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Need advice: 

We have an 8 yr old lawn in Myrtle Beach, SC. It’s a mix of centipede, Bermuda and clover with assorted weeds. Overall a decent continuous green. 
 

I’ve run soil samples through Clemson Ag Lab, this spring, and amended the pH and metallic salts (excess Ca) as suggested, fertilizing with an organic (chicken manure) based nitrogen as the phosphorus and potassium were good after amendment. 
 

Over seeded with centipede and filled in some bare spots with sod after trenching project.
 

I’ve been mowing at about 1 1/2” every 5 days or so, (mulching) but the Bermuda grass seems to grow much faster/higher than centipede. 
 

Question:

will mowing lower (supposedly favored for centipede) assist in it crowding out the Bermuda and clover ?  

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Dunno about your specific question but our lawn is barely grass.  Lots of moss, clover and some kind of purple spring flowery things, that are gone now.  I can't stand the idea of dumping phosphorous and nitrogen and pesticides onto our property, so refuse to do it.  Sometimes less is better, and I feel guilty burning gasoline to mow once a week, but the exercise keeps my arthritic knees somewhat less frozen up. I will never get a riding mower with a beer can holder!! 21 inch, front wheel drive, self propelled, walk behind is just fine.  

I did not realize when we moved in two and a half years ago that there is a metric shit ton of wild raspberries, and Missus BB has made some delicious jam which is heavenly when drizzled onto some Ben and Jerry's vanilla ice cream... 

Hopefully someone with some knowledge will help with your question.....

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Be careful as a few neighbors yards got totaled this year and had to go new sod 
 

I will Ask my lawn guy what he used as he has turned my Horry Weeds/Grass into good looking all grass with generally moderate 3 time a week watering 

A few neighbors have done good with a really short almost golf green grass but mostly it’s a longer variety and again I will ask 

The clover was DEFINITELY sprayed as it was spreading crazy and taking over huge areas 

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Centipede grass is horrid shit. It's the daddy monster of crab grass. In your climate you might want to try Red Fescue. It won't grow here, but I think you're 1-2 zones cooler, so it might work. It's a finer, softer grass than either Bermuda, or {{{{{{Shudder}}}}} Centipede.

Billy, your pretty blue flowers are "Ajuga". AKA "Bugle weed"

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I think I had dichondrera in So Cal.  Thick vinous stuff.  I drilled my lawnmower blade tips with 1/4 inch holes and put 1/4 x 3/4 bolts to de thatch the lawn.  I raked 7 0r 8 bags of cut grass from a really very small lawn that day but holy shit the lawn was the envy of the street two months later.

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I thought that clover was good?  People here are adding it to their grass as apparently it used to be sought after and used for pestos and other sources of food.  

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9 minutes ago, WCB said:

I thought that clover was good?  People here are adding it to their grass as apparently it used to be sought after and used for pestos and other sources of food.  

I don't know that Clover is edible, but,  it seems to be a dense cover with few other weeds popping through..  I have blue grass, rye, fescue, chickweed, Clover, creeping Charley and dandelion in my monoculture lawn.

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7 minutes ago, WCB said:

I thought that clover was good?  People here are adding it to their grass as apparently it used to be sought after and used for pestos and other sources of food.  

Clover is very good in cooler climates. In warmer climates it grows as an annual, and can leave bald patches. It's very good for enriching the soil, and it's an important source of food for honey bees and butterflies. I planted an acre of it here in N. Fl. 7 years ago, and it never even germinated. Too hot. In New England it was a good 1/4 of my lawn. Of course I also tried growing flax here.... Nothing. Up north, it self sowed every year. So it depends on your climate, and your soil make up. My soil here is largely sand, with very little organic matter until you get down about 2', then it's limestone and clay. Even with a moldboard plow it's difficult to get a good mix, as the rain washes all the clay/limestone down every year, leaving "sugar sand" on the top.

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1 hour ago, Left Shift said:

Here's a section of my lawn.  60 days without watering, 45 days without mowing.  5 years without fertilizer.

