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Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries: Are they safe?

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Pretty sophisticated discussion on SSRs - above my pay grade.  IMHO I agree with use of mechanical relays for substantial currents or bus bar connections.  There are some interesting latching relays out there, but not cheap.  See TBS Electronics battery switch.  Also, totally agree with reference to Marine How to article.  Very lengthy but VERY informative.  Also, check out the Wakespeed external regulators for thermal control of alternators and very sophisticated charge controlling.  Also, if you are serious, check out converting to external diodes to remove 50% of the heat being generated by the alternator. see mgdc-remote-alternator-rectifier.pdf (oceanplanetenergy.com) Also, the consensus is that FLA is the best solution for starter batteries if you have a separate set.  Finally interesting you tube video on keeping FLA in a LiPo system. Best Way to Charge Lithium - Mix it with Lead - YouTube I think his idea makes a lot of sense and pretty much eliminates the BMS sudden shut off problem, although not a solution for someone really trying to eliminate weight.  Also, I think Panbo.com has very interesting articles on all things marine electronics.  They just did a lengthy piece on DIY Lipo.  The comments are generally worth reading.

This whole topic is interesting, but complex - especially on larger systems.  Good luck

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3 hours ago, SimonGH said:

I see it as just a time thing.

I don't think the battery "likes" one better.

I don't believe there is any longevity advantage to 20A vs 5A charging.

Thanks.  This is what I like to see.  

2 hours ago, IStream said:

Why screw around with the terminal fasteners every time, run the risk of dropping it, forgetting it, and every other mistake that could be associated with lugging a battery in and out of a boat over and over again? Connecting an extension cord to the charger before you leave it is about as foolproof as you can get.

Because the boat doesn't live at home with me.  I keep it at a local marina, in dry storage (no power outlets).  

Given I pretty much have to build (assemble) the boat every time I use it, and the fact that the new battery only weighs 24lbs, having to take it out every time, really isn't a big deal.  Originally I was going to go solar and charge it in the boat, but that was when I was using an AGM battery that weighed nearly 50lbs.  That thing was a pain to get out from behind the seat.

3 hours ago, George Dewey said:

I wonder how long a 100Ahr battery will run a trolling motor? How much would a motor for a boat like this draw?

My Riptide-45 has a max (full throttle) draw of 42A, but the speed control on this model has "Pulse Width Modulation" (Minn Kota calls it their "Digital Maximizer"), so it's harder to get exact run-time numbers like you might if the throttle ran through a resistor.   

A fellow WR-16 owner claimed to be getting 4 hours, using the same motor/battery I have, but I'm not sure what his throttle setting was.  I never run at 100%.  Usually 50% - 75%.  

3 hours ago, weightless said:

I couldn't find a way to delete this box.  


6 hours ago, George Dewey said:

I would sure go with the 20A. 

Why?  Just for the time saved?  

4 hours ago, IStream said:

You're probably into this for ~$1000 when all's said and done, so why not spend the extra $100 for the more capable charger?


Actually, no.  I'm into it for about $440, so a $100+ charger would be nearly 25% of the battery cost.  

I'm not opposed to buying a new, more powerful charger.  I just don't see the point if the charger I already have will work fine.  

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9 minutes ago, weightless said:

I have no recollection of saying that, Senator.

You didn't.  I wrote it.  For some reason I couldn't get the quoted box, or whatever it's called, to delete.  

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1 hour ago, Winston29 said:

You didn't.  I wrote it.  For some reason I couldn't get the quoted box, or whatever it's called, to delete.  

I am amazed ;) Maybe that particular box didn't want to go to the great bit bin in the sky? If a quote box in the forum editor has accepted its fate one can delete it by backspacing over it or highlighting it and hitting delete or putting the cursor above it and hitting delete until the offending box is eradicated. I have attempted to engage them in prolonged discussions of phenomenology but so far no box has deleted itself in despair. I don't think that's best practice. Also, it's kinda cruel.


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  • 1 month later...

I thought I'd tack this little question on here in the hope that someone else has seen this and knows what it is.  

I've read that a flashing Stand-By light can mean, among other things, that the battery is fully charged and can't take any more charging.  Problem is, I can't find anything about the blue, battery selector light flashing with it.  Has anyone else seen this with their charger?

The battery is currently showing 13.61 Volts.  

This never happened when charging my 12V/55 Amp-Hr. AGM.  



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I got this from NOCO tonight.  


April C (NOCO) 

Nov 22, 2021, 20:12 MST 


Thank you for contacting NOCO Support. 

One or more of the internal cells of the battery is likely out of balance and the battery BMS is opening a relay to stop charge until that cell(s) has a chance to slowly equalize. When the battery BMS opens up their relay, the charger sees this as a disconnect (same as someone taking off a charger lead) and goes to standby. Once the battery BMS sees the internal cell slowly equalize, it closes the relay again. At that point the charger sees that the connection to the battery has been made again and tries to charge again. And the cycle would just repeat. If this is the case then this wouldn't harm the battery nor the charger and the condition would just continue to cycle until the battery's internal cell settles into an equal state with the other cells. This could likely last several hours.

Kind regards,

April | Support

The NOCO Company

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  • 2 weeks later...




NOCO suggested the the blinking lights I was seeing were due to a cell being out of balance in the battery.  

The battery manufacturer said it was the charger.  


I'm sure you'll all be thrilled to know that I've solved the problem by replacing my Genius-5 with a Genius-10.  

Now I'm getting the correct lights when the battery reaches full charge.  I'm not sure why the 5 Amp charger wasn't working with my new LiFeP04 battery.  

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