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Volvo 2030 oil pan leak


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wondering if anyone else has this issue.

I have a First 40.7 with a Volvo 2030 engine.  runs great.

I have noticed that it now has very slight an oil pan leak.  after 8 hrs of running the front of the engine oil pan has a drip or two of oil.

I noticed this after it was serviced - :)  But who really knows.

I found I could tighten up the front bolts 1/4 turn but could not get to bolts in rear.  However; I still have a very small leak.  As I think any type of leak is bad.  

I think I have to remove the engine from engine bay to get to oil pan bolts and do the job correctly.  engine is really in a tight - I could unattach it from sail drive and perhaps jack it up but at that point i think I might as well take it out.

Has anyone else had this type of issue - with a Volvo and how did you fix it?  were you able to replace oil pan gasket with engine in position? 

 

Thanks

Tom

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Leave it until it gets worse.

A lot worse.

Seriously, yank an engine over a drop every 4 hours of run time?

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I have been seeking the perfect definition of a person with too much time on their hands for ages. and now I have it: "...yank an engine over a drop of oil every 4 hours of run time." Yep, that'll do.

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That area is right underneath the front crankshaft seal.  Are you sure it is coming from the oil pan and not just oil pooling on the pan flange from the crankshaft?  The front seal is easy to replace on this engine, but make sure you use a wheel puller and not a gear puller to remove the drive pulley.  The other common oil leak area is the front left corner (when looking at the water pump) where the throttle shaft goes through the timing cover.  This is a simple o-ring, but a PITA to replace.

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Thanks for feedback I will check that out.   I will degrease engine and tape some paper towel at bottom of crankshaft seal to see if its leaking.

Have not heard about about throttle shaft leak - will look there also.   

thanks again 

Tom

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

Well it been a while as sailing was better then repairing.   I can’t see to locate the leak - it still seems like it’s coming from alternator side of engine at oil pan. - I tried dye but it does not seem to fluoresce.  I put in in engine ran the engine pulled dip stick to see it glow - using black light and goggles - saw nothing.   So.. I wiped around front of engine found a little black oil-that also did not glow.   Does anyone have experience with fluorescent dyes?   What type would you recommend?   
thanks 

Tom 

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Max,

 

thanks for the question.

The dye under the light is not bright yellow it was muted orangish so to speak but it glowed.  So yes I tested the light on the bottle and the supplied glasses and it glowed - not y brightly as expected.

Does Dye have a shelf life?  Or perhaps I got the wrong dye.  I used one oz. per 5 liters per the instructions- Volvo MD2030 has 4.5L of oil.

Dye was Auto Pro Fluorescent leak detector dye.  Part number 374CS.  Amazon of course and it says it can be used with engines.

I there a special dye that should be used with diesels?   

 

Thanks

Tom

 

 

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Is there a way to back-test to see if the Volvo engines have a farm, AG or industrial use?

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This engine started life as a Perkins 100 series available in many industrial applications. It did have a life prior to Perkins but won't bore you with that. Oil leaks can be hard to trace, good clean and then look for the highest point of the leak. Unlikely to be the sump gasket, check the breather system well. 

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  • 1 month later...

Hello,  after a lot of cleaning and running then checking some more I have a idea of where it could be leaking.  it only seems to leak after running at 2700 rpm for a while.

front of oil pan seems to be leaking. so I think i have to pull engine to get to that puppy.

The other leak is by this rubber cap on a tube on port side of engine under oil filter.  I am told its removable for oil changes - kind of cool way to change oil.  you are supposted to attach a hose to a suction pump and pump out the oil.  I thought crankcases had pressure so... little confused here that a rubber cap would hold the oil in.

Can someone confirm what its purpose is.  i attached a PPT .  It only on the "D" engine as far as I can tell.image.png.86d26c84e313a2fb0d5c4e116455855e.png

volvo engine leak.pptx

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On 8/12/2021 at 10:36 AM, Lucky Dog said:

wondering if anyone else has this issue.

I have a First 40.7 with a Volvo 2030 engine.  runs great.

I have noticed that it now has very slight an oil pan leak.  after 8 hrs of running the front of the engine oil pan has a drip or two of oil.

I noticed this after it was serviced - :) But who really knows.

