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If you're building it to Gary's plans I'd stick to the plans. If you make the amas bigger, for example, you need stronger beams, everything gets heavier, etc. Dan St. Gean built a Wa'apa years back and sailed it all over. You might see if you can get in touch with him and ask him how it went...

You can use the lazy sheet as a preventer, but I never do. In gusty conditions it's too much fiddling. Anyway, I'm sure y'all will work it out. Just wanted to toss my .02 worth in, in case any of it might be useful.

Same, port and starboard bows and no sterns if the boat is sitting still. When I'm sailing I call stuff the "forward xxx" and the "aft xxx". So I have a forward and aft main on the schooner rig, forward and aft hatches, etc.

I think Laurent is pretty aware of the relative dangers of sailing a small schooner rigged proa in a lot of wind :) He and I have sailed small schooner rigged proas on the Texas coast for several years now. This isn't theory he's giving you. FWIW, I agree with him. Booms that can hit masts are...

Offset sliding beams, looks like an L7, no?

I'd bag both sides on a table to produce a glass-foam-glass panel, then treat the resulting panel like plywood and build according to plans. But I'm hardly a pro at this. Certainly bagging would keep weight down, and would reduce sanding to where you have to tape the joints in the final...

Are you going to bag the panels? That would keep excess epoxy weight down, anyway.

Szissor only works because it pivots to put the lee ama forward, though. That's not really simple. Simple would be a SC hull for the center, some beachcat hulls for the amas, and a rig, like this guy: Fast and simple. That's a lot of speed potential for not much money or building time, IMO.

Oh! Ok. Is it stable on the water folded? Or perhaps more to the point, are the hinges designed to take any stress when folded?

Oh wait you mean one ama folded and one not. Of course. Nevermind.

I thought the W17 folded with the amas over the main hull. Are you using Farrier style folding?

You could remove some weight by taking the double metal bow beams off and replacing them with a single carbon tube. That would probably help a bit. Then if you're thinking about cutting the bows off and building fatter or longer bows anyway, why not experiment first? Try some bow bulbs. Fast...

Glad he found something to read (or listen to). Somehow David Sedaris seems like the perfect book for a trip like this. Short stories, self contained, funny, something to think about.

Where is it going? We'd love to have another 20ish tri in the Galveston area.

I'm still following along here. Not commenting because I don't have much to contribute, I'm a small boat sailor, but I'm still reading. I suppose I can switch to facebook if this thread ends. I honestly hate facebook. Anyway, I appreciate the updates.

It's fine. I'm sure it is 304. The boat is dry-sailed and washed off after every sail, and the ball is ridiculously over-spec for the application, corrosion on a 304 part is the least of my worries to be honest. The ball and cup with cutout has worked flawlessly in raising and lowering the mast...

The one in my post way upthread is this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009TAOFI

For any kind of weight shift steering moving forward on the boat -> CLR is further forward compared to CE -> boat heads up Move back -> CLR moves behind CE -> boat falls off. There was an article in Wooden Boat about these years ago. From what I recall there's some ability in the...

The person I know who knows the most about this stuff is very optimistic about printing metals, but a bit less so about composites in demanding performance applications like sailboats. Composite printing can do a lot, but it can't match even home hobbyist vacuum bagging for strength to weight...

Yeah, that looks like it. Interesting idea.