In late September it will look just fine.  But who wants to waste water or burn fuel for a green patch?lawn.pdf

I'd love to have one green patch for my boys to run around barefoot on but we don't want to use any dangerous fertilizers or chemicals and we're in a severe drought.  Sometimes you just have to say that there are far more important things in this world than a green lawn.

Not my neighbors though, on both sides.  One has a green lawn and the other side is growing a water thirsty ground cover in a high mountain desert.  

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15 hours ago, WCB said:

I'd love to have one green patch for my boys to run around barefoot on but we don't want to use any dangerous fertilizers or chemicals and we're in a severe drought.  Sometimes you just have to say that there are far more important things in this world than a green lawn.

Not my neighbors though, on both sides.  One has a green lawn and the other side is growing a water thirsty ground cover in a high mountain desert.  

 

a basic organic program is easy...  what the chemical fertilizer, pesticides, and "weed" killers  do is kill the biome in the soil which is the worst thing you can do to your plants... the biome converts the nutrients in the soil so that the plants can eat that up     i've gone from a 5000sqft yard of dead st augustine and 30 fire ant mounds  to a full yard of landscape without a single blade of grass...      you can get organic fertilizers at the big box stores...   I used liquid seaweed and liquid molasses ( liquid molasses I got at the local feed store, not the watered down shit at the landscape places and don't buy the dry stuff either) .  1/2 cup of molasses and a gallon of water in a hose end sprayer and some of the liquid seaweed about once a month...   in the fall, I would go grab bags of leaves and break them open in my yard and use the mulching blade on my mower to chop them up into the grass..   in about 2 years i had a very healthy soil and the grass could take extended texas heat and draught without much problems...    the soil has gone from clay about an inch down to 12 inches of beautiful loam over 20 years... 

 

IMG_0209c.JPG

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57 minutes ago, Grande Mastere Dreade said:

 

a basic organic program is easy...  what the chemical fertilizer, pesticides, and "weed" killers  do is kill the biome in the soil which is the worst thing you can do to your plants... the biome converts the nutrients in the soil so that the plants can eat that up     i've gone from a 5000sqft yard of dead st augustine and 30 fire ant mounds  to a full yard of landscape without a single blade of grass...      you can get organic fertilizers at the big box stores...   I used liquid seaweed and liquid molasses ( liquid molasses I got at the local feed store, not the watered down shit at the landscape places and don't buy the dry stuff either) .  1/2 cup of molasses and a gallon of water in a hose end sprayer and some of the liquid seaweed about once a month...   in the fall, I would go grab bags of leaves and break them open in my yard and use the mulching blade on my mower to chop them up into the grass..   in about 2 years i had a very healthy soil and the grass could take extended texas heat and draught without much problems...    the soil has gone from clay about an inch down to 12 inches of beautiful loam over 20 years... 

 

IMG_0209c.JPG

oh,  and I haven't used a lawn mover in 17+ years...    and fire ants were non-existent in 3 years (they don't like healthy soil)

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1 minute ago, Grande Mastere Dreade said:

oh,  and I haven't used a lawn mover in 17+ years...    and fire ants were non-existent in 3 years (they don't like healthy soil)

Careful,  somebody might call you a communist.

But I like what you've done.

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12 minutes ago, Steam Flyer said:

How the hell did you get that photo of my house?!?

- DSK

What's my Buick Skylark doing in tour yard?!

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10 minutes ago, Mrleft8 said:
22 minutes ago, Steam Flyer said:

How the hell did you get that photo of my house?!?

 

What's my Buick Skylark doing in tour yard?!

Oh, that's yours? OK you can have it back any time... some friend of our neighbors parked it there so we could shine the headlights on some deer. Then I needed some parts.... sorry 'bout that......

- DSK

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1 minute ago, Steam Flyer said:

Oh, that's yours? OK you can have it back any time... some friend of our neighbors parked it there so we could shine the headlights on some deer. Then I needed some parts.... sorry 'bout that......

- DSK

Are you going back to grab that tire?  Or can I have it?