I found I could tighten up the front bolts 1/4 turn but could not get to bolts in rear.  However; I still have a very small leak.  As I think any type of leak is bad.  

I think I have to remove the engine from engine bay to get to oil pan bolts and do the job correctly.  engine is really in a tight - I could unattach it from sail drive and perhaps jack it up but at that point i think I might as well take it out.

Has anyone else had this type of issue - with a Volvo and how did you fix it?  were you able to replace oil pan gasket with engine in position? 

 

Thanks

Tom

Don’t know Volvo , but I have never had an oil pan seal leak 

oil leaks can be caused by excess crankcase pressure .. check the breather 

output shaft seals can leak 

best if you clean, sterilize the engine , then look for the leak 

my last leaker was the oil dip stick assembly on an MTU . Took forever to find … It only leaked when the boat  heeled 

 

 

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brake cleaner is your friend.  Spray on the affected areas ( not with the engine running)   clean up the run off in the engine bed.  Put some of those oil sorb sheets( look like paper towels) in the engine bed to catch the leaks. If after a  month the oil sorb only has spots, I would not worry about it,, a pig patch is something to look at.

20 year old engine will have some "sweat" the rubber seals/ gaskets  will be hard and lose their  ability to seal,, tighting bolts will only make it worse. (since oil does not evaporate. it could be years of sweat build up)

If you need to add oil after 50 hours of motoring.. i would say you have an issue somewhere. ( internal or external leakage)

For Cars,,  .5 liter per 1600km is considered "normal" 

I did the brake clean thing on my VP2030 in June this year,, ( 2 cans of brake clean)  After the season the drip pads only at a slight brown mark ( size of a quarter).. I "had more dust from the alternator belt" 

while this may not help.. it may put your mind at ease... for now.

 

The volvo penta EPC is a great place to see exploded views of your engine and parts that are available

https://www.volvopentashop.com/epc/en-US/Details/PentaPartsCatalog/7740690_033?path=MarineDieselEngines%2F7740690%2F7740690_2200%2F7740690_033

 

PS when looking at boats to buy I would always steer clear of the ones with lots of 1/2 empty 15w/40 oil containers . something is up..

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That is the suction tube for changing the oil.

If same cap as in pic, and original to the engine, just change the cap

I have a short section of hose clamped over the tube with a bolt as the plug with another hose clamp holding it. Makes easy oil change: pull bolt, insert suction tube, evacuate oil

As for the engine, is a Perkins  Perama M30 in the US for search purposes: parts at NAPA. In Asia or east Europe can probably find the original Japanese tractor references, and I can’t recall that name, was it Shibaura?

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16 hours ago, Lucky Dog said:

Can someone confirm what its purpose is.  i attached a PPT .  It only on the "D" engine as far as I can tell.

I also had a 2030 and can confirm that is the oil suction pipe. How are you getting oil out of the engine if you are not using that???

2700 is running that engine pretty hard - mine used a lot less fuel at 2400 ish. I'd only occasionally take it as high as 2700.

I'd also fall in the camp of doing nothing unless the smell of the oil is driving you nuts. I've got a lot of hours on a lot of engines that leak a little oil.

Shibaura rings a bell, but that boats log book is packed away somewhere.

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Thanks for all the reply's.

I run the engine at 2700 as my normal speed when I have a long distance to travel - engine max is 3200 so I am well below that.

Yep understand its a Pharma 30 - I use those parts for filters have not had to purchase any parts (yet).  

the brake clean is a good idea will do so next spring.

For oil changes I have either had a mechanic do them or I suck oil out the dipstick tube - this tube will work much better as pick up is at bottom of pan.

SO  here is story of oil leak - bought boat in 2015 no oil leak at all.  Replaced sail drive as it got bent by lifting slings.  Mechanic changed oil as part of sail drive replacement.  I used him next year and then started sucking oil out dip stick.  I felt i was not getting all oil out but most of it.  

2019 we had really high water levels and I got diesel with water in it. Noticed seperator had water in in a week prior to my annual race and had a volvo service team take a look.  they pumped the tank filtered the fuel and "fixed" the hard starting engine.   $1500 US later I was good to go.  It was nice to make a call and everything was done - so i thought.

Engine was still hard to start but it would - raced the race and noticed a small oil leak in front.  While on vacation on way home.  went to sailing anarchy fix it forum to figure out why engine was hard starting - 3 messages later, advice to test glow plugs - turns out glow plug relay was not properly seated.  Pushed it in and was good to go.

