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Is there an easy cleaner for this?


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Can't open the attachment but the best non-mechanical metal cleaner/polish I know of is Autosol.

Boiling the part in water/Baking Soda beforehand can really work well too - great at stripping paint off.

MotoCare, Chemistry & Oils | AUTOSOL METAL POLISH - Polishing paste for  metal 750ml | JAWAPARTS.COM - parts for JAWA, ČZ, JAWA-ČZ, Stadion,  Babetta, Simson,...

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CLR and diluted muriatic acid work wonders.  Start with the acid, finish with the CLR.  Scrub with a brass brush.

If you're feeling lazy and that's too much work, an aerosol can of foaming heat exchanger cleaner(for AC units) does an acceptable though not perfect job, spray on, scrub with any sort of brush.  Rinse.  Done.  

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  • 4 weeks later...
1 hour ago, bstrdsonofbtl said:

applied to teak = ?

Quote

 the acid can eat into the wood, causing gouges that cannot be repaired

lol... ok to depending on how well it works on the aluminium backing plate* I may just gingerly dab some on the oxide build up on the bulkhead to see if it's easier to scrape off.

* it's bubbling! 

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On 11/26/2021 at 4:46 PM, Startracker said:

CLR and diluted muriatic acid work wonders.  Start with the acid, finish with the CLR.  Scrub with a brass brush.

One on top the other or rinse repeat? 'cause muratic acid alone I still digging it out of the pits.

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On 12/18/2021 at 8:06 PM, bstrdsonofbtl said:

One on top the other or rinse repeat? 'cause muratic acid alone I still digging it out of the pits.

Alternating.  I go back and forth several times, brushing with the brass brush, basically scrubbing in a circular motion. Apply acid, scrub, let soak, rinse, apply CLR, scrub, let soak, rinse, apply acid.  Repeat until bored, but end on CLR not acid. 

 

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Whatever you choose, when you go to remount that piece, spray it with zinc chromate and tape the bottom with PVC tape.

Then it will be the owner after next who may have to deal with it again.

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