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Looking for tips on what will survive female Labrador pee. The small patch of grass left after the rest of the yard was converted to DG is now mostly dead brown spots connected loosely by the little bit of the Marathon sod that hasn't been peed on.   

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31 minutes ago, A3A said:

Looking for tips on what will survive female Labrador pee. The small patch of grass left after the rest of the yard was converted to DG is now mostly dead brown spots connected loosely by the little bit of the Marathon sod that hasn't been peed on.   

artificial turf. Maybe.

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16 minutes ago, Rum Runner said:

How about putting up a confederate flag on your lawn? People will probably leave all kinds of interesting stuff during the night.

Interestingly enough, the "rebel flag" that most people think of as the confederate flag, is quite rarely seen around here lately. Used to be all over the place. Bubba flew one in front of his mobile home, lots of T-shirts with it, etc etc.

Over the past 6 months, it's almost disappeared.

Suits me fine, I was born and raised in the South and I always thought it stood for being a dumbass, anyway.

- DSK

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Keep in mind that Bermuda generally likes to be mown close as well.  It’s common on golf courses.   If you had Bermuda up north mixed  with cool season grasses. There are some chemical options to help mitigate, but Bermuda is like cancer.  If you don’t get all of it.  It will come back. 

If sprayed my back yard with glyphosate several times to kill everything and Reseed  with fescue    Even after waiting a few weeks and doing a second herbicide application to ensure I got all the Bermuda...it came back.

mechanical removal Via sod cutter is an option,  but again.  If you don’t get it all,  it’s money wasted.   

Best of luck...

 

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6 hours ago, Steam Flyer said:

Oh, that's yours? OK you can have it back any time... some friend of our neighbors parked it there so we could shine the headlights on some deer. Then I needed some parts.... sorry 'bout that......

- DSK

That's OK.... My cousin pretty much trashed it back in 81... She's not the best donut in the box of our sugar coated family.

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20 hours ago, Marcjsmith said:

Keep in mind that Bermuda generally likes to be mown close as well.  It’s common on golf courses.   If you had Bermuda up north mixed  with cool season grasses. There are some chemical options to help mitigate, but Bermuda is like cancer.  If you don’t get all of it.  It will come back. 

If sprayed my back yard with glyphosate several times to kill everything and Reseed  with fescue    Even after waiting a few weeks and doing a second herbicide application to ensure I got all the Bermuda...it came back.

mechanical removal Via sod cutter is an option,  but again.  If you don’t get it all,  it’s money wasted.   

Best of luck...

 

 

bermuda has some deep fucking roots....    at least around here... 

 

best way to get rid of bermuda,   try to cultivate it...

 

and Marc,  quit using those chemicals,  good friend was a landscaper and has developed parkinsons after being exposed to that shit...   he can no longer sail..

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3 hours ago, Grande Mastere Dreade said:

and Marc,  quit using those chemicals,  good friend was a landscaper and has developed parkinsons after being exposed to that shit...   he can no longer sail..

Thanks for the concern.  It my job and has been my job for well, since the 90’s. Landscpaper by trade.  Now I’m only managing people.  And i only apply the good stuff at my own home.  So I’m only mixing 1-2 gallons at a time.  No longer 1-200 gallons.

i like to think ive been pretty safe during my years of application.  Respirators, gloves, longs pants etc.  i think my biggest concern is sun exposure//cancer.  So far still clear.

  I wouldn’t have a problem with Bermuda if I could get it spread evenly.    

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I'm looking to have an evolving low maintenance solution. 

Did the Glyphosate in the bucket, spraying under the vines, while pre-pruning with a sickle bar and flail mowing the canes shtick back when I share cropped vineyards. Amazing what you can do with a little Kubota and some ingenuity. 

If "Bermuda" is what I used to call "crab grass" in the North, and it winter kills, then perhaps boosting the centipede during the cold months is a tactic. As regards the clover and other weeds, as long as they are indistinguishable at a distance they are welcome.  The stuff that grows 8 " in a week I can do without, and hopefully that will get crowded out soon enough. 

 

 

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Pretty sure that is a 68 Pontiac Lemans.   