Oil leak in front was increasing - felt around front of engine and found front oil pan bolts were hand tight - only the bolts that you could easily reach with a socket it seemed.  Tighted them up and leak "stopped".  bolts in the back that i used a wrench to reach seemed OK not hand tight.

I really have no idea if those guys loosened  those bolts.  I worked in a motor service shop in a really nice neighborhood and we had one guy that do bad things to cars for fun - some people are just assholes.

Question as some one pointed out 2700 rpm might be hard on an engine would that be a reason bolts loosened?  I have to pull the motor to get to oil pan gasket  (some time next year) so while its out is there any other recommended items I should look at?  Engine will have ~ 400hrs on it.

thanks much 

Tom

 

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5 hours ago, Max Rockatansky said:

I have a short section of hose clamped over the tube with a bolt as the plug with another hose clamp holding it. Makes easy oil change: pull bolt, insert suction tube, evacuate oil

Sounds just like sucking it out the dipstick tube only more complicated.

How is it an improvement?

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The suction tube on my volvo is very hard to access, extending it with a length of hose like Max made it much simpler. The dedicated tube works faster than the dipstick, and may be lower in the pan.

Lucky, the finding of hand tight oil pan bolts is odd. Some car engines have oil pan bolt torque sequences to follow, similar to head bolts. I guess it is possible that the bolt tightening was so out of wack front to back that the oil pan or gasket was damaged causing your leak. 

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2700 is not hard on the engine.. Lucky says the max RPM is 3200   times 85% is 2750.

not changing your oil. ** every year**  running out of oil,  water in the diesel.  bad injector, no airfilter,  over heating/ running at idle for long periods. over revving . that's what hurts engines.  Beyond that  there is nothing you can control in an engines life.

yes you use more fuel @2700rpm..  but its doing more work,,

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thanks for the information - regarding the dip stick oil extraction.  I would put a thin plastic tube down tube and extract oil with my oil extraction pump.  Attaching the tube to the actual oil change tube is a better solution as its pick up is at bottom of oil pan. 

I have seen engines with a oil extraction pump mounted to engine.  I could mount that to pipe and strap it to the engine.  Perhaps I will consider doing that later.

Has anyone done this to there engine?

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Very few engines have  drain plug configuration that fully drains the oil. Cast aluminum pans are capable of proper full drain design but often are not. Stamped steel pans have the threaded weldedment inside that will nearly always block a full drain. Some stamped pans have a loosely caged captive nut that allows fuller draining but that may block the bits of stuff that are in the last of the oil. 

Don't sweat too much about a suck out if you are getting full volume. Can always pull drain plug after to see if you get a few drips or 3 ounces in a yoghurt cup.

We keep some dogshit-tier oil around to do a double drain occasionally. Hot engine, drain oil, leave old filter on, refill with 10w-dogshit and let idle a minute or two and then do oil and filter with proper oil.

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On 11/19/2021 at 9:09 AM, break my wallet said:

2700 is not hard on the engine.. Lucky says the max RPM is 3200   times 85% is 2750.

Just closing the loop on this one as my memory was completely wrong.

The engine manual says deregulation speed is 3900 rpm and my boat manual says maximum power is at 3600rpm.

I dug out the logbook and I also used to run it at 2800 rpm regularly and over 3000 rpm occasionally.

Sorry for giving misinformation from memory - must be time to reduce the wine consumption.

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So here are the specifications for this engine regarding RPM.  I am assuming less 10% would be a good cruising speed if you were in a hurry (2880 rpm if 3200rpm was max).  

Here is full throttle operating speed 3200 to 3600 rpm - not sure why it gives a range.  Is that due to perhaps different engines will have different propellers (i.e. load)?

Added full spec's also.

Question: does this tell me I could run this motor at 3100 rpm for an extended time with no damage?

 

image.thumb.png.10d84dc7af943895ba4520ad1dbeec79.png

md2030 specs.pdf

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Your torque peak is the important number - that is where any IC engine is most efficient.

For you it looks like 2400 - 2800 is the sweet spot.

If you prop your boat to reach hull speed around 2800 in flat water you will get best economy and still have 800 RPM in reserve for punching against weather etc.

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