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Cabin Sole Hatch Locks


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Is there any clever hardware item that can be retrofitted onto cabin sole hatches to lock them closed in the event of a knockdown?  I have the fold down flush pulls, and I don't really want to deal with major modifications to those (routing them out for something different).  

Thanks in advance.

 

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If speed is not required, then you can install threaded inserts in the lip underneath that the hatch sits on. Then you use a machine screw to screw into the insert to hold down the hatch. If you use screws, eventually the hole gets loose.

If you want to get fast/fancy, google "stainless steel quarter turn fasteners" (Dzus is a well known brand of these). Not sure if they offer flush or semi flush. You might have to route a pocket for the head.

 

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For securing panels that need to be infrequently removed I really like these threaded inserts used with truss head machine screws. If you get Robertson or Allen headed screws you can zip then in & out in seconds with a cordless drill or screwdriver.

40 Pack Threaded Insert Nutsert, 1/4"-20 X 15Mm Screw In Nut Threaded Wood  Inserts, For Wood Furniture(With 1/4" Allen Wrench) - Bing - Shopping

Zonk beat me to it.

I don't like Dzus for the reason that they have to be critically mated to engage - like thousands of an inch precision.

They are really intended for sheet metal applications.

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2 hours ago, kevinjones16 said:

Floor anchors. PYI has them. (pyiinc.com)

I installed the PYI ones and removed them within a couple of months. Difficult to get them all (within each sole panel) to engage correctly and then a pain to unscrew them. There was always at least one that didn't want to come out. Good idea in theory, in practice not so much.

My previous boat had 2 small tangs mounted below each sole panel, at the ends, which engaged into slots in the frames, and rotated a 1/4 turn with a machine screw set flush with the sole surface  - worked well.

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Are the sole panels above the limber holes? If so, you can pass a length of bungee with an eye on each end through the limber holes and up to a hook on the backside of the panel. With the right length of bungee the floor is held down and won’t go flying around in “exciting weather” but can be easily lifted for a quick assessment of water in the bilge or to grab something out. Now the downside is that this won’t keep hefty items in the bilge (like say cans of food) from escaping. But it will limit the number of flying skull crushers. I can post pics of mine if it would help. 

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Sorry no photos available but

We had short bits of aluminum angles attached to the floor stringers.  A socket head screw recessed into the hatch that secures an aluminum tab between two nuts and lock washers.  Fender washers for wear as appropriate. Adjust to fit.  Operate with a hex key secured in a convenient place. 

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1 hour ago, Salona said:

Velcro

Wait. Seriously?!

I have just ordered some of the super strong Velcro to try a couple of different things I usually screwed into place and if it worked there as well that would be a significant improvement over the latches I was considering.

Do you have some experience in that regard?
I have never come close to rolling over, plenty broaches though, and have not as much worry about that in the baltic but do store cans and occasionally glass bottles in the bilge. Stuff that I would not want to go flying if worst happens.

Velcro would be ridiculously low effort and no holes or anything required. Which I always like.

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Yep, that's what we're using to meet the requirements for this summer's offshore racing.  

It's incredibly strong, when applied over any substantial area. Just started putting it on the floor boards and had to remove half of it because it held the boards down too well. On trick is to only apply it to 3 sides, so that you can "peel" the flour board up on the other side.

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Time to upscale my order then! And remember to not fasten down all four sides. Just went through that with strong double sided tape... May as well have bonded it in place until I got out my heatgun to weaken the adhesive.

Which brand/type are you using specifically?

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Let us know how it is in a few years. 
I feel even a dry bilge is still prone to getting damp & moist, I'd be worried about the adhesive on the velcro itself not the actual strength of the velcro bond. 

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I don‘t think that will be an issue. Well, depending on the brand, i mean cheapness of the velcro in question. 

I have been using velcro to secure cables in the bilge for example and three years later removing them they still stuck pretty well. Had to clean everything with acetone beforehand though because otherwise nothing ever sticks. (Duh)

But sure, long term adhesion is a point of interest. 

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1 hour ago, MiddayGun said:

Let us know how it is in a few years. 
I feel even a dry bilge is still prone to getting damp & moist, I'd be worried about the adhesive on the velcro itself not the actual strength of the velcro bond. 

So replace it every couple years.

The other reason I like the velcro is that it lifts the floor boards up by an 1/8", so the water that runs down the mast doesn't wick on the underside of the floorboard and pool in weird places in the bilge/grid.

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