1969 Pontiac Le Mans - Pictures - CarGurus | Pontiac lemans, 1969 pontiac  lemans, Classic cars muscle

Please note the lawn in the background...  to keep with the thread.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 8/9/2021 at 11:31 AM, Grande Mastere Dreade said:

 

a basic organic program is easy...  what the chemical fertilizer, pesticides, and "weed" killers  do is kill the biome in the soil which is the worst thing you can do to your plants... the biome converts the nutrients in the soil so that the plants can eat that up     i've gone from a 5000sqft yard of dead st augustine and 30 fire ant mounds  to a full yard of landscape without a single blade of grass...      you can get organic fertilizers at the big box stores...   I used liquid seaweed and liquid molasses ( liquid molasses I got at the local feed store, not the watered down shit at the landscape places and don't buy the dry stuff either) .  1/2 cup of molasses and a gallon of water in a hose end sprayer and some of the liquid seaweed about once a month...   in the fall, I would go grab bags of leaves and break them open in my yard and use the mulching blade on my mower to chop them up into the grass..   in about 2 years i had a very healthy soil and the grass could take extended texas heat and draught without much problems...    the soil has gone from clay about an inch down to 12 inches of beautiful loam over 20 years... 

 

IMG_0209c.JPG

Thanks for the tips...I'll give your tips a go and see what it can do.  We've had a lot of rain recently (as far as Utah goes) and things are looking pretty good right now but I want to start working on next year's lawn.

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On 8/8/2021 at 10:28 AM, LionessRacing said:

Need advice: 

We have an 8 yr old lawn in Myrtle Beach, SC. It’s a mix of centipede, Bermuda and clover with assorted weeds. Overall a decent continuous green. 
 

I’ve run soil samples through Clemson Ag Lab, this spring, and amended the pH and metallic salts (excess Ca) as suggested, fertilizing with an organic (chicken manure) based nitrogen as the phosphorus and potassium were good after amendment. 
 

Over seeded with centipede and filled in some bare spots with sod after trenching project.
 

I’ve been mowing at about 1 1/2” every 5 days or so, (mulching) but the Bermuda grass seems to grow much faster/higher than centipede. 
 

Question:

will mowing lower (supposedly favored for centipede) assist in it crowding out the Bermuda and clover ?  

no. answer is never mowing lower. it hurts the grass. Cut it higher and cut with sharp blades 

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both my backyard of Zoyia grass and front yard of crabgrass (I think it may be the finest crabgrass in the entire Commonwealth) are growing great this year.  Both have retaken territory clover had invaded.

My secret?   I did not fertilize.  But more importantly, I have aerated the lawn every 6-8 weeks usually before a heavy rain.  The normal Southern baked clay below the topsoil has remained loose and more importantly, the mulch clippings are not clogging as the aerator punches holes through the thatch.

As simple as attaching this to the lawn tractor after cutting and doing a lap of the yard with a cold one in the drink holder that is transferred to my stomach.

https://www.amazon.com/Brinly-PA-40BH-Behind-Aerator-40-Inch/dp/B0026T4716/ref=sxin_15_ac_d_pm?ac_md=4-3-QWJvdmUgJDIwMA%3D%3D-ac_d_pm_pm_pm&crid=23R2JXO26YI2K&cv_ct_cx=lawn+aerator&dchild=1&keywords=lawn+aerator&pd_rd_i=B0026T4716&pd_rd_r=840e0587-7736-4489-9506-ed2531a9811b&pd_rd_w=KUJ1G&pd_rd_wg=i465T&pf_rd_p=59cd35b3-fd01-41c8-b226-e181f5db7b0f&pf_rd_r=YDWMWVNB7SSV3D9YS545&psc=1&qid=1629830850&sprefix=lawn+aer%2Caps%2C211&sr=1-4-22d05c05-1231-4126-b7c4-3e7a9c0027d0

 

it does not just make holes. It pulls out and flings 1/2 x 1"  plugs so water and clippings can get into the soil.   You do need to strap 4 solid concrete blocks on top to get proper penetration.  After the rain, the plugs that were laying on top of the grass has dissolved.

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