in a diesel Colorado and dreaming of a Corsair 880. Not sure if that's gonna work and was not really planning on upgrading the truck if I don't have to.

Your max tow cap is around 7700, so that's not too shabby.  The short wheel base could prove probamatic or not.  Wife's best friend and her hauled a loaded to the gills cargo trailer with a ZR2 across the Mountain West to friend's new home in Denver.  No clue as to the weight, but I would guess it was comparable to an 880 (but really, no idea).  Reportedly, it did okay, but not great.  However, I could see they bent the frame.  Several reports of bent frames with those a couple years back (not saying the reports were valid).  Not sure if addressed and/or if it affects your year pickup, but it MAY be a concern?

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Tow capacity is not the problem.  My boat and trailer are at about 5,000lbs.  A weight that should be easily towed by a 1/2 ton or a Suburban.  The key factor is wind resistance, not weight.  You need something that has the power to pull the boat through the air and the weight / wheelbase to keep it steady in cross winds if you plan to do long distance towing...  Sure anything with a 5,000lb tow capacity can handle it, but if your vehicle is on the smaller end towing will be much less pleasant than with an HD truck.

 

 

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Kinda towing question.  My brother is a retired owner of a long haul trucking company who worked his way up from a long haul truck driver.  When I bought my Prindle 18-2 it came on a home built trailer and he made a big deal about tongue weight and how important it was to get the boat correctly located on the trailer so the tongue weight was not to much or little.  So what kinda stuff is necessary to make sure an fboat is correctly located on the trailer to have the right tongue weight.

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Simple.  10% of the weight (more or less).  With a Corsair (I assume Farrier as well), the word on the street (per Ira) is you want the chain plate close to centered between the wheels.  Mine needs to move forward approx 28" to make that happen.  Impossible as it sits, but once I add a proper tongue, an easy fix.

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With a Prindle 18-2, you probably have enough if the tongue stays on the ground when you disconnect from the trailer...  10% of boat / trailer weight should be about 140 lbs or maybe less.

If it tows straight now I wouldn't spend any time on it.  I'd spend my time sailing.

 

 

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3 hours ago, deminimis said:

Mine needs to move forward approx 28" to make that happen.  Impossible as it sits, but once I add a proper tongue, an easy fix.

If it was 28" too far back the trailer tongue would lift off when you unhooked from the car! More tongue weight is better than mot enough but you don't want to overload your vehicle.
Just get a 4x4 piece of lumber and mark it so you expect it to take ~100bl to lift and go by "feel" and maybe move a few inches forward or back but it shouldn't take too much unless it's entirely the wrong trailer! Also depending how much "stuff" is on the boat, moving it around can have a significant impact.
Also be careful where the supports end up: I have a roller that sits right under the bulkhead at the front of the daggerboard and you wouldn't that to be too far away as it could do some damage.
The best way to adjust is actually to leave the boat where it is and move the axle.

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2 hours ago, gbkersey said:

With a Prindle 18-2, you probably have enough if the tongue stays on the ground when you disconnect from the trailer...  10% of boat / trailer weight should be about 140 lbs or maybe less.

If it tows straight now I wouldn't spend any time on it.  I'd spend my time sailing.

 

 

The Prindle is trivial to trailer behind my Sprinter van but I am sorta kinda maybe sometime looking into a bigger something to do stuff like weekend, or a little longer, cruises.  A C24 or C27 or some other flavor of an fboat.

 

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1 hour ago, Airwick said:

If it was 28" too far back the trailer tongue would lift off when you unhooked from the car! More tongue weight is better than mot enough but you don't want to overload your vehicle.
Just get a 4x4 piece of lumber and mark it so you expect it to take ~100bl to lift and go by "feel" and maybe move a few inches forward or back but it shouldn't take too much unless it's entirely the wrong trailer! Also depending how much "stuff" is on the boat, moving it around can have a significant impact.
Also be careful where the supports end up: I have a roller that sits right under the bulkhead at the front of the daggerboard and you wouldn't that to be too far away as it could do some damage.
The best way to adjust is actually to leave the boat where it is and move the axle.

Yup, that's what it do (although it's not attached to a car).  Thanks.

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Was the day before the 4th weekend:  New axles hung from the trailer with care in hopes that that'll mount all the new brakes and wheels today, plus spare.

