In my case, the starter battery still has the automotive style "wrap around the post" clamp type lug, that was put on the of some very very hefty welding cables.
it basically looks like this:
In the off season i'll probably convert it to a proper crimped lug that goes on the threaded post...
So to circle back with you all....it was a ground issue, but not where the cable attached to the engine.
my ground problem was actually with the end that attaches to the battery. the connection between the wire and the lug itself was dodgy.
after I cleaned and freshened that up, it started...
My google-fu and forum searching has come up with zilch, so maybe you all can help a dude out.
Where exactly is the battery ground location on a yanmar 3gm30f?
Does anyone have a picture of where the ground is?
I suspect that all 1GM,2GM, and 3GM series use the same lug, so I'll...
Thanks all for the ideas
heres what I tried to get it running
new spark; no change
re cleaned fuel filter; no change
checked float level by letting the drain valve flow into a plastic cup and submerging the entire carb to see what level the fuel came up to; it clearly covered over the main...
I have not directly checked spark, but I have run it for 5 minutes at a shot, by alternating the choke on and off. I deduce if I had shitty spark, I could not do that. I did pull the plug and didn’t notice anything really amiss.
For fuel, I tried some of that “tru fuel” pre mixed for chainsaws...
The engine is in really good shape. and runs with choke....but never without anymore.
I have disassembled and reassembled the carb about 50 times by this point. i doubt i am so consistent to screw it up in the same way every time, so i doubt that is the cause...
but thanks for helping me...
howdy y'all. I need some help with my sanity.
I have an older Nissan outboard that will not run without choke on. and even then only at idle.
particulars: 1996 Nissan 3.5 hp - 2 stroke with internal fuel tank.
engine is based on a Tohatsu, also same as the 3.3 hp 2-stroke Mercury.
so here is my answer.....that tack cost you about 17 feet directly at the mark, compared to if you didn't tack.
here is my work:
My inference of your VMG, based on some back-calculating of the wind angle based on your stead tacks before and after the tack.
For the blue line- that's your boat...
cool. how did you calculate VMG?
With SOG, I can back-calculate it if I knew which direction the wind was coming from.
My inspection of hte data seems to indicate the wind was basically steady from 265. yes/no?
Sounds like you have the mathematical answer.
In lighter winds, I suspect that you'd spend a whole lot longer down speed before getting the locomotive rolling down the tracks again, which would likely make the time and distance penalty larger.
Also, there is some other tactical info to get out...
we decided that for 2014, for the good of everything in the mrgnstrn household, that our boat would not be raced.
I race other boats.
their shredded sails and their insurace and their white knuckles over getting T-boned by a more-money-than-brains skipper behind a 10000 lb "toy".
Dumb question time, and I hope I'm not insulting your intelligence with it, but it's the kind of thing I'd screw up.
Your picture above shows that you have tied your loops as interlocking each other...but the "whole thing" is a big loop too.
so in reporting your breaking strength...
I've noodled on this a bit and it seems that you have to keep them separate.
CBYRA is really the gooey glue that is supposed to connect "users" like OD racers, PHRF racers, DInghy racers to the suppliers like Clubs running races.
or something like that.
Of course, of those, OD and Dinghy have...