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Vanguard 15 mainsheet bridle options?


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New to the V15. Maiden voyage yesterday and found that the Y bridle set up easily fouls through the block on the bend of the boom. Impossible to dump the main when necessary. The mainsheet is spliced into the bridle and this is where is gets stuck by doubling back on itself when letting out the main, or it loops onto the block when letting out. Is there another way to set this up without the Y bridle system??

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Yep, something funny is going on

The bridle should be skinny & smooth enough that when you sheet in hard enough to pull it into the block, it runs back out easily/smoothly.

The Y-bridle is a great simple mainsheet system. You want it! But it does need to work properly. Can you duplicate the problem sitting on the beach and give us a pic, to help diagnose?

FB- Doug

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That reminds me of this beautiful video of a 5O5 on Lake Garda... 4:50 the splice looks a little rough but still seems to run smoothly. 

 

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8 hours ago, Thighmaster said:

doubling back on itself

Is it possible the line is "wound up" (excessively twisted), which could happen if pulled straight out from a coil after being stowed? Never seen that happen with sheets though.

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Thanks all. The main is a tad thicker than the piece spliced onto, and they double up easily. I will post photo when I can (not near the boat for a few days). Glad to hear it can be a decent system. 

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6 hours ago, Dex Sawash said:

Split too long, allowing too much double through first block?

 

7 hours ago, thengling said:

That reminds me of this beautiful video of a 5O5 on Lake Garda... 4:50 the splice looks a little rough but still seems to run smoothly. 

 

Wow - his two lines were of an even greater difference in diameter than mine, no to mention the splice is incredibly scraggly - yet it all moves through the block just fine. What if I get a larger block??

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They definitely have a larger block.  If you apply that solution, you may run afoul of class rules.  Some outfits used to sell a bridle that had skinny Dyneema bridle lines spliced together nicely.  That shouldn't be to hard to DIY.

From the factory, the boat came with bungee cords that would take the slack out of the lazy end of the bridle.  That worked reasonably well but it light air, the working end of the bridle would have a bend in it induced by the bungee, that would make the mainsheet operate in a spoungy manner.  The solution there was supposed to use a lighter bungee (as light as possible but not lighter).  Bungees always introduce a maintenance headache and will fail to do what you want at the wrong time which in this case will probably result in an undumped main (capsize or at least a crash-roundup).

Since I don't race the V15 anymore, I just settled to shorten the bridle so the splice doesn't get pulled into the block.  I keep it at a length just short enough that it runs into the block with a fair amount of vang on.  Gives decent vang sheeting at the cost of leech control.  Non-racer me doesn't fuss with rake much so it's pretty much set and forget.

For racing, you will adjust the rake and you will want leech control that you get by slurping the splice into the block.

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9 hours ago, thengling said:

That reminds me of this beautiful video of a 5O5 on Lake Garda... 4:50 the splice looks a little rough but still seems to run smoothly. 

 

And not a buoyancy aid in sight :ph34r:

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42 minutes ago, Board skiff said:

And not a buoyancy aid in sight :ph34r:

When I read your comment I was hoping to at least see a wetsuit... nope.

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  • 1 month later...
On 5/3/2021 at 6:15 AM, Dex Sawash said:

Split too long, allowing too much double through first block?

I believe that was the case. After reviewing some V15 racing footage, comparing my Y to others’, I could see the non-mainsheet part of the Y was too long. I shortened and after one outing it didn’t foul. May have done the trick. Thanks. 

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7 hours ago, Thighmaster said:

I believe that was the case. After reviewing some V15 racing footage, comparing my Y to others’, I could see the non-mainsheet part of the Y was too long. I shortened and after one outing it didn’t foul. May have done the trick. Thanks. 

The split ends should be the same length.

The reason being when you sheet in hard the boom is centered. If they are not then the boom will sit off centre.

We adjust the lengths of ours as we change rake, especially in the medium and light. Enables us to centre the boom with minimal tension, and then with a bit more tension close the leech. Heavy not so important cos the vang is maxed.

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  • 2 weeks later...

When V15's were the rage, lots of us were making upgraded mainsheets. The best mainsheets were 8mm rope with a roughly 5mm dyneema core. The 5mm core was spliced into a 3mm core, then the 3mm was split into the tail. 

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1 hour ago, ScowLover said:

When V15's were the rage, lots of us were making upgraded mainsheets. The best mainsheets were 8mm rope with a roughly 5mm dyneema core. The 5mm core was spliced into a 3mm core, then the 3mm was split into the tail. 

Was the improvement worth the advanced techniques?

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We do the same on the 505. Frequently suck the first ~1" of the bridle into the boom block. Not an issue. 

We have 8 or 9 mm mainsheet tapered to 4mm dyneema and then 3mm split for the bridle.

Marlow also makes a dual core rope called Gemini but I have heard anecdotally its no better and more expensive for sure. 

Again make sure the tails are the same length and the bury is soild and sewn so they don't fall out when off tension 

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On 6/22/2021 at 12:57 PM, ScowLover said:

Yes. It never got caught up. 

Agreed.  The stock mainsheet from the factory was of poor quality - if you tried to run that through the aft most boom block, you'd get a situation like the one you described here.  If you had a really nice thin one with high quality splice, you could have the tails suck into the end boom block just a bit, which would allow you to bring the main to centerline without adding leech tension until the final couple of clicks (which was also useful to be able to do in light air  chop where if you set your rig up loosely enough, you could use the mainsheet to have a massive effect on headstay tension in chop and be able to change gears very effectively).

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