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I did the same to my trailer this year, but I took the boat off first.  Much lighter and easier to work from the top :)

 

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Took way longer than it should have, and I still have to plumb (after I build a tongue and install a 2 5/16 actuator), but at least it's not sitting on jacks and jack stands now.

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I have seen way too many half-assed trailers, some from reputable manufacturers, even. Price competition can truly drive a race to the bottom.

I respect and appreciate that you are doing this trailer rework WELL. Kudos!

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Stick out your tongue:  up at 5AM to try and beat the wind.  Removed the AL-KO mechanical actuator/50mm coupler.  A little test fit of the new tongue.  Still needs a couple tweaks, and I've got some galvanizing to remove, before firing up the welder, but it's close. 

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Dang, it sure is good to see someone just tackle something head-on. I've done plenty of major trailer re-building, but it takes me forever and it's painful.

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Thanks Russell.  I usually build/mod trailers/wagons or even chromo dune buggies in my shop.  No luck with this beast, so out in the elements.   I notched the tongue so its welded up under this crossmember.  Open underneath so I can route the brake line.   Ugly as hell, and disappointing, but it will hold.  Rust Bullet on the welds and wherever I ground away the galvanizing.  Front is welded in place (good enough so I can hook up to my pickup and work in the boat).  If not hooked up, I'll pop a wheelie when I climb aboard (that's for another day). Need to find some galvanized plate as going to sandwich the mid section of the tongue (using the former actuator bolt holes).  That will make it bombproof.  At least I beat the wind today.  Time for some breakfast. 

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Now that the trailer has a tongue, I can move the winch post forward.  Although I still have to mod or rebuild the post so it's 30/60 degrees,  this will allow me to move the boat forward 2' on the trailer (where it should be).  With the tongue and actuator,  the trailer's overall measurement increased by 2' as well.  Win-win.

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On 7/2/2021 at 12:55 PM, deminimis said:

Was the day before the 4th weekend:  New axles hung from the trailer with care in hopes that that'll mount all the new brakes and wheels today, plus spare.

20210702_124808.jpg

Very cool - I see you went with torsion axles.

My F-boat trailer currently has springs, which are an odd size and difficult to source, so I've thought of switching to torsion axles. 

I have two other trailers with torsion axles and I prefer the simplicity over springs. I know tandem axles with springs are theoretically better at distributing the loads between the axles, but that also gives you greater problems if one of them happens to break. I was also at my local marine trailer shop the other day and saw some huge tridem boat trailers with torsion axles, so not everybody buys into the load distributing characteristics on tandem/tridem trailers.

Any downsides to torsion axles for F-boat trailers except possibly cost?

 

 

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Thanks!  Our former wakeboard boat of similar weight came with torsion axles from the factory.  Our very heavy race trailer (10,000# GVWR) came with torsion axles.  They worked great.

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More pre-5AM days this past weekend (for outside welding before the wind came up -Still had to make some wind damns).  Built a 60 Degree winch post using 3x4 galvanized trailer tongue tube (the same used for the tongue).  Okay, it ended up being a 60.5 degree winch post because I suck, but it's plumb.  I modified the original base and gusset and reused that.  Waiting on u-bolts that will fit the new tongue.  I now have the room I need to move forward and a winch dedicated to just raising/lowering the mast.  I offset the mast winch so the dyneema now avoids the bow sprint. The boat winch gets a HD strap.  I still have to sandblast the org winch as 4 years in the Bahamas did a number on the inside of the spool, but the seal on my pressure tank is done, so waiting on a new seal for that.  I'll end up shooting the DL winch with automotive self-etching primer then I'll shoot it with Rust Bullet as I've had some good results from that stuff.  Still have to add more keel bunk for the big the move as well as adjust all the bunks (replacing all swivel bolts with stainless as well), but I can finally see the light at the end of the boat trailer tunnel.  Even added a smidge of trailer bling in the form of alumn diamond plate (to hide the repurposed galvanized flat bar I used to tongue reinforcement).  The new winch platform w/ bow roller is store bought.  I'm flash burned, metal burned and sunburned, but not burned out.  Probably time to put this stuff into a separate Corsair Anarchy thread.

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