happened to me surfing Ocean beach (SF). anybody who has surfed there will understand - but if you haven't surfed there, maybe not. ;)
for some reason I thought it was hilarious - just hanging there suspended in the froth. not rising. about as close to drowning as I've ever come. before or...
it's nice to be near the beach and all - but perhaps its worth noting that the shoreline is in a period of rapid advance.
two ways to look at it. not often geologic time overlaps with human time. so, we're either lucky to witness the changes. or not.