Recent content by bulkleycorp

V berth was quite long…. Btw I started that thread on sailnet link above back in 2008…lol.  I miss the boat, sold it due 1) time to maintain, 2) wanted smaller/easier/cheaper boat, 3) wanted trailer storage in case I needed to winter store at home…. Was a mistake in retrospect… should have kept...

Same here, used on my last boat for many years...

i had the same reaction. everytime i see examples of corroded keel bolts they are in the area within the stub, not at the top....

+ 100 on the receipts. if they can't supply the receipts....walk...no run away.

i hear you...as i think about it with all the work in removing and angle grinding....i may just pick up some new links...the res of th chain is good, amd the upper is only one year old. thx.

Just checked the chain today...noticed wear on several links on the end connecting to the upper chain. Rest of chain to the mushroom eye looks good. I'm thinking or reversing chain ends. So I would connect the worn end to mushroom eye a few links down past the worn links. Would I need to...

have you heard of a tool called google? To start... http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=1206 Generally speaking Tanzer owners can be found on the Tanzer Yahoo newsgroup. It's mainly T22 owners but ypu can find some owners of other hulls as well.

i have an '85 S2 27, it's a cored hull, but was told by S2 that it's solid glass at keel. i had the smile but grooved it out and put on 34oz biaxial fiberglass cloth, the another layer of lighter finishing cloth..no more smiles.

If you're still looking try either a refurbished Nikkor lens, or try KEH.com, they have good used equipment.

If all is well in neutral, what about the tranny? Or how about stuffing box or cutless bearing being wrong size or causing friction?? Only time this happened to my 1gm-10 was a heavily barnacled prop. Once cleaned she hit 3k plus rpm.

I have had good luck getting stainless at metalsupermarkets.com, pricing is very good for small lots. They have a wide variety, and if you call them they'll work with you to source the most cost effective parts. Basically they're a franchise of machine shops amd metal distributors.

i've been told to not use backing plates that are square (ie, not rounded) as they can create a more localized stress point. i'm not a structural engineer so not sure if they mean simple rounding the corners so they don't form a tight angle, or if the edges need to be rounded, etc..

+1 re Hamilton Marine. Try to buy the steel mushrooms that have the larger flange - will wear down much smaller than other mushrooms. i would go with 300# mushroom - 5/8" bottom - 3/8" top chain. you may want to contact one of the local yacht clubs - they may have someone that installs...

+1 re Stanadyne - graet stuff.

harbor freight has their cheapie version too - in fact there is a youtube link with a guy doing a demo.